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Tupperware Screws 98 R1100RT


jdbott

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The Tupperware on my newly acquired 98 R1100RT has short screws, longer screws and a few longest screws. The previous owner mixed them all up. What is the correct location for each type? (natch, the shorter ones are most plentiful, so longer and longest locations would suffice!)

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The longer screws go in the footplates (3 on either side of the bike) as well as behind the mirrors (1 each side). There should be 8 longer screws in total.

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I have a question? I have a stripped screw in the left upper panel, any hints on getting a screw out? It's stripped in the head not on the threads. I really hate these allen head screws.

 

Mark

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If you only remember one thing about the fairing screws, its just make sure the short ones go into the top of the tank.

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You can go to Home Depot/Lowes/local hardware store and get a drill bit that will back the screw out. First you tap into the screw and then it will back it out.

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The longer screws go in the footrest plates, 3 each side, and on each side of the oil cooler, 1 each side.

The very long screws go behind the mirrors, 1 each side, All the rest are short.

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The easiest way to try is to use a torx type bit which is GENTLY knocked into the socket recess, the apply sensitive turning force to remove it.

You could try another set of Allen keys to remove it (some are better fits than others).

You could try using an imperial sized Allen key, which will be just a tad tighter.

A square bit will also do the job.

So what I am suggesting is that anything that is just a little oversize should do the task.

However you say that you dislike these Allen heads...This concerns me that you may have had similar problems before. So, what is your Allen key set like. Good ones work really well, and if they are rounding off, they are generally in too tight!

All the best,

Andy

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I have a question? I have a stripped screw in the left upper panel, any hints on getting a screw out? It's stripped in the head not on the threads. I really hate these allen head screws.

 

Mark

 

Next time use a non-plated (i. e. black oxided) hex key.

 

I hate those button head screws too. They have a nasty habit of breaking between the hex bottom to the thread. They are not recommended in serious engineering designs.

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Keep in mind that these screws are stainless steel and therefore NOT HARD like a typical allen head black oxide screw. If you over torque just a bit the socket starts to deform. Craftsman has a neat set of screw extractors called X-Out just for this type problem. They look like a left handed center drill bit and come in a set of three sizes. clap.gif

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erich schneider

I would try a lefthand drillbit, but if it doesn't back out right away, slot it very carefully with a cut-off wheel (dremel or muffler) and use a flat head screwdriver. Just don't nick the plastic.

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