Any ideas on this leak?

[photojournalyst]

I've got this leaking out a little bit at a time from the crack in the tranny. I'm not sure what this is, but it's black, and doesn't like to clean off easily. Anything that I can do about this? Or perhaps, even better, what is it?

 

Any thoughts I would be greatful for.

 

Thanks!

[Haynes]

I'd guess that the rear main seal on the engine is leaking and depositing oil into the clutch housing. The oil will mix the with the friction material dust and turn it black. One can expect that the flywheel is working like a centrifuge and throwing the oil around the inside of the casing.

[ShovelStrokeEd]

Yup. It is probably not bad enough yet to effect your clutch but, it ain't gonna get any better on its own.

[Jim Moore]

My GS has been like that for approximately 60,000 miles. I have heard shops claim that BMW put "too much lubricant" somewhere and that mess you see is flung-off lube. BS? I don't know.

 

It may be the beginning of a rear main engine seal leak, like the others suggested. I've seen 'em a lot worse than that. I'd take a wait-and-see approach.

[photojournalyst]

Wait and see until what? I'm going to assume it gets worse. Is a new clutch and rear mainseal my winter project?

[Rob L]

Wait and see until what? I'm going to assume it gets worse. Is a new clutch and rear mainseal my winter project?

 

Probably...........maybe sooner

[matanuska]

Wait and see until what? I'm going to assume it gets worse. Is a new clutch and rear mainseal my winter project?

Wait to see if it affects clutch operation. It may not necessarily get any worse - the seal might just weep oil a little - and if your clutch isn't slipping, it might just be something you can decide to live with.

[DEF]

Here's the drill........

 

Installing the clutch-end radial shaft seal

• Shape the lip of the radial shaft seal carefully by

hand (7).

• Oil the radial shaft seal at the sealing/contact

surface.

• Using assembly sleeve, BMW No. 11 5 662,

mount the radial shaft seal with the closed side

toward the clutch onto drift, BMW No. 11 5 661,

with handle, BMW No. 00 5 500, (8).

• Remove assembly sleeve (9).

• Using the drift, drive the radial shaft seal

home (10).

[Rob L]

Here's the drill........

 

Installing the clutch-end radial shaft seal

• Shape the lip of the radial shaft seal carefully by

hand (7).

• Oil the radial shaft seal at the sealing/contact

surface.

• Using assembly sleeve, BMW No. 11 5 662,

mount the radial shaft seal with the closed side

toward the clutch onto drift, BMW No. 11 5 661,

with handle, BMW No. 00 5 500, (8).

• Remove assembly sleeve (9).

• Using the drift, drive the radial shaft seal

home (10).

 

Yeah...but you left out step # 1.

 

 

Remove transmission

[DEF]

Here's the drill........

 

Installing the clutch-end radial shaft seal

• Shape the lip of the radial shaft seal carefully by

hand (7).

• Oil the radial shaft seal at the sealing/contact

surface.

• Using assembly sleeve, BMW No. 11 5 662,

mount the radial shaft seal with the closed side

toward the clutch onto drift, BMW No. 11 5 661,

with handle, BMW No. 00 5 500, (8).

• Remove assembly sleeve (9).

• Using the drift, drive the radial shaft seal

home (10).

 

Yeah...but you left out step # 1.

 

 

Remove transmission

 

Remove the transmission?

 

Not necessary......pray!

[photojournalyst]

I'm not having any problems with the clutch slipping at all, and in the last 4k it's been pretty consistent. I guess this is just one of those wait and see situations. joy.

[DEF]

Monitor your transmission lube carefully and frequently otherwise, you could be looking at a much larger repair bill. While you're at it, monitor the rear drive lube as well.

 

While you're at it, why not change the tranmission and final drive lube....

 

Use 75W-140 EP GL-5 gear oil available at the auto parts store. It may help eliminate the leak if you add some moly (10%) to the oil.

 

Moly tends to help the seal avoid friction at the lip and therefore provide an improved seal but only if the seal is not cracked or damaged.

 

When changing transmission and final drive lube, I flush with ATF, the cheap, auto parts store brand. This will also help improve seal performance by slightly softening the seal elastomer.

 

As for the engine oil, flushing with ATF is also a good idea here. Fill with ATF and run the engine for a few moments while hot then drain. ATF contains anti-foam and corrosion inhibitors as well as detergents to keep the auto transmission clutch material in suspension.

 

Seals like these ATF additives.

 

Any residual ATF left behind is of no concern.

 

Good luck.

[photojournalyst]

So I'll go and get some new crush washers, and oil filter and wrench and stuff from the $tealership. I'll probably just buy their rear gear, tranny and engine oil out of convenience, and since I'll only lose a few dollars in the upcharge. ATF I have.

 

1 1/2 quarts atf for the engine? I've never heard of running atf in the engine before, so I'll admit to being doubious, but new things always come hard. Since I've had the bike since late march and put 4k on it, it probably would be a good idea to have the bike on a new fluid schedule that I'm familiar with.

 

One other issue (new thread possibility?) when the bike is cold, after I start it up there is some drag on the engine, like it's straining even though it's at an rpm range and throttle where it shouldn't. Not clutch slip because the engine bogs down a bit. Once warm (1/4 mile) no worries, no problem. Any thoughts?