Those are “IT” moments, Big Bend, Texas

[MotoNews]

Published in: Rides

“James Moriarty” discovered a few “IT” moments when crisscrossing the country many moons ago with his buddy “Jack Kerouac” and the ensuing book, “On the Road.” There are those experienced moments which are indescribable, indefinable, and inexpressible.

There are the rare seconds of life’s clock when and where everything inner and outer flows as smoothly as a beautiful wave while we surf its crest… never wanting it to end. Such moments often happen in Big Bend, this vast one million plus acre national park that hugs Mexico and the Rio Grande along its natural boundary.

This is, for Spirit and I, our fourth winter base camping, as I call it, as we live on the road while crisscrossing this incredible country and more.

The locals here say “this is at the end of the world,” “this is the end of the line...” and how true it is. It is that giant green blob one sees on the map at the southern tip of Texas, way south, far away from civilization. This is where many like to call themselves “outlaws.” But they are not....

Yes, Big Bend is vast, rugged and one of the least visited national parks in the continental U.S. Three distinct ecosystems, endless views, powerful landscapes… a space that will leave you feeling as if you’ve stumbled onto a well-kept secret.

Yet, commodities here do exist. The eateries here are many. Terlingua is the little ghost town that stands out on its own. Entertainment is fabricated by the week. On a unique porch we gather to watch the sunset... not westward, but eastward, witnessing the Chisos Mountains turn on their incredible hues of reds, crimson, vermillion as well as all colors in between. A few feet away local musicians will lay out their homegrown music.

Starlight Theater, which at one time was indeed a theater with no roof, is today the restaurant where most everyone will meet, where besides the food, music plays on throughout the night. Campgrounds, as well as a few moderately-priced RV parks, and motels are ready for the taking.

All for us, are the fortunate ones on two wheels—in our case on three with our sidecar—coming to ride and experience… sensing and feeling the fabulous and breathtaking, almost fictional roads, paved and unpaved, casual or demanding, curved or straight… it is all here.

The riding clubs arriving are many now. They are mainly present on weekends and it is never a surprise to meet familiar faces. Big Bend has become, to many minds, the space to come through when jumping over this invisible wall which will take one, transposed, into a different world. A little extra mileage to get there is a good exchange for feeling so totally fulfilled from the experience—invariably wishing for a longer stay.

The roads into the park are of many—both paved and unpaved. Ore Road or the Old Maverick Road, will take you to the incredibly massive and majestic Santa Helena Canyon. Black Gap Road, for the more demanding rider, is never maintained.

East River Road, starting at the hot springs, passes a marker called Mariscal Mines, near the beginning of West River Road, which is even more challenging with its deep sand crossings. Paved River Road, from Terlingua to Presidio, is one of the 10 best scenic roads in the country.

You will never get enough—they’ll keep you coming back for more entrees after your first sampling these extraordinary appetizers. There is just so much to discover on this barely touched land. I could write about it for days on end (which I have in my own journal!), but you need to do yourself a favor and indulge.

There are spans more than what Big Bend’s acreage shows on the map. Besides Terlingua, Marathon, Alpine, Marfa and Ft. Davis are the other little nearby towns where one can re-provision, and continue to explore the open country we seek.

Into the national park “The Chisos” is a must. It is the high country overlooking it all, the “windows” as they call it… the space to be present for sunrise and sunset. The ride is along breathtaking curvy roads, yet one can easily lose their perspective amidst the sheer rock faces and surrounding peaks.

Another point we often visit, a luxury few find, is Sotol lookout—just thirteen miles past the entrance, making a right-hand turn toward Castolon where soon a brown sign will indicate the turn off. This is where Mexico again can be seen from higher ground. This, where the panorama has lead, when the clouds themselves are playing, to such incredible photos.

Going in the other direction, passing the main visitor center at Panther Junction, is the road to Rio Grande Village—only a few miles away from the Boquillas Canyon Overlook, where with some hope will be a border crossing one day.

There’s an unmanned station here to help out the little town of Boquillas which has been cut off from civilization since a bit after 9/11. The villagers have a school for the couple dozen children; but anything else to be obtained for their daily lives is an 8 hour ride to Presidio on some of the worst unpaved roads imaginable.

This leads to the Big Bend State Park. To get there take the paved River Road to Presidio, fuel up, backtrack to pick up the state park’s entrance (only 4 miles away) and then head north. There are about twenty-seven miles of unpaved roads, very doable, yet I wouldn’t recommend it for street bikes because of the various levels of difficulties.

Once there, you will know that your world again has changed. The Sauceda headquarters complex, which includes the ranger station and store, also provides some lodging with meals and Wi-Fi. The roads branching off are of various levels of difficulty. It is a must to plan your routes with the rangers always on duty.

All provide a few days of riding, so enjoy the “moments” and go for the quality, not quantity, as such spaces will always await your return.

A bit more to the west, accessible from Marfa or a branch off the state park, is Pinto Canyon—which has been beautifully maintained lately. I always ride it southbound, mostly downhill, after the best pizza in the area from Pizza Connection, or a falafel sandwich from the Food Shark. There specials and everything on the menu, while sheltered by the Farmer’s Market cover near by the train tracks, are outstanding.

Marfa has its own charm with the many art galleries present. Fort Davis has a different attraction with a state park and the remains of the Old Fort Davis. A bit further on, along beautiful curvy roads, is the McDonald Observatory.

Another few miles and you’ll see the big pools of the Balmorhea Springs, where camping is also available. Another curious attraction is Marathon, where the papercrete homes reside—walls made with a mixture of papier-mâché, cement and vermiculite, often other ingredients also.

And the list goes and on. No, there will be no regrets. Trust me.

Warning: Over-estimating your experience or under-estimating the terrain in a place like Big Bend can result in serious injury or death. Use as much information you can from the web and visitor centers before entering.

Read more ...

View the full article

[Skywagon]

Big Bend is an interesting place to visit, but really not much there.  The speed limit is 45mph so if you enjoy riding along at 45mph this is your place.  Spending hours and hours in the park on a motorcycle at 45mph was an experience I only needed once.  I live in Texas and to give you an idea of how far west it is....it's 600 miles from my home and pretty much all interstate (unless you want to ride along the Mexico border which I would highly discourage you from doing with the borders issues going on) until you get close.  The good news is the speed limits to get there is 85mph.  At 85 you will get runover.