RTP Rider Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 On the home stretch with my tranny swap/spline lube on the 99 R1100 RT-P project bike. So far, the toughest obstacles have been getting the airbox seated right and.. getting the u joints phased properly and the male splines of the final drive inserted into the drive shaft. True, it may have gone quicker if I had a helper, but I pushed, pulled, aligned and cursed trying and trying again to get that final drive connected! Then it happenned.. like buttah! I used the shop rag technique with a pice of bent coat hangar (VERY high tech). But somehow I gotta believe that there's a tool/gizmo/ancient secret to get this done easier. Do I get some sort of shoulder patch or medal now? Link to comment
steve.foote Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 No tool, no patch, and no metal. But, you do get to know the secret handshake. I use the rag technique, but others have had success with ice. However you do it, it is sure to increase your vocabulary. Link to comment
KMG_365 Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 Glad you got it! I use the long screwdriver inserted through the hole on the side. Link to comment
Stan Walker Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 I use the long screwdriver inserted through the hole on the side. Me too. Stan Link to comment
Halk Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 How did the final drive splines look? dry? Still sufficiently lubed? Did it need it, or could you have bypassed that part? H. Link to comment
RTP Rider Posted July 6, 2006 Author Share Posted July 6, 2006 Great question! All the splines looked dry to me. Some residual grease but hardly lubed. No spline damage at all (this bike had a bad 2nd gear at 21K miles so it's still pretty fresh mechanically), but I personally think it was worth inspecting everything and hitting it with the Honda Moly 60. Maybe when I do this again the grease will have burnt off from the moly 60 and only the moly powder will still be in the splines.. but I'm guessing I'll at least see something! Also, I 'DID" use the long screw driver through the hole technique too. Seems that I kept angling the final drive shaft away from the main drive shaft that way. So I created a bent cup out of the coat hanger to balance the final drive shaft better. Hardy a leapfrog in technology, but it helped a bit! There's no way I could see using ice cubes. That must have been invented by someone else as a goof to torture us poor souls doing our own wrenching! Link to comment
SWB Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 Did clutch look ok, too? Did you inspect the crown wheel bearing, swingarm pivot bearings, or wheel bearings when you had the final drive apart? Link to comment
RTP Rider Posted July 6, 2006 Author Share Posted July 6, 2006 Yeah I gave the final drive a pretty thorough inspection. All the parts were in great shape, thankfully. No oil seepage anywhere and the clutch looked brand new. My 2001 RT-P now has 67K and will be hitting the lift soon, after the 99 is running. That will be interesting to see in comparison (vs 21K on the '99). The '01 runs like a top, so I'm hoping for the best! You really get to know your bike up close and personal after one of these transmission/spline lube jobs! Once I can spare the time, I'm going to crack the removed transmission to see what caused the grinding in 2nd gear. Never opened up a BMW tranny before. Have you done the spline lube yet SWB? Link to comment
mikefigielski Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 I have actually used a small snow ball in the winter, works better than ice. You So Cal boys better stick to the rags and long screwdrivers though.......... Link to comment
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