Connect the Dots Ride- Colorado June 27-July 3

[Paddler]

So named because we tried to ride along roads that had dots, signifying a scenic route. Of course, the dots are only visible on the paper maps, you’re on your own with the online versions.  Some of us still appreciate the big picture paper maps provide.  Just two of us trip, me on a 2020 R1250RS, my buddy, Tom, on my 1998 R1100R 75th Anniversary Edition roadster. On our trip last year to the California Redwoods we had flats on both rear tires, both repaired with rope plugs.  The RS tire had a little more wear so I replaced it. The 1998 rear had a bit more tread so I thought we'd ride it as is. After all, it made it back from California without problems and was still holding air pressure here.  Since we were going to Vernal to visit the Dinosaur National Monument, we started the trip with a visit to the Natural History Museum of Utah here in SLC on Sunday. Wonderful architecture, world class museum and very informative.

 

We left Holladay on Monday morning, June 27, heading for Vernal. We decided to take the back way, going over Wolf Creek Pass on Highway 35 and dropping into Duchesne, then on to Vernal. We visited the Utah Field House Natural History Museum State Park that afternoon, then a quick ride up to the Red Canyon overlook.  It’s a very pleasant ride, a great road and nice views of the Gorge.

Red Canyon Overlook

 

The next morning we continued east on Hwy 40, stopping off at the Dinosaur National Monument Quarry.  I have pictures from many years ago of my kids sitting in the recess shown in the second photo, K64 for the photographers here. At that time you could climb all over the wall, which they did.

 

Dinosaur National Monument Quarry

 

Then we continued on Hwy 40 through Steamboat Springs and spent the night in Grand Lake, which is just outside the west entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park. We had ridden near it a couple of years ago but did not go through the park, so I wanted to make sure this time. My son and I rode through it about 22 years ago en route to the Black Hills, but my memory of that trip is a bit fuzzy.

Highway 40 to Steamboat

 

The park has a timed entry permit program now, but if you arrive before 9:00am or after 3:00pm, you don't need to worry about making a reservation.  You can just ride right in, which we did the following morning.  The Trail Ridge Road takes you past the headwaters of the Colorado River, up over the Trail Ridge summit. The summit is at 12,193’ elevation, and the views are amazing.  The Alpine Visitors Center, at 11796’ elevation, is the highest in the nation.

Colorado River Headwaters

Trail Ridge Road Summit

 

We continued on to Leadville, which I have read about many times over the years but had never seen.  Nice little town at 10,151' elevation.  If you haven't read about the town, its history is very interesting.  Horace Tabor, who built the opera house, was once one of the richest men in the country.  He left his wife of 25 years to marry Baby Doe, who was about half his age.  When the price of silver plummeted during the Panic of 1893 and the repeal of the Sherman Silver Purchase Act, they lost everything.  He died destitute. Baby Doe spent the last 35 years of her life wandering the streets, also penniless.  

 

We stayed at the Delaware Hotel, built in 1886 by a man who hailed from, you guessed it, Delaware.  It's currently undergoing renovation, and is a fairly typical Victorian-era hotel.  We met the new owner, David Chrisman, who is a great guy.  Be sure to tell him we said hello if you visit.

 

The next day we headed south, taking Hwy 82 west over Independence Pass.   At 12,095 feet, it's the highest paved road that crosses the Continental Divide.  Again, amazing road and vistas, but I repeat myself.  Love the dotted roads.

 

 

IWe dropped down through Aspen, which is filled with ultra-high-end shops and crowded with tourists.  Definitely not my cup of tea.  Heading west we ran into rain again, and after stopping in at the Brass Anvil in Carbondale for a bowl of soup, we tried to head south.  Our waitress highly recommended we go to Marble for the night.  That turned out to be a not great idea, as there's not much back up there in the holler.  Kinda reminded me of "Justified".  We ended up backtracking to Carbondale, with a "Subway and a Sixpack" dinner.

 

The next day was one of the best riding days we've ever had.  We headed down through Paonia, which is the site of the "Top of the Rockies" BMW rally.  This year is the 50th Annual, July 21-24.  Then we headed south and east on Hwy 92 along the flanks of the Gunnison Plateau/National Forest, which is another great road.  Rain and hail again, we huddled under the roof of the picnic area at Hermits Rest to let the worst pass.

South from Carbondale

Hermits Rest, Rain and Hail

 

The road skirts along the north side of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison and is a delight.

 

Black Canyon of the Gunnison

Then it was Hwy 50 down into Montrose.  Heading south out of town I'll admit to some trepidation looking ahead into the monsoon.  I had to keep reminding myself to relax my shoulders and unclench my teeth during the ride up through Ouray and into Silverton.

  

 

But the sky cleared up there, and it was beautiful.  We stopped for a bowl of chili at the Handlebars restaurant and saloon, which is an entertaining stopover.

Handlebars Food & Saloon

Silverton, CO

 

We topped Molas Pass a bit late for photos, but the ride down into Durango over the Million Dollar Highway was smooth on dry pavement.  Dotted roads.  The next morning, July 2, we headed west to Dolores, then north on Hwy 145 up through Telluride.  Along the way we stopped at a tiny old mining town for a soft drink, Rico, which also has an interesting history.  Something about a hydrochloric acid plant, a forced closure of the plant, a shootout, etc.

Rico, CO  

 

I recommend one skip going into Telluride, just another ski resort/tourist town.  We took Hwy 46 west over to the La Sal junction. I remember that road was absolutely great a couple of years ago, just a blast of not-too-technical twisties, sweepers, etc.  However, this year the Colorado side seemed bumpier.  The Utah side was much, much better.  Then on into Moab, no dots but still interesting geology.

 

Hwy 46, east of La Sal Junction 

 

The final day, July 3, we headed home.  We took Hwy 191 out of Helper to avoid getting onto I-15 at Spanish Fork.  I've never ridden Hwy 191 on a motorcycle, it was a very nice surprise. I rode up to the summit on a spirited fashion, which had me grinning from ear to ear.  Then home that afternoon.

Hwy 191, over the summit 

 

Just a quick summary.  First, the R1100R performed flawlessly and kept pace just fine.  It may be just a bit more comfortable for all-day rides, not bad for a 22-year-old motorcycle.  Also, the rope plug held up no problem.  Second, the RS is a helluva sport touring bike, way better bike than I am a rider.  I averaged 60MPG overall, and the odometer seems highly accurate, whereas the one on the R appears to be about 7.4% optimistic.

 

The trip was 1643 miles overall, the vast majority on secondary roads.  Hard to imagine a better tour through the Rockies.  

[roadscholar]

Great ride tale and excellent photos, thanks for posting. One small correction (and easy to confuse) Hwy 92 runs from Paonia thru Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Been thru Leadville many times but never stopped to take in the history, that was interesting. And you're right about Telluride, it's become Aspen of the westslope, way too much foo-foo but maybe worth a quick ride thru to imagine what it was like 150 years ago. I was there once in the early 70's before the boom, just a sleepy little town trying to resurrect itself from the mining days, population maybe a couple hundred. The ski slope transformed it.

 

I know they weren't going your direction although you were close, Hwy 141 in Co and 95 in Utah, both extraordinary if you haven't seen them. And the R1100R, what a great little touring bike, had one just like it and in '01 took the scenic routes from Albuquerque to Redmond, Or. and back.

 

 

 

[Paddler]

Thanks, Bill, I made the correction.

[LBump]

 

Red Canyon Overlook

 

 

Thanks for the ride along! 

Ride reports like this make me want to beeline to Colorado.

Wonderful photographs, esp. Red Canyon Overlook. 

[TEWKS]

Some big time awesomeness in all that up there! ^  

[roadscholar]

6 hours ago, TEWKS said:

Some big time awesomeness in all that up there! ^  

 

Hope Paddler doesn't mind but I couldn't help remembering the time we rode thru Telluride after traversing Black Bear then looking for the road that would get us back over Imogene.

 

https://waybill.smugmug.com/Colorado-July-16-videos/i-wb2fTZL/A