Jump to content
IGNORED

K75


hmeiseles

Recommended Posts

I am in the process of looking to purchase a K75 for my west coast LA commuting. The two candidate bikes which have less than 23k miles are a 1985 and a 1994 is there anything I should looking out for? I am assuming the obvious, that the bikes will start and run, have a clutch and brakes that work, a transmission that shifts and an electrical system that works otherwise I am walking away. I have a k1200rs so I understand the k bike history.

Link to comment

The only real soft spot of any K75 is the spline that connects the drive shaft to the rear drive. It wears a lot and the repair is a new rear drive and drive shaft $$$$$. When you decide to buy one of them, I would suggest for the bike to be taken to a dealer or reputable BMW shop and get the drive inspected/lubed before you pay for it. You pay for the service because it needs it anyways. There is nothing wrong with a '86 ('86 was the first year) but I would pick the newer one. Lots of rubber parts like hoses, plugs, vents get old. Not a lot of money but a pain.

Link to comment

The 1994 model is likely a low seat model. I'm pretty sure all 94 and 95 standard models had the low seat. If you're long legged the early model might be a better fit. The 94 will probably have ABS. I think they all did toward the end of K75 production.

Check those splines like Paul said. Warm it up enough to make sure the cooling fan comes on. You might also check the instrument cluster, make sure the tach and speedo work ok.

We have a 95 K75 with around 55k trouble free miles so far. It only requires regular maintenance and the usual wear items. Tires, brake pads etc. The rear spline gets lubed every other year, which works out to about every 12k miles.

Link to comment

I asked the same question when I came back into the fold. I was told worst case $700 for that.

 

 

The only real soft spot of any K75 is the spline that connects the drive shaft to the rear drive. It wears a lot and the repair is a new rear drive and drive shaft $$$$$. When you decide to buy one of them, I would suggest for the bike to be taken to a dealer or reputable BMW shop and get the drive inspected/lubed before you pay for it. You pay for the service because it needs it anyways. There is nothing wrong with a '86 ('86 was the first year) but I would pick the newer one. Lots of rubber parts like hoses, plugs, vents get old. Not a lot of money but a pain.
Link to comment
I asked the same question when I came back into the fold. I was told worst case $700 for that.
A new rear drive is $807, the driveshaft $285, total $1.082, plus labor.

Repairing the rear drive with new parts costs about the same as a complete new one. Installing a new rear drive and drive shaft is a easy home job. Rebuilding a rear drive is not.

Link to comment
Officer_Impersonator

Nice looking bike! My '92 is "Marakesh Red" as well. I've owned it for all of five days now, but it's a beautiful machine. Enjoy yours!

Link to comment

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...