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Synthetic oil-R1200RT


ronald

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I have heard that synthetic oil is recommended for the R1200RT but not until after a significant number of miles like 20000 or so.

My question if any one can help is what would be the repercussions if you introduced the synthetic oil too early like at 6000 miles.

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I heard about a guy that used synthetic too early and his engine parts became so slick that the entire engine fell apart! eek.gif He stopped to gather the pieces and got hit by a truck bncry.gif but that was okay because he had a lot of life insurance and his wife didn't really like him anyway..Having said that I'd still be very careful about using synthetic too soon. thumbsup.gif

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I have heard that synthetic oil is recommended for the R1200RT but not until after a significant number of miles like 20000 or so.

My question if any one can help is what would be the repercussions if you introduced the synthetic oil too early like at 6000 miles.

 

As I was properly educated yesterday on the forum ( hehe ), the manual states no earlier then 6000 miles ( pg 138 if memory serves me right ). Although, most recommendations I have heard are 15,000++ before synt addition

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I've been gunshy about synthetics since trying it in my '03 K12GT. Found out there wasn't a tight seam on the whole engine. Took three trips to the shop and a new clutch (main crank seal leaked too) to get it sealed back up. tongue.gif

 

I'd like to hear someone's experience with synthetics on the new boxer engines. I've got over 12k on the bike and would like to run synth at some point, but don't want to deal with a bunch of leaks.

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Gordon K Phillips

My 05 had stopped oil usage at the 6000, (done at 6500 ), dealer said synthetic was OK; I have now put another 3500 mi on the engine and it runs great and still no oil usage, i.e. 2-3 ounces in 3500 miles. I am using BMW synthetic 15-50. wave.gif

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ShovelStrokeEd

Airhead, oilhead, hexhead, flying brick, whatever, the engine won't care, it can't read you know.

 

I very much doubt the addative package in synthetic oil differs all that much from that in "dino" based oils. The difference is in the base stocks from which they are made and that allows synthetic oils to be a bit more temperature tolerant and retain lubricity for longer change intervals.

 

The reason stated for the non-use of synthetics is that it will prolong the wear in period and that is, more or less, bullshit. If the motor is worn in properly, see the FAQ in the oilhead wrenching section, the process of getting the rings to seat and the metal parts subject to rubbing friction (mostly the valve train) properly mated can happen in a few hours. Certainly within 500 miles. After that, there is no good reason not to run synthetic if ambient conditions call for it.

 

The principle advantages to synthetic oils are in the extended drain interval and the tolerance for higher operating temperatures. If you are going to stick to the recommended oil change intervals and mostly operate the motor at moderate loads, no reason to go to synthetic.

 

I often have to run my motors under some pretty severe conditions. Near 100 degree temps and prolonged periods of slow running where the oil temperature tends to climb quite a bit. I choose to use synthetic oils in my motors for that reason and all of them have had the change over to synthetic at the 600 mile service. None of my engines has ever consumed oil at an excessive rate. My 1100S, which is probably the worst of the bunch, uses about 8oz of oil in 2K miles if I'm riding it hard. I don't even bother to add oil to the thing anymore as it will be less than a quart low (4 quart sump) at the 6000 mile change interval.

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What ED said. thumbsup.gif I have changed my motors as early as 2500 miles. Never had one use oil. In fact out of 4 oilheads I have had none ever used oil. I'm told the CHP here change to synthetic at the first service.

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The reason stated for the non-use of synthetics is that it will prolong the wear in period and that is, more or less, bullshit. If the motor is worn in properly, see the FAQ in the oilhead wrenching section, the process of getting the rings to seat and the metal parts subject to rubbing friction (mostly the valve train) properly mated can happen in a few hours. Certainly within 500 miles. After that, there is no good reason not to run synthetic if ambient conditions call for it.

 

I am not trying to be snide or a jerk, but as a proponent for sticking WITH dino, I must ask:

 

Why go to synthetic if the manufacturer says there's no need? I do put some faith in a corporation that can take a drawing and make it cruise down the Autobahn at 130mph ( 0r 176 in the case of the K12S ). I/we all appreciate the technology and extensive design our bikes have, so why not appreciate and trust the suggestions and guidance that the manufacturer states is recommended with regards to care of the product. Take a drawing and create a complex machine that carries ME and I will listen to how you want me to care for it. Save a few bucks on each quart? Sure! Put in synthetic because I think it's better for it, no thanks. I will stick to what they recommend.

 

Sure oil analysis and all says its fine. But I havent seen a BMW seize/break/overheat because of dino. But I HAVE seen rear mains leak, final drive oils leak and bike burn/consumer oil WAY LATE in their life. The common denominator in these examples over the past 5 years of being in the industry??? Sythetic oil early.

 

Peace said! Again, disclaimer....All in good debate! Love ya all and LOVE MY BMW thumbsup.gif

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I don't know why pepole want to use Synthetic oil.

IMVeryHO, PERCEPTION is a very powerful thing. If you think it will be better for your bike/car/truck/SUV and make your life better, it will be so in many cases.

 

As an average, conservative, rider/driver who doesn't live in a particularly harsh environment or who doesn't have to commute in heavy 'stop-and-go' traffic and who rarely exceeds 70-75 mph, I see no reason to ever switch to synthetic oil.

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ShovelStrokeEd

'Zactly. I, on the other hand ride in traffic at near hundred degree temperatures every day and when free of said traffic, I am seldom under 90 mph indicated. I also tend to prolong (read as lazy) oil change intervals to the point where guilt forces me into the garage to do it. For me, synthetic makes sense.

 

In terms of the seals and other urban myth, who is to say the seal would not have failed with dino in the crankcase. I remember some 30 years ago having a lubricant salesman bring in some synthetic gear oil for the printing presses I was working on at the time. Claims of energy savings due to superior lubrication and less wear on our critical gears. Yes, you guessed it, motor current for the same speed did go down but shortly afterward, every seal in the printing units started weeping oil. Took us weeks to straighten it out. That was then, this is now, the wicking properties were knocked way back about 25 years ago and there haven't been enough seal failures since to make any statistical sense as to whether the seal failed due to the use of synthetic lubricants.

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St0nkingByte

I keep starting to post this then I stop and here I am posting it now but when I picked up my RT from the first service I asked the service manager what they used in the bike because I wanted to just use what they used. He said they use the BMW stuff which is a synthetic blend. So where does that fall in the dino vs synthetic debate? grin.gif

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On the first service my dealer replaced the oil with Castrol Activ 4T - "a mineral based oil with synthetic esters that cling".

This synthetic vs mineral oil debate could go on forever.

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I have nearly 6K on my new RT, and i plan to break it in the same way I broke in my 2000 R12C. I was told to wait until the 18K service, or more, to make the change to synthetic, which I did. The oil usage had gone way down by then, and continued to decline to nothing. I now have over 95,000 miles on the cruiser and it uses no oil and runs great. The RT has already stopped using much oil, but i believe these engines use such hard, quality metals that it truly does take a while to break them in. So I am not going to mess with success. Just my two cents worth.

 

curry

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  • 2 weeks later...

My R12RT is going to the dealer tomorrow for its 12K service and I have to decide what oil to put in. I did a search of the forum for advice on making the switch to synthetic oil.

 

I just want you all to know that this thread has cleared everything up! dopeslap.gifwave.gif

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