steveg Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 on my r1100 rt tonight and had to limp it home around 15 miles. didn't want to look into it tonight , wait till tomorrow when its cooled down. its the rt. jug thats out, any idea's about where to check first. bike was running fine prior to that its a 2000 thanks for any suggestions steve Link to comment
ShovelStrokeEd Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 Easy stuff and cheapest first. Spark plug, spark plug wire, bad coil, injector wire, injector plumbing. Expensive stuff Burnt exhaust valve (do a compression check while the plugs are out and yes you need to take both out, full throttle while cranking as well. Do install good plugs in the wires and carefully ground them to the cylinders or you'll damage the ignition control). Bad Motronic. Possible collapsed piston or bad cylinder wall coating. Link to comment
Edgar Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 The first thing that comes to mind and Ed touched on it is the throttle cable / throttle crank. Perhaps a stone or other debris became lodged in there. Check the cable and then on to the plug and wire. Pull the plug out, reconnect it to the cable ground it, and crank the engine and look for spark and go from there. Link to comment
Phill Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 Same happened to me not so long ago. Turned out to pretty simple for hope it does for you. Mine was bad electrical connection on one left hand fuel injector. Link to comment
steveg Posted July 25, 2006 Author Share Posted July 25, 2006 I checked out the bike tonight and found that i dont have any compression in the rt side, am trying to get the allen bolt off that holds the cam sprocket on but am having trouble. put an impact gun on it but still wont come loose. is there something that im missing steve Link to comment
Phill Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 Seen also an exaust valve siezed open Link to comment
steveg Posted July 26, 2006 Author Share Posted July 26, 2006 I have the head off and one of the ehaust valves has a hole in it, upon further inspection I found the plastic cam chain slide rails to be in about 4 pieces, I had to remove them with a real long pair of needle nose plyers. Im wondering if I should take off the left head and have that done too or just fix the one thats broke. bike has 140,000 miles Link to comment
4wheeldog Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 Hate to bear bad news, but I believe the cases have to come apart to deal with the cam chain problem. Sorry, and Good Luck! Link to comment
DavidEBSmith Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 Hate to bear bad news, but I believe the cases have to come apart to deal with the cam chain problem. Sorry, and Good Luck! Yup. Link to comment
Jim Moore Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 140,000 miles? You got your use out of it. Bury it in the backyard. Link to comment
CTRBLNCD1 Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 140,000 miles? You got your use out of it. Bury it in the backyard. +1 We like to think they'll run forever, but they do die (occasionally ). Better off putting money in a new one. Repair costs for that ( unless you can do it on your own, and I would respect that ! So sorry for the presumption ) at a dealer will come close to or exceed current value of the bike. Link to comment
smiller Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 If it were just a dead cylinder I'd say repair it (shouldn't be too costly if you did the work yourself), but having to strip the bike down to the engine and split the cases to fix the cam chain tensioner would probably cross the line for me for a high-mileage bike. Part out what you can and spend in on a new bike, or another used RT if you like. Link to comment
Tony_K Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 Steve sounds like he's a wrencher to me Yeah the case will need to be split but sounds like it's mostly top end. Once it's open a decision can be made after inspection and mesurements are taken. If it really is all just top end he can have it back on the road in no time and for not that much money in the end. Wrenchers UNITE! Link to comment
redryder Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 Steve sounds like he's a wrencher to me Yeah the case will need to be split but sounds like it's mostly top end. Once it's open a decision can be made after inspection and mesurements are taken. If it really is all just top end he can have it back on the road in no time and for not that much money in the end. Wrenchers UNITE! I'd fix BOTH heads while I'm at it. Go ahead and put new valves in both heads while its down. If you like the bike, and you're willing to put the money into it, more power to you! A good mechanic friend of mine told me about doing a valve job on a Mercedes gas motor with 250K on it. When he took the head off it, the hone marks were still visible on the cylinder walls. The moral of this story is that despite all the bad press the Marque gets on this site, they build a very good, very reliable product. If you like the bike, rebuild it and you will be rewarded with many more years of fun. Link to comment
steveg Posted July 29, 2006 Author Share Posted July 29, 2006 Steve sounds like he's a wrencher to me Yeah the case will need to be split but sounds like it's mostly top end. Once it's open a decision can be made after inspection and mesurements are taken. If it really is all just top end he can have it back on the road in no time and for not that much money in the end. Wrenchers UNITE! Yeah I'm A wrencher, talked to a bmw mechanic today and he told me of a way to replace the chain sliders without splitting the cases, although it is not a bmw approved repair but according to him he's done it and it worked out ok gonna have to do it the Mc Giver way. I'll let you all know how it worked out when i'm back on the road with it. I have to have 200,000 moles on this bike for me to feel that I got my mony's worth. Steve Link to comment
mshuell Posted July 29, 2006 Share Posted July 29, 2006 There are a couple of used RT engines with low miles posted on Beemerboneyard.com for around $750. Assuming the condition is as advertised, it sounds pretty reasonable to me. Best Wishes, Mark Shuell. Link to comment
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