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Tire pluggers, StopNGo vs. DynaPlug


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I changed the front tire today. Before removing the old tire (Metzler 880) I wanted to try my DynaPlug so the repair on the road wouldn't be the first attempt with it. I'm sure the rest of you have already given flat repairs a trial run. Another friend brought over his StopNGo as he had not used it yet either. The person that has the tire changer still had the stock repair kit because he wasn't sure which kit to buy. We dropped the tire on a drywall screw. The screw went right in up to the head. A pair of pliers was used to remove the screw. I went first with the DynaPlug. The hole does not need to be reamed out. The sticky patch cord with a brass tip is placed in the insertion tool. You then work the tool into the tire up to the handle and pull the handle out. The brass tip catches on the inside of the tire and the sticky patch cord stays in the hole. Total repair time, maybe sixty seconds. Effort is minimal. We filled the tire to 50 PSI and checked for leaks with soapy water. (No, the patch was not road tested.) No leaks after ten minutes. Next up, StopNGo. The same screw was the culprit. Again we pulled it out instead of unscrewing it. The mushroom cap was easily placed in the end of the tool but we never could get it to properly invert. After several attempts we tried the plunger out of the tire to see how the plug would come out. No problem, it was properly oriented when it came out. Part of the kit is a round rasp that is used to ream out the hole. You can hear the cords tearing as you rip through the tire. We tried several times to get the large insertion tool into the tire without any success. Phil's hand was becoming sore from all the force he was excerting. There is a pointed end on the rasp which helps it get into the tire. Unfortunately the hollow end of the plug inserter always caught on a part of the steel belt. The end of the tool became fairly buggered up from our attempts. By now the rasp was so worn it would no longer clean out the hole, we had completely dulled it with our effort. We're all three mechanically inclined but none of us could get the plugger tool in, hence no repair. In conclusion we decided Phil should carry a battery drill and some bits to go along with the mushroom plugs. Doug is going to by a Dynaplug. . I’ve read enough positive reports about the StopNGo that I’m sure it will work, but we never could figure it out. By the way, I got 100 miles more out of the 880s than I did out of the last set of Pilot Roads (I’ve gone through three sets of the Roads), back to the Roads.

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OH NO Tony! Now we get to hear the you should never ever plug a tire, just replace it vs. guys who always plug and ride 10K with no problems. Touble maker. lmao.giflurker.gif

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Re: the Dynaplug, I think perhaps its biggest strength (beyond ease of use) is the fact that it doesn't require reaming or making the hole any larger, as that action surely damages the tire much more than the original puncture. I don't know of any external tire repair method other than Dynaplug that doesn't require you to first do more damage to the tire before you can repair it(!)


I've seen some reports of the Dynaplug being too petite to properly seal large punctures (although I've yet to experience that myself), but assuming that a good seal is achieved I think it is the best way to go for an external repair. And if you decide later to pull the tire and patch from the inside then at least the original external repair will not have caused additional damage to the tire.

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I have had less than satisfactory results with Stop and Go. As mentioned before insertion is nearly impossible. Loss of air pressure always followed . I now leave the fancy stuff at home and carry a good rope type repair. The CO2 powerlets is another joke when you are stranded who knows where. I carry an Airman pump instead. thumbsup.gif Leon 05RT

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I recently posted this on my local board:


Today while preparing to go for a cool ride, it was 30°, I found this!


I was pissed, but not too bad. The tire was close to gone anyhow.






Then I figured this would be a good time to demonstrate how to plug a tire. I am replacing this soon anyhow, the tires are on order, but I refuse to not ride just for something like this.



So I whip out my tools. It doesn’t take much, and I carry them all the time. Missing is the razor blade I use later.



I use the small wire cutters to remove the nail, hoping it was just a very short one, but no luck.



You can see the nail is plenty long enough to go all the way through, and in fact when it was pulled out allowed all the air to leak out quickly. Funny, there was no air leak prior to pulling it out.



After pulling the nail, I use the reamer tool to make the hole ready for the plug by enlarging it slightly, and roughing up the sides of the hole.



Here is the reamer all the way in. I had to push pretty hard, and I also twist it back and forth as I push it in and pull it out. I gave it 5 strokes.



Squish the string plug flat and insert it into the tool. I used the cutters to pull it through since it can be stubborn. There are different types of installer tools, and some have an opening that makes installing the string easier.



Then I put glue on the string and tool. This not only halps make a more permanent seal, but lubricates it for easier installation.



I also put a little glue on the hole for the same reasons. Sorry for the fuzzy picture.



I start pushing in the plug. It is pretty hard to get in, as it should be for a good seal.



When you get it in this far you stop. Pull the tool straight out as firmly as you can. No twisting. The tool comes out easier than it goes in.



Here is the plug all the way in. Note, make sure you leave at least half an inch. You do this to ensure you don’t accidentally push the plug all the way through, and so both sides of the plug remain above the tread.



Use a razor blade, or similar tool, to cut the plug level with the tread. Don’t let it be higher than the tread or it could pull itself out when riding.



Here is the trimmed down plug. Note that it doesn’t have to look good, just be trimmed flush as much as possible.


I let the tire sit for 5 minutes with no air in it before I start inflating. This allows the glue to set up some.



I added a Gerbing style plug to my pump to make it easier to use without removing the seat. I also start the motor before using the pump to ensure I don’t run the battery down too much to start it when I am done. I also use my throttle lock to up the RPMs to 2000 to give it a bit more charge. I don’t know if this is necessary, but it can’t hurt. (NOTE: Do not do this on a bike with a fairing around the exhaust!)



I plug the tire pump into the tire and turn it on. Five minutes later the tire is full.


I know it takes a while, but it gives you a chance to clean up the tools anyhow.



Check the tire pressure.



Test the tire for leaks. I used spit, so it looks bubbly, but it isn’t, and you can easily see that there are no leaks.


I also like to wait another 10-15 minutes to let the glue set before riding.


Test your tire pressure often, and watch the plug to ensure it stays.


Lastly, those of you with the factory BMW kit might want to look at the string plugs. In my experience the rubber plugs, BMW and others, don’t hold up to steel belted tires too well. The belts tend to cut the plugs. Also I would suggest a tire pump over the CO2 cartridges. It would take 6 or more cartridges to get 20 psi, and the three might not even get you ten.


I will ride this tire for at least a thousand miles before I have a chance to install new tires, and have complete confidence that the plug will hold! YMMV!


Jim cool.gif


I only rode this one for a few hundred miles since it was done anyhow, but I have ridden one tire in particular for 9000 miles with no issues.


Jim cool.gif

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Jerry Johnston

I had to repair a tire with two holes - one where the nail went in and another where the nail started back out. I used the Stop-N-Go and first try had problems (I did have to ream the hole)I then got the manual out and found I wasn't doing it correctly and reinserted the plug according to the manual. I rode the bike for over 200 miles that day and another 250 mi the next day with no loss of air. I've sense purchased a DynaPlug kit because the patches are smaller and figured it would save reaming the hole larger. I haven't had to try the DynaPlug yet. I used a naked air compressor (minus the case) to blow the tire up and didn't start the bike up until I was ready to go. No problems. And yes I replaced the tire with a new one when I got home.

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Not sure if it proves anything either way but I've used the stop-n-go with good results. Three times on the RT (rear tire each time), two pickup tires, two ATV tires and two lawn tractor tires. Had problems the first time, re-read the instructions and everything has worked great since then. The only time the plugs haven't worked was when a chisel shaped stone (3/8 " square, 3/4 " long with a diamond shaped point) went through an Avon rear. The hole was just too big to get a good seal but I was able to travel about 50 miles at a time before breaking out the pump. It did get me home. The tire had about 7000 miles on it at the time.

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I've carried the StopNgo for several years but have no had to use it yet. When I first got it, I practiced on a steel belted tire and had a hard time because the flat end of the insertion tool got hung up on the steel wire in the belt. Finally after moving it around a lot, an pushing a lot I managed to get the tool in. This has been described previously in this thread--just wanted to confirm I had the same problem with the StopNGo.

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OH NO Tony! Now we get to hear the you should never ever plug a tire, just replace it vs. guys who always plug and ride 10K with no problems. Touble maker. lmao.giflurker.gif

Actually I'm just mildly stirring the pot. I barely elaborated on my tire comparisons (Z6 vs 880 vs Pilot Roads) and did not bring up my choice of driving lights, custom seat, which windscreen is quietest or best looking or best protecting, synthetic/dino, clear or tinted face shield, eastern or western roads, camping or motelling, GS/RT, leather or textile, or, or, or.......... dopeslap.gifdopeslap.gifdopeslap.gif

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I used the stop n go on a screw hole in my rear tire, and it didn't hold longer than 20 minutes. I think maybe I pulled on the plug too hard when I cut the excess off, or maybe it got cut by a steel cord or something...I tried it again, and the same thing happened.

I then bought a Safety Seal kit, which uses rope plugs like a lot of other manufacturers. The difference is that the insertion tool controls how far you insert the rope, so you can't accidentally go too far, and it also provides a way to keep from accidentally pulling the rope back out, and it has a t-shaped handle to give you something to push against. It also comes with a little jar of lubricant that you dip the insertion tool into before sliding it into the hole (...come on guys, keep it clean...). I have used it twice (other than testing it on an old tire). Once on the side of I75 when I helped a sport bike with a flat (relatively large hole in the tire), and once on my own bike (relatively small hole in the tire). The kit comes with a tool that allows you to temporarily expand small holes without reaming it out, and I had to use it to open the hole up slightly. The tool is fluted, and you screw it in, which opens the hole up temporarily so you can quickly use the insertion tool to stick the rope in. The insertion tool is larger than NAPA or WalledMart items, but you won't hurt your palm pushing the ropes in. Anyway, I now carry the Safety Seal stuff on the bike all the time because it really works well. Unfortunately, the full kit is expensive, but you could repair 60 flats with the kit. [end of commercial]

[no connection with safety seal (www.safetyseal.com), yada yada yada]

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I've had two flats in 5 years of riding. The first (while on a trip to Colorado) was repaired with a stop-n-go plug which failed within a couple of hours of moderate riding. The second plug held another hour and a half until Raton, NM. At that point, I was able to get a proper, inside-the-tire patch done by the local Honda dealer. (And I still replaced the tire when I got home. thumbsup.gif )


I now have a "sticky rope" kit from Wal-Mart...bought a T-handle reamer to make the prep a bit easier. I had to use this new kit while on a trip in the Texas Hill Country and the plug held the 300 miles it took for me to get home. I then rode the bike (gingerly...) for another week while waiting for the new tire to come in. No problems and no further loss of air.


FWIW, in both cases, the problem was a relatively large nail going in relatively straight, around mid-tread. crazy.gif



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I too believe SafetySeal makes a good product and have used it successfully for years on SUV and car tires (plug failure I experienced was not with a plug from this kit.) I just wish they made something closer to motorcycle size: a shorter thinner rope and matching tools.

I have had problems with being able to penetrate SUV tire belts with both the Dynaplug and the StopNGo. I have not had the opportunity to try either the DynaPlug or the StopNgo on a motorcycle tire except on a non-road worthy test tire, of which I prefer the StopNGo. I still prefer rope plugs over either.

I carry non-Safety Seal rope plugs and tools on my motorcycle only due to the Safety-Seal plug size being too large for the majority of punctures I have experienced on motorcycle.

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Thanks for the photo tutorial. I wanted to relate a recent experience that I had with this type of repair on one of my cars. It pointed out to me the wisdom of treating these repairs as temporary, at least until you can verify that the tire is reasonably intact.


This occurred with the VW R32 that I sold last fall. I was driving to Wisconsin when I noticed that the rear end felt weird. I was on a back road and pulled off within a couple seconds. As I walked toward the rear of the car, I could hear the hiss of escaping air. The tire was not completely deflated when I stopped, but was flat by the time I got the jack in place.


I tossed on the space-saver spare and picked up a string plug flat fixer kit that evening. The fix apparently worked . . . almost. As it turned out, I lost a few pounds of pressure over the next four or five hours. So, the next day I located a tire shop and took it in to see if it could be professionally repaired. Bottom line: the belts had delaminated, as indicated by internal bulges around the area of the puncture. The damage, apart from the puncture, was undetectable from outside.


I write this only because I've always been skeptical of the horror that some express over the idea of repairing a motorcycle tire. But, as my experience pointed out, even under circumstances where you would think that internal damage would be unlikely, it can occur. I think the string plug repair kits are probably the best way to effect a temporary repair, but I'd caution anyone who does an on-the-road repair to get to a shop as soon as possible to have the tire evaluated; don't assume that plugging the hole has repaired all the damage that your tire may have sustained.

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I have a friend who bought a new tire, within about 500 miles he got a flat. he carried the stop and go kit, repaired it on the road, and then wore the tire out. he got something like 6,000 miles on the tire before he replaced it. the stop and go never leaked in the 5500 miles or so of use.


based on his experience I now carry the stop n go. I have not used it yet, but probably just jinxed myself like Gleno.


anyway, thats the only experience I have of either system and wanted to share.

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