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Clutch replacement


Happy Jack

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Happy Jack

Spent last weekend taking an ERC class that required a LOT of slow speed "miss the cone" training. Six hours, 10 miles later and a lot of clutch and throttle feathering, the clutch on my '96 R1100RT with 70K seems to be slipping now when I accelerate hard from a stop, to avoid on-coming traffic to get to the other side. frown.gif

Can someone point me to the article on separation of the gearbox, swingarm and rear wheel as a unit, to replace my clutch plate. I know I've seen it sometime ago, but my search efforts for the last hour have not found it. confused.gif

I'm about 60 percent, I think, complete with striping all the necessary body parts off before attacking the final 6 bolts on the gearbox. Do I really need to take the rear sub-frame off to remove the airbox for access to the top 2 bolts on the gearbox/ engine? bncry.gif

I have plans to leave for Colorado with my brother for 3 weeks on June 1st, but now think we may have to delay that for another week.

Thanks for any input.

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Dances_With_Wiener_Dogs

You're about at the right point for a clutch.

 

Can someone point me to the article on separation of the gearbox, swingarm and rear wheel as a unit, to replace my clutch plate. I know I've seen it sometime ago, but my search efforts for the last hour have not found it. ...Do I really need to take the rear sub-frame off to remove the airbox for access to the top 2 bolts on the gearbox/ engine?
NO, do not take the subframe off. Take 4 of the bolts out but leave the thru-rod in place as a pivot. Loosen the wiring harness but cutting a few zip ties and pivot the subframe up using a rachet strap. You don't need an overhead point for the strap, but can attach to the frame inside the tail section and the points that the gas tank rests against.

 

If you give me your mailing address I'll send you the "Ted's Spline Lube DVD" if you promise to send it back to me when you're finished. This can be a long day of wrenching by yourself. If you want to reimburse me the charges, I can send it via FedEx for a Saturday delivery and you can have the DVD for the holiday weekend.

 

This DVD will walk you through every step of the process and I found it to be a valuable resource.

 

I'll send a PM with my work contact info. smile.gif

 

40837666-M.jpg

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Do I really need to take the rear sub-frame off to remove the airbox for access to the top 2 bolts on the gearbox/ engine?
As mentioned, pivot the sub-frame up on its front rod, but the airbox does have to come out.
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Happy Jack

First I'd like to thank Steve for his help and I'm looking forward to viewing the DVD.

My beemer is now stripped with its tail in the air, parts are on the way and case separation should be in the next few days.

My local H/W store' longest 8mm bolt was only 90mm long, is that enough for the guide pins? My guess is that the 110 is min. to allow pushrod clearance. Where do I install the pins, the upper two locations? Should I adjust for more slack on the clutch lever side before I re-mate the gear case, to allow for the new thickness of the clutch plates?

I'm sure it must have been said before but, a quick way to check the status of your clutch plates during your next 6K service is to pull the starter and check the thickness of the plates via the starter hole. Mine registered 4.15mm it s/b 4.5mm min.

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longest 8mm bolt was only 90mm long, is that enough for the guide pins?
Yes easly.
Where do I install the pins, the upper two locations?
I use them in four postions, but two might do.
to allow pushrod clearance
Pull the pushrod out the rear first! Important! Re-install it after the tranny is back in place.
Should I adjust for more slack on the clutch lever side before I re-mate the gear case, to allow for the new thickness of the clutch plates?
Yes
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Happy Jack

Ken, thanks for the reply and info. smile.gif

I'm planing to remove the whole drive train, gear box back to final dive. I seperated everyting from the gear box back about 2 years ago for a throw out bearing problem.

So would the guide pin lenght still be OK since I would have to install the pushrod before the tranny mate?

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Ken, thanks for the reply and info. smile.gif

I'm planing to remove the whole drive train, gear box back to final dive. I seperated everyting from the gear box back about 2 years ago for a throw out bearing problem.

So would the guide pin lenght still be OK since I would have to install the pushrod before the tranny mate?

 

I pulled the rear end complete - I pulled the pushrod before separation and installed it after reconnection - it fits and removes via the rear of the tranny. I used two 110mm dowels one top left, the other bottom right - these go through the locating bushes.

 

Andy

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I'm planing to remove the whole drive train, gear box back to final dive.
Well personally I wouldn't. I think you're going to find it's way to much to handle as a single assembly. Especially going back in. Leave the FD and the drive shaft housing together if you wish, but separate them off the tranny first wound be my approach.
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I'm planing to remove the whole drive train, gear box back to final dive.
Well personally I wouldn't. I think you're going to find it's way to much to handle as a single assembly. Especially going back in. Leave the FD and the drive shaft housing together if you wish, but separate them off the tranny first wound be my approach.

 

It is an easy two-man lift and we had no problems but I wouldn't try it as a one man job without suspending it from a hoist.

 

Andy thumbsup.gif

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Happy Jack

Conned two of my in-laws to help after they ate my burgers and dogs yesterday that I grilled up. grin.gif With there help and a rolling floor jack, it was quite easy.

Is there an easy alternative to a BMW clutch plate centering tool?

 

Chuck smile.gif

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Conned two of my in-laws to help after they ate my burgers and dogs yesterday that I grilled up. grin.gif With there help and a rolling floor jack, it was quite easy.

Is there an easy alternative to a BMW clutch plate centering tool?

 

Chuck smile.gif

 

Assemble the clutch loose, just enough to the friction plate will stay put when you slide it. Line up the clutch plate to the flywheel centre hole by eye, then engage the tranny - might need a wiggle. Then pull the tranny and torque up the clutch cover bolts.

 

Andy thumbsup.gif

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Assemble the clutch loose, just enough to the friction plate will stay put when you slide it. Line up the clutch plate to the flywheel centre hole by eye, then engage the tranny - might need a wiggle. Then pull the tranny and torque up the clutch cover bolts.
I would add... before you pull the tranny, snug up a few of the clutch bolts though the opening for the starter motor. This will ensure that you don't disturb the clutch center as you remove the transmission.
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Happy Jack

It's back on the road as of today. clap.gif Installation was easy, getting ALL of the various pieces and parts back together was quite a chore. tongue.gif

Due to my time constraints, I ended up making a clutch centering tool by using the clutch pushrod and then sliding a 1/2 deep socket that has been drilled with a size "U" hole in the center of the socket to clear the rod. The scocket's OD and the friction plate spline ID are a very close match and the drilling only slightly enlarges an existing hole within the socket. It worked for me, but then again maybe I got lucky. crazy.gif

Thaks to all that helped on this project. wave.gif

I was supposed to leave on a 4 week trip to Co. and surrounding areas yesterday, but will now leave on Sunday knowing that I have a good clutch.

 

Chuck

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