R1100RT trans input seal question

[Lone_RT_rider]

I am in the process of replacing the input shaft seal on my R1100RT. I pulled the old one out with no issues. When you look at the race or land where the seal lies there doesn't seem to be a should to use as a possitive stop for installation. As a matter of fact, it looks like if you are not really careful, you could push the seal right into the trans. That of course leads me to the question..... at what depth do you install this farkin thing?

 

Any ideas?

 

Shawn

 

P.S. The factory manual doesnt seem to have any conclusive answers to this...

[ShovelStrokeEd]

I don't have any more information for you, Shawn.

 

Some general stuff comes to mind. The inner sealing surface needs to be very square to the shaft and on the polished portion. The outer surface, likewise, should be square. In all likelihood the factory tool, bottoms out on the surface of the transmission cover and has the appropriate offset to seat the seal to a certain depth. You might be able to get your dealer to allow you to fondle the factory tool for a bit and get some idea of the dimension from that.

 

I would also peer into the hole, sans seal, and see if there is any hole in there that may lead up to a breather or vent. If so, you will want to leave that inside and unblocked thereby letting your little scale be your guide.

 

If you can come up with some dimensions for me, such as OD of shaft, ID of seal hole, length of shaft protursion from the face of the case and depth to which you want to drive the seal, I'll make up a drawing for a seal driver that you can have a local machinist make out of delrin. Shouldn't cost more than 20 or 30 bucks to have made, all it takes is a lathe.

 

I'm gonna toss this over to the tech mods forum. I seem to remember some suggestion about a central storage/clearing house for special tools and providing a sharing access for members.

[smiller]

As a matter of fact, it looks like if you are not really careful, you could push the seal right into the trans.

You just about can. Well, not really, as the seal will eventually hit the input shaft front bearing, but as you've correctly noticed there's nothing to stop it from doing so.

 

Just seat it until it is about 1/8" or so beyond the step where the input shaft reaches its full diameter. The exact depth is not super critical but you obviously want it far enough in so that the entire seal is on the full diameter of the shaft.

 

The main thing is to make sure that you seat the seal square in the bore, and don't accidentally go too far or you'll be pulling the cover to push the thing out and start over again. A seal driver as Ed described would sure be handy but careful work with the proper sized socket and a mallet will do the job in a pinch.

[Lone_RT_rider]

Well, I gave it a shot. There was a metric socket that was almost a slip fit in the area of the seal and worked well for this. I pushed it back roughly 3mm back from the start of the shaft seal diameter on the shaft. I took seal depth measurements off the first machined shoulder at 12, 4 and 8 o'clock (roughly 120 degrees) in order to get a feel for squareness in the bore. The measurements were 7.41, 7.38 and 7.40 mm. I think squareness of +/- 15 micron in the bore is pretty good. I would almost think my measurement accuracy (Calipers) would be greater than that. I think it will be fine. Here is the best pic I could take.

 

 

Other images are here

 

Shawn

[smiller]

The measurements were 7.41, 7.38 and 7.40 mm.

That's excellent, or at least better than I could do by hand. From the picture it looks like you're good to go...