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Whiring from ABS control unit, how to stop?


DAYnKC

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I have a r1100rt that from time to time the ABS control unit (module in front of battery)gets a whiring noise. This noise continues even with the engine turn off and in the past the only way I was able to get it shut off is to remove the negative lead on the battery. If I waited 30 seconds or so, I could re-attached the lead and the noise was gone...until today!! confused.gif

 

I have tried to toggle the various electrical switches, reset the ABS (via switch and using the plug method) and charged the battery. The ABS lights work correctly and when driven, will go out as they should. However the whiring can be heard while driving and continues on even after the engine is shut-off.

 

I am planning a short excursion later this week and hope I can get this resolved before heading out. smile.gif

 

Any tips or advice would be appreciated,

Thanks,

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The ABS pump's power relay is sticking on. Located in the fuse box. Straight forward plug and play replacement.

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I think it's not the relay in the fuse box, it's the relay in the abs modulator itself. the relay in the fuse box switches the warning light on the dash, the one in the modulator is a big ass relay that switches power to the abs motor pump.

 

the modulator is in front of the battery, you'll have to lift te tank to get acces to it.

on the right, there is a plastic cover, remove that and you see the relay.

 

bmw's repair manual states that you must disconnect the battery before removing the relay.

they also say you should use an new cover. i'm not sure why, or if the old one will fall apart if you remove it.

 

HTH, Daniël

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I think it's not the relay in the fuse box, it's the relay in the abs modulator itself. the relay in the fuse box switches the warning light on the dash, the one in the modulator is a big ass relay that switches power to the abs motor pump.

 

the modulator is in front of the battery, you'll have to lift te tank to get acces to it.

on the right, there is a plastic cover, remove that and you see the relay.

 

bmw's repair manual states that you must disconnect the battery before removing the relay.

they also say you should use an new cover. i'm not sure why, or if the old one will fall apart if you remove it.

 

HTH, Daniël

 

Daniel is correct!

You 'might' be able to tap on the ABS modulator unit and free the relay. Takes some creativity to access it even with the right side body work off.

The relay is easy to replace but when you do, just replace the relay and NOT the socket. MUCH easier. smile.gif

 

Mick

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ShovelStrokeEd

Daniel is correct!

 

Now there is a statement I thought I would never hear. (You folks who have been around awhile know what I mean grin.gif)

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Daniel is correct!

 

Now there is a statement I thought I would never hear. (You folks who have been around awhile know what I mean grin.gif)

 

Hmmmmm,

Are you saying I wasn't verbose enough? smile.gifsmile.gifsmile.gif

 

OK,

For the original posters benefit, I've fixed three of these ABS Hydro pump relays. In every case the original relay had had ONE of the two relay contacts 'welded'. The relay in question is a dual contact relay to handle the high current that the Hydro pump motor draws. It seem not all of the relays are built properly and only one of the contact points is actually making contact. That much current through one contact is enough to 'weld' the contact shut. I've seen it on two R1100's on one K1100 with ABS-II.

You 'can' clean up the contacts and form the relay straps so that both contacts make at the same time but I would recommend replacement of the relay if you are not familiar with aligning relay contacts.

P/N 61 36 2 306 526 $76 from https://chicagobmwmotorcycle.com/2frames/2frame.html

The reason a new cover is included is because early versions did not have the small piece of foam rubber attached to the inside of the cover. This piece of foam prevents the relay from bouncing around and causing ABS faults. See SI Bulletin # 2615®.

 

Mick

wave.gif

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Hmmmmm,

Are you saying I wasn't verbose enough?

 

No I believe that Ed was referring to the fact that Ken is rarely wrong wink.gifgrin.gifthumbsup.gif

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skinny_tom (aka boney)
Hmmmmm,

Are you saying I wasn't verbose enough?

 

No I believe that Ed was referring to the fact that Ken is rarely wrong wink.gifgrin.gifthumbsup.gif

 

There was this troll that used to hang out around here named Daniel... He was eventually booted, but provided for some very interesting threads while he was around. eek.gif

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was wondering about that statement..

 

really, fellers, no relation smile.gif

 

We could tell.....your post was well worded and correct. smile.gif

 

Mick

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Hmmmmm,

Are you saying I wasn't verbose enough?

 

No I believe that Ed was referring to the fact that Ken is rarely wrong wink.gifgrin.gifthumbsup.gif

No actually I think Ed was referring to the fact that THE "Danial" was rarely right!

 

Myself on the other hand, has been wrong. As a matter of fact for yesterday I'm 0-2!

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Update on the whirring noise. Tapping the control unit in the right area appeared to free up the relay switch. I've gone ahead and replaced the relay switch but have a couple observations for anyone else that needs to do it.

 

You have to remove the fuel tank but do not have to disconnect the fuel lines. There is enough slack to move the tank back and work on the unit.

 

The cover on the relay switch housing actually slides up and doesn't need to be pried off. The old relay switch has two contacts, one contact looked clean but the other contact looked like it was much darker in color, pitted and speckled around the contact.

 

Surprised to find small granular pellets around the top of the ABS control unit. Figured must be something to do with heat disperation, etc.

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Allanon1958

Hi,

My first post on this site but you lot have already been very helpful - thanks. Had the same whirring problem, replaced the relay (and I'm not too spanner friendly). All went well, whirring stopped but ABS lights continue to flash. Is it low battery power (battery is 5 yrs old)or does anyone have any other solutions, resetting ABS perhaps?

 

Cheers

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Yes, an ABS fault can definitely be battery related and, if the original lead acid battery, at 5 years old will be the end of its life cycle!

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