Jump to content
IGNORED

fix it list and 2002 bmw 1150


Newbiebmw2021

Recommended Posts

3 minutes ago, Newbiebmw2021 said:

it is a 4 amp 32 volt fuse.

 

Afternoon Newbiebmw2021

 

That is probably why it blew as it should be a 10 amp fuse!

 

Try a 10 amp fuse before condemning the pump. 

 

 

Link to comment
Newbiebmw2021

ahhh ok. no shit. 

 

i will buy a fuse and put it back together and see what happens. fingers crossed 

Link to comment
7 minutes ago, Newbiebmw2021 said:

ahhh ok. no shit. 

 

i will buy a fuse and put it back together and see what happens. fingers crossed 

Afternoon Newbiebmw2021

 

Buy a few 10 amp fuses as you might need more to track your problems if a new fuse doesn't resolve the problem.  

  • Plus 1 1
Link to comment
16 minutes ago, Newbiebmw2021 said:

I also think i felt some rust in the tank floating in the gas. 

Afternoon Newbiebmw2021

 

Yes, that pump plate assembly doesn't look like it came from a tank that was cared for. 

 

Just get it running for now to see if any other major issues show up. 

 

Then eventually you will need new internal hoses, new clamps, a new fuel filter, & possibly a new pump & strainer (intake sock) kit. 

 

Keep an eye on E-Bay as every once in a while  an 1150R fuel pump assembly will show up for sale, there are a couple of them there now but $300.00 or more each (ouch!). 

 

 

Link to comment
Newbiebmw2021

yea if i get it running i will only run it close to home. and wait for a fuel pump thing to pop up on ebay. no rush. 

 

that’s expensive. damn

Link to comment
Newbiebmw2021

it’s just weird that it ran before and the fuse was never a issue. what could that mean? i guess we won’t know till i put the 10 amp fuse in there and go from there to understand why it needs to 10 amp fuse but before it worked on a 4 amp fuse. 

Link to comment
1 minute ago, Newbiebmw2021 said:

it’s just weird that it ran before and the fuse was never a issue. what could that mean? i guess we won’t know till i put the 10 amp fuse in there and go from there to understand why it needs to 10 amp fuse but before it worked on a 4 amp fuse. 

Evening Newbiebmw2021

 

It probably means that in all your testing & frustration you somehow got the wrong fuse back in the wrong slot.

Link to comment
Newbiebmw2021

well I put a 10 amp fuse in and it runs good. fixed that problem. jeez what a mess that was 

 

Link to comment
Newbiebmw2021

It still smells a tad rich. i’m gonna try and set the throttle bodies wirh the manometer i have when i get home from work

 

the attached photo is how the o2 sensor is routed at the exhaust. is this ok?

 

 

btw dr you are a legend. thank you for helping me. i am beyond grateful. i am excited to get this bike running really good 

447E6931-3A11-42D1-B970-1E2EEC6C079F.jpeg

Link to comment

Just to put my 2 penith in. Years ago i had a bike with an internal pump. Testing it out of the tank it worked perfectly, but once petrol through it. it stopped working. After days of scratching my head it turned out the rubber tubing was collapsing when there was pressure applied.

Link to comment
22 minutes ago, Doctor T said:

Just to put my 2 penith in. Years ago i had a bike with an internal pump. Testing it out of the tank it worked perfectly, but once petrol through it. it stopped working. After days of scratching my head it turned out the rubber tubing was collapsing when there was pressure applied.

Morning Newbiebmw2021

 

It looks like Doctor T wants to take over on this & help you with the remainder of your problems. Your problems are way too complex to have multiple posters trying to take you in different troubleshooting directions.  

 

So I will step aside so Doctor T can work with you on your many remaining problems. 

Link to comment

No D.R please carry on helping the OP. I only posted it to say how pipes can collases under pressure. You are way more Knowledgeable on BMW than me. My  my line is with non injection stsyems.

I will bog off in respect

Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...
Newbiebmw2021

here is a update. 

Huge success. fixed bike and went for the first ride. The bike did great but if i gave  it more then like 1/2 gas the motor wouldn’t handle it and it would stumble. the bike would fall on its face. 

thank you for all your help dr. you are a great friend for helping my beginner ass. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
  • 1 month later...
Newbiebmw2021

Hey dr, 

Hope your doing well. i have been riding the bike and it’s been doing ok. i am on my second bottle of techron.

One question when the bike is cruising and i gas  it sometimes it will surge or just fall on its face, sometimes it does ok. if i floor it wide open it falls on its face most times. It was stalling allot and that seemed to stop so i’m not sure if it will straighten out or there is a course of action to take. 

 

Should i change the plugs or do anything ese other then the techron in the tank?

 

best jeremy 

Link to comment
12 hours ago, Newbiebmw2021 said:

Hey dr, 

Hope your doing well. i have been riding the bike and it’s been doing ok. i am on my second bottle of techron.

One question when the bike is cruising and i gas  it sometimes it will surge or just fall on its face, sometimes it does ok. if i floor it wide open it falls on its face most times. It was stalling allot and that seemed to stop so i’m not sure if it will straighten out or there is a course of action to take. 

 

Should i change the plugs or do anything ese other then the techron in the tank?

 

 

Morning   jeremy 

 

You have come a LONG way with that motorcycle__

 

Your present problem sounds like a possible fuel flow issue as it takes way more fuel flow at wide open throttle than just cruising along. 

 

You might just ride it for a while more to see if the Techron, as well as continually adding new fuel to the tank will help. 

 

With the in-tank vent & fuel ring drain hoses being hooked to JUST the pump pass-through plate but not to the filler neck you could have ended up with some water inside the fuel tank.

 

If the problem doesn't clear up on it's own in a short time then you will probably have to run a fuel pressure test, a fuel (return-hose)  flow test, & possibly check the little filter screens in the fuel injector inlets for being partially plugged or restricted. 

 

When I get a chance I need to go back & re-read our 64 personal messages to see if we missed something that might point a finger. 

 

I took a quick look at the PM's & that rust floating around in the tank could easily be have ended up in the fuel filter or in the injector inlet screens. 

 

The other thing we need to be concerned with is the fuel tank parts as your 1150RT has been poorly converted to somewhat of an R so we don't really know if the parts used were 1150 or 1100 parts. (the 1100 runs slightly lower fuel pressure). Probably not enough difference to make it completely fall flat at wide open throttle but could have some effect on the problem.

 

Added: with all those fuel tank removals & ALL the other fuel system work done you might make sure that both of the spark plug wires are FULLY plugged  into the ignition coil. A spark plug wire pulled partially out of the coil can cause runability issues under high engine load (like wide open throttle)  

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Newbiebmw2021

morning dr.

 

yes we have come far man. I road it 200 miles yesterday.
 

I will run it longer with the techron. Should I add another bottle just for kicks? 

Link to comment
7 minutes ago, Newbiebmw2021 said:

morning dr.

 

yes we have come far man. I road it 200 miles yesterday.
 

I will run it longer with the techron. Should I add another bottle just for kicks? 

Afternoon  jeremy 

 

No, don't add too much at one time, just follow the directions on the Techron bottle. 

Link to comment
3 minutes ago, Newbiebmw2021 said:

I understand but keep using it tho. Rather then juts gas buy it self. 

Afternoon  jeremy 

 

Yes, at least for a little while yet, if your surge, or lack of full power, doesn't go away then you will probably have to dig in & do the fuel system tests I mentioned above. 

Link to comment
1 hour ago, Newbiebmw2021 said:

Ok sounds good. What fuel pressure tester should i buy? I will just order one 

Afternoon  jeremy

 

Good question,  I have an older Snap-On fuel system testing set with lots of specialized  fittings & extras (quite expensive even way back when I bought it).

 

You can buy about any fuel pressure gauge or fuel pressure tester set but the gauge needs to go to at least 60psi. You will need to rig up a  Tee in the high pressure side to see what the running fuel pressure is.  

 

To begin with you can probably get by without a pressure gauge by just doing the fuel return-hose flow test first. If it won't pass a basic fuel return hose flow test then no need to even put a pressure gauge on it. 

Link to comment
6 minutes ago, Newbiebmw2021 said:

Can you show me how to make the tee fitting? 

Evening  jeremy

 

It is just a simple 5/16" hose tee, the hard part is installing it in your fuel hose if you have quick disconnects. Best way is to buy one male & one female quick disconnect (that match your existing quick disconnects)  & some 5/16" fuel hose  then make a simple snap in pressure test  set up.

Link to comment
Newbiebmw2021

Morning dr, I would assume i need to order the quick disconnects from beemer boneyard. i can get the 5/16 from autozone and the gauge 60psi from harbor freight. 

 

i will keep running the techron and buy all the parts need to do the test. 

Link to comment
Newbiebmw2021

Darn. the quick disconnects are 50 bucks. 🤦🏻maybe i can juts source one pair. 

 

maybe i can find a used pair somewhere 

Link to comment
23 minutes ago, Newbiebmw2021 said:

Darn. the quick disconnects are 50 bucks. 🤦🏻maybe i can juts source one pair. 

 

maybe i can find a used pair somewhere 

Evening  jeremy

 

Personally, I would hold off on the pressure gauge test and just run the fuel return-hose flow test first. 

 

If it won't pass a basic fuel return-hose flow test then no need to even put a pressure gauge on it. 

Link to comment
12 hours ago, Newbiebmw2021 said:

aww ok, how do I do the pressure return test?

Morning   Newbiebmw2021

 

Fuel return flow test__

 

  To do that, disconnect the fuel return hose at the mid-hose quick disconnect connector,  the hose from there running to the front should not leak if it has a good quick disconnect so just move it out of the way. 

 

Next, find a way to hold the check valve open in the rear hose quick disconnect (or remove the quick disconnect from the hose)   then  place the fuel return hose coming from the rear into a container,  then run the engine (be careful of causing a fire) , or (jumper the fuel pump relay to make the pump run).

 

 You need to see a pencil sized stream of fuel coming out of the rear fuel return hose. (in your case you need to see that decent stream of fuel for a while as your engine is running OK but might be running short of fuel under high engine loading)

 

 If you don't have enough fuel return flow then something is wrong inside the fuel tank (like split hose, or an internal leak, or poor pump output).

 

 If your motorcycle has quick disconnects then you will have to hold the little inner valve open inside the rear return hose quick disconnect to get any fuel return flow. (you do have quick disconnects)

 

Remember you are testing the the REAR fuel RETURN hose NOT the pressure hose. 

 

The fuel return hose is the "top hose" coming from the rear pressure regulator plastic fuel lines__

Link to comment
8 minutes ago, Newbiebmw2021 said:

Morning, I believe i did this test back when the bike wouldn’t run but i will try it again. 

Evening  Newbiebmw2021

 

Yes, asked you to run that way back in the beginning but that was before all your in tank hose work & reconnecting the in-tank vent & water drain hoses (who knows how much junk those let into tank before you re-connected them).   

Link to comment
Newbiebmw2021

Afternoon dr, 

i have some new interesting info. 

when i went for a ride last week the air box was full of oil and it was coming out the bottom of the throttle body ducts going to the motor. when i drained the air box it had a shitload of oil in there. i have only ridden it for like 300 miles so i think that oil was from the past. 

 

i pulled of the throttle bodies to make sure there wasn’t oil there and cleaned them a bit. 

 

It seems to be running better and i am gonna keep a eye on the air box. 

how much oil should be in there every oil change? 

there was like 2 quarts of oil in there when i emptied  it. 

Link to comment
13 hours ago, Newbiebmw2021 said:

Afternoon dr, 

i have some new interesting info. 

when i went for a ride last week the air box was full of oil and it was coming out the bottom of the throttle body ducts going to the motor. when i drained the air box it had a shitload of oil in there. i have only ridden it for like 300 miles so i think that oil was from the past. 

 

i pulled of the throttle bodies to make sure there wasn’t oil there and cleaned them a bit. 

 

It seems to be running better and i am gonna keep a eye on the air box. 

how much oil should be in there every oil change? 

there was like 2 quarts of oil in there when i emptied  it. 

Morning  Newbiebmw2021

 

There is no way to give you a defined answer as BMW doesn't give a spec. But the amount of oil that you found in the air box is way/way too much. 

 

It also depends on the mechanical health of the engine. If there is a lot of piston blow-by then that can significantly increase  crankcase pressure therefore blowing a lot more oil out of the engine ventilation system into the air box. 

 

Or, if the inner rear main oil seal is not installed correctly, or is leaking, that can add a LOT more oil to the vent system & fill the air box with oil. 

 

Or, if the crankcase is over-filled with oil that can allow more oil to blow into the vent system then into the air box.

 

Or, if the motorcycle was tipped over with engine running that can blow oil into the vent system then into the air box.    

 

If I remember correctly your motorcycle came to you with the vent hose missing & a filter (or something) used as the crankcase vent  (there might have been a reason for that that the previous owner knew about but didn't reveal to you at the time of purchase!!

 

What I can say is, with as much oil in the air box as you say then that is definitely WAY too much oil, a couple of ounces at oil change is usually a lot but that can depend on how hard you ride the motorcycle & other factors. 

 

You might lower the oil level in the crankcase a little (about 1/4 way up the sight glass with hot engine after motorcycle is on the center stand for 10 minutes) then ride the motorcycle to see if the excess oil in the air box returns.

 

 

Link to comment
Newbiebmw2021

good afternoon dr, 

so this could have been making it run like shit? I cleaned them up and it’s running better. 

 

i have the oil site glass at 1/2 full . 

 

i will keep riding it. it’s running. better. doesn’t smell as bad as it did before. i think it’s been full the whole time crazy man

Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...
Quote

 

evening dr, 

this is the test you’d like me to preform correct? is this the right test? 

 

Morning  Newbiebmw2021

 

You need to test on the rear side of the return hose that is the upper hose not the lower. 

 

You need to be very/very/very  careful testing with the hose just pointed out like your video shows as a good amount of fuel can spray out,  if it finds a spark (like starter) or spark arcing you can end up with a big ball of fire. 

Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...
37 minutes ago, Newbiebmw2021 said:

ok just seeing rhis. been tied up. 

 

question  dr. 

oul leaking at top of motor down to the side. look at the pic. 

 

Evening  Newbiebmw2021

 

You are probably going to have to clean it up then ride it & keep checking to find where the oil is coming from. 

 

In that area on the upper engine is the crankcase vent hose connection so you might start by looking at that connection.  

Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/26/2022 at 4:18 AM, dirtrider said:

Morning  Newbiebmw2021

 

You need to test on the rear side of the return hose that is the upper hose not the lower. 

 

You need to be very/very/very  careful testing with the hose just pointed out like your video shows as a good amount of fuel can spray out,  if it finds a spark (like starter) or spark arcing you can end up with a big ball of fire. 

afternoon dr, so i am still a little confused on how to do this test. do you have step by step instructions by chance? 

Link to comment
8 minutes ago, Newbiebmw2021 said:

afternoon dr, so i am still a little confused on how to do this test. do you have step by step instructions by chance? 

Afternoon Newbiebmw2021

 

If you have quick disconnects then just disconnect the upper hose, then on the hose coming from the rear hold the little internal check valve open, point the quick disconnect into a sizable container, then crank the engine & look for a pencil sized stream of fuel coming out.   

 

Be very careful in doing the above as cranking engine with fuel spraying all over is a quick way to get a BIG fire ball.  (be sure to spay that fuel into a container that will hold it & prevent it from spraying all over)

Link to comment
2 minutes ago, Newbiebmw2021 said:

If that passes what’s the next thing to check? 

Afternoon Newbiebmw2021

 

That depends on how it has been acting lately. Exactly what is is it doing at the moment?

Link to comment

intermittent missing. stumbles especially when at idle or gassing it. same as it was doing. sounds like someone is shutting my the gas off real quick then turning it back on. 

Link to comment
14 hours ago, Newbiebmw2021 said:

intermittent missing. stumbles especially when at idle or gassing it. same as it was doing. sounds like someone is shutting my the gas off real quick then turning it back on. 

Morning Newbiebmw2021

 

With all you have already done to that motorcycle about all you can do now is re-verify everything. 

 

If it passes the fuel return flow test then next thing to look at is fuel quality (makes sure that you have good fuel in the tank as who knows what got into the tank when those vent & water drain hoses were left open inside the tank). Maybe try just riding it enough to run a couple of tanks of fuel through it. Or siphon out as much fuel as you can then add a little more fuel to what is left & try riding it.

 

Adding a little Techron to each fill-up might also help but don't put a lot of Techron into the fuel system at one time as that can effect the fueling control.

 

With it also acting up at free-idle it could be something like fuel injector spray pattern as globs of fuel rather than a fine mist can cause idle stumbling. 

 

Or even something like an ignition issue causing poor fuel/air ignition.  (something  like this will be difficult to find unless you either get lucky or can find a definite problem, like loose plug wire, bad/fouled spark plug, partially plugged injector inlet screen, or ????.  

 

With your oil breather issue it is also possible that you have oil fouled spark plugs, or oil coated o2 sensor, or something related to that area.  

 

The BIG problem you are going to keep fighting is that motorcycle was a mess when you got it so who knows the last time that it ran good, or even if it ever ran good.  Your problems are not something that just started but could be deeply buried in that motorcycle's history. 

 

 

Link to comment

ok i will do the test this weekend. i have run a good amount of gas theu it. probably 4 tank fillups all with techron included. i can pull the plugs and send you a pick of them along with maybe even cleaning the injectors also. i don’t know to clean them. or i can just do one test at a time 

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...