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TB air screws are both locked tight on the housing, how do get lose?


KDeline

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Both are so tight that I am starting to deform the screwdriver slot and neither has moved a bit. First time I rode all winter long on this bike, I'm sure that has something to do with it. 10,000 miles since they were last moved, 120,000 on bike, R1100RT. Any thoughts, heat, oil, etc? Hope this is not like my tranny drain plug nightmare. Never did get that thing out.

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PB Blaster's probably the same thing, I just don't know it.

 

I'd use any oil penetrant (which wd40 is not), shoot some around the screws and leave it like previously advised.

 

I like Justice Bro's "80". That stuff works quick!

 

BTW, be prepared to replace the o-rings when they come out.

 

Bob

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Geez Ken, you have the tight issues!

 

Heat is probably a bad idea as it will rather quickly kill the O-ring that's around the LBSs, and leave a real mess in the port if you do get 'em out.

 

Presume we're talking about a situation where they're not tightened fully down on their seats, just stuck in place (1 1/2 turns out or whatever), right?

 

Presuming so, have to tried going IN, just a bit to see if they'll free up?

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Joe Frickin' Friday
Heat is probably a bad idea as it will rather quickly kill the O-ring that's around the LBSs, and leave a real mess in the port if you do get 'em out.

 

They've gotta be able to take a little heat; afterall, these things will tolerate sitting next to a smokin' hot engine and gearbox when you shut down after a ride.

 

Aluminum does have a slightly higher thermal expansion rate than brass, so heat should open things up just a smidge.

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Geez Ken, you have the tight issues!

 

Heat is probably a bad idea as it will rather quickly kill the O-ring that's around the LBSs, and leave a real mess in the port if you do get 'em out.

 

Presume we're talking about a situation where they're not tightened fully down on their seats, just stuck in place (1 1/2 turns out or whatever), right?

 

Presuming so, have to tried going IN, just a bit to see if they'll free up?

 

In or out, they don't move. I put on penetrating oil last night, I will see if there is any inprovement. I may try a little heat next.

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Joe Frickin' Friday
In or out, they don't move. I put on penetrating oil last night, I will see if there is any inprovement. I may try a little heat next.

 

Maybe just ignite the penetrating oil. crazy.gifgrin.gif

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Ken,if the soaking and heating does not work, you might try rapping them lightly with a flat tipped punch,lightly being the key word.

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In or out, they don't move. I put on penetrating oil last night, I will see if there is any inprovement. I may try a little heat next.

 

Maybe just ignite the penetrating oil. crazy.gifgrin.gif

 

 

thumbsup.gif

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Ken,if the soaking and heating does not work, you might try rapping them lightly with a flat tipped punch,lightly being the key word.

 

Any feelings about a impact driver? I would think that would be hard on the brass screws.

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If the slot is getting worn, place some vlave grinding compound in the slot before you stick your screwdriver in, it will help prevent it from slipping.

 

Good Luck - let us know what works

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Any feelings about a impact driver? I would think that would be hard on the brass screws.

 

After the heating,soaking and rapping,an impact driver would be my next choice,but be prepared to drill it out because there is a good chance the head will snap off when using the impact driver. eek.gif (maybe heat the outer housing with a heat gun before trying)

 

I wouldn't hesitate to try it since you will probably end up drilling it out anyway should all the other methods fail.

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Jerry Johnston

Maybe try breaking them loose after you've ridden and the engine is warm?

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Remove the TBs from the engine, remove all parts from the TBs that can come off and put them in the oven at about 250 F. Handle them with leather gloves (they're hot.......)and apply needed force to remove the LBSs. Then replace the LBSs and O-rings with new. Next, apply anti-seize to the new LBSs and spray the female threads with carb cleaner and blow them clean with compressed air. Install the new LBSs and balance the TBs upon reinstalling.

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Remove the TBs from the engine, remove all parts from the TBs that can come off and put them in the oven at about 250 F. Handle them with leather gloves (they're hot.......)and apply needed force to remove the LBSs. Then replace the LBSs and O-rings with new. Next, apply anti-seize to the new LBSs and spray the female threads with carb cleaner and blow them clean with compressed air. Install the new LBSs and balance the TBs upon reinstalling.

 

Any reason I can't do that with a torch while they are mounted on the bike?

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sure you can.... but think about all the plastic attached to the TB's, are you sure you want to replace all that stuff plus the injectors etc... bncry.gif just to much chance to do way more damage than necessary... although i have met people who enjoy that sort of thing from time to time grin.gif

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Remove the TBs from the engine, remove all parts from the TBs that can come off and put them in the oven at about 250 F. Handle them with leather gloves (they're hot.......)and apply needed force to remove the LBSs. Then replace the LBSs and O-rings with new. Next, apply anti-seize to the new LBSs and spray the female threads with carb cleaner and blow them clean with compressed air. Install the new LBSs and balance the TBs upon reinstalling.

 

Any reason I can't do that with a torch while they are mounted on the bike?

 

Yes...it is called an explosion.

 

If you still have problems, take the bike to Morrie Gauger's old shop in Antioch, IL off Rte 173. The guy there can fix anything on a BMW.

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No, but not really trying at this point, getting two other bikes ready for a month on the road is keeping me busy.

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