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engine quit, diagnostic help also needed


upflying

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I was cruising down the freeway at 70 mph when the engine stumbled once and then quits as if the ignition was turn off. The RID, except for the clock, goes blank. I pull the clutch in and head for the shoulder. As the engine stops, the warning lights glow dimly.

The fuses under the seat look ok. The warning lights glow bright and normal with the kill switch "off". When the kill switch is moved to "run", the warning lights glow dimly. Engine does not crank and fuel pump noise cannot be confirmed due to noise from passing traffic. Side stand up or down makes no difference. Tranmission is in neutral.

Tow truck takes me home. Engine now starts and runs normally in my garage!!! Warning lights glow bright and normal in the run position. Fuel pump sounds normal.

Bike has been ridden about 55 miles since a hall effect sensor failure and change by SF BMW.

Any ideas before I start removing the Tupperware?

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Possibly a grounding issue.

The dim warning lights could be the result of neg and pos getting together.

 

Inspect the wiring as best you can for chafing or melts. (bodywork off)

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Thanks for the replies. I will look at the grounds and battery cables. Now that I had a day to think about it, could the fuel pump possibly be the problem? I mention this only because of the dim warning light indication when the kill switch was moved to run. Am I correct to assume that the fuel pump is an electric motor and if it locked up somehow, would it cause a high amperage draw that pulls voltage down and cause the lights to dim? Can the fuel pump freeze up due to debris that somehow dislodged itself during the tow truck ride from the freeway shoulder to my garage? Are intermittent failures of the fuel pump another possibility. Is the fuel pump protected by a fuse and if so why didn't it blow if the pump locked up? What else is activated when the kill switch is moved to run?

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re: "55 miles since a hall effect sensor failure and change by SF BMW"

 

Now that sounds suspicious. I'd pull the HES and check it, plus what was already suggested, i.e. check the battery terminals and harness. Haven't replaced the HES myself, but am preparing to pull it and check it after my transmission is back together, and from all the pretty pictures I've seen, it'd be possible to misroute the wiring.

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and from all the pretty pictures I've seen, it'd be possible to misroute the wiring.

 

Hows That???

It runs up under the alternator and plugs into the harness, which is keyed for one way only!

eek.giflurker.giflurker.giflurker.gif

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Am I correct to assume that the fuel pump is an electric motor and if it locked up somehow, would it cause a high amperage draw that pulls voltage down and cause the lights to dim?
Not likely. If it was drawing that much amperage you'd be seeing smoke from the wiring.
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