Jump to content

need techlusion help on 1150rt


vtr1000

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

I'm new to this forum and to BMW motorcyles so please excuse anything I overlook. Just some backround info, I bought a 02 1150rt this summer with 20k on it and it ran OK but it had a moderate surge and slow throttle response. When I got it home I changed plugs, oil, air filter, synced the carbs with carb sticks and adjusted the valves. The intakes were very loose .011-.012 and exhaust were pretty close to spec. The bike ran a little better after that for a while then I installed a techlusion 1031 TFI unit to get rid of the surge.I installed the unit myself with no problems. I am an auto mechanic so I know my way around a wrench. My problem starts with trying to tune it. Whenever I turn the green pot anywhere past the 1 o'clock position the idle gets very rough and the farther I turn it the worse the idle gets, if I turn it past 3 o'clock it will barely stay running. I tried re-syncing the TB's again with the 1031 off and it made no difference. I found a happy middle ground about 1:30 o'clock were the surging is almost gone and it will idle just OK. It also has a slight stumble below 2500 rpm. My other settings are as follows, green pot 1:30 o'clock, yellow pot 3 o'clock,red pot 5 o'clock,and rpm pot 9 o'clock. The other settings have no effect on the idle qaulity. The bike runs great on the highway except for the slight surge. I called techlusion and they suggested turning the idle screws out half a turn each until the idle improved (it never did) and if that didn't work then adjust the TPS positon. I have not done this because I have heard how sensitive it is and I have my doubts wether it will fix it. If I turn the green pot off the idle returns to normal. My question is am I missing something about the install and tuning or does the techlusion unit normaly affect the idle this way.Or is there something else wrong with the bike that would cause the techlusion to have this effect? I would like to get rid of the surge completley but the bike is unrideable with the idle so rough that almost stalls. Also, what settings is everyone else using on their 1031's? Thanks in advance for all your help.

Link to comment

VTR1000, first off, on the Teclusion 1031 you MUST disconnect the 02 sensor to have it work correctly.. Otherwise it will try to pull the fuel you added back out when in closed loop (like at hot idle).. If you want to keep the 02 in the system call them & trade them for the 1032 0r 1033 unit..

 

Also on that TPS... If it isn't dropping back to between about .340v & .400 volts at idle the Motronic won't recognize it is at idle.. I just went thought this on my 02 RT a while ago & found that .360v was desired but mine seems to operate better at low speeds with the TPS re-set to .375v..

 

To check the TPS voltage, hook your digital voltmeter up to the first & last (farthest front & farthest rear) wires running into the TPS.. Leave the factory harness hooked up (I made some short jumper wires to allow the factory harness to remain hooked up but allow voltmeter hook up to the jumpers).. Some people just pierce the rubber wire seals & push the voltmeter probes up into the harness connector.. Once the voltmeter is hooked up just turn the ign switch on (engine not running) & measure the voltage at closed throttle (make sure the choke isn't on or it will skew the readings).. If the TPS voltage isn't between .350V & .390V you should re-set it.. I don't know how important it is but I always do it on a hot engine as that means everything is hot & expanded.. Once done, pull the #5 fuse (5th from left) in the fuse box for about 5 minutes then re-install the fuse, turn the ign switch on (do not start) then fully open & close the throttle (hit the stops in both directions) to re-set the throttle memory in the Motronic..

 

 

 

Twisty

Link to comment

Twisty,

Thanks for the great info, I do have the o2 sensor disconnected but I will definetly check the tps voltage and let you know how it went.THANKS!

Link to comment
Al Navecky Jr

Sorry to hijack your thread but do you still have your SuperHawk? I am selling mine to make room for a /5 (only so much room in the garage).

Link to comment

Hey Twisty,

I reset the tps voltage,it was about .330 volts,and it didn't seem to make a difference. The idle is still pretty rough.Does anyone know if I should try the zero=zero procedure on my 02 or is it that only for the 1100's?

Link to comment

VTR1000, using the 0=0 on the 1150 won't do much as the Motronic needs to see in the .340-.400 volt range to know it is at idle control.. It also has limited learning ability so once it learns idle & WOT it looks for those readings & also does a quick checksum on some start up conditions (I'm not sure at this time if it does that hot cold or both as I'm still researching that arena myself)..

 

You might try pulling the brass idle by-pass screws & cleaning those, then using carb cleaner to clean their seats in the throttle bodies (mine were really carboned up at only 13,000 miles)..

 

It might not hurt to run a hot compression test also..

 

If you have good compression & good spark then your are left with a vacuum leak, a fueling problem or injector problem, or control of the injector pulse width..

 

I presume you have already checked the TBI clamps & intake tubes for being tight with no air leaks? Maybe run an unlit propane torch around the intake area to see if that changes the idle quality..

 

Twisty

Link to comment
Hey Twisty,

I reset the tps voltage,it was about .330 volts,and it didn't seem to make a difference. The idle is still pretty rough.Does anyone know if I should try the zero=zero procedure on my 02 or is it that only for the 1100's?

 

Did you pull the #5 fuse for 5 minutes then do the throttle wide open then shut with ign switch on after the re-set? If not, you really still need to do that to see a change..

 

 

Twisty

Link to comment

Here are the current settings on my 99 R1100RT. I'm guessing correct settings for a R1150RT will be different so these may be of no help at all. Anyway...

Green pot 4:00 o'clock

yellow 4:30

red 1:00

rpm 10:00

 

The 02 sensor is unplugged. Been using the TFI for about 42k miles. Very happy with the results.

Hope you get yours ironed out. Is it a new unit? Everyone makes a dud now and then.

Link to comment

And with a 1033 is the O2 is out of the loop, going to be very hard to make run correctly, R259 is what you should use.

 

DaveyMac, he has the 1031 Teclusion.. Those do require the 02 to be disconnected as they don't have the built in 02 control.. The 1032 & 1033 are designed to use the OEM 02 but will work without the 02,, you just won't have a RPM setting for high speed fuel..

 

Twisty

Link to comment

Hey twisty,

Thanks for all your help,I did pull the fuse and waited and moved throttle stop to stop. I will try the propane trick and pull the idle screws.The idle seems to change everytime I stop the bike, sometimes its smooth somtimes its rough it doesnt change while im stopped though.

Link to comment

I have an '03 RT had bad luck with the FI-1032 unit. I eliminated a bad surging problem by switching to Autolite plugs and doing the CAT code modification recommended over on the Advrider site. This cost a total of about $7.00! clap.gif

Link to comment
CAT code modification recommended over on the Advrider site. This cost a total of about $7.00!

 

I've tried searching the Advrider, but couln't find the recommendations. Please provide a link grin.gif

Link to comment

I didn't have the correct sized spades, so I just removed one of the spades off of the CAT plug that is not needed. Anyone see any issues with my approach? Its raining here now and hence I haven't ridden the bike yet, but in the garage it seems to run OK, i.e, doesn't seem to hunt for a steady idle.

Link to comment

re. jumpers instead of a CAT, after reading that description by Rob Lentini

http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/R11inj-surging-fixes.shtml

I tried it today. I made a simple jumper by crimping a couple of lugs onto a three-inch length of wire. Easy to make.

 

I tried four setups:

no CAT, no jumper

no CAT, jumper between 30-87 in the CAT socket

no CAT, jumper between 30-87a in the CAT socket

CAT (pink, with three pins 30-87-87a)

 

Results:

I experienced surging in all four setups, but the first was a little better: no CAT, no jumper. The others weren't much worse. There was no major difference in surge, from one setup to another. Idle speed varied by about 100 rpm from one setup to another.

 

I had trouble starting the engine for only one setup: no CAT & jumper wire between 30-87a. For this setup the engine stalled and backfired once, when starting, and thereafter ran fine.

 

I did my test ride where I get the most surge: 3.5k RPM in 1st gear. I did this on level ground and both uphill and downhill slopes, with a steady throttle. After each time I changed the jumper or CAT, I pulled the 5th fuse to reset the Motronic, and then with the key on I turned the throttle over its full range. The entire test took maybe 20 minutes, including the time it took to make the jumper wire. My most recent throttle sync was 2k miles back.

 

chrisz:

to answer your question, using the lugs from an old CAT sounds fine to me, but running the engine at idle isn't a good test for surge.

Link to comment

No heat, how did you get the cat. on & off, then back on again for all those tests in just 20 minutes.. It takes me close to that just to change the catalytic converter once let alone pull it off & put it back on.. Are you by chance referring to the CCP as the cat?

When Lentini was refering to the "cat" that was the catalytic converter he was refering to..

He also did his tests on the 1100.. The 1150 uses a different Motronic (2.4 vs 2.2) with different set of internal fuel maps so the jumpreing results will be different between the 1150 & the 1100..

 

Twisty

Link to comment

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...