Solved: No power to nav adapter after running over an animal?

[2015 Blue RT]

All was well & good in RT commuter land until I ran over a dead armadillo. This caused the tablet nav mount (example here) I use to snap off, but I was able to catch it before it hit the road. The plastic at the top where it locks in had broken off, so I put it in my top case & went on to work.

 

I ordered a replacement unit and when it got here, I noticed the tablet was not wirelessly charging (they make 2 models of this, and I confirmed the one I bought has the wireless charging). So far, I have:

• Tried to charge via the adapter's USB ports and nothing was happening that way either.
• I used the same USB cord connected to my PC & it charged the tablet.
• Took the adapter apart to verify it had the wireless charging coil inside, and the wires were connected.
• Checked the two terminals where it connects to the RT to learn which was 12V + and ground. It is the top two. The uppermost is +, while the second row are ground.

 

 

• Using the multi meter, I got 0 volts on the corresponding pins on the bike. Conclusion- Adapter is not getting 12V.
• Checked the 7.5 and 15A fuses under the seat with a multi meter, both are good.
• I have the MotoScan software, so I connected to it and found I had a fault for the horn (I had added a knockoff air horn a while back). I traced this to a loose ground wire and once tightened the horn functioned again. This however made no difference for getting 12V at the adapter pins. I didn't see any related faults.
• Reinstalled my old adapter & it is also not getting 12V.

I found a pinout for the GS1250, which should be similar, and it confirms the top two rows of pins are 12V + & ground:

 

I have a Haynes subscription for the manual, and am at a loss as to what this thing is called. Under the wiring diagrams, I have a choice of:

Starter circuit, Keyless ride and DME(ECU) (R1200GS shown)
DME (ECU)
CAN - BUS circuit components, Tail light, Coolant sensor
LIN - BUS circuit (R1200GS shown)
Headlight circuit (R1200GS shown)
Lighting circuit, horn and turn signals (R1200RT)
Turn signal circuit (R1200GS shown)
ABS circuit (R1200GS shown)
Heated seat circuit (R1200RT)

 

I looked each of these over, and don't see the nav adapter wiring. I'm also at a loss for how/where this gets power short of pulling the dash area apart. Everything else works, so it doesn't seem like a fuse issue.

 

Any advice is welcome.

 

EDIT- SOLVED

So after a lot of research & reading, two things are needed for power here. 

1) GPS Time in user settings must be ON. It apparently was turned off when I checked fuses, so the old adapter didn't work.

2) The adapter MUST have a small magnet inside it. I looked and my old one did, while my new one did not- although it had an opening for one. When I plugged the old one back in, it lit up like a Christmas tree! I confirmed 12V power on its wires.

 

So now I have to figure out how to remove the small magnet & install it in the new part. Faster to do that than to wait for another one from Amazon/China.

 

 

[Scotto336]

Maybe a sheet rock screw from the back side...could push the magnet out which is likely glued in place.

[Skywagon]

find a small piece of any metal and use a magnetizer on it.....maybe a small watch battery.  The picture is from Amazon, but you can buy these at most hardware stores.  I use it all the time to magnetize tools

and then demagnetize them when done....especially screw drivers.

 

 

 

[2015 Blue RT]

Thanks for the tips. I used a screwdriver as a chisel & broke the plastic around it, then pried it out. The new adapter has power, but it's not as good as the last one for wireless charging- I'm only seeing less than .5W whereas the old one was over 4W. This results in the battery discharging while in use. I'm going to try another one from Ali Express.

[2015 Blue RT]

Got the second adapter yesterday & it's doing the same thing- low power charging no matter where I put the wireless adapter. I have decided to skip the hassle of wirelsss and use a 25cm right (actually left) angle USB cable in the top USB port of the adapter. I use the bottom port of the adapter to power my glove heat controller in the winter, so by using the right angle cable this should allow me to continue use of the bottom port.