Replacing Left Switch Issue

[Rubdiver2]

Hello from Sweden,

 

the actuators on my old switch started giving up, no horn, no left/right blinker stop (could be stopped by pressing the warning light button!) high beam not working, so replaced the whole combo with a expensive new one.

 

However, after reconnecting the cables (after cleaning the connectors) to the new switch, the windshield motor will only go all the way up or all the way down. It does not stop in the position where you want it. Intermittently, the warning lights come on immediately after turning the key ( or not) but pressing the warning light button after this, they will not go back on or if they are on, they will not turn off. 

 

I her a faint, regular "beep" with about a second interval in between once the electrics are turned on.

 

The bike is a 2010 RT-P and does not have cruise control.

 

I am puzzled.

 

Anyone having an idea what might be going on here?

 

Best wishes,

 

Felix

[dirtrider]

2 hours ago, Rubdiver2 said:

Hello from Sweden,

 

the actuators on my old switch started giving up, no horn, no left/right blinker stop (could be stopped by pressing the warning light button!) high beam not working, so replaced the whole combo with a expensive new one.

 

However, after reconnecting the cables (after cleaning the connectors) to the new switch, the windshield motor will only go all the way up or all the way down. It does not stop in the position where you want it. Intermittently, the warning lights come on immediately after turning the key ( or not) but pressing the warning light button after this, they will not go back on or if they are on, they will not turn off. 

 

I her a faint, regular "beep" with about a second interval in between once the electrics are turned on.

 

The bike is a 2010 RT-P and does not have cruise control.

 

I am puzzled.

 

Anyone having an idea what might be going on here?

 

Best wishes,

 

Felix

Morning Felix

 

This is going to be difficult to diagnose over the internet as it might take some testing with a meter & possibly even take a known-good new switch to use as a test switch.

 

It sort of sounds like you got a defective switch but that is just a possibility. 

 

Are you SURE that ALL the connectors are FULLY plugged in with no possibility of a bent terminal pin?

 

The very first thing that I would try is a battery disconnect for about 1 hour, then a re-connect then see what your new switch acts like. (I doubt that will help but it is an easy first step)

 

You might also put the old switch back in (re-connect it) to see if it goes back to acting EXACTLY like it did before you replaced it (this will give you a fresh starting point & a fresh reference point). 

 

Did your new switch look brand new (no signs of being installed before)? Some dealers will use a new switch as a test switch then put it back in the original box, then eventually sell it. 

 

 

[Rubdiver2]

Thank you for your input!

 

I will start with reconnecting the old switch anyway as I have a dentist appointment later in the day and no car at the moment. I doubt it is a pin problem.

 

However, spoke to the BMW dealership earlier in order to talk to a mechanic and of course they (surprise, surprise) have to take the bike in by appointment and probably have to "reset" the switch in order for it to work.

 

Unfortunately, I doubt I can fix this myself in any case so have to go those 70 miles to the dealership, sigh.

 

Thanks again for your help.

 

Felix

 

 

 

 

[Rubdiver2]

 

Plugged the old switch back in, worked just as usual so the pins are okay. 

 

..and the war with the electrics goes on! An old issue also popped up later.

 

Drove off to my appointment just to afterwards find a bike not wanting to start! No self-diagnosis running, only the "N" showing up in the display but nothing else happening. Had this issue exactly a year ago, had the bike towed but the mechanic finding nothing wrong and I picked it up and it has been driving like a charm ever since until today. I put it down to the very hot weather we had at the time doing "something" to the electrics. 

 

However, I surprisingly got it running again after shifting gears up and down a bit, also working the support leg and suddenly it worked! So perhaps the sensor down there is causing the issue, not related to the switch issue though. I live at the end of a long forest gravel road, drive the bike in all sorts of conditions, so perhaps dirt is causing the issue. But what exactly and where to check?

 

 

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, Rubdiver2 said:

 

Plugged the old switch back in, worked just as usual so the pins are okay. 

 

..and the war with the electrics goes on! An old issue also popped up later.

 

Drove off to my appointment just to afterwards find a bike not wanting to start! No self-diagnosis running, only the "N" showing up in the display but nothing else happening. Had this issue exactly a year ago, had the bike towed but the mechanic finding nothing wrong and I picked it up and it has been driving like a charm ever since until today. I put it down to the very hot weather we had at the time doing "something" to the electrics. 

 

However, I surprisingly got it running again after shifting gears up and down a bit, also working the support leg and suddenly it worked! So perhaps the sensor down there is causing the issue, not related to the switch issue though. I live at the end of a long forest gravel road, drive the bike in all sorts of conditions, so perhaps dirt is causing the issue. But what exactly and where to check?

 

 

Morning Felix

 

Once it begins starting OK again then it will be difficult to diagnose. 

 

You need to do your diagnostics when it won't start.

 

Does it start when in gear & the clutch lever pulled in (this will tell you if the clutch switch is working).

 

Also, (with it now starting OK), with engine running & transmission in gear put the side stand down to see if the engine quits. 

 

A GS-911 is a great tool to allow you to check transmission switch operation, clutch switch / switch-checksum operation, & to also check side stand switch operation. 

 

Next time it won't start first thing to try is dumping a very cold bottle of water on the right hand handlebar switch assembly in the start button area (if it then starts you probably have a switch assembly going bad)  

 

Is there any chance that you are getting an "EWS" showing on the dash when it won't start? If so then that points to the key not registering correctly with the  immobilizer system. 

 

 

[Rubdiver2]

Just and update on my endevours with the 1200.

 

It started and drove just fine for a couple of days, then left me hanging after a visit to the grocery store. I had it towed to the mechanic, where I already had an appointment the following week. Busy as they are over summer, they took it in and worked on it when they could spare the time over the course of a month and fitted with me working offshore and picking it up on my way home.

 

The issue with the left handlebar was that the pins simply had corrosion issues and my cleaning was not good enough or perhaps in the wrong place. The starting issue turned out to be a right handlebar problem, so that was replaced as well. It had nothing to do with the micro switch at the support leg, as I initially suspected. Total cost for the repairs was 450 USD, which was at least a lot less than I had feared. 

 

Drove straight from the workshop to the DMV and it went through without major problems, just the low beam being too low and the adjusting knob not working at all! I am sure there are some instructions for this fix somewhere here.

 

At least with all the  heavy luggage I am normally carrying, the beam would be just right, heh!

 

Thanks for your kind help, guys.

 

Felix