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A summer project - build your own Handy-like m/c lift.


John Ranalletta

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John Ranalletta

Really not much welding and I've got the bag from the recently deceased trailer.

 

Only change I'd make is upgrade from 1x2x1/8 HSS to 1x2x1/4 HSS to accommodate RT or GS weight.  There's a cut list on the guy's website.

 

 

 

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Really not much welding and I've got the bag from the recently deceased trailer.

 

Only change I'd make is upgrade from 1x2x1/8 HSS to 1x2x1/4 HSS to accommodate RT or GS weight.  There's a cut list on the guy's website.

 

Afternoon John

 

I didn't watch the entire video with sound but I don't see any sort of lock on that thing to lock it in any of the raised positions. With no raised position lock that thing a danger in waiting.    

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John Ranalletta

You're right. I'd add the old style sawtooth stops with drop down.  The 1200 Handy has a more efficient but more complicated safety stop system. 

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14 minutes ago, John Ranalletta said:

You're right. I'd add the old style sawtooth stops with drop down.  The 1200 Handy has a more efficient but more complicated safety stop system. 

Afternoon John

 

My Handy has a very robust locking system that holds tight & safely with loads well about the Handy's rated weight capacity.

 

I did make a slight change to the lock though as the Handy's lock  system doesn't lock at full (UP) as they left a little wiggle room so the table could be raised a little farther to allow the lock arm to flip out of engagement. I simply made a couple of flip-in filler spacers that allow my Handy to lock at the full top of travel. Just that little extra locking height makes it so much easier on my back when working on the lift. 

 

 

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John Ranalletta

Could you send a photo next time using the lift. No hurry. This project is down the list. 

 

Thanks

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John,  RK Ryder

 

I'll get you guys a picture when I get a chance. At the moment I have a project on the lift that requires the lift stay in the down position & my spacers are on the tray under it. 

 

RK Ryder, there are no extra teeth, just as couple of slide in spacers that go between the swinging lock arm crossbar & the teeth (ears) on the scissors when the lift is all the way up. 

 

Pretty simple really (I like simple & clean)  just a couple of 1" or 1- 1/8" (or something close anyhow) of square tube (maybe 3/16" wall thickness) cut off to about 3" long  that I put in my arbor press with a piece of 3/4" (or close to that) on top, then I pressed a round depression in each of them to sort of match the round crossbar on the lift lock arm. Nothing actually measured as I just picked a piece of square tubing out of my junk metal collection that was just slightly too large to slide in so when I pressed that round depression in they j-u-s-t slipped in. With that round depression they fit tight enough that they can't pop out (even if I tried) but j-u-s-t slide in & out from the side. 

 

This allows the stock all-the-way-up height to used as well as my additional height with just a flip in or probably better called slip in.   (takes less than 5 seconds per side in or out)

 

Once I let the air out the loaded table pinches those spacers in so tight that you probably couldn't drive them out with a hammer.

 

 

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John Ranalletta
1 hour ago, dirtrider said:

John,  RK Ryder

 

I'll get you guys a picture when I get a chance. At the moment I have a project on the lift that requires the lift stay in the down position & my spacers are on the tray under it. 

 

RK Ryder, there are no extra teeth, just as couple of slide in spacers that go between the swinging lock arm crossbar & the teeth (ears) on the scissors when the lift is all the way up. 

 

Pretty simple really (I like simple & clean)  just a couple of 1" or 1- 1/8" (or something close anyhow) of square tube (maybe 3/16" wall thickness) cut off to about 3" long  that I put in my arbor press with a piece of 3/4" (or close to that) on top, then I pressed a round depression in each of them to sort of match the round crossbar on the lift lock arm. Nothing actually measured as I just picked a piece of square tubing out of my junk metal collection that was just slightly too large to slide in so when I pressed that round depression in they j-u-s-t slipped in. With that round depression they fit tight enough that they can't pop out (even if I tried) but j-u-s-t slide in & out from the side. 

 

This allows the stock all-the-way-up height to used as well as my additional height with just a flip in or probably better called slip in.   (takes less than 5 seconds per side in or out)

 

Once I let the air out the loaded table pinches those spacers in so tight that you probably couldn't drive them out with a hammer.

 

 

On the air bag Handy, I was thinking about a chain across the X to allow for multiple stops w/o fabbing anything.

 

image.png.1ef759b79934fa678df190c3028c9593.png

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46 minutes ago, John Ranalletta said:

On the air bag Handy, I was thinking about a chain across the X to allow for multiple stops w/o fabbing anything.

 

 

Evening John

 

That should do the job. 

 

Just put some extra thought into how the chains will attach as that seems awfully close to your legs or knees while working so anything that sticks out might cause some issues. 

 

You could probably move the chains to across the bottom bars as that would keep them well out of your way.   

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  • 10 months later...
John Ranalletta

Work progresses on the m/c lift.  Probably over built structurally, but 1"x2" legs on the copied lift in the OP just didn't seem sturdy enough for the bigger bikes.  Welding skills are still at primitive levels.  Stick beads look like dog crap but there's enough of them to hold.

 

Bearings arrive tomorrow and the air bag (from the airlift moto trailer) should be installed so the lift should go up/down.  Lots to do but working on it makes time fly.  About $400 in it so far, mostly for custom cut steel.  I don't include tools that will live on for other projects.

 

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IMG_0575.thumb.JPG.e0cc5b7ba2a21ea89495b22b18ad8770.JPG

 

 

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John Ranalletta

Smoke 'em if you got 'em...mild, great tasting Makitas.

 

This drill carried me through 3-4 home remodels and multiple projects.  RIP.

 

 

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John, what OIL are you running in that?

I bet if you kept the air pressure up around 40 PSI that wouldn't happen...at least you would get closer to 6k miles.

When was the last time you had the Cam Timing Checked on that thing?

Maybe next time you will use Iridium plugs so it will run all the way to 100k like in a car.

Some Castrol GL5 Final Drive oil instead of that stuff from the MoPar dealer will get rid of that smoke for sure!

 

On, and on, and on...

Good luck with your lift project, I bet it turns out great, like everything you work on!

Brad

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John Ranalletta

Thanks, Brad.  Not everything turns out so great.  This ended up in the recycling bin.  Yep. It really did.

 

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9 minutes ago, John Ranalletta said:

Thanks, Brad.  Not everything turns out so great.  This ended up in the recycling bin.  Yep. It really did.

 

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It was still a cool trailer!

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John Ranalletta

Soon (probably 2 wks), I'll be testing the lift.  I want to load it up to 800lbs but need to find material.  If I had 4 friends, I would ask them to climb aboard but they're not that friendly.:)

 

I'll probably rent 800lbs of cement mix from Lowes for the test.  I thought about pails of water but that'd require two layers of 10 pails and wasting 100 gallons of water.

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John Ranalletta
29 minutes ago, Hank in WV said:

Maybe you could find a motorcycle somewhere...:3:

Not mine.  I've dropped a GS from my Handy lift years ago.  Unfortunately, I was under it, pinned by the m/c. 

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46 minutes ago, wbw6cos said:

800 lbs?   That would be some Harley weight for testing.   :classic_biggrin:

3 Harley riders ought to more than fill the bill! Were I near, I'd definitely be one of them.

If I had my Ultra Classic with me, that alone would be 901 pounds of pig to throw on.

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John Ranalletta

Baby steps....  

 

It goes up and down, but this portable compressor doesn't put out enough air to really test.  Table top height will be ca. 36" which seems high enough.

 

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John Ranalletta
On 2/8/2024 at 12:57 PM, John Ranalletta said:

Baby steps....  

 

It goes up and down, but this portable compressor doesn't put out enough air to really test.  Table top height will be ca. 36" which seems high enough.

 

IMG_0581.thumb.JPG.6b765a794ad98ecbd8823f762fbd8973.JPGIMG_0582.thumb.JPG.c3134585036d934298bd863289cdc477.JPG

 

 

The lift is essentially done except for installing the top, wheel clamp, air spring plumbing, and safety stops.  Had a can of magnesium wheel paint.  Sexy, no?  Welding still sucks.  Fun project.

 

IMG_0585.thumb.JPG.fceafbe6b90c42a2a80ea5148f4aea4a.JPGIMG_0586.thumb.JPG.9369998c552943ff91ae8bca42bda43e.JPG

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John Ranalletta
1 hour ago, John Ranalletta said:

 

 

The lift is essentially done except for installing the top, wheel clamp, air spring plumbing, and safety stops.  Had a can of magnesium wheel paint.  Sexy, no?  Welding still sucks.  Fun project.

 

IMG_0585.thumb.JPG.fceafbe6b90c42a2a80ea5148f4aea4a.JPGIMG_0586.thumb.JPG.9369998c552943ff91ae8bca42bda43e.JPG

Well, I was cleaning up the garage and, looking at the lift, I discovered I assembled it incorrectly.  Each of the rectangles has a top and bottom and I had two tops and the two bottoms at each end.  Oh, well.  I've disassembled and repositioned the frames.  Tomorrow, I'll relocate the bearings and we're all good. 

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3 hours ago, John Ranalletta said:

Welding still sucks.

My welder friend says "if you put enough dog sh1t on there anything will hold together".

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John Ranalletta
Just now, syntorz said:

My welder friend says "if you put enough dog sh1t on there anything will hold together".

That's my motto.  I judge weld quality by the pound.

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NICE John!    I scroll for a lift everyday in CL and FB marketplace, hoping to score one that gets listed.  Let me know when you start production, and I'll place my name on the wait list.  And, nice to 'see' the pristine RT covered and getting ready for riding (hoping soon!)

Dave

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John Ranalletta
46 minutes ago, DBULL said:

NICE John!    I scroll for a lift everyday in CL and FB marketplace, hoping to score one that gets listed.  Let me know when you start production, and I'll place my name on the wait list.  And, nice to 'see' the pristine RT covered and getting ready for riding (hoping soon!)

Dave

They're scarce and pricey when found.  I thought about just writing a check for a new Handy, but building this one is less expensive than psychotherapy for shut ins.:dopeslap:

 

I sold my old Handy with wings for $500 when we downsized. Ugh!

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John Ranalletta
7 hours ago, DBULL said:

NICE John!    I scroll for a lift everyday in CL and FB marketplace, hoping to score one that gets listed.  Let me know when you start production, and I'll place my name on the wait list.  And, nice to 'see' the pristine RT covered and getting ready for riding (hoping soon!)

Dave

I think a handier person than I who's a certified welder could knock these out...not a fancy, farkled up lift like the Handy, but a very servicable product.

 

My mistake took all day to resolve.  Had to cut up and weld some more than I thought.  On the right track now.

 

It wouldn't be half as hard if I were twice as smart.  Oh well...

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1 hour ago, John Ranalletta said:

 

It wouldn't be half as hard if I were twice as smart.  Oh well...

Kudos to you for tackling such a project. Same welder friend I mentioned (actually extended family) can look at a project like that and see the necessary structure and geometry *in his head*. Couple hours later he'd have it built and working, no drawings or anything. Me, I'd have to build a model (or two), measure thrice and re-cut four times, get it together two months later and still have something wrong.

But I can see computer programming solutions in my head. Same guy can't find the right-click on his mouse....

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20 hours ago, John Ranalletta said:

I sold my old Handy with wings for $500 when we downsized. Ugh!

Moved mine three times......... even when a friend kept offering to take it off my hands for cash. I swear I won't move it again, but then I think of the alternative and load it up.

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John Ranalletta

Folding the lift scissors to make room the car, I wondered if one could make the lift's top easily detachable for storage.  It's only affixed to the scissors on one end and rides free on two bearings on the other. Hmmmm...

 

IMG_0588.thumb.JPG.87c143af9b9e3fb4f7f96fd43cb00551.JPG

 

 

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With the table all the way down, you could strap the legs to the top and stand the table up for storage, like a folding table. It gets kind of heavy, but I'm assuming the top alone will be quite heavy and bulky, difficult to remove, difficult to keep reattaching to the base.

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Little by little...

 

Compressor arrives today.  Should have it plumbed later today or tomorrow.  Top & wheel clamp need attaching.  Bearing races installed.  Front deck mounting frame.....IMG_0600.thumb.JPG.267c3fcc24fb129b6320aea81eba984a.JPG

 

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12 minutes ago, MikeB60 said:

Looks good! What's the plan for a ramp?

Thanks.  Just another 30" piece matching the deck.  Needs the tabs installed, sides cut and reinforced, but that's a few days away.  Price of steel and custom bends was surprisingly low I thought.

 

 

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I'd like to come up with the best way to get the wheel clamp on/off without needing to bolt/unbolt it for storage.  I think it might be sufficient to bolster the underside of the deck with 1"x1" HSS, fixture the clamp parts on a single piece of sheet metal, weld 4" bolts on the bottom of that and just drop in the clamp assembly. We'll see.

 

I'm concerned about what I perceive are weak points.  If they fail in test, they're easily modified.

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6 minutes ago, John Ranalletta said:

I'd like to come up with the best way to get the wheel clamp on/off without needing to bolt/unbolt it for storage.  I think it might be sufficient to bolster the underside of the deck with 1"x1" HSS, fixture the clamp parts on a single piece of sheet metal, weld 4" bolts on the bottom of that and just drop in the clamp assembly. We'll see.

 

I'm concerned about what I perceive are weak points.  If they fail in test, they're easily modified.

John,

 

Maybe you could come up with something like Condor has to remove it's chock   https://www.condor-lift.com/product/pit-stop-trailer-stop-adapter-kit-part-tk-3000/  Good luck your project is looking GOOD! 

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What about a physical lock? Didn't see any. I'm talking about a way to lock the table so you can relieve pressure on the airbag. And for safety reasons (for you and the bike) too. But looking good so far:cool:.

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John Ranalletta
1 hour ago, JCtx said:

What about a physical lock? Didn't see any. I'm talking about a way to lock the table so you can relieve pressure on the airbag. And for safety reasons (for you and the bike) too. But looking good so far:cool:.

It's in the plan.  I'll try to duplicate the Handy lock.  Thanks.

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John Ranalletta
3 hours ago, JCtx said:

What about a physical lock? Didn't see any. I'm talking about a way to lock the table so you can relieve pressure on the airbag. And for safety reasons (for you and the bike) too. But looking good so far:cool:.

Handy employs a steel plate attached to the forward struts (see yellow part below).  When deployed (flipped up) springs lift it to engage a sawtooth rail on the deck's bottom.  If the bag ever failed, the plate would "lock" the struts against the deck which is bolted to the front struts.  Older Handy lifts had a larger, harder to operate safety bar that locked the upper and lower rear struts.  Same principle, but newer design is a bit more elegant and smaller.

 

image.png.2160877bc56397ac4a6736f39ce33cf1.png 

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