2012 RT ESA Fault Code 41777(OxA331) front rebound adj open circuit

[46nto]

I was just going through the bike's modules looking for fault codes & found #41777(OxA331) front rebound adjustment open circuit. I cleared it but it came back. The bike has Wilbers ESA on the bike. Seems like a pretty easy code to troubleshoot, at least. I won't have time to dig into it til the weekend but I figure I'll start at the plug to the shock & check resistance to the stepper circuits. Could someone tell me where I might be able to find that plug? Also, does anyone happen to know the resistance values for the 2 circuits on that motor? As long as I'm in there, assuming the motor windings aren't open, I'll check the readings against the rear shock rebound motor.

 

I'm really hoping it's a simple wiring issue in a plug (like a pushed pin) or a cut wire in the harness but I fear the worst, of course lol. I'll test the output from the ZFE to both front & rear, too. No faults for the rear so I should get a good baseline from there. I work on transport refrigeration units & am familiar with stepper motors. I actually have a motor driver I could hook up, if need be (assuming the controlling voltage is similar)

 

Also, is there a way to get a complete list of fault codes for the different modules on this bike?

[jdub53]

35 minutes ago, 46nto said:

I won't have time to dig into it til the weekend but I figure I'll start at the plug to the shock & check resistance to the stepper circuits. Could someone tell me where I might be able to find that plug?

 

The wiring connection for the front shock ESA is just in front of the fuel tank on the top of the bike, with a side-to-side orientation so not too hard to access but you'll need to pull the center body panel on top of the fuel tank.  

[dirtrider]

43 minutes ago, 46nto said:

I was just going through the bike's modules looking for fault codes & found #41777(OxA331) front rebound adjustment open circuit. I cleared it but it came back. The bike has Wilbers ESA on the bike. Seems like a pretty easy code to troubleshoot, at least. I won't have time to dig into it til the weekend but I figure I'll start at the plug to the shock & check resistance to the stepper circuits. Could someone tell me where I might be able to find that plug? Also, does anyone happen to know the resistance values for the 2 circuits on that motor? As long as I'm in there, assuming the motor windings aren't open, I'll check the readings against the rear shock rebound motor.

 

I'm really hoping it's a simple wiring issue in a plug (like a pushed pin) or a cut wire in the harness but I fear the worst, of course lol. I'll test the output from the ZFE to both front & rear, too. No faults for the rear so I should get a good baseline from there. I work on transport refrigeration units & am familiar with stepper motors. I actually have a motor driver I could hook up, if need be (assuming the controlling voltage is similar)

 

Also, is there a way to get a complete list of fault codes for the different modules on this bike?

Morning Kris

 

Is the front strut plugged in?

 

If so then you should probably call Wilbers as it's their strut so they have probably fielded this question a few times before.

 

It could be a motorcycle electronic or wiring issue but also a very good chance that it could be cause by your front Wilbers. 

 

As a far as trouble  codes go, I personally have accumulated a number of them but there are some posed on the GS-911 web site.

 

If you aren't using a GS-911 then some codes read by other devices don't always match up to the BMW actual failure code numbers. 

[46nto]

32 minutes ago, jdub53 said:

 

The wiring connection for the front shock ESA is just in front of the fuel tank on the top of the bike, with a side-to-side orientation so not too hard to access but you'll need to pull the center body panel on top of the fuel tank.  

 Thank you jdub53! I'm at work & can't pull the body work off right now but I was able to locate the harness from the shock (seems to be the only one with vinyl sheathing on it} & can just feel the plug under the center take lid cover.

[46nto]

34 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

Morning Kris

 

Is the front strut plugged in?

 

If so then you should probably call Wilbers as it's their strut so they have probably fielded this question a few times before.

 

It could be a motorcycle electronic or wiring issue but also a very good chance that it could be cause by your front Wilbers. 

 

As a far as trouble  codes go, I personally have accumulated a number of them but there are some posed on the GS-911 web site.

 

If you aren't using a GS-911 then some codes read by other devices don't always match up to the BMW actual failure code numbers. 

 

Hi DR, I can't see the plug yet but it feels like it's plugged in. I'll pull the bodywork off when I have a chance to dig into it. I am using a GS911. I'm also *really* hoping it's not a Wilbers issue & it's in one of the harnesses somewhere! Depending what I see with the resistances with the front motor, I'll check continuity from the bike side plug to the ZFE connector. Like I said, it should be a fairly easy problem to troubleshoot but if it's not in the wiring, it could be an expensive repair should I decide to do it. 

[dirtrider]

24 minutes ago, 46nto said:

 

Hi DR, I can't see the plug yet but it feels like it's plugged in. I'll pull the bodywork off when I have a chance to dig into it. I am using a GS911. I'm also *really* hoping it's not a Wilbers issue & it's in one of the harnesses somewhere! Depending what I see with the resistances with the front motor, I'll check continuity from the bike side plug to the ZFE connector. Like I said, it should be a fairly easy problem to troubleshoot but if it's not in the wiring, it could be an expensive repair should I decide to do it. 

Morning Kris

 

You still might want to start with a call to Wilbers, if it's a known issue (or a common issue) they can probably save you a lot of work in tracking it down.

[46nto]

7 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

Morning Kris

 

You still might want to start with a call to Wilbers, if it's a known issue (or a common issue) they can probably save you a lot of work in tracking it down.

 

Good advice, will do, thank you.

[46nto]

Well, that was a simple diagnosis - it seems one of the stepper motor windings (or wires) is open inside the shock. That's a bummer. Hopefully, I don't have to replace the whole shock if I want it to work. Fortunately, the bike feels pretty good to me as is but it's going to drive me nuts knowing that isn't working... I sent a contact email to Beemershop asking about the fault code, looks like I'm going to have to give them a call & see what my options are.

[46nto]

Ok, actually learned a bit more, I think. Looks like the ESA portion of the shocks are not a Wilbers part, seems to be swapped from the OE shock. The rear has preload & rebound the front only has the rebound.

[Indy Dave]

I have a good used set Wilburs ESA shocks for Camhead RT's.

[46nto]

59 minutes ago, Indy Dave said:

I have a good used set Wilburs ESA shocks for Camhead RT's.

 

Hi Indy Dave, thanks for letting me know, although I think I've found a solution. I messaged Ted Porter looking for a resistance spec for the rebound stepper coils - he didn't have them but by that time, I'd checked mine & I believe the spec is somewhere around 44 ohms. He told me he thinks he may have a couple used motor assemblies around if I needed them. In the meantime, while waiting for his reply to my initial message, I found a used front OE ESA shock on ebay that looked really good for a reasonable price so I bought it. Seller accepts returns & I verified they'd take it back if the rebound motor was no good. Should be here Friday. I'll test it when it gets here & assuming it works, I'll swap it over in a couple weeks.

 

Do you happen to have any tips for removing the front shock on a camhead RT? Not sure if I can get it out without removing the front fairing but I'm going to try. Fortunatley, the lower mounting bolt is not frozen in the Telever arm so at least I won't be fighting that battle!

[Indy Dave]

You'll need to remove the tupperwear to get the upper shock mounting shaft/nut. You'll need all of that off to access the ESA plug (and to route the wire). Take your time releasing the plug. Many get impatient and break it. Besides, with the tupperwear off, the job is much easier with much better sight lines and access. Removing the tupperwear is as simple as can be - really, and it's not worth NOT removing it. You'll also need to remove the alternator cover (6 bolts) to get the Wilber's shock off - it has a larger spring vs factory. Do you need to replace you belt?

 

Done this job (both shock and belt) replacement many times - so don't be shy

[46nto]

1 hour ago, Indy Dave said:

You'll need to remove the tupperwear to get the upper shock mounting shaft/nut. You'll need all of that off to access the ESA plug (and to route the wire). Take your time releasing the plug. Many get impatient and break it. Besides, with the tupperwear off, the job is much easier with much better sight lines and access. Removing the tupperwear is as simple as can be - really, and it's not worth NOT removing it. You'll also need to remove the alternator cover (6 bolts) to get the Wilber's shock off - it has a larger spring vs factory. Do you need to replace you belt?

 

Done this job (both shock and belt) replacement many times - so don't be shy

 

Hello & thanks for the reply!

 

I plan to remove all the tupperware for sure. I was able to get to the plug by removing the right side fairings & tank cover. The tupperware in the Camhead RT is much less finicky than on my my 04, that's for sure (which is good because I'm sure I'll be in there often) I have a replacement belt I'll install when I'm in there -no point not doing it as I'm not sure when it was replaced last. 

 

I got the OEM shock today & the rebound motor circuits both measure about 44 ohms so the motor should work. I may have trouble separating it, though. I don't have any thin profile wrenches (looks like it may be 28mm but my calipers are in my bicycle toolbox at home so I can't be sure) to hold the nut between the spring & rebound motor. I ordered a slim jaw 10" adjustable wrench that might allow me to get the motor off without removing the spring but we'll see. I may have to remove the spring & file down the flange part of the nut to get a really secure grip on it. Fortunately the aluminum is butter soft & it won't be too difficult if need be.

 

I found this video on Beemershop's youtube channel (hope it's not an issue posting it here!). I think this is ESA1 but the process should be pretty much the same.