Switched Fuse Block?

[E30TECH]

I wanted to add a fuse block to power all of my electronics (Autocom, XM, GPS), but couldn't figure out how to wire it so it would be switched with the ignition key.

 

Currently the GPS and Autocom are tapped into the fuse box by wrapping the wire around the fused leg of the blade fuse. The wires are squeezed between the cover and the fuse box. Everything is functional and done 'correctly' but its not pretty.

 

I have limited electrical know how, so I am not quite sure how to go about doing this. I'd rather not build an electrified tank bag (at this time anyway). I was thinking more of hard mounting the fuse block somewhere.

 

Has anyone here done this? Would you mind sharing your experience?

 

Thanks,

Perry

[EffBee]

Touratech. Part # 044-0450. It wires directly to the battery and has a solid state relay that triggers power when the key is turned on. It can power up to 5 accessories for a total of 15 amps. On your 1150RT, attach the relay trigger wire to any switched lead (like the taillight lead), preferably at the fuse box.

[Angel]

Has anyone here done this? Would you mind sharing your experience?

 

Yeah, I did it... with a marine quality fusebox from local sporting goods store (blue seas) for $22. and a wire harness with relay switch purchased from easternbeaver.com. $? (lots of info on this site as well)

 

I attached the fusebox with cable ties to the frame under my seat and wired the harness, so that the tial light trips the relay switch, so that the fusebox gets juice.

 

Overall it was a very simple task, then again I spent weeks pouring over posts on this web site familiarizing myself with the language and the different approaches. When it was time to actually do it, I had a clear sense of what needed to be done. The hardest part was neatly routing the wires.

 

IMO, this is a very easy task, even for someone with little to no experience. Just take the time up front to read what others have done and learn what a relay is and how it functions.

good luck

[E30TECH]

That looks like the exact thing I need.

 

How would I " attach the relay trigger wire to any switched lead (like the taillight lead), preferably at the fuse box "?

 

Connect the trigger to the fused side of the tail light fuse?

 

Thanks for the info -

 

Perry

[squints]

try searching for a fuse pigtail on TESSCO.com It's the easiest and best looking (imo)to install. I'll try to post a couple of pics. NAPA stores also have them but I couldn't find them on their site. You can also pick up a 6 or 8 circuit fuse block from them for about half of what others sale them for.

[squints]

Here's another. NAPA part #is BEL784666

[squints]

One of the fuse block. NAPA part # is 782-5316

[EffBee]

That looks like the exact thing I need.

 

How would I " attach the relay trigger wire to any switched lead (like the taillight lead), preferably at the fuse box "?

 

Connect the trigger to the fused side of the tail light fuse?

 

Thanks for the info -

 

Perry

 

Yupper. BTW, please note that I've edited my previous post. I misstated the manufacturer. It isn't Eurotech, but Touratech. The part, complete with relay, costs about $40 - $45.

[jimswms]

I used a CEntech panel and centech relay. Someone with more electrical knowledge than I certainly could have wired up there own relay, but, this makes it really simple.

Bought from MaxBMW

[E30TECH]

Thanks for all the info.

 

Fernando - I did a quick internet search with the P/N and found the manufacturer.

 

ADIFW - I tried to find some info here, but when I did "switched fuse block" in the search box, ALL types of posts came up (and it picked up on HTML code too). So I gave up.

 

squints - If you wouldn't mind posting a pic, I'd appreciate it.

 

I have no doubt that I can do this. I'm sure it is easy. I can do a little more electrical work than I give myself credit for. When I start looking at schematics with all the symbols, I start scratching my head.

 

Are there any places to mount other than under the seat? I have all of my autocom gear/filters/splitter under there and I dont think there is enough room. I'd like to keep it forward of the seat if possible.

 

Thanks again -

 

Perry

[CruisinCruzan]

I used a Painless Wiring CirKit Boss 7 circuit fuse block. It comes with a relay protected main power lead and has 4 ignition switched circuits and 3 constant hot circuits. There are all switched circuits versions as well. The main power lead (has its own circuit breaker)and ground to the battery and switched lead to a parking lamp. Works great and no CanBus worries. I use the constant on circuits for the GPS, a power socket, and a set of lights that are triggered off my high beam. A little bulky but it fits nicely in the tail section. Any of the options mentioned will work well.

[Ken H.]

Are there any places to mount other than under the seat? I have all of my autocom gear/filters/splitter under there and I dont think there is enough room.

Consumed the tool kit tray yet? That's the most common place to find space for "stuff."

[E30TECH]

Painless makes good stuff - but it does seem a lot bigger than the unit Fernando mentioned. I think I like the smaller unit due to the size and features. I'm not sure I'd need any hot circuits without ignition either.

 

Consumed the tool kit tray yet? That's the most common place to find space for "stuff."

The tool kit tray is in the back on the left? I'm assuming this is it since the previous owner kept the tools back there.

 

The only area I have taken up is on the airfilter. The glove box might have some room, but I dont think I want to run power to that (but haven't given it much thought).

 

Can someone that has the Touratech unit give me approximate dimensions? Looks like its about 2.5" X 4" by the pics.

 

Thanks,

Perry

[Global_Rider]

Has anyone here done this? Would you mind sharing your experience?

 

I installed a fuse block but it isn't switched because I wanted it "hot" all the time.

 

All you have to do is install a relay between the positive of the battery and the fuse block. There is a frame tab on the right side of the tray that mounts the battery and ABS unit on my GS Adventure; its probably the same on your model and you may be able to mount the relay there. You can activate the relay off one of the fuses in the fuse box...see 2nd thread below.

 

Here is a detailed thread that may apply to you:

 

R1150 GS Blue Sea 5025 Fuse Block Install

 

And if you plan on installing driving/fog lights:

 

R1150 GS Driving Light Relay & AutoSwitch Install

[Ken H.]

Can someone that has the Touratech unit give me approximate dimensions? Looks like its about 2.5" X 4" by the pics.

I'd have to take my GS apart some to get to mine, it's buried a bit, but that sounds about right. Maybe 2.5" X 3.5"

[E30TECH]

I ordered the Touratech Part # 044-0450 this evening. Its on backorder. Should be in stock within 2-6 weeks

 

Thanks for all the info

[squints]

I can't post a pic but the unit I used is just like the one pictured only with 8 fuses it came from NAPA parts store. I placed it right behind the fuse box on the steel brace, on my 1150rt. It's tight but the rider seat has about 1" of space above. My comes from the battery to the relay, relay taps the brake light to trigger it, then to the fuse block. I think I have around $20 in the whole set up.

[Bart Anderson]

While I was doing my tranny work this summer, with the bike in its "rectal exam" position giving great access to the fuse box, I took the opportunity to add another fuse panel inside the stock fuse box. Found a cheap ($8 I think) panel at Napa, trimmed the excess plasic with a dremel, and epoxied it into the space next to the stock panel.

 

 

Through the hole above the stock panel you can see my wires...I think it's 8 or 10 ga. from the battery, then three 14 ga. runs from the new panel to the front fairing for farkles. I do my switching with relays up front at the other end of the runs. The fourth position in the new panel is for another spare (and potential future growth).

 

One run is for the stock headlight with a pair of relays triggered with the stock headlight wiring; the second is for FF50s, on with high beam via a dash switch and relay; the third is for various other accessories/outlets either unswitched or switched with yet another relay triggered by the city light. Works for me.

[Jim VonBaden]

 

This might help. It is how I did my 12GS.

 

Jim

[E30TECH]

Bart -

 

That was done nice and clean. Thanks for the pics.

 

Squint - I checked NAPA online but could not find anything. I can go there and see. If they have something I can cancel the order with touratech.

 

Jim -

Thanks for the schematic

 

Perry

[Jim VonBaden]

I got my relays from e-bay, they cam in 3 days and are good quality with pigtails.

 

click here. I got 5 of them.

 

You can also get a smaller fuse block from Centech for $10-13 4 and 6 fuse blocks.

 

 

click here to order them

 

Jim

[JonathanE]

I got my relays from e-bay, they cam in 3 days and are good quality with pigtails.

 

click here. I got 5 of them.

 

You can also get a smaller fuse block from Centech for $10-13 4 and 6 fuse blocks.

 

 

click here to order them

 

Jim

 

Now that is the best looking fuse block I've ever seen for a bike. I would have used that on every one of the five bikes I've added fuse blocks to if I'd ever seen it before. I may buy a few just to have in stock for my future bikes!

[E30TECH]

The Touratech fuse block came in today. Looks like a quality item worthy of mounting to the RT.

 

I wont get it until Christmas since I need to give something else to the in-laws to me for Christmas (this way I get stuff I want )