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R1200RT TPS Adjustment changes for 2006?


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BMW is crowing over their different fuel injection system for the R1200RT. Do the notes from the former (R1150RT) systems apply when zero-indexing the TPS's (there are two, from what I understand), and are the procedures the same for throttle body balancing?


There seems to be a dearth of documentation about the R1200RT changes in procedure. I find lots of slightly older R1150 stuff, but yet no certain answer to the 1200.




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See my answer to your other post on the R12RT backfiring thread. Yes, the engine management is completetly different for the R1200 series.

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Oh! Excellent! Beat's the Guzzi's "run the engine with the throttle linkage between the cylinders disconnected- fast idle by opening up the NON TPS just a little... Get a steady voltage, adjust to...


Are there still, then, brass screws? Do I assume the throttle bodies are fully closed on the stops, or do I adjust from somewhere?


Sigh. It might be time to get the Shop manual.


My throttle bodies are obviously out- though not by too much. IN traffic jams, I can't release the clutch at low (low) speeds without the engine bucking like a bronco, chasing itself (like a poorly compensated diesel engine govenor). Just a touch above walking speeds, everything smooths out.

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I don't know crap about this subject other than this:


After going through my service CD I ran accross the steps a dealer has to do during the sync. It was made very clear NOT to touch the varnish covered brass screws. If they were then the throttle bodies would have to be sent back to the supplier for calibration.


That's just what I read. Not sure how serious it is. Just thought you'd want to know.

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There are no brass screws on the 1200's. There is no Zero-Zero process, just hook your balancing device of choice to the throttle bodies and balance (off idle only) using the right side throttle body cable adjustment (after a thorough vave adjustment). You're done. thumbsup.gif





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The brass air bypass screws are history. The new system uses stepper motors on each TB for idle speed and sync. The throttle stop screws must not be touched! mess them up and you are into a new TB (actually cheaper than recalibration). All you have to do is synchronize the TBs off idle, usually at 3000 RPM. BMW Specs call for a maximum of 15 mb relative difference between the cylinders. Make sure you don't tighten the TB cables to cause the TB not to seat off throttle. Better to loosen the cable opening too far than tightening the cable that needs extra opening.


Oh, the procedure calls for hooking the GT1 tester up to align the stepper motors when you do a TB sync. This might be a problem for the do it your self approach if the steppers are adjusting for an intake leak, out of adjustment valves, or tampered with throttle stop screws. thumbsup.gif

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