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Neutral??????


Whip

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I have a 2007 1200GS Adventure.

 

250 miles on it.

 

I can't seem to find neutral with the motor running.

 

I thought it was just me, but Killer had the same problem when he road it.

 

I know I can take it back to the dealer and get it fixed.

 

Anything I can check before taking it in.

 

Whip

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Could it possibly be that the clutch is dragging slightly, like the clutch hydraulics need a good bleeding? Maybe your 250 mile bike needs a spline lube?

 

Frank

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ShovelStrokeEd

I would speculate that it is the clutch drag thing as well.

If the clutch is dragging even slightly, the transmission components will continue to try to turn and make it far to easy to engage a gear rather than neutral.

 

You should notice this some on start out from neutral a little as well. A distinct "graunch" when engaging first gear with maybe a little lurch thrown in.

 

Other factors could be internal to the transmission, shifter forks, shift drum shimming, bad detent spring/plunger.

 

As Paul pointed out, a loose gearbox to shifter linkage could easily be the problem. Be sure the problem noted/documented on your 600 mile service and, if not fixed, I would bring it back in and accept nothing less than a repair.

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There doesn't seem to be any free play in the adjustor, it does have a lot of adjustment available but I have no idea how to tell when it is correct.

 

I can't see any fluid in the clutch reservoir but being so new it may just be too clean to see, the cap has some sort of clip mechanism it looks like, anything special about that or just use a screwdriver to push in the tabs?

 

edit: OK, that was simple, couple of screwdrivers, plenty of fluid.

 

One more thing, it's hard to get into neutral even with the motor off.

 

I'm going to take it out and ride it until it works right...

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There doesn't seem to be any free play in the adjustor, it does have a lot of adjustment available but I have no idea how to tell when it is correct.

 

I can't see any fluid in the clutch reservoir but being so new it may just be too clean to see, the cap has some sort of clip mechanism it looks like, anything special about that or just use a screwdriver to push in the tabs?

 

edit: OK, that was simple, couple of screwdrivers, plenty of fluid.

 

One more thing, it's hard to get into neutral even with the motor off.

 

I'm going to take it out and ride it until it works right...

 

 

While I'm at work. confused.gif

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ShovelStrokeEd

OK, fluid is up and, I would guess the slave cylinder is working.

 

Linkage adjustment.

1. Disconnect linkage, either at the lever or the pedal.

2. Feel the arm on the transmission for an easy and consistent return to center against light to moderate spring pressure. This is to check that the detent or hairpin spring is working properly. Actually there should be both. The hairpin spring returns the lever to center and the detent is where the neutral switch expands into a depression in the shift drum to set the forks in the neutral position, hold that and display the neutral light.

3. Now adjust the linkage so that, with the lever at mid travel, it will go straight into its designated holes.

4. Be sure nothing is binding at full stroke and you should be done.

 

If this doesn't cure things or one of the items in "2" above cannot be achieved, the problem is internal to the transmission. Let the dealer sort it.

 

BTW, if the neutral switch detent plunger is sticking, this could be the cause of your problem.

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I have a 2007 1200GS Adventure.

 

250 miles on it.

 

I can't seem to find neutral with the motor running.

 

I thought it was just me, but Killer had the same problem when he road it.

 

I know I can take it back to the dealer and get it fixed.

 

Anything I can check before taking it in.

 

Whip

I don't think Bob has a good feel for it. eek.gifdopeslap.gif

 

Let me come test it out and I'll let you know... tongue.giflmao.gif

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I've had 2 R12 bikes and ridden several others as demos. None was particularly difficult to engage first gear on a continual basis. Maybe one times out of 10 I need to do the partial pressure on the shifter while squeezing the clutch.

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In 30 thousand plus miles my RT is has never been anything but easy to get into neutral with the motor running. Wih only 250 on your I would take it to dealer for resolution. Either they fix it or get you another bike. Don't let it go too long, make them address it now! Don't try yourself else they may try and blame you for causing the problem.

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  • 1 month later...

The clutch is not disengaging.

 

When 1bmwfan(Phil) was riding my GSA he noticed that when you pull the clutch in when stopped and rev the motor, the bike moves forward. confused.gif

 

 

The plated are not separating properly.

 

Two much fluid?????

 

 

 

Whip

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Paul Mihalka

Does the clutch lever feel "normal"? Or does it engage-disengage very close to the handlebar? If that is the case, there is some hydraulic actuation problem, probably the slave cylinder. If that is the case, it is leaking clutch fluid that eventually gets onto the clutch disk, ruining it. Being a "07, it is still in warranty.

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Hey Paul

 

The clutch feels normal and works normal.....except finding neutral and when you rev the motor when your waiting at a light and the bike rolls forward. Could be a hazard if you start your bike on the side stand and it goes forward on it's own.

 

Yes, I'm sure it's still covered under warranty.

 

 

I'll get it checked out on Monday.

 

Thanks

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I'll get it checked out on Monday.

 

Thanks

 

Monday's not far away. Just the same remember biking's past when clutch drag was ubiquitous; can you shift into neutral as you roll to a stop ? That's old school way.

 

Wooster

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I'll get it checked out on Monday.

 

Thanks

 

Monday's not far away. Just the same remember biking's past when clutch drag was ubiquitous; can you shift into neutral as you roll to a stop ? That's old school way.

 

Wooster

 

Sometimes.....mostly no.

 

Thanks

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