iPod adapter using BMW Part 65110392142

[Tapatio]

Ever since I bought my R1200RT I've wanted to install an iPod adapter. There are numerous solutions on the market but none of them are specifically designed or marketed for the R1200RT. Essentially you have 2 adapter options; CD changer port or AUX port. The AUX port is intended for high output devices and requires pre-amplification. The CD changer port does not require any amplification and allows full control of the iPod from the normal radio controls. The following are different CD changer adapters that will work with the R1200RT.

- Connects2 kit CTABMIPOD007 for around $250. (Not sold in the USA)

- DICE iPod Integration Kit for BMW i-BMW-T $159.99

- BMW USA Spec iPod adapter PA10BMW $119.95

- BMW iPod adapter 65110392133 $134.95

- or any other iPod adapter that is compatible with a 2003 BMW 3/series car without navigation control

 

After extensive research in these forums and others I decided to use the BMW adapter 65110392133. I like its small form factor and tight integration with the wiring harness. It is also a genuine BMW part which might help with future warranty disputes.

 

So far I am very happy with the adapter. It works flawlessly with the radio controls and turns off automatically with the radio.

 

The hardest part of the installation is removing the BMW round pins that connect to the wiring harness on the back of the radio. The instructions that come with the adapter clearly state that you should use the following BMW tool. Unfortunately it costs $60. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THAT YOU DO NOT ATTEMPT THE INSTALL WITHOUT THIS TOOL

 

You will also need the following tools to remove the side panels, radio box, and battery terminal. If you don't have Corona substitute with your favorite beverage

 

Step 1

Drink some of your favorite beverage. This is going to take about an hour so take your time and relax.

 

Step 2

Remove the side panel. There are 4 screws that hold this on, 2 in the front and 2 in the rear.

 

Step 3

Remove the radio box door. 2 screws hold the hinges in place. They are different than the others so set them aside to avoid confusion when reassembling.

 

Step 4

Remove the tank rail. 2 screws on the top (near stearing stem) and 2 screws on the bottom (under front seat).

 

Step 5

Remove the rest of the right side panel. There are a bunch of screws that hold this on, all very visible and easy to reach.

 

Step 6

Enjoy some more of your favorite beverage. Your bike should look something like this.

 

Step 7

Disconnect the postive terminal from your battery. Remove the radio box. There are 3 screws that hold the box in place. 1 bottom left corner, 1 bottom right corner and 1 top right corner. After you remove the screws lift the box out and remove the top lid. This will expose the radio.

(Picture below showes radio with iPod adapter installed).

 

Step 8

Disconnect the wiring harness from the radio (you have to pry up the housing that secures the harness, pictured below.) Lift the rubber grommet that secures the wiring harness, remove the antenna lead and power connection for fan. Remove radio from box and set aside.

 

Step 9

Drink some more of your favorite beverage because this is the hard part. Using the BMW round pin removal tool push pins 7,9,15 out. Even with the tool it takes quite a bit of muscle. Be careful to keep the tool straight and apply even pressure. The wires are a diffent color than the instructions so make note. Connect the 3 pins from the adapter wiring harness to the radio wiring block. Connect the 10 pin connector on the adapter harness to the radio block. Connect the 3 pins removed from the radio block to the 4-pin connect (positions 2,3,4). All of these instructions are provided with the adapter.

Pins removed

Pins attached to 4-pin connector

4-pin connector attached to adapter wiring harness

 

Step 10

Connect the wires to the adapter and your iPod. Reconnect your battery and test. If everything checks out pop open a fresh beverage an enjoy a couple of your favorite tunes while patting yourself on the back.

 

iPod adapter wire routed above CD changer.

The iPod should appear like this on your display.

[comet]

excellent post. this is the same method that i used. i have access to the special tool so i didn,t incur that expense. Some of the members of my local club were installing an intercom systen on an rt and accidentally installed a round pin in the wrong position. They went to a local hobby store and found some brass tubing the correct size and were able to reverse thier mistake. Thanks for the pictures and explanation. I didnt have the fore sight to take pictures when I installed mine.

[Crazy_Canuck]

Great job and thanks for the pics and info.

[DaveCinNO]

I did mine over the weekend including the ipod and the aux connector for an XM radio and it worked great. Removing the pins is definately the hardest part--get the tool!! I was able to borrow one from a mechanic at the BMW Car dealer as the parts dept didn't have one in stock so plan this part ahead.

 

Thanks to all for the great advice and and to Tapatio for the great instructions--the selection of beverage helped a lot!!

 

Dave

[bubbas45]

I did mine over the weekend including the ipod and the aux connector for an XM radio and it worked great.

 

Howdy, Dave. Could you elaborate on what was involved with the XM radio aux connection? Parts, part numbers, xm radio model?

 

I just got an RT and would like to hook up both the iPod and XM to it.

 

thanks, bws

[DaveCinNO]

The XM radio part was easy, the PN I bought was 82 11 0 149 389 and was $40 as I recall. It just plugs into the bottom of the radio and only goes in one way. It includes a 1/8" female stereo connector and a plate to mount it if you want. I mounted my XM (SkiFi) on the left side in the same place where the radio compartment is on the right. The XM faces to the left so I can't see the front of it, but once it's on a channel I don't change it much anyway. It does come through with a lower volume, but a few notches on the volume control and you're back to a normal level. I may toy with wiring in a small amp if the volume becomes an issue, but that will probably be a technical challenge more than a need.

[DaveCinNO]

I meant to mention that with the XM you'll probably need to power it from the bike - Tourtech and a few others make a relay/fuse panel that is compatible with the canbus system - I used this and had the trigger wire attached to the radio fan power lead so the XM is on whenever the radio is including in the acc key position.

[vfrman]

These part #'s you're using... are they actually from BMW (car) dealerships, or Motorcycle? Are these items usually in stock or do they need to be ordered?

 

Thanks!

[DaveCinNO]

They're BMW car parts - the RT basic radio is the same as a 2003 318i so the instructions that come with the items are actually car instructions...thus the detailed instructions in these posts from those who came before us clearing the trail.

[vfrman]

Right on! Thanks for your help!

[1analguy]

They're BMW car parts - the RT basic radio is the same as a 2003 318i...

 

I guess this explains why there's no weather band on the RT's radio. Kind of a shame.

[Gkgeiger]

There is a weather band. push the AM button twice.

[UA342]

I'll awaken this thread again.

 

I just reread this thread since I'm trying to get the Zumo interfaced with the 12RT radio aux. option. Will the Zumo mate up with this 1/8" connector you're using for XM?

 

I haven't heard of any other way to interface with the stock radio besides an FM transmitter.

 

I'll probably start another thread in a while if this one doesn't wake up the Zumo geniuses.

 

Thanks for any info you have.

[DaveCinNO]

I'm not a Zumo guru but the Aux connection is just a 1/8'' stereo input to the radio so it should work with any stereo signal. The only issue will be volume - my XM on the Aux is a little quiter so when I switch to that I have to up the vol a little - not a problem and plenty of volume to spare.

 

Dave

[UA342]

Thanks.

[UA342]

I just installed the auxiliary plug. I hooked it up to a spare MP3 player to test it out. The volume is too low. I'll need to get something to boost the signal.

 

The BMW adapter snapped right in. Thanks

[DaveCinNO]

I actually bought a UK-154 2x5w amp board from Canakit and was going to figure out what size resister to use to bridge the two rheostats and put it in line with the Aux connector but never got around to doing it. With the rheostats removed this may fit in the radio box. In any case, Canakit has a lot of audio amp boards to choose from. Another option is a simple serial walkman amp, but they all use batteries which gets messy. Let me know how you end up resolving this.

 

Dave

[UA342]

I saw the Canabit amp setup. It does seem like the perfect way to go. That setup would be putting my limited electronic skills to the test.

 

I thought I read that Canabit will build that amp with the resistors in place of the rheostats(?). I might give them a call and see what they can do.

 

In the mean time, I'll do some more research on the Boostaroo Revolution.

[Ankan]

Hi.

I´ve got a 12RT ´05 and I´m about to order the adapter to connect an iPod to my factory cd player and I`m wondering if the iPod battery is being recharged while connected to the stereo ?

[Tapatio]

Yes it will charge your ipod also.

[Ankan]

Tackar så mycket

 

= Thank you very much

[derrick]

Has anyone has any luck finding a tool that works close to the bmw tool part number 611132, I cant see paying 60 bucks for a pin pusher.

[Ankan]

*SNIPP*

 

 

What´s that ?

 

[Mcrider]

Ok now I got a question. Can you get the stock BMW radio without the CD changer? When I was inquiring about the radio at the dealer they indicated that the CD changer was an integral part of the radio, so the radio could not be purchased separately. Any thoughts on this?

 

Thanks

[Rocket_Cowboy]

Ok now I got a question. Can you get the stock BMW radio without the CD changer? When I was inquiring about the radio at the dealer they indicated that the CD changer was an integral part of the radio, so the radio could not be purchased separately. Any thoughts on this?

 

That's my understanding ... that a significant portion of the electronics are actually housed in the CD player unit.

[Tapatio]

What´s that ?

 

 

That is the pin you will have to replace if you try and remove it with the wrong tool. I tried it with a pair of needle nose pliers and ruined one of them. If you don't want to spend the money on the pin removal tool you can:

1) Remove them with brute force and replace the pins

2) Cut the wires about an inch back from the block and splice into them.

[RedMac]

Something to note - I just went through an install on this. I ordered the 65110392133 part from Bavauto.com. I received the 133 as ordered, which had 4 pins to substitute into the wiring harness instead of the 3 pins that Tapatio (Ron) showed. Ron and I have been emailing back and forth about this. It turns out that Ron actually received the 65110409342 which supercedes the 65110392133 part. The 342 part only has the 3 pins.

 

I installed the 65110392133 using the instructions provided and it did NOT work. I called Bavauto and they sent me a new one, but this time they sent the 342 (newer) part. I installed this last night and this worked perfectly... So I can only assume that the 133 part was either

A. Bad (unlikely)

B. Incompatible with our bikes (more likely).

 

If you order one of these, be sure and specify the newer 342 part. Bavauto.com does not show the 342 part on their web site, they apparently treat them as equal (i.e. you may get either one when you order). Just a heads up for anyone planning on doing this.

 

Also, you can fairly easily make the pin removal tool using some 3/16" thin wall brass tubing available at your local Ace hardware. The tubing is just a smidge too big to fit into the connector hole but if you take a dremel tool and carefully grind off about 30% of the tubing it works perfectly. I then used a polishing wheel to polish up the end the the tube I had ground down. I'd offer mine up to someone else to use, but my wife now wants one of these installed in her car (330CI convertible), so I'll need it for that. It only took me about 15 minutes of careful work to make the tool though.

 

After much headache (I must have checked my wiring 10 times after installing the 133 part that did not work), I do have to say I absolutely LOVE this. Complete bike sound integration.. the only way to fly.

 

Thanks to Ron for posting the original thread and for all his help with my original problem.

 

Mike

[Swag]

You keep referring to the iPOD adapter...does that mean it's just for a iPOD, or will it work with any mp3 player?

 

Thanks

[Rocket_Cowboy]

You keep referring to the iPOD adapter...does that mean it's just for a iPOD, or will it work with any mp3 player?

 

It is specific to the iPod.

[Swag]

You keep referring to the iPOD adapter...does that mean it's just for a iPOD, or will it work with any mp3 player?

 

It is specific to the iPod.

 

 

I guess I will have to get an iPod.

 

Thanks

[RedMac]

For any other MP3 player you can get an AUX input cable, but you can't control it from the radio. I've heard the aux input doesn't quite give you enough volume though, so YMMV

 

Mike

[AJL_Electronics]

For any other MP3 player you can get an AUX input cable, but you can't control it from the radio. I've heard the aux input doesn't quite give you enough volume though, so YMMV

 

Mike

 

I am trying to achieve this. I currently have a BMW (Becker) Cassette head and bought the Professional 2000 CD head with the aux cable above mentioned. When the CD head was installed, there was no response from any button on the control units except for the on-off. IS this a compatibility issue or a fault? The Clymer manual shows no difference in wiring between the 2. The 2001 bikes were fitted with the CD head as standard I believe.

[Nitrox]

Also, you can fairly easily make the pin removal tool using some 3/16" thin wall brass tubing available at your local Ace hardware. The tubing is just a smidge too big to fit into the connector hole but if you take a dremel tool and carefully grind off about 30% of the tubing it works perfectly. I then used a polishing wheel to polish up the end the the tube I had ground down. I'd offer mine up to someone else to use, but my wife now wants one of these installed in her car (330CI convertible), so I'll need it for that. It only took me about 15 minutes of careful work to make the tool though.

 

Mike

 

Hey Mike... Man am I stuck. The bike has been torn apart now since Saturday afternoon. I have tried fabricating this tool, and either I am missing something, or not using enough brute force.

 

First off, I can't find any "brass" tubing in this small town, so maybe that is where I go wrong. I did find some copper tubing, and was successful in making it A) fit around the connector (testing it on the new part) and B) fitting inside of the plastic housing. It goes in, I can't get the wire out! I fear I have nearly stripped the existing wires trying to pull it out.

 

I have googled this project a lot. It has become personal. I broke down to buy the tool, but it is 10 days back-ordered. I did find one site that said the plastic outer slider has to be off in order to release the wires too? This makes no sense when looking at it. Regardless... Any additional tips? I am about ready to just slice the wires.

 

Thanks,

 

-Jason.

[krf]

Hello Mike,

 

Many thanks for your post! I am trying to install one of these on my R12RT as well.

 

My problem is that when I spoke with Bavarian auto, they told me that the part ending in 342 has been superceded by the part ending in 133 which is opposite from what you said in your post.

 

He says there are 3 wires, but a 4th empty pin????

 

Could it be that the old stock 342 that actually works has been depleted?

 

Many thanks!

 

Keith

[Nitrox]

Make no mistake about it, the 133 is the old part (I have a PDF of the Manual) and it has 4 wires. The 342 is what you want.

[RedMac]

Also, you can fairly easily make the pin removal tool using some 3/16" thin wall brass tubing available at your local Ace hardware. The tubing is just a smidge too big to fit into the connector hole but if you take a dremel tool and carefully grind off about 30% of the tubing it works perfectly. I then used a polishing wheel to polish up the end the the tube I had ground down. I'd offer mine up to someone else to use, but my wife now wants one of these installed in her car (330CI convertible), so I'll need it for that. It only took me about 15 minutes of careful work to make the tool though.

 

Mike

 

Hey Mike... Man am I stuck. The bike has been torn apart now since Saturday afternoon. I have tried fabricating this tool, and either I am missing something, or not using enough brute force.

 

First off, I can't find any "brass" tubing in this small town, so maybe that is where I go wrong. I did find some copper tubing, and was successful in making it A) fit around the connector (testing it on the new part) and B) fitting inside of the plastic housing. It goes in, I can't get the wire out! I fear I have nearly stripped the existing wires trying to pull it out.

 

I have googled this project a lot. It has become personal. I broke down to buy the tool, but it is 10 days back-ordered. I did find one site that said the plastic outer slider has to be off in order to release the wires too? This makes no sense when looking at it. Regardless... Any additional tips? I am about ready to just slice the wires.

 

Thanks,

 

-Jason.

 

Jason,

My bet is that you are NOT taking the back plate off the connector. If you look in the instructions it kinda half heartedly mentions this. If the backing plate is not removed, you will NOT able to remove the pins without damaging the connector. Once you get the tubing over the pin releases the pin comes out quite easily (providing the backing plate is removed ). if you look closely at the connector, you will see there are two release clips on either side of the connection that need to be popped free with a small spudge or small standard screwdriver (think like a jewelers screwdriver).

 

Sounds like what you make already works. As long as it goes in far enough in the connector to release the locks it should be fine. You can test it on the pins you have that aren't in the connector yet.

 

you do NOT need brute force. Once the locks are released, the pins come out quite easily (again, providing the backing plate is off! )

 

Mike

[RedMac]

Hello Mike,

 

Many thanks for your post! I am trying to install one of these on my R12RT as well.

 

My problem is that when I spoke with Bavarian auto, they told me that the part ending in 342 has been superceded by the part ending in 133 which is opposite from what you said in your post.

 

He says there are 3 wires, but a 4th empty pin????

 

Could it be that the old stock 342 that actually works has been depleted?

 

Many thanks!

 

 

Keith

 

I was told by the BMW dealership (car) and by another user on this board that the 342 supercedes the 133. That's all I can tell you. Bavauto apparently stocks them both under the 133 number. When the original 133 didn't work and they sent me a new one, I got the 342 instead, even though the order called out the 133. When I called back to return the 133 part and tried to explain it to them, they insisted they sent me the same part both times... You WANT the 342 part.

[RedMac]

Hello Mike,

 

Many thanks for your post! I am trying to install one of these on my R12RT as well.

 

My problem is that when I spoke with Bavarian auto, they told me that the part ending in 342 has been superceded by the part ending in 133 which is opposite from what you said in your post.

 

He says there are 3 wires, but a 4th empty pin????

 

Could it be that the old stock 342 that actually works has been depleted?

 

Many thanks!

 

Keith

 

Keith,

When I did this, I checked my wiring 10 times when it didn't work and even posted a note here asking if anyone had successfully used the 4 pin 133 part. I got 0 responses. Plus I used the same wiring setup for the 342 part (same pins) except for the one pin that isn't used for the 342. I also tried using only 3 of the 4 wires like the 342 setup with the 133, no dice. The 342 part worked right away when I installed it.

 

It's certainly possible that the 133 part I had was actually bad, I have no way to confirm this. I was hoping to confirm, but BAVAuto sent me the 342 part the second time. Based on all this, I can only suggest that if you try to use the 133 part, make sure you can return it if it does not work.

[krf]

Many thanks for all the great advice....I think that I will give up on Bavarian Auto for now and try elsewhere.....unfortunately, Drew at BA was nice enough to go and pull his stock and tell me the 133 was all he had, but he did say it has 3 wires with the fourth being a blank pin (not sure if this is the right connector or not????). Anyway, he insisted the 342 was an old number and that I would actually get a 133 (but with 3 wires???)....this confused me all over again!

 

Thanks again!

 

Keith

[Rocket_Cowboy]

How does the new cable have three wires and a blank pin? Since the loose wires have to connect into the radio harness, what's holding/connected to that blank pin? That just doesn't make sense to me ... it's either 3 pins or 4 pins, not 3 and 1 unused.

[krf]

Not sure....I think this was Drew telling me what was in the actual kit....I guess I'll just have to have someone send me the 342 kit and give it a go!

 

Many thanks!

 

Keith

[krf]

Does anybody know a source that actually has one of these adapters.....everyone seems to be backordered forever!

 

Thanks!

Keith

[Rocket_Cowboy]

Just to add to the confusion ...

 

Stopped by my local BMW shop today to try and order this adapter.

 

To make things interesting, both 65110392142 and 65110392133 are showing as superseded with no quantity in stock in North America. The suggested replacement ... 65110035963 with an MSRP of $185. The description for the part is "ipod if g3 kit".

 

Anyone tried this part number yet? I'm hesitant to order it without knowing whether it would work with the RT's radio in advance ... given the cost.

[krf]

I would like to know this as well....mine has been backordered for months (the older number that is)....

 

Thanks!

 

Keith

[Rocket_Cowboy]

There are 90-something of the new part number I referenced available in North America ... I'm just hoping it works.

[Samzilla]

Has anyone has any luck finding a tool that works close to the bmw tool part number 611132, I cant see paying 60 bucks for a pin pusher.

 

I ordered the BMW Extraction Tool but couldn't wait any longer for it to come in (2 to 3 weeks) so I found out that the BMW Motorcycle techs use the "Blue Point GA 500A" from Snap-On Tools (see picture attached). You can buy the tool on Snap-On's website for $17.20 or call your local Snap-On dealer and meet the truck at one of his local stops. The pertinent information from Snap-On's website is as follows:

 

Tool, Wire Terminal

Stock#: GA500A

 

$17.20

 

Description:

Removes flat and round wires from terminal blocks without damage. Six stations fit most sizes.

 

 

Product Specifications

Stock # GA500A

Name Tool, Wire Terminal

Price** $17.20

Brand Blue Point

 

The largest diameter sleeve is the exact same size as the BMW tool and worked flawlessly. In addition to being $30+ dollars cheaper, it also has 5 other tools on it that can be used for other applications.

 

By the way, my BMW Extraction Tool came in today's mail. Unfortunately, I completed hooking up my IPod to the radio 2 weeks ago. Oh well...

 

Ken

[Rocket_Cowboy]

...I completed hooking up my IPod to the radio 2 weeks ago. Oh well...

 

I don't suppose you were lucky enough to get one of those new part numbers to work, were you? Or did you manage to get one of the older superseded parts?

[bubbas45]

Howdy, folks. I just got the xxx342 3-pin adapter. This is the gen2 iPod interface. It came with no instructions.

 

Tapatio wrote:"Using the BMW round pin removal tool push pins 7,9,15 out. Even with the tool it takes quite a bit of muscle. Be careful to keep the tool straight and apply even pressure. The wires are a diffent color than the instructions so make note. Connect the 3 pins from the adapter wiring harness to the radio wiring block. Connect the 10 pin connector on the adapter harness to the radio block. Connect the 3 pins removed from the radio block to the 4-pin connect (positions 2,3,4). All of these instructions are provided with the adapter."

 

 

Can anyone tell me for sure how to map the wires from the radio to the 4-position connector? Is it 7:2, 9:3, 15:4?

 

I would love it if someone could scan and attach the instructions to this thread, or email them to me. Or take some close-up pics of the instructions so I can read them, mainly the page Tapatio shows in the thread.

 

thanks, bws

[Tapatio]

Brian, PM me if you need other pages from the instruction manual.

 

[JMR]

Just got through installing an AUX cable on my '05 12RT radio. ('05's have the earlier version radios with the AUX function but no AUX jack or hook-up. Later models have a jack on the radio face, as I understand it anyway.) Just now getting this done on an '05 because I picked up the bike this summer used. I spent the first $$ getting the connection cable to run the bike stereo thru the Autocom, but that's another story...

I'd found this thread some time back and was planning to give what I read here a try. Then, while bike was in for service, I checked w/ my local BMW dealer about what was available to use the AUX function on the radio, they looked it up, and ordered me part # 61-12-7-709-157. It came in the mail with zero instructions. I searched all forums for something with this part # and came up nothing. I Googled the part # and had only two hits and both of them had to be translated from German, which means it was fairly broken English after translation. Nothing about installation tips, but from what I could tell, it seems this part is new as of sometime in 2007? Maybe that's why I can't seem to find out anything about it? Maybe that's why the parts and service guys at my local BMW dealer didn't know anything about the part and mentioned that mine was the first they'd ever ordered?

Anywho...it's rather plug and play, that's pretty much it...it just plugged right in. Only one way for it to fit too, so no guessing where it was to go. Volume is not as much with my cheapo MP3 running on it as the other radio functions, but turn the MP3 and the radio both up and it's plenty loud enough for me. (May try a Boosteroo amp, but don't really have to.)

Thought I'd pass this info along. Cost was $88.25, but no special tools to buy, no plugs or connections to change, didn't even get to finish my first Corona before I was through. Sorry I didn't think to take any pictures, next time I got the bike open I'll take some if anybody wants.

Boringly and pleasantly easy.