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Does anyone know where, if they are still available, you can purchase j-pegs? I am wanting to get some hiway pegs, and just want to compare them to the elf pegs, and the burton briggs brackets. If there are any others out there, feel free to post another brand. I am going to get a set, just not sure which one to get. Anyone that has ridden with any of them, if you want to add your comments as to likes and dislikes, feel free. Thanks Phil

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Actually I thought "j-pegs" and "Elf Pegs" were one in the same. But what do I know?


Hi Phil wave.gif Guess it's farkles weather in KC huh?

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Thanks Paul, maybe that's why I had a hard time locating them. Hi Ken and Donna wave.gif, I think farkle season ended on Sat. In fact, I am on my way out on a ride now, the wife is just about sick of me complaning about the snow and ice out there. She is ready for me to go out for a ride. Winter makes me a little grumpy aparently. Thanks again, Phil

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I wanted to get a set of the long J-pegs for my RT a year or so back. i tried to purchase them from a supplier but they were backordered and then I was emailed that they stopped making the long ones so I emailed the guy who makes them directly but he did not respond. I tried finding a used pair in the classifieds but I finally bought a pair of talon eagles and am happy with them. I have long legs and the Elf pegs did not allow me to stretch as much as I would like. The Talon pegs attach to the valve cover bolts and I have not had any problems with that issue. They go on and off easy enough for bike maintenace. I had them on my 1999 1100Rt and have another set on the 1150RT. thumbsup.gif



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Here's an alternative.


When I bought my RT, I sold a cruiser. I had some farkles left over from that machine and decided to use them. I combined an existing set of Kuryakin Long Horn hiway pegs and a new set of Hawk Products brackets, and ended up with a very adjustable hiway peg system.


The key was to reshape the end of the Talon 'Hawk' brackets so the the locking part of the Kuryakin peg mounts could be used . . . You can adjust these pegs through a wide range of positions and the WILL NOT slip.


They fold up to less than the width of the standard cases so the profile of the bike doesn't change. I drilled and tapped a small hex head set screw into the back of the peg unit so that I could set the pegs to a custome angle when they are opened.


Rode these with these on a 3400 miler last year and they were great . . . I don't think you really need pegs much on an RT, but they do provide a nice 'stretch out' now and then.




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I ride a R1100RT and was looking at doing highway pegs also, but I would like to know a couple of things.


Which peg is the best way to go to reduce vibration or is this not a problem?


If I mount a one inch riser with one inch setback for the bars, will the pegs be useable for someone that is 5'10" tall?


I'm looking at a Russell Day Long saddle, will the seat position be more upright to utilize the highway pegs?


Thanks in advance,



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Any pegs aren't really going to improve vibration transmission at all. If anything they may be likely to transmit more to your legs / body.


As you move back (in the seat, with the bars), yes reaching pegs will be more difficult.


A Russell is a great seat, but many of us will say you are attempting to move the wrong direction. Instead of trying to get more back, more upright, feet out (ala cruiser riding position), we would suggest you should work to ride more leaned forward, more feet/toes back, more arms bent down, bars forward. Do a search of this board for MYRP, you will find a wealth of reading. Here's a starting point - MYRP Original Post

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Thanks for the info Ken. I've started to read through the thread, but I will have to wait for the season to start before I determine if I need to do any changes to my bike. I've had the RT for almost a year now, and find it to be a very fun bike, but the saddle has been uncomfortable. If this is is due to body position, then that would be good.

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