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Changed fuel filter, bike won't start. Help!


Smoky

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I changed my fuel filter today. Bike won't start.

 

I can hear the fuel pump pressure up. I pulled an injector, and it's squirting gas not liquid. Just a little sprit of gas, barely enough to wet your finger.

 

I marked the hoses so they wouldn't get mixed up, this is the second filter I have done, last one was done about 35,000 km. ago, no starting problems then.

 

This is a NAPA filter, # 3032.

 

I also changed the alternator belt. Could this have any effect? I pulled the cover, and it appears to be turning fine.

 

I was careful to flag the hoses, and made sure the filter was in the right direction.

 

What did I do wrong here??

 

TIA,

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By won't start I assume you mean it will crank OK but won't fire (this is how you were able to test your injectors)?

 

Check the right side throttle cable. Chances are the ferruled end is hung up out of its seat right where it runs into the bracket and on to the right throttle body. Very easy to pull it out when you are moving the fuel tank around as the fuel lines run behind the throttle cable.

 

Happened to me once before and drove me absolutely NUTS before I found it was such a simple problem. Just pop the cable back in the socket and the engine will fire right up.

 

Derek

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Derek,

 

Thanks for the info, but that's not it, cables are firmly in their place.

 

Yes, the bike turns over, but no starty!

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ShovelStrokeEd

Fuel filter installed backwards?

 

There is an arrow on it but it is an easy mistake to make, DAMHIK. Flow direction is pump>filter>fuel rail>regulator>return.

 

A second possiblity is that you mixed the output and return lines.

 

Either way, I'd pull the tank and recheck your work.

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I changed the alternator belt by pulling the bottom pulley, relaxing the tension on the alternator, put the bottom pulley back on, with new belt in place, used a pry bar to get belt tension, and tightened the three nuts for belt tension.

 

Does the bottom pulley have an up or down? I know the hall sensors are in there, could I have the timing screwed up?

 

I'm getting pulses at the injector, but just a little mist, no fuel. But I'll bet if it starts like this I'll get great mileage!! clap.gif

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ShovelStrokeEd

The wheel for the pulse generator lies behind the crank pulley and is keyed to the crankshaft. It is a steel stamping and it is possible that you put it on incorrectly but, the injectors should still squirt if they are getting fuel and pulsing.

690469-Picture2.png.3bef878275e9a4e9199b2e064e83d680.png

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Ed,

 

I pulled the lower pulley, didn't touch the part underneath it. I cleaned up the pulley, and put it back, it wasn't keyed. Big bolt and washer holding it.

 

Just pulled the filter again, all hoses are tight, filter is in right way.

 

Same problem. No go. confused.gif

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Smoky,

Pull the supply hose off at one of the injectors, point it into a container and turn the key on. You should see a very good stream of fuel. You can turn the key on/off/on/off to repeat the initial fuel pump run signal. If you don't get fuel, you have a problem.

I just wonder if you have a big air pocket in the supply line and need to run some fuel through it. I know my Diesel HATES having air in the fuel lines. frown.gif

 

Mick

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Mick,

 

Tried that, got a huge gush of fuel.

 

Can't the damn hose back on the injector, but I'll look for a bigger hammer. wink.gif

 

So I got fuel to injectors, only a light injector spray. Cranked her over a bunch, got a big backfire. But no go.

 

Got it on the battery charger now, she's starting to crank slow.

 

confused.gifconfused.gifconfused.gif

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Bike is running clap.gifclap.gifclap.gif

 

Bottom pulley wasn't aligned right. Put it on square with marks. Bike fired up without the belt, runs fine.

 

Just going to button it up now.

 

Thanks for all the help. I have a much better understanding of how it all works.

 

Pulled a little hair out though!!

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ShovelStrokeEd

Mick,

There is no supply line. The input to the pump is in the fuel tank and submerged in fuel. Once the engine is cranking and pulses get to the Motronic, the fuel pump should run more or less continuosly.

 

Smokey,

It is not a key, per se. It is a dowel pin stickiing out of a flange on the crankshaft. The dowel doesn't protrude very far and engages a hole in the face of the pulse generator can. Your description of a big backfire points to ignition timing being off. I would pull that cover and remove the pulley again.

 

Those fuel lines can be a bear to stick back on. A little light grease such as Vasaline might help.

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Paul Mihalka

I'm glad it's fixed and running. Note: To replace the alternator belt I don't pull off any pulley. Just loosening the alternator I get enough slack to take off the old belt and mount the new one.

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Mick,

 

Tried that, got a huge gush of fuel.

 

Can't the damn hose back on the injector, but I'll look for a bigger hammer. wink.gif

 

So I got fuel to injectors, only a light injector spray. Cranked her over a bunch, got a big backfire. But no go.

 

Got it on the battery charger now, she's starting to crank slow.

 

confused.gifconfused.gifconfused.gif

 

You do not have an air lock. It seems like your injectors may be fouled. Remove them and soak then in Carb cleaber or Techron. Blow off the ends and reinstall. If you have a timing light, check ignition timing while turning over the engine. Also, did you remove the battery of disconnect it? If so, reset the Motronic.

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Mick,

There is no supply line. The input to the pump is in the fuel tank and submerged in fuel. Once the engine is cranking and pulses get to the Motronic, the fuel pump should run more or less continuosly.

 

Ed.

There IS a supply line, it is the pressurized line leading to the injectors. It SUPPLIES the injectors with fuel. confused.gifconfused.gifconfused.gifconfused.gif

 

 

Smoky,

Did you go back in there and locktite the timing cup before replacing the lower pulley? Tell us again WHY you removed that lower pulley?

 

dopeslap.gifdopeslap.gifdopeslap.gif

 

Mick

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ShovelStrokeEd

Mick,

The supply line would be a line that feeds the pump. The output side is really nothing more than the fuel manifold in this case. It cannot maintain an air lock such as your diesel gets. The fuel pressure regulator will bypass any air back to the tank through the return line. It is an entirely different system.

 

As to the pulse generator ring, it is held in place by pressure from the pulley and indexes on a dowel pin, Loctite would not help.

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I read a post about how to hold the pulley so you can remove the bolt. Put it in gear and hold the rear brake. So I thought that will make it come off easy. And it did.

 

With the pulley removed, the belt just fell off. Then I figured out how to adjust the Alt, and I cleaned up the pulley, didn't see anything to line up, so just bolted it back on.

 

Only later, with my starting problem. Did I again remove the pulley, take a harder look, and saw where it must line up on the end of the crank. But there is no keyway, and no dowel pin, but it clearly lines with with a notch in the rear of the crank, and a corresponding notch in the pulley, but they don't index together, but two notches line up.

 

I'm riding a 2001 R1100RT.

 

I just got back from a ride. She's running sweet.

 

Leaving at 7am to join the BMW breakfast gang for a 10am breaky down the valley. Ride down won't be anthing special, but there are interesting ways to get home.

 

Thanks again for all the imput, much appreciated.

 

clap.gifclap.gifclap.gif

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Eckhard Grohe

Assembled gurus!!!

 

Wouldn't all of this work require a check of the timing now???

 

Or is there something else other than that cup that controls the timing of that electrifying moment that lights the fire in them ther cylinders. grin.gifconfused.gif

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ShovelStrokeEd

Hmmmm,

As long as the mounting plate has not been disturbed, timing should remain the same.

 

Sooner or later, Smokey will find the key and install it again. 2 square holes of the same size, one in the shaft and one in the ring spell keyway to me. I suspect the crankshaft pulley has a keyway as well and the key got pushed back or pulled out with the pulley and subsequently fell on the ground or inside the alternator belt area.

 

It makes no sense to me that BMW would design the ring to just be held in place by pressure from the alternator drive pulley nor would they allow a pulley that has to transmit up to 1 HP to only be retained by the clamping force of a single bolt.

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Mick,

The supply line would be a line that feeds the pump. The output side is really nothing more than the fuel manifold in this case. It cannot maintain an air lock such as your diesel gets. The fuel pressure regulator will bypass any air back to the tank through the return line. It is an entirely different system.

 

As to the pulse generator ring, it is held in place by pressure from the pulley and indexes on a dowel pin, Loctite would not help.

 

Yeh I forgot about the bypass, that would be nice on my Cummins.:)

 

As for the Loctite, it IS specified. See here:

http://www.nmpcs.com/r11r/v-belt.pdf But it will probably be fine without it for quite a while. The Timing Rotor has no load on it at all.

 

Mick

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I agree, Loctite 242 should be used on the bolt.

 

You're close......the timing rotor gets loctite between it and the pulley. The bolt goes in dry, 50Nm. smile.gif

690905-Pulley.jpg

 

Mick

690905-Pulley.jpg.448fe7e1d16887f66b4c164bedcfcf08.jpg

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But there is no keyway, and no dowel pin, but it clearly lines with with a notch in the rear of the crank, and a corresponding notch in the pulley, but they don't index together, but two notches line up.

 

I'm riding a 2001 R1100RT.

 

 

 

It makes no sense to me that BMW would design the ring to just be held in place by pressure from the alternator drive pulley nor would they allow a pulley that has to transmit up to 1 HP to only be retained by the clamping force of a single bolt.

 

 

 

 

 

The pulley on mine has a thin metal tang that is part of the pulley.Its bent in slightly to catch the slot in the crank.I suspect Smokeys is either bent straight or broken off from tightening in the wrong position.

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Oh crap! Now I'm worried. Better check that out.

 

I rode 600 km. today, bikes running fine, had a great time.

 

Think I better have a peek in there.

 

Thanks,

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Today I pulled the cover off the alternator assembly. Loosened the belt, pulled the lower pulley.

 

It has a tab, now pushed flush with the pulley, that is supposed to lock in the recess in the crank end.

 

It probobly got squished flat, when I removed the lower pulley with first removing the belt or relieving the tension. My bad frown.gif

 

I pried it up, it fits nicely, re-torqued the bolt, put the belt on, and re-assembled.

 

Working fine, and no future worries.

 

Thanks for all the imput, and timely assistance. thumbsup.gif

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