2004 bmw R1150RT front super bouncy

[Chrisdel98]

Hello! I just bought a 04 R1150RT yesterday (first touring bike and bmw) and I noticed the front end is extremely soft which causes the bike to be unstable at slow speeds. I noticed it has a shock as well as forks so I’m not sure which the culprit would be. There is no oil leaking anywhere from the forks and no residual either. So I guess my question here is which needs to be fixed/ replaced? 

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, Chrisdel98 said:

Hello! I just bought a 04 R1150RT yesterday (first touring bike and bmw) and I noticed the front end is extremely soft which causes the bike to be unstable at slow speeds. I noticed it has a shock as well as forks so I’m not sure which the culprit would be. There is no oil leaking anywhere from the forks and no residual either. So I guess my question here is which needs to be fixed/ replaced? 

Afternoon  Chrisdel98

 

The forks have no damping. The oil in the fork tubes is ONLY for lubrication, there is no valving or restrictions inside the fork tubes.  

 

All the front damping is handled by the shock absorber, nothing from  the forks.  

 

So if the front is too soft then either a shock replacement and/or a shock spring replacement. (they usually come as a combined package)

[Paul De]

 You should provide more info like how many miles are on the bike.  The shock is doing the damping work as the forks (stanchion tubes and sliders) essentially are there to connect the front wheel to the handlebars, as is the case for any BMW with Telelever front suspension.  While the Telelever forks have oil in them it is there to control corrosion of the stanchions and to keep the seals and bushings lubricated

 

Guessing that your shock is worn out and the fact that you don't see any seepage might have been a great cleaning job by the previous owner to get rid of the telltale oil wetted shock.   Rebuilding the OEM I don't think is possible and you can go low dollar and buy a used OEM off the internet, but by now these shocks likely have a bunch of miles on them too.  There are third party premium shocks which will make your bike's ride wonderful, but come at a significant price. Once in a while third party premium shocks come on the used market, but are snapped up fast.  If you find and want to go for used premium shocks verify when they were rebuilt last as rebuilding those can get pricey if they need more than the damping fluid replaced,

[Chrisdel98]

Okay, so the bike has 101,XXX miles on it. So rebuilding the forks would be pointless then? 

[Chrisdel98]

Also, the shocks are yellow so I believe they are ohlins 

[dirtrider]

9 minutes ago, Chrisdel98 said:

Okay, so the bike has 101,XXX miles on it. So rebuilding the forks would be pointless then? 

Afternoon  Chrisdel98

 

Yes, that will ONLY replace the oil & possible new seals if you choose to do that. 

[dirtrider]

4 minutes ago, Chrisdel98 said:

Also, the shocks are yellow so I believe they are ohlins 

Afternoon  Chrisdel98

 

If they are Ohlins then they are probably rebuildable, if they were custom built for the previous owner then the shock  might have a lighter spring if the owner was of light stature. That alone will give a soft front suspension action if you weigh more than the weight they were built for. 

[Chrisdel98]

I see. so now that I know it is the shock the first that I’ll probably try doing is taking it out the bike before I start calling or trying to buy another one 

[dirtrider]

13 minutes ago, Chrisdel98 said:

I see. so now that I know it is the shock the first that I’ll probably try doing is taking it out the bike before I start calling or trying to buy another one 

Afternoon  Chrisdel98

 

First, try to figure out if it is fact an Ohlins, if so then you probably want to have that one rebuilt as those are premium shocks that are worth rebuilding.   

[Paul De]

 

 

46 minutes ago, Chrisdel98 said:

Also, the shocks are yellow so I believe they are ohlins 

Hi Cgrisdel98,

 

Yes could well be Ohlins.  Before tearing out the shocks for rebuild you should verify the damping setting on the shock.  Ohlins shocks for the RT allow rebound damping adjustment front and rear and the damping can be dialed down to near zero damping. It should be easy to see the black wheel adjuster at the end of the shock right before the mounting eye assembly.   If memory serves the starting point is about about mid way from maximum damping to minimal/zero damping which is something like 14 -18 clicks from maximum damping.   Another way is to adjust the damping to one of the extremes and count the clicks to the other extreme then return to half the clicks from one of the extremes.  There is an oddity to keep in mind.  When going to minimal damping the click feeling will fade and then you will feel/hear no clicks, but the knob can still rotate.  Stop when this happens as you are at the minimal damping extreme setting.  When rotating toward maximum damping the click sound and feel remains constant until the knob stops rotating and that is the maximum damping setting.

 

The goal in setting damping on a touring bike not ridden aggressively is to minimize damping without getting the bouncing you are experiencing.  This will give you the plushest ride while maintaining good tire contact on the pavement.  Aggressive cornering would likely require more damping to keep the bike's chassis stable.

[Chrisdel98]

Okay so I just got back from being out of town and the shock is definitely blown! Residual oil all over it (you can tell they tried to clean it up a bit) so depending on price to rebuild im either going to buy a used oem or contact ohlins

[Lowndes]

Chrisdel98,

 

You might try Ted Porter at The Beemer Shop in CA.  https://www.beemershop.com/

 

They are one of the largest distributors for Ohlin, Wilbur and a bunch of others.  He is super helpful, has been doing suspensions a long time, and will ask you a bunch of questions.

 

I've purchased two sets of Wilbur units for two different BMW's from him on his recommendation and am very happy with the results of both.  Before that first BMW and the Wilbur units, I didn't know or care about suspension.   As long as the tires had some air and there were springs on both ends it was good.  Now I know the difference, it's a big difference and about half is improved safety for you.  

 

Springs are usually color coded, notched, or numbered for spring weight.  Ted can help sort that to see if it is too soft for you, the bike, and all your usual riding gear.  

 

Changing out the "shocks" on both bikes (both with telelever) was not a difficult driveway job if you have some simple tools.  Clean, inspect, and refill those front fork tubes while you're at it.  There were bushings inside both of my bikes that needed inspection. 

 

You might get a Clymer manual for your bike.  My Clymer, No M503-3 says it covers the R1150RT, '02-04'.  Check eBay.  I use it all the time.  Even if you only do very simple stuff it's well worth it.

[Rinkydink]

If in fact Ohlins do NOT waste money on an OEM used or otherwise. Rebuild and you’ll be amazed. 

[Paul De]

12 hours ago, Rinkydink said:

If in fact Ohlins do NOT waste money on an OEM used or otherwise. Rebuild and you’ll be amazed. 

+1  Unless your motorcycle fun budget is zeroed out, the ride quality and handling improvement over OEM make rebuild a better value.  Get an estimate.

 

OK, so if you can't swing the cash to rebuild the Ohlins for this riding season, buy a non-leaking OEM front shock for cheap (under $50) and go ride.  Don't sell the Ohlins front and hopefully you have an Ohlins rear shock installed as well.  Do create a savings plan to budget for rebuilding both and put the Ohlins shocks back on after getting them rebuilt.  I can't emphasis enough that the Ohlins suspension when working correctly transforms the ride quality of this vintage (1100 & 1150) of Oilhead.

 

[taylor1]

If you decide for a used OEM, I have one with@ 30,000 miles not leaking you can have for the cost of shipping.

[Lowndes]

3 hours ago, Paul De said:

+1  Unless your motorcycle fun budget is zeroed out, the ride quality and handling improvement over OEM make rebuild a better value.  Get an estimate.

 

OK, so if you can't swing the cash to rebuild the Ohlins for this riding season, buy a non-leaking OEM front shock for cheap (under $50) and go ride.  Don't sell the Ohlins front and hopefully you have an Ohlins rear shock installed as well.  Do create a savings plan to budget for rebuilding both and put the Ohlins shocks back on after getting them rebuilt.  I can't emphasis enough that the Ohlins suspension when working correctly transforms the ride quality of this vintage (1100 & 1150) of Oilhead.

 

 Well said and very good advice.

[Dave P]

ChrisDel- I just happen to have a non leaking OEM front shock from my 96 RT (held onto it after putting an Ohlins on the front) If you want a temporary functioning front shock, I'd give it to you if you pick up the shipping from 13152. Not doing me any good. Get it out of my garage! Dave

[strataj]

I too have a set from my 02R1150RT, the front may be ok but I know the rear isn't,  that why I went with Wilbers.  I live east of Dallas, TX happy to give it to you.  

[Lowndes]

I have one, too, for a '99 R1100S.  It's a little different, might not work on the 1150RT.  Maybe 30K on it.  I'm in Atlanta if that's closer to you.  It's in a Wilbur box in the basement somewhere.  

 

Think of it this way, tho, there's a good reason a bunch of these OEM units are sitting around. (check eBay, too)  Once you ride a bike with a properly setup quality suspension YOU will know, too.

[Rinkydink]

On 2/15/2022 at 9:37 AM, Paul De said:

+1  Unless your motorcycle fun budget is zeroed out, the ride quality and handling improvement over OEM make rebuild a better value.  Get an estimate.

 

OK, so if you can't swing the cash to rebuild the Ohlins for this riding season, buy a non-leaking OEM front shock for cheap (under $50) and go ride.  Don't sell the Ohlins front and hopefully you have an Ohlins rear shock installed as well.  Do create a savings plan to budget for rebuilding both and put the Ohlins shocks back on after getting them rebuilt.  I can't emphasis enough that the Ohlins suspension when working correctly transforms the ride quality of this vintage (1100 & 1150) of Oilhead.

 

I just didn’t want him spending retail on an OEM when he could get a better aftermarket shock.