Final Drive leak at START

[Lowndes]

1999 R1100S, only 26K, at the evening before START in Blairsville last week, this happened in the motel parking lot:

 

 

We checked the bearings by push/pulling the wheel at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock and listenling and feeling the bearings while rotating the wheel.  Everything was as solid as could be, sounded and felt normal, zero play.  Then we pulled the wheel, cleaned up everything with paper towels, inspected the seal and vent.  A new seal was installed about 4K ago. It looked perfect and did not appear to be leaking.  The plastic cap on the vent was free to rotate but had no up/down play.  No cracks were noticed in the FD.  We pulled the drain plug and inspected the magnet with only a tiny bit of fuzz and one very tiny (< 1mm) chunk.  We refilled the FD with 90wt and spun the hub with the engine in gears 1, 2, 3.  No leaks were noticed, no noises, no unusual vibration.  We drained the oil again and refilled with exactly 180cc of  90wt.  

 

The next morning we started riding cautiously watching the wheel.  After 50 or so miles we noticed a very small oilstreak from the center lugbolt hole.  Everything felt and sounded normal.  At lunch I parked the bike on the side stand and very quickly had the same oil leak as in the picture above.  We cleaned it up and continued riding.  Every time we stopped and I parked it on the side stand it did the same thing.  I started parking on the centerstand and the leak temporarily stopped, or maybe just postponed.  We replaced the leaked oil with new, not wanting to run too low.  This continued until I got home Sunday where it did the same thing again.

 

Looking a little closer (see last pic) the leaked oil is coming from the center lug hole and you can see the FD seal between the spokes (arrow).  There is no oil on the seal side of the wheel, only the left side and coming from the lug hole.  The FD seal is not leaking.  Taking off the wheel, there is a hemispherical hollow within the FD a little smaller than a tennis ball.  This is where the oil is coming from when I'm riding or stopped.  It seems to be leaking into the hollow while riding, then pouring out when I stop and lean it on the side stand.  How does the oil get from the ring and pinion into this hollow??  Is there a seal behind the bright ring with the two countersunk hex screws (last pic) ??  The parts diagrams don't help much.  

 

My thought is to remove the wheel (to see everything better), remove the the fill plug, put some air pressure inside the FD to make sure the vent is venting and possibly see where any leaks are comimg from elsewhere.

 

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

Lowndes

 

 

This pic was the first sign of the leak we noticed and after a brief stop at the front desk to check in, then riding 20-30 yards to the room.  I assume the oil streaks going up are from the front desk stop and maybe other stops as well.  The dark oil going straight down from the center lugbolt hole is from the last stop at the room where we first noticed this.

 

 

NOTE: This is NOT my FD, just one on eBay to show the void where the oil appears to be coming from on my FD.  My brake disc is mounted on the wheel:

[dirtrider]

Morning Lowndes

 

That could be, probably is, a leak at the pressed together spool/hub. I have seen a few leak there over the years. 

 

See the red arrows in picture below. See that gap just above the red arrows, that is the press-fit interface. 

 

If yours  is leaking there then could be a difficult repair. 

 

[Lowndes]

THANK YOU, DIRTRIDER!!

 

Once again, DIRTRIDER has the depth of knowledge and experience to diagnose almost any issue with a BMW motorcycle (with enough information from us mortals), AND is gracious and patient enough to share his vast expertise with all of us.  

 

I told BSA Bill in the parking lot the oil had to be leaking from that joint; It's the only possible explanation.  

 

One last question:  is the small outboard tapered wheel bearing mounted on this pressed-on portion of the hub??  (I can't envision how it couldn't be)

 

If so, the leak could announce a structural crack or failure and make a repair very problematic.  

 

I'll do the pressure test and come back with the results.

 

THANKS, AGAIN, DIRTRIDER!!

 

 

[dirtrider]

16 minutes ago, Lowndes said:

THANK YOU, DIRTRIDER!!

 

Once again, DIRTRIDER has the depth of knowledge and experience to diagnose almost any issue with a BMW motorcycle (with enough information from us mortals), AND is gracious and patient enough to share his vast expertise with all of us.  

 

I told BSA Bill in the parking lot the oil had to be leaking from that joint; It's the only possible explanation.  

 

One last question:  is the small outboard tapered wheel bearing mounted on this pressed-on portion of the hub??  (I can't envision how it couldn't be)

 

If so, the leak could announce a structural crack or failure and make a repair very problematic.  

 

I'll do the pressure test and come back with the results.

 

THANKS, AGAIN, DIRTRIDER!!

 

 

Afternoon  Lowndes

 

One last question:  is the small outboard tapered wheel bearing mounted on this pressed-on portion of the hub??  (I can't envision how it couldn't be)-- I'm pretty sure it is but I haven't ever pressed one apart to tell for sure. Once they start leaking at the joint I don't trust the press-fit integrity so I replace the final drive or buy another drive with a damaged outer housing then swap the spool, ring gear, & pinion gear over.  (maybe not so easy with an S bike).

 

You might look into the (cleaned) wheel lug-bolt holes (red arrows below) in the hub, or into the rotor attachment holes to see if there are any witness marks from too-long bolts (or lug bolts with no wheel)  being  run all the way in at one time. I t-h-i-n-k they can push the spool parts apart (at least it looks to me like they could anyhow).

 

I have only seen a few of these leak at that press-fit juncture so I don't have a lot of experience with trying to repair them.   

 

 

 

[dirtrider]

Afternoon Lowndes

 

If you trust that the spool is still pressed together properly & it is JUST leaking then then you might be able to press a 50mm ( 1.9685")  cup type freeze plug into the outer spool opening. Use some red Loctite as a sealer/retainer. That should hold the gear oil in (inner cavity would still eventually fill with gear oil). So you might want to put a plastic ball or some type of hollow-center filler in the spool cavity first.

 

I don't know if they (spool open end)  are all the same (or all the same diameter)  but I was going to try a 50mm cup freeze plug on an 1100RT back about 20 years ago (that one mike'd just under 50 mm). I never did use the freeze plug method as it wasn't my motorcycle so I didn't want to chance any problems with further separation.  

 

I wasn't sure if I could press a 50mm plug in or if I would have had  to sand/machine the OD of the freeze plug a little to get it to fit.  50mm would have been a pretty tight fit in the final drive spool that I was working with so I don't know if I would have had to sand it on it's OD or chuck it in my lathe & turn it down slightly to get it to fit. 

 

 

 

[Lowndes]

THANKS, Dirtrider.

 

A freeze plug would have to recess from the face to prevent interference with the friction interface between the wheel and hub face, plus, only feasable if there are no cracks in anything.  No wobble in the wheel so that may be possible.

 

If there is a crack in the wall of the aluminum cup with the outboard bearing, that would be the end of this FD.  Anton in Charlottesville might have a fix or ideas.  

 

Can't find another 33/12 FD anywhere.  I'm on the wait list at BBY.  Even the complete swingarms available (sometimes cheaper than the separate FD) don't have a 33/12 FD.  If a lugbolt has pushed thru, that might be fixable, depending.  But that does make sense to me with all the symptoms.

 

I'll post what I find this evening.

 

THANK YOU, SIR!!

[dirtrider]

Afternoon  Lowndes

 

You might try E-Bay again__    https://www.ebay.com/itm/353685896057?hash=item5259527b79:g:QcUAAOSwZrthScX9

 

Unfortunately this one needs to come from Germany.

 

Or this one______        https://www.ebay.com/itm/284539219359?hash=item423fdbed9f:g:k0QAAOSwhJdhm~v2

 

More___       https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=bmw+1100S+final+drive&_sacat=0

[Lowndes]

Found this pic on line.  It looks to be an aluminum spacer/adapter (above the arrow in the pic below) between the crown gear disc and the outboard "Taperd roller bearing" that also has the "cup" or "hollow" seen in Dirtrider's two pics above.  There looks to be another piece (below the arrow below) possibly steel  and not visible from the hub, that the tapered rolled bearing is mounted on. 

 

I may have to remove the crown gear and take a look.  Outside cleaning and inspection, then air test, first, tho.

 

[dirtrider]

Afternoon  Lowndes

 

On the air test, just keep in mind that it might only leak when hot & expanded. 

[dirtrider]

20 minutes ago, Lowndes said:

Found this pic on line.  It looks to be an aluminum spacer/adapter (above the arrow in the pic below) between the crown gear disc and the outboard "Taperd roller bearing" that also has the "cup" or "hollow" seen in Dirtrider's two pics above.  There looks to be another piece (below the arrow below) possibly steel  and not visible from the hub, that the tapered rolled bearing is mounted on. 

 

I may have to remove the crown gear and take a look.  Outside cleaning and inspection, then air test, first, tho.

 

Afternoon  Lowndes

 

That small bearing side is (looks to be anyhow)  pressed on, or pressed in, but if you look on the inside  (from the ring gear side) there is no parting line on the inside (at least on the 1100  spool/ring I have handy here). So that press fit of the small bearing end looks like it cannot leak anything into the spool cavity.

[Lowndes]

Agreed.  No possible leak there, short of a crack.

 

Got it cleaned and don't see anything out of place or cracks.

 

Removed the vent cap, it's working and clear.

 

Applied air at the fill hole and heard leaking coming from "the hole" (hub center).  However there is still 1-2 lbs of air inside the FD when I remove the airgun or thumb.  I also saw a tiny bit of vapor coming out of that area. Not good.

 

Looking in the threaded holes (4 lugbolt holes, 2 smaller threaded holes),  I can clearly see the machined end face of the pressed-on aluminum cup/spacer/outboard-bearing-holder.  Also there is a gap - see arrow.  No problem. 

 

Also, there is zero evidence, marks, indications that any lugbolts have ever contacted the face of the aluminum cup.  Good. 

 

Also, I cannot detect with a bent wire any gap between the aluminum and steel at the bottom of the holes (the aluminum cup was pressed home and remains).  Good.

 

  

 

 

 

All this points to a gap between the aluminum "cup"  and the steel crown gear, but where??

 

More air testing.  

 

Any ideas??

 

All pics here:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/XDGmjwWDNXsXt9WL6

 

 

 

 

[dirtrider]

Evening Lowndes

 

Make up some soapy water then with drive pressurized use a small paint brush to paint the inside of that spool cavity.

 

Try to get the soapy water into that opening shown just above red arrows in picture. Also rotate the hub so the soapy water flows all the way around.   (look for soap bubbles)

 

Use a soap that bubble easily (laundry detergent isn't the best choice).

 

[Scott9999]

 

BMW RS Murder Mystery!!!  

 

(Sorry about your troubles, Lowndes, but it IS an interesting problem you have there.   Good luck on the diagnosis, and hopefully, quick fix.)

[Lowndes]

47 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

Evening Lowndes

 

Make up some soapy water then with drive pressurized use a small paint brush to paint the inside of that spool cavity.

 

Try to get the soapy water into that opening shown just above red arrows in picture. Also rotate the hub so the soapy water flows all the way around.   (look for soap bubbles)

 

Use a soap that bubble easily (laundry detergent isn't the best choice).

 

 

Dirtrider,

 

Do you, perchance, have a pic of what the other side of the hub in your pic looks like??  I've been wonderin.

 

 

Lowndes

[dirtrider]

20 minutes ago, Lowndes said:

 

Dirtrider,

 

Do you, perchance, have a pic of what the other side of the hub in your pic looks like??  I've been wonderin.

 

 

Lowndes

Evening Lowndes

 

Not much to see on that side as it is pretty slick.

 

Give me a few minutes & I will scoot out to my shop & shoot a picture (luckily I have a spool & ring available at the moment). 

 

[Lowndes]

Dirtrider,

 

Air is coming out everywhere, specifically the inside if the hub and all threaded holes (they are interconnected).  The interface between the crown gear and aluminum "cup" is the problem, apparently.  

 

For some reason I cant paste pics now.

 

All bubble pics here:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/WAJnXXsqdKKPXowm6

 

 

[Lowndes]

Well, I can paste pics in gmail, but not here.  All of a sudden.  BMWST won't let it happen all of a sudden.

 

Did I reach my limit, say something wrong??

[Lowndes]

Dirtrider,

 

We are assuming there is a press fit between the OD of the aluminum cap and ID of the crown gear, and it sure does look like that is the structural link.  There may be an interference fit on the OD of the Aluminum as well. If not, there could be (or have been) an oil seal there.  That's why I was asking about the pics of the back side of the crown gear.

 

 

Is there maybe a setting somewhere for permitting pasting here??

[Lowndes]

[dirtrider]

Evening Lowndes

 

I really don't know what the press fit interface is like, I keep saying I am going to press one apart to find out what is actually happening but I haven't had a leaker in a long time now (don't want to press a good one apart).

 

As I mentioned I have only seen a few in the last 20 years or so, that doesn't allow much investigation. I usually just tossed in a used drive or swapped the ring gear/spool & pinion over from another  drive. 

 

Once they start leaking I just didn't trust the press integrity. 

 

Sorry I just don't have any in depth info as I have seen so few of them leak & those were quite a while ago.  

 

I had a leaker in my shop for a long time (intending to investigate) but a friend of mine crashed his 1100 bike so I gave him that leaking drive to swap into the crashed bike before the insurance hauled it away. 

 

 

[Lowndes]

37 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

Evening Lowndes

 

Not much to see on that side as it is pretty slick.

 

Give me a few minutes & I will scoot out to my shop & shoot a picture (luckily I have a spool & ring available at the moment). 

 

 

 

YES!! THANK YOU!!  Looks like the aluminum was just machined to take the outboard inner bearing race, not a separate press-on steel piece there.

 

Also, looks like a seal on the OD of the Aluminum and crown gear (arrow).  Could that be a sealant in the joint there??  Could a small portion of that separated??

[dirtrider]

10 minutes ago, Lowndes said:

Dirtrider,

 

We are assuming there is a press fit between the OD of the aluminum cap and ID of the crown gear, and it sure does look like that is the structural link.  There may be an interference fit on the OD of the Aluminum as well. If not, there could be (or have been) an oil seal there.  That's why I was asking about the pics of the back side of the crown gear.

 

Evening Lowndes

 

Yes, that is possible as the fit to to the ring gear ID is pretty tight. 

 

I don't know about the pasting function, it might just be a quirk that will come back on it's own.  

[dirtrider]

12 minutes ago, Lowndes said:

 

 

YES!! THANK YOU!!  Looks like the aluminum was just machined to take the outboard inner bearing race, not a separate press-on steel piece there.

 

Also, looks like a seal on the OD of the Aluminum and crown gear (arrow).  Could that be a sealant in the joint there??  Could a small portion of that separated??

Evening Lowndes

 

I don't think it would have an actual  seal but very possibly could have a Loctite type retaining compound used. 

 

If the press fit joint is compromised then the press fit could be working around a little (I never trusted them once they leak). Might still be OK but I just didn't trust it after that.

 

There is a wicking (light green) Loctite that works good for leaking joints (wicks it's way in then sets up) but it needs to be squeaky clean in the joint for that to work & to stay working. I doubt you could ever get all the old gear oil out of that joint even with heat, brake clean, &  compressed air. Possibly in a hot degreaser but even that would be pretty iffy.  

[Lowndes]

Looks like the bottom line is/are :

 

1) Your suggestion of sealing the entire void - except that the threaded holes will need to be sealed as well.

 

2) remove the housing cover, remove the crown gear, find the problem and fix it.

 

3) keep looking for a used FD/make-do with a 33/11 FD

 

4) send it to Anton.

 

Aside from #4, the BIG question is:  WHAT WOULD DIRTRIDER DO??

[Lowndes]

Thinking about it, I don't trust it either. #3.

 

THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR GRACIOUS ASSISTANCE, DIRTRIDER!!

 

And I promise to NEVER interfere with any of your other assistance posts EVER AGAIN!!

 

 

Lowndes

[dirtrider]

5 minutes ago, Lowndes said:

Looks like the bottom line is/are :

 

1) Your suggestion of sealing the entire void - except that the threaded holes will need to be sealed as well.

 

2) remove the housing cover, remove the crown gear, find the problem and fix it.

 

3) keep looking for a used FD/make-do with a 33/11 FD

 

4) send it to Anton.

 

Aside from #4, the BIG question is:  WHAT WOULD DIRTRIDER DO??

Evening Lowndes

 

That is a darn good question. My preference would be to install a good used drive, or transfer the spool & pinion from a good drive with a damaged housing. Would take re-setting up (or checking anyhow) the backlash & tooth contact pattern of the transferred parts.

 

On your S bike that is not as easy as the drive ratio is slightly different.   

 

If it was my own bike & not my primary rider I might buy a junk used drive (1100 something not necessarily an S bike then press the spool apart to see if there might be a way to repair my spool (possibly wicking Loctite). 

[chrisolson]

1 hour ago, Lowndes said:

Did I reach my limit, say something wrong??

Nope ... all good ... unknown for now ...

 

EDIT: at times "pasting" has an issue with the source ... unless this is what you are already doing ... drag the orig image into the band at the bottom of the post window and click on it to add to the post

 

[Miguel!]

1 hour ago, Lowndes said:

Well, I can paste pics in gmail, but not here.  All of a sudden.  BMWST won't let it happen all of a sudden.

 

Did I reach my limit, say something wrong??

You might try shutting down your browser and relaunching it. You might try rebooting you computer. It's amazing how my problems disappear after a reboot. Miguel

[dirtrider]

12 hours ago, Miguel! said:

3) keep looking for a used FD/make-do with a 33/11 FD

Morning Lowndes

 

If you look for a used final drive (even if just for internal parts) just pay attention to the drive features (everything) as the 1100S came with & without ABS.  Plus, if you have the electric speedometer (no front wheel speedometer cable & cable drive) then you need the internal impulse wheel type ring/spool.  If your present drive has the internal speedometer impulse wheel then an R, GS, or RT final drive (no matter the ratio) will (possibly) not work. (at least I don't think it will but I'm not sure if your impulse wheel can be transferred to a non-S ring/spool). There is a machined shoulder on the non S (R, RT, GS) spools but (IF) it will take an impulse wheel is questionable. You probably want to know for sure before buying a non S drive. 

 

Obviously the non-S (R, RT, GS) final drive "housing" will not be machined to accept the speedometer sensor. 

 

 

[Lowndes]

Good morning, Dirtrider!!

 

Yes, the original FD has both the speedo and ABS sensors.  This greatly limits the available FD's.

 

 

 

Another question:  Some of the R1100 FD's have the brake disc attached to the FD, some are not like mine (instead attached to the wheel with the ABS sensor ring).  It L-O-O-K-S like the disc-on-the-FD can be removed with the two countersunk hex-drive screws to leave a hub that will mate with my wheel and shorter lugbolts.  What about the disc and caliper matchup??

 

 

 

The only other difference I can find is, as you said above, the gear ratio of my OEM is 33/12, most of the other R1100 FD's are 33/11, which might not be too bad as it won't redline in 6th anyway.  I don't know where in the drivetrain the R1100S engine/transmission changes from the R1150 pattern back to the R1100.  I'm hoping the pinion shaft splines and paralever swingarm are the same.  Any thoughts on this??

 

 

Lowndes

 

 

 

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, Lowndes said:

Good morning, Dirtrider!!

 

Yes, the original FD has both the speedo and ABS sensors.  This greatly limits the available FD's.

 

 

 

Another question:  Some of the R1100 FD's have the brake disc attached to the FD, some are not like mine (instead attached to the wheel with the ABS sensor ring).  It L-O-O-K-S like the disc-on-the-FD can be removed with the two countersunk hex-drive screws to leave a hub that will mate with my wheel and shorter lugbolts.  What about the disc and caliper matchup??

 

 

 

The only other difference I can find is, as you said above, the gear ratio of my OEM is 33/12, most of the other R1100 FD's are 33/11, which might not be too bad as it won't redline in 6th anyway.  I don't know where in the drivetrain the R1100S engine/transmission changes from the R1150 pattern back to the R1100.  I'm hoping the pinion shaft splines and paralever swingarm are the same.  Any thoughts on this??

 

Morning  Lowndes

 

When they went to the EVO brakes (somewhere around mid 2001-2002) the rear brake disk moved to the wheel (most R bikes except the S). (not sure what the 1100S did though as those things are outliers) 

 

As far as what fits what?  That is always a research project for me (especially when it comes to those darn 1100S bikes). 

 

You probably want to stay with a pre 2002 drive or at least pre EVO brakes but with deep research the later ones just might work. 

 

You have to really watch the E-Bay ads as they will claim a number of years that it fits but most are just a guess. You need to find out what it CAME OFF OF.

 

Added: I think the later (mid 2001 up) with the EVO brakes used the I-ABS module for speedometer signal conditioning so the final drive sensor might be different. (might only use one speed sensor in the drive). 

 

Unless you can confirm the later (after mid 2001 up) final drives have the proper speed  sensor location & signal output then you might be better off sticking to a pre EVO brake final drive.  

 

Added; Added:  Max shows the 1100S pre 02/2001 (ABS) drive as different than the post 02/2001 (ABS) drive. (must be something different?)

 

 

[dirtrider]

Afternoon Lowndes

 

Just a thought__

 

Unless you intend on trying to seal that hole with a freeze plug then seal the wheel bolt/rotor bolt holes as a temporary repair until you find a drive you could remove the drive side cover, spool & all (it just pulls right off once the bolts are removed).

 

Then support the tooth side of the ring gear over a bucket or hole (use wood to protect the ring gear teeth).

 

Then drop a hardwood dowel down in the center of that cavity. Then give that dowel a couple of good raps with a large hammer.  

 

See if that alloy extrusion moves (might tell you, or show you, something).  

 

[Lowndes]

Dirtrider,

 

Is this the same shoulder for the speedo sender ring??

 

 

I'm guessing the inner race in the pic is a press fit.  If I find a used FD without ABS I could pull off the race, press my sender ring on, then press the race back on.  Viola.  Maybe get the prussian blue out.

 

If I get all this working right, then I'll go beat on my crown ring and dowel.  I really want to see what turned lose and maybe why.

 

THANK YOU, SIR!!

[dirtrider]

15 hours ago, Lowndes said:

Dirtrider,

 

Is this the same shoulder for the speedo sender ring??

 

I'm guessing the inner race in the pic is a press fit.  If I find a used FD without ABS I could pull off the race, press my sender ring on, then press the race back on.  Viola.  Maybe get the prussian blue out.

 

If I get all this working right, then I'll go beat on my crown ring and dowel.  I really want to see what turned lose and maybe why.

Morning  Lowndes

 

That is the machined shoulder I was referring to in my above posting.  It L-O-O-K-S like it could be about the correct size for the speedometer impulse wheel to press on but without actually measuring it, or pressing your existing impulse wheel off then trying it on the non-S spool that is just a guess from looking at pictures. 

 

If I find a used FD without ABS I could pull off the race, press my sender ring on, then press the race back on.-- That   impulse wheel (impulse ring) is not for the ABS, it is for your electronic speedometer.  The ABS gets it's speed signal from the sensor reading on the tone ring at the brake rotor.

But I think (don't know without looking/researching) is that the later (I-ABS) 1100S bikes might use a single ABS speed sensor for both ABS speed input & for speedometer speed input as I'm pretty sure the later (I-ABS) 1100S bikes use the ABS module for speed signal conditioning then send that conditioned signal on to the dash speedometer. 

 

The other thing that might come into play is the pinion spline (that would have to be verified as the same between your present S & the drive you intend to use as a donor). I'm pretty sure they are the same but when it comes to the S bikes I NEVER assume anything  (those things were designed by the Devil)

 

If you have problems getting your old impulse wheel off (not much to get a puller on) you can buy a new p/n- 33121451181  impulse wheel from BMW for about $18.00 (if they still have them in stock).

 

Have I ever mentioned how much I hate working on the old S bikes as everything is a constant & continuous fight. 

 

 

 

 

[Lowndes]

Dirtrider,

 

Getting the speedo impulse ring off without damaging it may be difficult.  All I have for tools is a pair of pliars and a big rock.  I'll check at Bob's, see if they still have one.

 

I was very surprised to find that the ABS sensor (2.5" x .75" diameter) on my bike passes all the way THRU the FD housing (with seals on both sides), just missing the crown gear.  Truly the work of a committee of Devils.

 

Didn't I see you mention somewhere that at one time that you owned an R1100S??

 

THANK YOU, SIR!!

 

 

Lowndes

[dirtrider]

11 minutes ago, Lowndes said:

Dirtrider,

 

Getting the speedo impulse ring off without damaging it may be difficult.  All I have for tools is a pair of pliars and a big rock.  I'll check at Bob's, see if they still have one.

 

I was very surprised to find that the ABS sensor (2.5" x .75" diameter) on my bike passes all the way THRU the FD (with seals on both sides), just missing the crown gear.  Truly the work of a committee of Devils.

 

Didn't I see you mention somewhere that at one time that you owned an R1100S??

 

THANK YOU, SIR!!

 

 

Lowndes

Morning  Lowndes

 

Years ago I did briefly own an 1100S (bought low mileage used) , very pretty motorcycle I just didn't have a real use for it as it wasn't much for an everyday rider & it fell short for a weekend travel motorcycle. Fun bike to ride though.   I would have kept it longer but I had a Ducati that filled it's usage role (plus sounded a lot better & was faster).

 

A co-worker thought it was calling his name every time he saw it in the parking lot so it went on to a new home.  Unfortunately I still had to work on it until he got transferred to a different engineering facility. 

[Rockosmith]

Inquiring (nosey) minds want to know…is this issue resolved?

[Lowndes]

Yes, I owe all the gracious, helpful people and well-wishers here an update.  Past due, really, I know.  It's been hectic.

 

After reading and rereading all of Dirtriders posts here and searching eBay, craigslist, BBY, and a slew of others that very helpful members here suggested, sorting out the few possible options and suitable used parts that might fix my FD, I've narrowed it down to 5 possible used FD's that are available. 

 

I need a FD with 33/12 gearing, An ABS sensor, and a speedo sensor.  One very helpful member put me in touch with a parts place near him in So Cal that had just what I needed we thought at first, then determined another guy that actually had the FD wanted $500 plus freight, but it was a 33/11.  I had kinda resolved myself to find a 33/12 FD and just add a speedo sensor ring to the spindle and swap the crown gear in my FD housing, either hoping for the best or testing the gear mesh pattern. 

 

Of all the FD's available there were 4 with 33/12 that either the ABS or the speedo was missing.  One in Canada (customs issues??), one in Anaheim, one in Ohio, plus another from the first parts place in So Cal.  Aren't you confused yet??

 

Then, another unit popped up on eBay in the Bay Area (SF) with everything I needed at a very reasonable price of $195 for the whole swingarm. WooHoo!! But there a was a problem: "Local pickup" meant "ONLY LP" I foud out.  I looked on the members map and saw a name that I'd read before here and sent him a PM with the problem outlined and asked if he would be willing to make the 7.5 hour drive of 22 miles in CA traffic to get this hunkojunk to a UPS store for me all expenses and gratuities paid.   He gratiously accepted the challenge, but wait, there's more!!  I still needed to verify that it is a 33/12 and this guy wouldn't even answer an ebay message until I said I could have it pickedup locally.  Then he said he'd throw in a "second one for parts".  I think he's getting me to pay for his trash removal.  The third time I explained where the gear numbers were and what they looked like, I finally figured out he didn't know what a Final Drive is, much less where the top of it is so I included his pic with the FD circled in red.  Then I told him I didn't need the "second unit" or even the whole swingarm, just the part circled, and would still pay his full asking price if he would remove the pivot pins and paralever "bars".    Now, getting a reply from this guy, and it HAD to be a guy, was taking 1.5 days on average.  The last request cost me 2.5 days and he replied "no picture attached".  It was there when it was sent, eBay scrubbed it.  They are anal about people trying to go around them and for good reason.  So I tried a second time with the pic and a link to the pic on Google Photo and THAT is where we are at the moment on this FD project  

 

While doing this, I've had the usual workload and projects, plus two huge orders that were double shipped from the factory (in Mexico) and I got both resolved so that everyone was happy.  mostly.  plus a large new account from 0 to 95% landed, had a 120 ft tall half-dead pine tree next to my deck removed (today), lost a hearing aid, kept the feral kittens under the deck safe and fed, and picked up a MC lift for this project.  I said it's been hectic.

 

Talking to the tree guy today, I asked if they were able to sell that straight, clean, clear pine to a sawmill.  He said they used to sell it but for the last 3-4 years no one will take it.  "Lumber shorages" and "timber shortages", astronomical lumber prices, and all being blamed on "covid" is a ruse.  In the last three weeks I've seen truckloads of these big 50-60 year old planted pines hauled out of this neighborhood straight to a landfill where it costs $350 per load to dump.  Oops.  Off topic. 

[Lowndes]

UPDATE:

 

With the very gracious assistance of a member here, there is a suitable Final Drive ON THE WAY.

 

The only FD on eBay, or from any sources that several other very helpful members here recommended, was a "Local PickUp Only" near San Francisco.  I found a member about 25 miles from the seller who agreed to do the "PickupanDropoff" with a seller he didn't know and for a member (me) on the other side of the country he didn't know, and finally got all the details worked out, money paid, contact info swapped, and deal done.  IT'S ON THE WAY!!  Is this a Great Group or what!!

 

Should be here Monday.

 

I can't wait to take the leaker apart and see what happened.  Always liked forensics.

 

QUESTION:  What would make a good "THANK YOU" gift for another member for helping??  Any ideas??

 

More to come.

 

 

 

 

[Miguel!]

Gift card at Cyclegear.com?

Miguel

[chrisolson]

On 5/12/2022 at 6:01 PM, Lowndes said:

I looked on the members map

 

A great use of a specific BMWST resource ...

 

 

Glad it all worked out !!

[wbw6cos]

Tea biscuits, chocolates, and maybe a t-shirt?    

[9Mary7]

13 hours ago, Miguel! said:

Miguel

Are you suggesting "for a friend"?

[LBump]

Good to read you found one.

If amenable, a donation to board on members behalf.  

[BamaJohn]

Glad you found a suitable FD....I knew you'd be like a bird dog on point until a solution was found!  

[Miguel!]

2 hours ago, 9Mary7 said:

Are you suggesting "for a friend"?

No, just answering Lowndes: "QUESTION:  What would make a good "THANK YOU" gift for another member for helping??  Any ideas??" 🙂

[Scott9999]

18 hours ago, Lowndes said:

UPDATE:

 

With the very gracious assistance of a member here, there is a suitable Final Drive ON THE WAY.

 

The only FD on eBay, or from any sources that several other very helpful members here recommended, was a "Local PickUp Only" near San Francisco.  I found a member about 25 miles from the seller who agreed to do the "PickupanDropoff" with a seller he didn't know and for a member (me) on the other side of the country he didn't know, and finally got all the details worked out, money paid, contact info swapped, and deal done.  IT'S ON THE WAY!!  Is this a Great Group or what!!

 

Should be here Monday.

 

I can't wait to take the leaker apart and see what happened.  Always liked forensics.

 

QUESTION:  What would make a good "THANK YOU" gift for another member for helping??  Any ideas??

 

More to come.

 

 

 

 

Good on you, for thinking this way!

 

Well, as I've been getting to know you better Lowndes, over this forum, I'm guessing that you want to make it something more special than just a bottle of the guys favorite social-sparkler drink.  When I built my house, the soil engineering company sent over an Equipment operator who worked most of a month on some tricky issues on this property.  The crusty, older guy used all of his years of experience to solve some problems for us, and get things done, and I and my wife really appreciated it.   While we were talking with him, he learned that I was prior (US) Navy, and we learned that he in turn, used to crew boats in the Americas Cup race.   When he wrapped up, we really wanted to thank him "properly", so I went out and found a handmade, detailed, wooden replica of a historic boat he had crewed, a real and rare collectors item, ordered it, and dropped it off at his company as both a gift and award work work well done.

 

So, what do you know about this member's background?  Maybe either a BMW motorcycle classic, or something related to what he does/did for a living (i.e. military aircraft, etc.), i.e. a memento that he'll want to keep on display for life?

 

Just brain storming for ya.  Sometimes my stormin' brain comes up with something useful, and sometimes it's .... well, just a fairly defective unit.   🙃😁

[Lowndes]

5 hours ago, BamaJohn said:

Glad you found a suitable FD....I knew you'd be like a bird dog on point until a solution was found!  

 

Like a duck on a junebug, John!!

 

I gotta get this old girl going again.  Wanna find out exactly what turned loose, too.

 

GREAT Ideas on gifts, here.  Unfortunately there isn't a Cycle Gear store closer than 75 miles to him.  I guess he could order online.  He's been riding a long time, retired, probably has every farkle already.

 

A donation to the board here is a very good idea.  That might just have legs.

 

Tea biskets, Yes!!  But where to get them. (Esoteric exchange)

 

Scott's story is really good and a great idea but I don't know anything else about him other that he spent a whole day doing me a huge favor just because I'm a member here, too.  Not saying he wouldn't do the same for any other person that asked him, member or not, but that's how I found him. This group really is something special, as Boxflier said at START.  

 

All that said gives me an idea.  What about me doing a good deed, a helpful act, a big favor, for another member here.  Kind of a "Pay it forward" only not exactly.  Kind of an "in house" good deed exchange program.  Except that that's done all the time here on an industrial scale (i.e. Boxflier driving all the way down to START with a huge trailer of parts, tires, and tools and teaching classes and servicing bikes for three days in a row, not to mention Indy Dave and the BBR doing countless hours putting all these rides together, motels, routes, caterers, etc, etc, etc).  

 

Don't know.  Wish I could somehow show my appreciation or return the favor somehow.

 

 

 

[Scott9999]

3 minutes ago, Lowndes said:

 

Scott's story is really good and a great idea but I don't know anything else about him other that he spent a whole day doing me a huge favor just because I'm a member here, too.  Not saying he wouldn't do the same for any other person that asked him, member or not, but that's how I found him. This group really is something special, as Boxflier said at START.  

 

All that said gives me an idea.  What about me doing a good deed, a helpful act, a big favor, for another member here.  Kind of a "Pay it forward" only not exactly.  Kind of an "in house" good deed exchange program.  Except that that's done all the time here on an industrial scale (i.e. Boxflier driving all the way down to START with a huge trailer of parts, tires, and tools and teaching classes and servicing bikes for three days in a row, not to mention Indy Dave and the BBR doing countless hours putting all these rides together, motels, routes, caterers, etc, etc, etc).  

 

 

 

 

Naw, I'm the  materialist sort, I guess.  I'd want my "sentimental" toy!  🤣🤣🤣  Actually, my suggestion was because sending money or a gift card (which is about the same thing) is so, dang impersonal.  You're doing a really good thing.  Paying forward is already the default for most everyone here (yep, Boxflyers is the prototype, now, but there have been many others over the years; this forum has been so rich!).  You started it with the question, now, go finish strong! 😏

 

Hmm, there's that "brain" problem of mine, kicking in again.  I'll bet after you tear down your existing final drive, you could find a cool, "representative" part out of it, mount it on a wooden plaque, add a $5 brass name plate with some sort of title, e.g. "BMWSPORTTURNING MEMBER OF THE MONTH", or whatever - again, better brains out there == better slogans.  🤣  Heck, I'd put something like that on my garage wall in a heartbeat.  (Hmm, I'd say that this could be a fun idea for Boxflyer at some future tech daze type event, but ... he's probably gonna read this post, and it will no longer be a cool surprise, just another one of my dumb ideas that unfortunately, require follow-through...nevermind.)  🤔 🙄

[Lowndes]

I like it!!  GREAT IDEA.  And I do that kind of woodwork art-deco collage memorabelia wall hanger stuff!!  A pic of the wheel with the oil streaming down (in place of the broken part).  Nice caption, "YOU saved the day!!"

 

I was kinda thinking a year subscription to "Motorcycle Classics" would be a bimonthly reminder in the mail of a good deed once done. I mean, he's a classic and likes bikes, and maybe had one of these once. 

 

 

Oh, wait, Chris Olson just voted for the "Donation" option.