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K bike Recall, this forum


tallman

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seems to be going through another spell where we're all out riding and nobody is posting. thumbsup.gif

Somebody had to as we're down to only 2 threads and the moderators all ride boxers so I could see them pulling the plug. grin.gif

So, for the good of the order, quit riding and start complaining. lmao.gif

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I don't think they'll shut it down. It's a convient place to put the overflow from oilheads. wink.gif

 

Seriously, no problems with mine. Tires, gas, and go!

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NoLongeraK1200RSRider

Other than owner induced rash I have had no problems with mine either. clap.gif (I dropped it taking it down off the center stand in preparation for a ride frown.gif) I LOVE this bike! 50K miles and counting.

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My S does go through tires. Nature of the beast. The Z6's have been doing pretty well. I've got 4k on the present set, and they've got another 2k or so on them. If I can get 6k out of a set of tires on that bike, I'd be happy.

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So, for the good of the order, quit riding and start complaining.

 

They don't make the K1200RS anymore!

(OK, that's a start... grin.gif )

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Hey! no wine here...even the older ones have no problems.

 

See yall at ElPaseo this weekend~~

 

Rid'em K-boy EEEEEE..HHAAAWWWWWWWWWWWWW!

thumbsup.gif

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Well, there have been quite a few oil seal failures on the more technically oriented KRS boards, so I told my bike she belongs to THIS board, where no failures are reported thumbsup.gif.

Seriously, as a heads up, what's causing the engine output shaft oil leaks seems to be an O-ring on the shaft, and not the oil seal itself. I still don't understand exactly how this can happen, but I believe these guys; it's readily apparent when you have things apart.

They still change the main and tranny seals (cheap insurance), but apparently the seals only fail when the slave cylinder fails, as brake fluis eat seals.

 

So there you have it gentlemen; a darn O-ring is the culprit; German engineering at its best, huh? And many folks didn't even bother replacing it while being in thereconfused.gif.

 

So the issue is not IF our bikes are going to develop a leak, but WHEN. That's why we see failures with as little as 10K miles (commuters, probably), with most occurring between 30 and 60K miles. A seal should last 100K without a problem.

 

The good news is this doesn't happen overnight, so keep an eye on your engine periodically. From the time you spot heavy oil crude accumulation around the bottom of the bell housing, to the time your clutch fails due to oil impregnation, it reportedly is at least 2K miles. But if you start seeing drops of oil on your bellypan, you have about 1K miles left at best. I personally wouldn't travel on the bike the moment I notice seepage, but if you notice it on a trip, it's good to know you have good chances of making it back home, and deal with the problem yourself, like most of us would do out of warranty.

 

After fixing my timing leak cover, my engine is dry as a bone at 14.5K miles. Hope it stays that way for a looooong time smile.gifthumbsup.gif.

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Calvin  (no socks)

Doctor Tim, I only complain when I'm not riding.... My GT eats tires... My oil has to be changed every 6000 miles.. what gives.. a small oil weep, and I spent $19,000 fixing it..(bought the Ks!) I'll live with the mechanical stuff... My bike is dirty... I don't wash it enough...

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Everyone has dropped their "K" when taking it off the centerstand. Those who say they haven't, lie!!

 

Just curious, does anything usually break when you drop a K-bike at zero speed?

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Those who say they haven't, lie!!

 

Could it be that those who say that those of us are lying who say we haven't dropped our bikes getting them off the centerstand aren't asking enough K-bike owners? confused.gif

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So far, knock knock, no drop.

Hey Laney, no KRS, but KS should fit the bill.

Any thoughts of heading in that direction?

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Everyone has dropped their "K" when taking it off the centerstand. Those who say they haven't, lie!!

 

Well call me a lier but no I have not (yet) dropped my old school KGT nor my K12S when taking off of the center stand.

FWIW I'm always sitting on any bike I take off the center stand.

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So far, knock knock, no drop.

Hey Laney, no KRS, but KS should fit the bill.

Any thoughts of heading in that direction?

 

Nah, I'd probably just drop it takin' it off the centerstand. grin.gif

 

Seriously, though - I love the smoothness of the new K motors, but they KS and the KGT both feel too heavy to me. And I don't need any extra complexity in my life, so I'd rather not have some canbus to argue with about what I add where.

 

But the new generation FJR has my attention... If they come out with a silver one for 2007 that has a REAL clutch, I may be seriously tempted to give little Seymour a nice Japanese big brother. thumbsup.gif

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Your one gripe this spring was that the bike felt heavy. You were gimpimg at the time, so I let it go, but...

Your pig is heavier than my pig and yet you call my pig fat??? wink.gif

An FJR? OMG, nooooooo!

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FJR is nice. My feet are too big and I can't ride one w/out the centerstand intruding and making my left foot hinge in places it doesn't to shift. dopeslap.gif

The new KGT seems like an RT ergonomically to me.

I've ridden an S w/barback/risers and it's way better.

Best wishes.

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She's ridden an S with barbacks and still thought it was heavy. She hustled it down Mt. Baldy pretty well, but it was down hill. We get to the freeway, and I'm peddling that damn VFR as fast as I can, but no way could I catch her. I've always had that problem with fast women. dopeslap.gif

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On my second k12rs and just don't have any prob with these bikes, I love them. The only problem I can think of is getting enought time out of the office to ride!!!

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Everyone has dropped their "K" when taking it off the centerstand. Those who say they haven't, lie!!

Haven't dropped mine in 4 years (knock on wood)thumbsup.gif, and am not a lier tongue.gif.

 

Talking about the new GT, I was surprised to read on Motorcyclist it's wet weight is 673 lbs (yikes!); that's heavier than the old GT. And the FJR was heavier at 687, and the ST1300 even heavier at 727 lbs.

None of those bikes do anything for me, so hope my trusty KRS gives me trouble-free miles for many years to come.

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Your one gripe this spring was that the bike felt heavy. You were gimpimg at the time, so I let it go, but...

Your pig is heavier than my pig and yet you call my pig fat??? wink.gif

An FJR? OMG, nooooooo!

 

Truth be told (although that won’t happen if we’re talking about dropping bikes!!! wink.gif) I think my pig’s probably the fatter of the two, but my pig has less of an angle when he’s on his side stand, making him a whole lot easier for me to get upright.

 

Once they’re moving, I think your K12S feels lighter - in fact the overall feeling to me about the K12S weight and handling is that it’s more like a supercharged VFR. grin.gif

 

Which is the other problem… For a sissy rides-like-a-girl-type like myself, I’m after more wind protection for the longer rides. In contrast to the K12S and the VFR, the K-RS lets me find a quieter place to settle into when I’m on the bike for an extended time. Which of course, I would never do, being a girl and all, but I can dream...

 

So, with its option for a big windshield, its lighter weight (compared to the new GT, anyway), and a dealership in every other city (although who knows what kind of qualified mechanics might be found – or not – in any dealership!) the FJR has a lot of points in its favor. A weird clutch controlled by something other than me is not one of them though. eek.gif

 

But we’ll see when 2007 is here, or I wear out the K12RS, whichever comes first. I’m a girl after all, and I can certainly change my mind about as fast as I can ride.

 

No wait.

 

That’s not what I meant at all.

 

…is it??? wink.gif

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After riding your VFR, I remember thinking it was similar to the S in alot of ways, just a bit more compact.

You are right about the weather protection. It's been fine this spring and summer, but it's going to be a bit chilly come winter. I will have to wear another layer of clothes.

BTW,you aren't fooling anyone with that "rides like a girl" thing anymore. Anyone who buys into that joke is in trouble grin.gif

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The only issue with the Z6 on the S is getting them warm before getting into the twisties.

I don't ride that hard, but the tire is worn to 1/4" of the side, and no problems with grip. If I was Ricky Racer, or Laney, I think there would be a set of M3's on the beast. The original M1's felt really good, but changing them at 2500 miles wasn't going to work for me.

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Everyone has dropped their "K" when taking it off the centerstand. Those who say they haven't, lie!!

 

No....just putting it on.....twice......within 12 hours of getting it.......had to match sides.

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I have the dreaded oil leak on my LT. It has not spread to the clutch yet.

 

The "O" ring business confuses me. I think the o ring prevents oil migrating along the shaft and contaminating the clutch, however before this can happen oil must leak from the main seal. So my theory is it is the main seal which is the real culprit.

 

I am entirely open minded on this issue if somebody wants to give the definitive answer.

 

Anyway, I've decided to let it leak until it becomes a problem, I'm also keeping the oil level at the bottom end of the range as I suspect this may also be below the bottom edge of the main seal and so will be less likely to leak in large quantities. So far so good.

 

Cabbage

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The O-Ring and rear main seal are not related. The o-ring will casue oil on the clutch disc way before the rear main seal will. The O-Ring seals the clutch housing at the output shaft splines. The rear main seal seals the outer surface of the clutch housing at the engine housing. See here: http://tinyurl.com/7u6ws (item #11 is the O-Ring on the output shaft) and here: http://tinyurl.com/krvqb (item #6 is the rear main seal).

Better now?

 

Mick

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No. Not better. Clear as mud. You'll have to try harder.

 

I assume the main seal sits around the engine output shaft and prevents engine oil from the sump leaking into the bellhousing area. Is the output shaft hollow? Can engine oil travel along the hollow centre to where the o ring sits?

 

If the o ring is the culprit why do I have an oil leak but no clutch slip?

 

Cabbage

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Now I understand. clap.gif

 

Having studied the clymer manual which has lots of clear photographs, here is my explanation.

 

The main seal acts on the rear boss of the rotating clutch housing and prevents oil reaching the rear face of the clutch housing. The seal does not act on the output shaft itself.

 

Oil is free to travel along the internal splines of the clutch housing but is prevented from reaching the clutch side of the housing by the o ring, washer and clutch nut.

 

I think the confusion arises when people talk about the main output shaft seal because in reality the main seal doesn't even touch the shaft.

 

Better now. Thanks Mick thumbsup.gif

 

Cabbage

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Yep, I dropped my first K1200S and scratched up the left side fairing. Then I dropped a deer but she dropped me back and in the process totalled my 05. So yeah, I dropped my bike twice.

 

Cheers!

 

P.S. I have not dropped the new bike (06). smile.gif

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Hi, the comment about droping your bike when coming off the center stand: Aim your front wheel a little to the right, away from you. As the bike comes off the stand it will lean a little towards you and decrease the chance of dropping it. Do this on your lift and you will be glad. (oh yea, never dropped my K off the stand.) beech

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