Brodiepunker18 Posted March 31, 2022 Share Posted March 31, 2022 So I’m overhauling my brake system on my 1999 r1100rt and am doing everything…rotors, pads, stainless steel lines, fluid obviously. Lol im also going to be replacing the seals in the master since it will be empty. but my question mainly is in regards to the hardware holding the discs on. My new front rotors came with new nuts or bobbins or whatever they are and my rear did not. I haven’t really looked at it in depth but do I need to replace anything else? *are there nuts or bobbins to replace on the rear disc or are they bolts? Not sure if this is a wear item or not. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted March 31, 2022 Share Posted March 31, 2022 1 hour ago, Brodiepunker18 said: So I’m overhauling my brake system on my 1999 r100rt and am doing everything…rotors, pads, stainless steel lines, fluid obviously. Lol im also going to be replacing the seals in the master since it will be empty. but my question mainly is in regards to the hardware holding the discs on. My new front rotors came with new nuts or bobbins or whatever they are and my rear did not. I haven’t really looked at it in depth but do I need to replace anything else? *are there nuts or bobbins to replace on the rear disc or are they bolts? Not sure if this is a wear item or not. Morning Brodiepunker18 You don't have a spoke wheel motorcycle do you? (if so let us know that) The rear rotor is held on with difficult to remove flathead bolts. You could easily need new bolts on the rear as those can easily get pretty butchered up in removal. It usually takes heat to remove the rear rotor bolts as well as a lot of times you need to use a center punch at an angle to get them to break loose. Cast wheel rear rotor bolts __ (2 ea) P/N - 34212330021 Link to comment
Brodiepunker18 Posted March 31, 2022 Author Share Posted March 31, 2022 I DO have spoke wheels. Sorry, I knew I missed a detail…I know they aren’t common Link to comment
dirtrider Posted March 31, 2022 Share Posted March 31, 2022 2 hours ago, Brodiepunker18 said: I DO have spoke wheels. Sorry, I knew I missed a detail…I know they aren’t common Afternoon Brodiepunker18 Ok, that makes a difference. Those (spoke wheel) rear brake rotor bolts can usually be removed cold (no heat) but if someone has loc-tited them in the past then you might need some heat on the wheel in the bolt area to break them free. Clean the threads on the removed bolts & in the wheel threads then (per BMW manual) use lock-tite 243 on the threads at reassembly. Lock-tite 243 is somewhat difficult to find in local auto parts stores. You can substitute lock-tite 242 (blue) as that is easier to find. The 242 just takes longer to cure. Be sure to check the ABS sensor air gap when re-assembled. Speed sensor air gap= .45 - .55 mm (.018" - .022") 1 Link to comment
Skywagon Posted March 31, 2022 Share Posted March 31, 2022 What DR said. If you are worried about metal fatigue, don’t. Good on you for doing such a thorough job. Money and time well spent. 1 Link to comment
Brodiepunker18 Posted March 31, 2022 Author Share Posted March 31, 2022 Thank you. I appreciate it. I figure with it being 23 years old I should do it all so I know it’s all done and safe.(still have rubber hoses currently) do you guys think I’m missing anything with this? Link to comment
Brodiepunker18 Posted May 17, 2022 Author Share Posted May 17, 2022 On 3/31/2022 at 10:01 AM, dirtrider said: Be sure to check the ABS sensor air gap when re-assembled. Speed sensor air gap= .45 - .55 mm (.018" - .022") hey dirtrider- how do I check the air gap? Also do I need to check the front air gap as well? Link to comment
dirtrider Posted May 17, 2022 Share Posted May 17, 2022 50 minutes ago, Brodiepunker18 said: hey dirtrider- how do I check the air gap? Also do I need to check the front air gap as well? Afternoon Brodiepunker18 You slide a feeler gauge in between the sensor tip & ABS tone ring. (if your motorcycle has a tool kit look in there as the factory tool kit came with the correct feeler gauges. (the checking procedure should also be in your motorcycle riders manual). Wouldn't hurt to check the front but if your ABS was working OK then it is probably close. Link to comment
Brodiepunker18 Posted May 17, 2022 Author Share Posted May 17, 2022 I don’t have think I’ve ever had it kick on to be perfectly honest. I’ve only had the bike for a year so far. I’ll check to be sure. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted May 17, 2022 Share Posted May 17, 2022 23 minutes ago, Brodiepunker18 said: I don’t have think I’ve ever had it kick on to be perfectly honest. I’ve only had the bike for a year so far. I’ll check to be sure. Afternoon Brodiepunker18 Your ABS dash warning lights will start flashing if your ABS is not working. Link to comment
Brodiepunker18 Posted May 18, 2022 Author Share Posted May 18, 2022 They only are on when the bike is turned on then kick off once I’m moving. Which is normal from my understanding…so that’s good Link to comment
Brodiepunker18 Posted May 18, 2022 Author Share Posted May 18, 2022 So tonight I’m gonna bleed my rear brakes on the rt and need to bleed at the abs as well…which nipple is for the rear brakes? id do the front however they messed up my brake lines at the calipers…then messed them up again somehow…😡 so until I get those I’d like to at least get the rear done. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted May 18, 2022 Share Posted May 18, 2022 1 hour ago, Brodiepunker18 said: So tonight I’m gonna bleed my rear brakes on the rt and need to bleed at the abs as well…which nipple is for the rear brakes? id do the front however they messed up my brake lines at the calipers…then messed them up again somehow…😡 so until I get those I’d like to at least get the rear done. Morning Brodiepunker18 Rear is farthest from the motor (on left in your picture above). 1 Link to comment
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