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Clutch adjustment


GordonB

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When adjusting the clutch cable (2000RT);

The 'slack' at the clucth lever is correct 5mm-7mm,

Is the setting at the adjuster nut at the transmission end independent of the clutch lever?

It seems as one affects the other.

Is the transmission end soley for when the clutch cable becomes so stretched with age or so tight when new to allow for addtl adjustment that can't be accomplished at the readily accessible clutch lever?

Or, does this adjustment have an affect on the the pushrod.

I've been neglecting this adjustment and want to be sure it has nothing to do with my symptoms of possible clutch spline dryness. blush.gif

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John Dickens

Set the threaded adjuster at the clutch lever so that there is 12mm of thread showing outside the locking ring.

 

Go to the clutch operating lever on the back of the gearbox and using a combination of a 13mm socket, a swivel and some extensions carefully slacken the locknut on the adjuster.

 

Adjust the 10mm adjusting screw at the back of the gearbox until there is 7mm of free play at the handlebar clutch lever. Use a ty-wrap to hold the handlebar lever against the handlebar. This will stop the adjuster moving as you nip up the 13mm locknut at the gearbox.

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Huh? tongue.gif I thought you used the clutch lever adjusting ring to achieve the 7mm of freeplay blush.gif Now I'm confused confused.gif Why do you set the locking ring to 12mm of thread and then adjust at the transmission for 7mm of freeplay crazy.gif

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Set the cable adjustment ring at the end of the clutch cable to 10-12 mm of thread showing. Then proceed with the pushrod adjustment on the transmission behind the left foot plate so that you can achieve the 5-7 mm free play in the clutch lever as measured at the gap at the end of the lever. As you make the adjustment at the rear of the transmission you will be adjusting the free play on the clutch lever at the handlebar. Stop and tighten everything up when you have the 5-7 mm free play at the clutch lever.

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very good instructions. one item, initial setting is 12mm and 7mm. I then go down to 9mm and 5mm just using the lock ring up at the clutch lever. Once I have no more play up there to keep at least a 9mm 5mm ratio, I then go back down to the adjustment on the back of the transmission

 

Usually this is only once a year, and I just adjust the bolt / nut on the end of the transmission once a year when I am changing a rear tire

 

much easier to do and get exact with the rear tire off.

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Thanks, I'll give it a shot in the morning, I understand the procedure explained above; Just can't figure the bit about the adjustment ring being set to 12mm of thread. I thought it was there to get clutchlever freeplay adjusted.

And is the 12mm measured between the adjuster ring and the inside of locking nut or from the adjuster ring to the outside of the locking nut.

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Thanks for the info....Everything is dead on 12mm at locknut, 6mm at clutch lever. Guess I'll be looking at my clutch splines soon; But first the FD frown.gif

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  • 1 month later...
Set the threaded adjuster at the clutch lever so that there is 12mm of thread showing outside the locking ring.

 

Go to the clutch operating lever on the back of the gearbox and using a combination of a 13mm socket, a swivel and some extensions carefully slacken the locknut on the adjuster.

 

Adjust the 10mm adjusting screw at the back of the gearbox until there is 7mm of free play at the handlebar clutch lever. Use a ty-wrap to hold the handlebar lever against the handlebar. This will stop the adjuster moving as you nip up the 13mm locknut at the gearbox.

 

Just finished adjusting my long overdue '97 RT. This thread was a big help. The ty-wrap tip was useful. However, the jam nut at the gearbox required a 14mm socket instead of the 13mm mentioned above. Perhaps the later models use the 13mm nut. The the adjustment bolt required a 10mm socket as you mentioned. To break the jam nut free, I used a 14mm deep socket with 1 u-joint and 15" extention (a 3" and a 12"). Found that I had to use a heavy duty screw driver or pry bar to keep the 14" socket level and not slipping off when breaking the jam nut loose.

 

After fooling around for several minutes from the right side to get the 7mm gap to stay after I retighted the jam nut, I removed the rear tire and found it much easier to access the adjustment by reaching around the left of the rear shock. Also found that once the jam nut was loose, I could turn the adjustment bolt by hand and also snug-up the jam nut by hand while holding the adjustment bolt before putting the 14" socket back on it for final tighting.

 

Can't believe how much easier it is to get smooth shifts with a properly adjusted clutch.

 

So much of the free play was used up that I was getting some slippage in 4th gear under heavy acceleration such as passing. After adjustment - no more noticeable slippage. My procrastination probably shortened clutch life a little. One of these days I think I will eliminate procrastination. crazy.gif

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One of these days I think I will eliminate procrastination. crazy.gif

 

Let us know how that works out for you. wave.gif I have been working on it for years. dopeslap.gif

 

As soon as I get around tuit, you'll be the one of the first to know! Monday evening, my wife got back from a four day vacation in your neck of the world - Boothbay with some ladies she used to work with. She had a great time.

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