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Pulled the pink bastard


NoHeat

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I bought a used '03 R1150RT a few weeks ago. It surged, with a hunt-and-seek in the fuel delivery that was especially especially annoying while riding city streets at a steady speed.

 

I took it back to the dealer, who synched the throttle. This reduced the surging by half. He pronounced the remaining surge to be "light" and "as good as it's going to get," making it clear he wasn't interested in trying anything more.

 

I wouldn't describe the remaining surge as "light" and "good". It was still enough to annoy me so that I didn't take pleasure in riding on streets. So I read lots of posts in this forum. I was especially attracted to the instructions* for removing the pink CCP. Nothing could be easier or cheaper than this simple procedure. I did it today, and it worked nicely. For me, it cut the remaining surge in half.

 

So now the nuisance is about 1/4 of what it once was. It's still not as smooth as a bike with a carburetor, but it's a lot less noticeable. If I don't get used to it, I'll consider the other remedies that have been recommended here.

 

Thanks to all those who posted detailed instructions over the last couple of years on pulling that Pink Bastard!

 

* For those who don't know, I summarize the instructions: First, with the engine off, lift the seat to access the fusebox. Second, remove the CCP jumper (large pink box in the middle of the fuse box) and discard it. Third, reset the Motronic by momentarily pulling and then replacing the 5th fuse from the left. Fourth, twist the throttle a couple of times over its full range. The latter two steps are done with the key in the on position but the motor not running. Finally, replace the seat, start the engine, and ride!

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chrisstroh

One detail that I haven't seen mentioned is the last step when twisting the throttle with the key on. I would assume it's key on AND make sure the kill switch is on too? Does the kill switch kill the connection of the motronic too? dopeslap.gif

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One detail that I haven't seen mentioned is the last step when twisting the throttle with the key on. I would assume it's key on AND make sure the kill switch is on too? Does the kill switch kill the connection of the motronic too? dopeslap.gif
Correct. Just like you were about to thumb the starter and ride off: a few WOT's and fully closed, then start and go ride. cool.gif

 

Oh, for those searching it is commonly referred to as a "LPB" for "little pink bastard". Other bikes (non US) might have an OGB (olive green bastard) or even none at all.

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NoHeat, keep us updated on how the long term removal of that pink (cal jumper) effects both your fuel mileage (it will drop it's just a matter of how much) & how long you can go before you poison your catalytic converter..

 

It will run a fair amount richer now so the catalytic converter will be over taxed to handle the extra heat (assuming you are still running the stock cat. Converter).. If the catalyst cooks it will start to restrict exhaust flow (you will know that by a reduced top speed & a drop off in full throttle 0-60 mph accelerations..

 

Now that the pink calibration jumper is gone have you thought of installing the "non emission country" fuel trim potentiometer so you can set the fuel trim to a reasonable fuel air mixture?.

 

Twisty

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Blue Beemer Dude

Has anyone suggested or have you read about doing a proper (i.e. what I call the super anal-retentive) valve adjustment? I found that with my bike even after proper "dealer servicing" it still surged a bit, so I did my own valve adjustment and my own TBS, and now all is wonderful!

 

If you can't do it, surely you can find someone on this board who can help you out. Running the bike rich (as I assume will happen without the LPB) can cause all kinds of problems down the road.

 

Michael

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ShovelStrokeEd

Twisty,

No reason to suspect that fuel milage will drop all that much and the O2 sensor, if it has been left in place will take care of the catalytic converter just fine at part throttle. In addition, there should be no "poison" so long as he continues to run unleaded gas.

 

I do agree that installation of a CO pot to correct the idle fuel air mixture should accompany the removal of the LPB. Not to protect the cat as it doesn't do much at idle anyway but to help maintain clean air. I have found that setting the CO pot to the high side of the range, say 3% as opposed to the 1.5%, helps with off idle throttle response.

 

As to it overheating, not likely. It is easily capable of handling mixtures as rich as 12:1, which is roughly where the motor operates at full throttle. Removing the LPB won't have things anywhere near that rich.

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ShovelStrokeEd, that's assuming it still uses the O2 sensor with an open cal.. In doing some research on the (perceived) low idle problem I had, it looks like the O2 sensor is only used for certain cal situations.. This I don't know for a fact but there sure is evidence pointing that way..

We'll know right quick if his fuel mileage falls off a measurable amount..

 

Twisty

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Ed - I don't think you can install a CO pot on the 1150, only on the 1100.

 

OP - History of this change (pulling the CAT Code Plug (the LPB's correct name)) would indicate you will see a drop in fuel mileage, after all, enriching the fuel mixture curve to hide the surging issue is what you are doing. But there has been no history of resulting catalytic converter problems. You're not changing the curve all that much.

 

The tree hugger in me compels me to at least mention though that potentially the bike is no longer in emission specifications as a result of this change. A fact that is important to some, totally irrelevant to others.

 

Try once doing an AR valve adjustment and your own AR TB sync, put the CAT Code plug back in, do the throttle range reset with the plug in, and then see what the bike rides like. You likely will be able to get the best of all worlds: minimal surging, good mileage, AND a less polluting bike. thumbsup.gif

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... the O2 sensor, if it has been left in place will take care of the catalytic converter just fine

...

installation of a CO pot to correct the idle fuel air mixture should accompany the removal of the LPB.

I might be having a senior moment here, but aren't the CO pot and the O2 sensor mutually exclusive?

 

AIUI, the 1150 does not need (has no provision for?) a CO pot. Certainly, the 1150 has been supplied to some markets with no cat code plug at all -- it isn't a 'default' or limp-home option, but one of the fuel maps.

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SAAB93driver

Some people report to have had luck with the olive colored CCP or a jumper that simulates it, I don't recall the connections that it makes but simply a different map for a different market.

 

On the 1150 engine I don't believe a CO Pot can be installed.

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You might want to read this info submitted by Rob Lentini..

 

It pretty well covers the early 2.2 system.. He’s not sure how it carries over into the later 2.4 system (therefore the questions on my part in the earlier post).

 

If the 2.2 & 2.4 systems act at all alike, there is a big concern on the life of the catalytic converter in extended usage without the cat code plug in place..

 

If the 1150 does in fact have no place for a trim pot then maybe (a big maybe here) it still uses the O2 for fueling calculations even with the cat code plug removed..

 

Twisty

Rob Lentini article

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creekstone
The tree hugger in me compels me to at least mention though that potentially the bike is no longer in emission specifications as a result of this change.

On my 2000 RT, I left the CCP (little yellow bastard) out for my state inspection. It passed the emission testing. grin.gif But I'll be the first to admit that Texas probably doesn't lead the nation (by a long shot) in emission requirements. frown.gif

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If the 1150 does in fact have no place for a trim pot then maybe (a big maybe here) it still uses the O2 for fueling calculations even with the cat code plug removed.

That is my understanding.

 

The Olive Green plug is/was used by BMW in the UK for some persistent surgers (hearsay evidence only, but from a reliable source (UK BMW tech)) and can be simulated easily by a single wire link in the cat code plug socket. This link has a fully explanatory photo of the link in place and this is the method that I use.

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ShovelStrokeEd

You guys are correct about the use or really non-use of a CO pot on an 1150. My fault for not checking which bike the OP is riding.

 

I am pretty sure the 2.4 system still uses the O2 sensor to keep the mixture going to the cat under control. I have that system on my 1100S and, even though it is chipped and has an aftermarket exhaust that eliminates the cat, I left the O2 sensor in and can feel its effects when, in the rather rare case, I am running at light, part throttle and lower (<3500) rev range. I did, right after I installed the system, run it on a dyno with a multi gas analyzer and it was well within Florida's requirements.

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I've run about 4,000 miles on my '03 RT with the pink CCP pulled. Runs far smoother with almost no surging. I've had no problems so far, and there was no measurable drop in fuel economy.

 

Essentially, pulling the CCP only enriches the mixture when riding in cruise mode (low speed/low throttle input). Unless you spend most of your time riding on residential streets, you probably don't drive in cruise mode enough to significantly effect fuel economy or air emmissions.

 

For me, pulling the CCP was the only thing that kept me from selling the RT after enduring the severe surging the bike originally exhibited. I have no desire to do my own valve and throttle body adjustment, so extra careful maintenance is not in my bike's future. Try it, you'll be amazed.

 

GW

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I left the CCP (little yellow bastard) out for my state inspection. It passed the emission testing. grin.gif But I'll be the first to admit that Texas probably doesn't lead the nation (by a long shot) in emission requirements. frown.gif
Let me be the first to say that motorcycle inspections in TX do not include emission testing blush.gif. The inspection basically confirm that you have two wheels with rubber, functional lights, and a horn that works.
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John,

Pulling the LPB is a great move. In Australia, we are fortunate enough to have the bike supplied without any CCP at all. It meets our emission standards without one.

Enjoy the ride.

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Do you run a factory cat in Australia?

Do you mean do we run a factory catalytic converter? Yes we do.

The only significant differences with the Oz bikes is that they are supplied standard without a CCP or charcoal canister.

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I've run about 4,000 miles on my '03 RT with the pink CCP pulled. Runs far smoother with almost no surging. I've had no problems so far, and there was no measurable drop in fuel economy.

 

Essentially, pulling the CCP only enriches the mixture when riding in cruise mode (low speed/low throttle input). Unless you spend most of your time riding on residential streets, you probably don't drive in cruise mode enough to significantly effect fuel economy or air emmissions.

 

GW

Leslie and I have been running without a CCP (but with scissors . . . wink.gif ) for about 50,000 miles each now. We DO do our own pretty Anal Retentive valve adjusts and TB synchs and we still had a bit of surging which the removal of the LPB all but completely eliminated. To be sure that we didn't take a gas mileage or performance hit, in one of our cross country jaunts we did alternating pulls of the CCP every tank for at least 1000 miles. We usually ride tank-to-tank and she usually uses about half a gallon less per full tank (~ 5+ gallons on fill up). I'd pull mine, reset the motronic, then we'd kill a tank of gas, compare performance changes and mileage at the next fuel stop, then she'd pull hers for the next tank of gas, etc. alternating back and forth for a couple days.

 

We noticed no measurable change in mileage (these were cross country trips so most was spent not at cruising speed), but did notice a better off-idle response and much less surging. The only thing else we noticed was a bit of a "growlier" sound to the motor which hasn't seemed to have any effect on the power or longevity of the motors. We both have over 110,000 miles on the bikes total with over 50,000 running without the LPB's. There has been no other changes in oil consumption or performance, though I haven't done a compression check yet. When the top ends need rebuilding, we're going to do the San Jose BMW dual plug conversion so I'll be able to report on conditions on the inside of the cylinders then as well! clap.gif

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