Shifting problem after installing Wunderlich foot pegs

[Randyjaco]

I just installed the Wunderlich lowering pegs on my 2017 RT. I dialed everything to my desired position and all is comfortable. While riding, I noticed downshifting requires significantly more force than up shifting. I thought that I would just adjust the shifter vs the splines until I noticed the big plastic box  on the engine, which I suspect is part of the mechanism for the power shift. Not having a manual, I didn't want to try and disassemble that. I looked at several videos, including Boxflyer's, and didn't see any reference to my problem. Any suggestions on how to get the bike to down shift a little easier?

 

TIA

Randy

[Randyjaco]

Well, I solved the problem. Referencing Boxflyer's video. I found that my shift lever was just shy of 11.5". I raised the lever to @ 11.75" and the problem went away. I am surprised that a quarter of an inch makes that much difference. I sure don't see any potential for binding, but my initial change was 1/8" and that helped. Another 1/8" solved the problem, so the length is critical for some reason.

I think Wunderlich could do a better job on their instructions.

[Boxflyer]

@Randyjaco I just reinstalled the Knight Design Drop Pegs on my newly acquired 2017RT.  I found that on the RH side, the brake pedal can be adjusted down to the same 11.5 inches from a level floor as the LH side shifter horizontal center line.

To do this, I loosened the jam nut on the linkage between the clevis holding the short end of the brake pedal and the small rear hydraulic cylinder.  After the jam nut is broken loose and run up as far as you can, I removed the cotter pin and the pivot pin in the clevis that connects the brake pedal and the piston linkage.

Then, turning the clevis to the right, to run it up the threads towards the cylinder as far as you could have run the jam nut up, snug the two of them together so that the clevis is properly aligned with the short end of the brake pedal.  

Now you have approximately equivalent lowered foot controls on one side and the other.

 

I guess I need to do a quick YouTube video of this like I did for the shift lever.

Hope this helps.

[alegerlotz]

I found that after installing my lowering footpegs and adjusting the shifter it was a little tough to shift in certain circumstances.  At the time that bike had about 38K miles on it in all types of weather.

 

The fix for me was the remove both shift mechanism rods and clean/lube the ends of them (and the balls on which they pivot).  After that... smooth as butter.

 

 

[old_farmer]

I didn't realize that you could tinker with the brake linkage to get it to work better with lowered pegs. I ended up buying an adjustable lever from Illium. Expensive, but a nice piece of kit.

[Randyjaco]

I learned something while checking over the bike yesterday. I had earlier installed a kickstand enlarging plate. I noticed some strange wear patterns on the plate. Yup, the plate had been interfering with the rear shift linking. So I made some modifications to the plate and now there is full clearance. 

On my F bike I had a similar problem with interference with the center stand.

So, word to the wise, if you have one of those enlarger plates, keep a watchful eye out to see if it interferes with other parts of your bike.

[Dirtmerchant]

On 12/28/2021 at 9:16 PM, Boxflyer said:

I just reinstalled the Knight Design Drop Pegs on my newly acquired 2017RT.  I found that on the RH side, the brake pedal can be adjusted down to the same 11.5 inches from a level floor as the LH side shifter horizontal center line.

To do this, I loosened the jam nut on the linkage between the clevis holding the short end of the brake pedal and the small rear hydraulic cylinder.  After the jam nut is broken loose and run up as far as you can, I removed the cotter pin and the pivot pin in the clevis that connects the brake pedal and the piston linkage.

Then, turning the clevis to the right, to run it up the threads towards the cylinder as far as you could have run the jam nut up, snug the two of them together so that the clevis is properly aligned with the short end of the brake pedal.  

Now you have approximately equivalent lowered foot controls on one side and the other.

 

I guess I need to do a quick YouTube video of this like I did for the shift lever.

Hope this helps.

@Boxflyer  Did you have any issues with the rear brakes dragging after making the rear brake pedal adjustment?  

[Boxflyer]

No, I did not.

There have been several folks that have had dragging rear brakes lately, and none of them have done this adjustment of the pedal.

I'm not sure if there is anything in common between these issues, but I didn't have any problems because of the pedal adjustment.

[Bernie]

2 hours ago, Boxflyer said:

No, I did not.

There have been several folks that have had dragging rear brakes lately, and none of them have done this adjustment of the pedal.

I'm not sure if there is anything in common between these issues, but I didn't have any problems because of the pedal adjustment.

Seized sliding pins on the rear brake calipers will cause the brake to drag.

[Randyjaco]

I did not have a rear brake dragging problem either. And I concur with Bernie about the brake pins. In fact, I usually put a slight polish on those pins, along with a small quantity of brake grease on those pins any time I change pads.