Rougarou Posted November 21 Posted November 21 2006 R1200RT pushing 160k. Tranny replaced at 73k, I said put a new clutch in since it was gonna be open. So lately, 3+ gear, moderate speeds, throttle the bike hard and the revs of the engine go up then it sorta feels like it meshes together seconds later. So, I dunno. I do know the job is not something I'd want to do and depending on if it is the clutch, the replacement costs will outweigh the value of the bike, but bike has many miles left and the goal is to crack 200k on it. Looked briefly at the REPROM and can't determine if there's a way to inspect the clutch for "fitness", unless I missed something. Ideas?
Skywagon Posted November 22 Posted November 22 Sounds like clutch to me. Next ride, get up to about 65 in 6th then go WOT. If it slips, most likely clutch. The question will be worn out or oil soaked from leaking seal. It’s probably worth fixing since you have another bike and don’t have to hurry. I think I remember @dirtrider describing a way to check via starter; and a way to drill a hole to let oil drain… might be dreaming but I would wait for DR to come along. Good luck 1
Rougarou Posted November 22 Author Posted November 22 I checked with the local shop just to see what the cost would be, $3700!!!!! Likely ain't gonna happen and the bike will be ridden until death
The Fabricator Posted November 23 Posted November 23 probably only needs the pressure plate. Leaking cutch slave or transmission rear seal probably responsible, assuming you don't abuse the clutch. 2
dirtrider Posted November 23 Posted November 23 On 11/21/2024 at 6:32 PM, Rougarou said: 2006 R1200RT pushing 160k. Tranny replaced at 73k, I said put a new clutch in since it was gonna be open. So lately, 3+ gear, moderate speeds, throttle the bike hard and the revs of the engine go up then it sorta feels like it meshes together seconds later. So, I dunno. I do know the job is not something I'd want to do and depending on if it is the clutch, the replacement costs will outweigh the value of the bike, but bike has many miles left and the goal is to crack 200k on it. Looked briefly at the REPROM and can't determine if there's a way to inspect the clutch for "fitness", unless I missed something. Ideas? Morning Richard It does sort of sound like a slipping clutch. The hexhead doesn't use a slave cylinder gasket so those usually allow leaking slave fluid out before it can do clutch damage, but at your higher milage the mating between the slave & transmission might be caked solid with old fluid/dirt enough to form a sort of gasket (use a strong light to see if the slave to transmission interface looks like it was seeping). Personally, I would remove the starter then look inside the clutch area for signs of slinging oil, therefore ruining the clutch. The 2005/2006 hexhead bikes had some issues with the rear seal of the balance shaft seeping oil into the clutch area. Or a loose rear balance shaft off-set-weight allowing oil to leak by. If oil is found you can t-r-y setting the clutch lever to all the way out (max lever movement), then zip tie the clutch lever against the grip (holds the clutch fully dis-engaged). Then spray the heck out of the clutch plate (keep rotating it with the trans in gear with the rear wheel spinning). Use a good quality brake clean then do the spraying, then allow to dry, then do it a again a couple of times. Or if you find oil in the clutch area you can dig in deeper, you can remove upper parts until you can gain access to the clutch area top bolt-on cover as that really exposes the clutch area for a much better cleaning & inspection. Don't abuse that slipping clutch (if it is a slipping clutch) as that will quickly glaze it, then you are walking. 2
Rougarou Posted November 23 Author Posted November 23 Thanks much. I never much noticed any slipping until very recently. Being the bike has a little bit of mileage on it, I've been gentle and not whomping on the throttle or really riding it hard. Last week, just for giggles, I decided to whomp it and that's when I found that RPMs go up and then the gears mesh together playing catch up. During normal riding, taking off, no issues, no slippage at all, only when I'd throttle it. Luckily, the bike is only used for commuting, no more long trips on it. I'll get to the inspection at some point in the near future, actually contemplating doing the job myself,.....not that I really want to but getting that quote has me leaning that way, and if it's broke, I can't break it no mo. I also gotta look at my paperwork when the tranny was changed out. I know I went with a newer model year tranny (2010 I think), which caused me to have to get a different driveshaft (something about length), so I would think that when all that was done, the housing and pushrod would be the updated ones. Since I'm cheep, could it be just the pressure plate like Tom says above or would I need all them bits and pieces like I was quoted,......or just tear the damn thing apart and determine the parts needed then. Build date on the bike is 02/06, so coming up on 18 years old, 14 of which were in my possession.
dirtrider Posted November 23 Posted November 23 1 hour ago, Rougarou said: Thanks much. I never much noticed any slipping until very recently. Being the bike has a little bit of mileage on it, I've been gentle and not whomping on the throttle or really riding it hard. Last week, just for giggles, I decided to whomp it and that's when I found that RPMs go up and then the gears mesh together playing catch up. During normal riding, taking off, no issues, no slippage at all, only when I'd throttle it. Luckily, the bike is only used for commuting, no more long trips on it. I'll get to the inspection at some point in the near future, actually contemplating doing the job myself,.....not that I really want to but getting that quote has me leaning that way, and if it's broke, I can't break it no mo. I also gotta look at my paperwork when the tranny was changed out. I know I went with a newer model year tranny (2010 I think), which caused me to have to get a different driveshaft (something about length), so I would think that when all that was done, the housing and pushrod would be the updated ones. Since I'm cheep, could it be just the pressure plate like Tom says above or would I need all them bits and pieces like I was quoted,......or just tear the damn thing apart and determine the parts needed then. Build date on the bike is 02/06, so coming up on 18 years old, 14 of which were in my possession. Morning Richard You will probably for-sure need the clutch disk as that is most likely glaze, or possibly oil soaked. Plus, I wouldn't go in that far with that much work without replacing the dish spring (at your miles that is probably getting weak) On the housing or pressure plate, that will have to be determined by the looks of them, if they have a lot of discolored hot spots or warpage then probably replace. 1
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