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FD pinion leak


Hadabadachada

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Hadabadachada

Replaced my original FD with a used one. Been going fine but today I look at work and see a lot of black below the boot. Shizz, just what I need.
 

im pretty sure it’s the final drive and not the transmission as when I check the oil level it is lower than what I filled it with.
I’m gonna clean it up and keep an eye on it to see how quick it’s leaking.

 

I’ve read in other threads that a pinion seal can be done at home but special tools need to be made. 
Im assuming the crown nut needs the special tool?
And hoping it’s just a couple nuts, pull the old seal out and pop in a new one?

I really don’t want to do this work, but there’s no mechanics that will do it…

might be one of the worst bikes to really pile the mileage on…

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29 minutes ago, Hadabadachada said:

Replaced my original FD with a used one. Been going fine but today I look at work and see a lot of black below the boot. Shizz, just what I need.
 

im pretty sure it’s the final drive and not the transmission as when I check the oil level it is lower than what I filled it with.
I’m gonna clean it up and keep an eye on it to see how quick it’s leaking.

 

I’ve read in other threads that a pinion seal can be done at home but special tools need to be made. 
Im assuming the crown nut needs the special tool?
And hoping it’s just a couple nuts, pull the old seal out and pop in a new one?

I really don’t want to do this work, but there’s no mechanics that will do it…

might be one of the worst bikes to really pile the mileage on…

Afternoon  Hadabadachada

 

Kind of a pain to replace the pinion seal. 

 

What type of gear oil did you use? If you used a premium synthetic gear oil then before tearing it apart you might try replacing the synthetic (if you used that) with conventional (dino) gear oil.  Conventional gear oil has more seal conditioner in it so can sometimes stop or slow pinion seal leaks. 

 

Also, make darn sure that the vent is open to atmosphere, (remove the vent cap then run a small wire through the internal venting hole)

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Hadabadachada

Shucks. I’ll have to check that vent. 
 

I use dino in the FD and synthetic in the gear box. 
 

Is there foam in there under the cap? Looks/feels like it 

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14 minutes ago, Hadabadachada said:

Shucks. I’ll have to check that vent. 
 

I use dino in the FD and synthetic in the gear box. 
 

Is there foam in there under the cap? Looks/feels like it 

Afternoon  Hadabadachada

 

That depends on what you are working on but most have a little filter under the cap. 

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Hadabadachada

Sorry, 2004 R1100S

i pull off the cap there’s a piece of foam and that’s it, I don’t see a sleeve or anything. I can’t find a pin hole or either, must be an upgraded design, but the foam is full of oil so I’m assuming it’s venting fine.

 

I took a pretty passenger on the bike last night, tightened up my rear shock, everything felt fine, but I wonder if that had anything to do with this.

I just noticed the oil today. What a shit show.

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Hadabadachada

I saw on another forum, a member mentions a 4wd adjusting socket for a Chevy works, can anyone confirm? Seems cheap enough. 
may have to give this a go. What choice do I have I guess. Aside from putting it up for sale. 
I’d assume I’m gonna need some heat. And the other forum member said it’s advised to replace the compression ring as well as the seal. 

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3 minutes ago, Hadabadachada said:

I saw on another forum, a member mentions a 4wd adjusting socket for a Chevy works, can anyone confirm? Seems cheap enough. 
may have to give this a go. What choice do I have I guess. Aside from putting it up for sale. 
I’d assume I’m gonna need some heat. And the other forum member said it’s advised to replace the compression ring as well as the seal. 

Afternoon  Hadabadachada

 

It might work (looks to be close but I haven't actually compared), I made my own tool so never tried an old GM 4wd wheel bearing tool. 

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I changed the pinion seal on my '98 RT.

GM 4wd bearing socket works just fine.

I made a jig to hold the assembly in my vise.

I bought some hylomar off Amazon to stop oil creep in the threads.

The only hard part was torqing the nut to the specs in my manual.  

 

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I changed out my bevel box pivot bearings last week, and to my dismay a 3" puddle of oil dribbled out when I cut the zip ties and removed the rubber bellows/cover twixt swing arm and bevel box. 

 

However, both gearbox and bevel box oil levels are exactly full, as they were when I changed them both a year ago. Is it possible for small amounts of oil to have seeped past one or other of the lip seals in the distant past and just sat there, until I cut the ties? The oil looked very clean. 

 

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1 hour ago, King Herald said:

I changed out my bevel box pivot bearings last week, and to my dismay a 3" puddle of oil dribbled out when I cut the zip ties and removed the rubber bellows/cover twixt swing arm and bevel box. 

 

However, both gearbox and bevel box oil levels are exactly full, as they were when I changed them both a year ago. Is it possible for small amounts of oil to have seeped past one or other of the lip seals in the distant past and just sat there, until I cut the ties? The oil looked very clean. 

 

Morning   King Herald

 

I will answer this one question on YOUR issue in this thread as it is sort of on track with the OP's question but anything further on your issue, your motorcycle, then please start your on thread.

 

A little gear oil in the bottom  rear swing arm boot is pretty normal, it is usually just seeping out of the pinion front seal. 

 

If it gets to the point of actually dripping out of the boot then you will probably have to address it.

 

If you are using synthetic gear oil then you might switch back to a conventional (dino) gear oil as most of those have better seal conditioner in them. (I have seen a number of old 1100/1150 final drive pinion seals seep/weep when using synthetic gear oil)

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  • 2 months later...
Hadabadachada

I still have a slow leak going on, gonna change the oils all round in a couple days. 
 

we have some 80-90 gear oil for lower units here at my store, I think I was going to go with the mineral high viscosity, it’s a GL-5 or whatever, maybe that’ll slow the leak.

they also make a partial synthetic.

 

 

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18 minutes ago, Hadabadachada said:

I still have a slow leak going on, gonna change the oils all round in a couple days. 
 

we have some 80-90 gear oil for lower units here at my store, I think I was going to go with the mineral high viscosity, it’s a GL-5 or whatever, maybe that’ll slow the leak.

they also make a partial synthetic.

 

 

 

 

Morning  Hadabadachada

 

As long as it is a GL-5 rated & (it does show that it the label specs) then it should work OK.  It wouldn't be my first or even second choice as a long-term final drive gear oil but might be worth a try to see if your seal seeping stops. 

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Hadabadachada

it’s just anything I find at the auto store has a Limited slip additive or whatever it is. Haven’t found one that doesn’t. 
not that these auto stores are any good, I blame that 

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12 minutes ago, Hadabadachada said:

it’s just anything I find at the auto store has a Limited slip additive or whatever it is. Haven’t found one that doesn’t. 
not that these auto stores are any good, I blame that 

Afternoon Hadabadachada

 

You might try Walmart as they usually have Valvoline 80w90 non-LS conventional gear oil.  (at least in my area)

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