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The dreaded 10443 fault code


KetoSoi

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I went to fire up my RT this Morning, and it was turn'n over, but typical signs of no fuel. Grabbed my gs911, and sure enough fault code 10443.

 

Pulled the FPC off, installed my Burnsmoto bypass cable, but no good still, just turns and turns....

 

Bike has been sitting a while, so thinking the pump might be 'stuck'. I had read somewhere that guys have popped the fuel pump with a quick reverse polarity to unstick the impeller, but I'll be damned if I can find a thread on it. Anyone familiar with that procedure?

 

Thanks,

 

K

 

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11 hours ago, KetoSoi said:

I went to fire up my RT this Morning, and it was turn'n over, but typical signs of no fuel. Grabbed my gs911, and sure enough fault code 10443.

 

Pulled the FPC off, installed my Burnsmoto bypass cable, but no good still, just turns and turns....

 

Bike has been sitting a while, so thinking the pump might be 'stuck'. I had read somewhere that guys have popped the fuel pump with a quick reverse polarity to unstick the impeller, but I'll be damned if I can find a thread on it. Anyone familiar with that procedure?

 

Thanks,

 

K

 

Morning  KetoSoi

 

Can you hear the fuel pump run when you connect the jumper????? This is the first thing to look for. 

 

If not then make sure that your jumper is staying powered up.  I think the Burnsmoto bypass cable plugs into the front on-board power socket. That can be right on the edge on some 1200RT motorcycles as a by-pass cable runs the pump at full power & the on-board power socket is limited to 10 amps (it shut's itself down at anything over a 10 amp draw). I have seen a few pumps that will draw slightly over 10 amps with no FPC control.

 

As a rule the pump impeller doesn't stick on a motorcycle that has been running in the last few months but it is possible. 

 

There really isn't much for electronics on the pump side of the pump power connector so you could try simply reversing the pump 12v & low (ground) wires on your jumper cable then giving it a quick power-up (just a very quick pop of reverse power). DO NOT reverse through the FPC so make sure that is out of the circuit. 

 

If you can get the pump running then put a little 2 cycle oil in the fuel tank for a couple of tanks of fuel to lubricate the pump.

 

 

 

 

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Thanks DR, good info :)

 

No, cant hear the pump whirring :(

 

I set it up today, rigged a cable 'adapter' off the battery directly, and added a 10amp fuse for measure. It popped the fuse in about 2 seconds. So, next question is, what kind of amperage to I want to attempt at this point (or not), and fuse it accordingly. Thoughts?

 

K

 

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57 minutes ago, KetoSoi said:

Thanks DR, good info :)

 

No, cant hear the pump whirring :(

 

I set it up today, rigged a cable 'adapter' off the battery directly, and added a 10amp fuse for measure. It popped the fuse in about 2 seconds. So, next question is, what kind of amperage to I want to attempt at this point (or not), and fuse it accordingly. Thoughts?

 

K

 

Afternoon KetoSoi

 

Probably try a 15 AMP,  see if that blows, if it does then you probably have pump issues. Don't go any higher then a 15 amp but if 15 sort of works you can possibly try a 15 amp slow-blow fuse.  

 

Once the pump is running & settles down it might run on 10 amps.

 

The FPC drops the pump power as for most riding it doesn't need full pump output, then goes to full power at some conditions like wide open throttle.   

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I think the pump is done. I went to a 15 amp fuse, and it doesnt blow, I can hear a 'tick' from the fuel pump area when I hit it with voltage, but no whir/hum sound at all. Tried it again with normal polarity, pump makes no noise at all.

 

Worth a shot, but looks like the damn thing has to come out.

 

K

 

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OK, just order a Quantum replacement pump, pretty good reviews and feedback in various sources. Better than dropping a wad of cash on the whole assembly though.

 

I really hate dealing with that gasket for the assembly, but gotta get it done, lol.

 

Thanks for the assist DR :)

 

K

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