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R1100RT - Neutral/Idle switch versus gear indicator switch?


SWB

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As I've mentioned in other threads, I'm preparing for a clutch job, and am down to the nitty-gritty tedium of researching parts, tools, and procedures.

 

My neutral switch has become lazy of late, so "clutch R&R" time will also include the task of replacing this switch. I've looked through two manuals and two parts fiches, and can't figure this out:

 

One manual indicates that both the neutral switch and gear position switch are mounted upon each other with the same screw, apparently in the transmission housing cover. I can locate the "Idle Switch" (p/n 61 31 2 306 202), but no gear position switch. Is there such a thing as a gear position switch for the R1100RT, and does anyone have the switch (and parts diagram number)? Maybe the manual is referring to another model (e.g. R850-R1200C's are covered).

 

If so, I'm going to replace the gear indicator switch at the same time.

 

Thanks again.

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russell_bynum

Sorry, I don't have part numbers...

 

But there are indeed two switches, stacked on top of each other in a truly Rube Goldberg fashion.

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Joe Frickin' Friday
One manual indicates that both the neutral switch and gear position switch are mounted upon each other with the same screw, apparently in the transmission housing cover. I can locate the "Idle Switch" (p/n 61 31 2 306 202), but no gear position switch. Is there such a thing as a gear position switch for the R1100RT, and does anyone have the switch (and parts diagram number)? Maybe the manual is referring to another model (e.g. R850-R1200C's are covered).

 

on my '99 RT, the neutral switch and gear position indicator switch are separate parts, but yes, they both fit onto the end of the gear selector drum shaft on the back of the gearbox. One of the switches has a thru-hole so it slips well on to the shaft, and the second switch covers the end of the shaft and seals the gearbox.

 

Sorry, don't know part #'s. Check the parts list at top of this forum?

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Thanks for the help!

 

Now, I wish the heck I knew why the gear indicator switch is twice as expensive ($64.00) as the idle switch ($31.00), but I can't see the sense in replacing one without doing the other too.

 

OOh well. bncry.gif

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Stan Walker

but I can't see the sense in replacing one without doing the other too

 

Well, the gear indicator switch almost never fails. Why replace it unless it's bad?

 

The neutral switch fails on most 11100's. My WAG is excess current for the switch contacts.

 

Stan

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Thanks for the help!

 

Now, I wish the heck I knew why the gear indicator switch is twice as expensive ($64.00) as the idle switch ($31.00), but I can't see the sense in replacing one without doing the other too.

 

OOh well. bncry.gif

The gear indicator switch is a multipoint binary switch. more contacts = more expense.

The neutral indicator switch is on or off when it works.

Gear indicator rarely fails.

Neutral indicator switch gets flaky with just a small increase in circuit resistance. (Bad circuit design!)

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russell_bynum

Neutral indicator switch gets flaky with just a small increase in circuit resistance. (Bad circuit design!)

 

And bad switch design...it should be sealed in the first place.

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Stan Walker

And bad switch design...it should be sealed in the first place

 

When I replaced mine last summer I opened up the outer plastic case and found no sign of any oil inside. The inner micro switch was dry but exhibited high resistance anyway. This leads me to the conclusion that it isn't contamination that causes the problem but arcing of the switch contacts due to excess current.

 

I'm sorry that I didn't go further and open up the micro switch itself.

 

Stan

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Thanks for the tips and information, guys. There's no way I'd know NOT to replace that second switch otherwise.

 

That's $50 I can save on my "overhaul" plan. I'm was over $500.00 on parts alone, so I dropped my clutch kit in favor of just the bolts, friction plate, and spring, plus now, the gear indicator switch.

 

Of course, I'll be one of the 1 in 1,000,000 owners whose gear indicator switch fails 3 days after I put the bike together. grin.gif But hey, it should be easier to put the bike back together the second time, so what the heck.

 

By the way, since I have (some of) you guys attention, I'll ask this question (rather than opening yet another thread):

 

Anyone know the best place to get quick-disconnect couplings? The R1150 version runs nearly $50.00 for a pair, and I've seen Motion Pro valves for about about $32.00 a set. There's probably a good reason for the price (i.e. pressurized fuel injection lines), but it's still expensive.

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Anyone know the best place to get quick-disconnect couplings? The R1150 version runs nearly $50.00 for a pair, and I've seen Motion Pro valves for about about $32.00 a set. There's probably a good reason for the price (i.e. pressurized fuel injection lines), but it's still expensive.

McCarr sells them for about $6. I'd have to look up the part number tonight though.
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Anyone know the best place to get quick-disconnect couplings? The R1150 version runs nearly $50.00 for a pair, and I've seen Motion Pro valves for about about $32.00 a set. There's probably a good reason for the price (i.e. pressurized fuel injection lines), but it's still expensive.

 

Here ya go.....

 

Here are the quick disconnects I used.....

http://www.mcmaster.com/ http://tinyurl.com/cfb39

Qty | Part Number/Description | Unit Price |Extended Price |Shipping Info

+--------+---------------------------------+---------------+---------------+--------------

2 EA 5012K672 - Acetal Quick- $6.72 EA $13.44

Disconnect Tube Coupling Socket

For 5/16" Tube ID, 1/4" Coupler,

Shut-Off Valve

 

2 EA 5012K712 - Acetal Quick- $6.61 EA $13.22

Disconnect Tube Coupling Plug

For 5/16" Tube ID, 1/4" Coupler,

Shut-Off

Merchandise Total: $26.66

 

I carry some spare O-Rings just in case. I've installed these on my K-Bike and my '96 R1100RT. The O-Rings are #11 Vitons from McMaster Carr, order some extras.

 

Mick

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russell_bynum

Anyone know the best place to get quick-disconnect couplings?

 

My advice: replace the QD's with a normal high-pressure fuel line.

 

I retrofitted my R1100RT with the QD's from the R1150RT. The result...I had to fiddle and fidget with the disconnects to make sure they were seated, I had to replace the O-rings every time they came apart, and I had two additional failure points in a critical system. (And "yes"...I have heard of those things failing on the road.)

 

And the only thing I gained was, I didn't have to use fuel line clamps to keep gas from running out when I'd remove the tank.

 

I finally got fed up and put it back to stock (no QD's) and never looked back.

 

Just my $0.02.

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Anyone know the best place to get quick-disconnect couplings?

 

My advice: replace the QD's with a normal high-pressure fuel line.

 

I retrofitted my R1100RT with the QD's from the R1150RT. The result...I had to fiddle and fidget with the disconnects to make sure they were seated, I had to replace the O-rings every time they came apart, and I had two additional failure points in a critical system. (And "yes"...I have heard of those things failing on the road.)

 

And the only thing I gained was, I didn't have to use fuel line clamps to keep gas from running out when I'd remove the tank.

 

I finally got fed up and put it back to stock (no QD's) and never looked back.

 

Just my $0.02.

 

I'll take that advice to heart, Russell. As I've posted several other times, my RTP came complete with chewed up and crushed fuel regulator fuel lines from some ham-handed service tech ("it's only been serviced by BMW authorized techs"). I've worked with them to try and open them, but will have to replace the fuel regulator during the clutch and spline lube job. So the quick-disconnects were high on my list, to prevent the same thing from happening again.

 

However, I've had the fuel tank off a half dozen times since then, and found that only reason the tank fuel hoses stick to the fuel regulator lines is when the clamps fail to fully release, or if they are perhaps too small to being with. I replaced all the clamps, and haven't had a problem getting the fuel line off since. I use a couple of hemostat's to clamp the lines, and it's all good. thumbsup.gif

 

So, I'll drop this item from my "shopping list". I agree with you; there's nothing worse than to have a leaking fuel hose hidden under a plastic fairing, unless maybe it's a leaking brake line. grin.gif

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