Transmission Seal Replacement

[RPG]

Continuing work on a '03 RT, I need to replace all the seals on the transmission. One in particular is in a very deep/narrow recess. (clutch slave cylinder).

 

I was wondering what the best tool/process is for removing that?

 

#2 in the Diagram

 

 

Thanks very much. RPG

 

 

[dirtrider]

6 hours ago, RPG said:

Continuing work on a '03 RT, I need to replace all the seals on the transmission. One in particular is in a very deep/narrow recess. (clutch slave cylinder).

 

I was wondering what the best tool/process is for removing that?

 

#2 in the Diagram

 

Afternoon Rick

 

Best process (least risk) is to take the transmission apart & drive it out from the front. (not what you wanted to hear)

 

I usually use a long small drill bit with a dedicated depth stop (to limit drill-through to JUST the seal shell thickness, no more). I usually drill two opposed holes so I can work the seal out evenly.

 

Then use a slide hammer with a small sheet metal screw welded to the end. (just screw it in a couple of threads then work the slide hammer).

 

If you can find (or make) long enough small diameter sheet metal screws you can probably pry it out against the rear case face.  

[waynerd]

Also, isn't there a proper installation depth for that seal (not just pushed in until it bottoms out)?  You may know that already, but wanted to call it to your attention.  I seem to remember findng discussion about this when I was replacing my slave cylinder, and contemplating changing this seal...ultimately deciding against it because it looked like it was going to be a real pain working in such a tight space. 

[RPG]

16 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Afternoon Rick

 

Best process (least risk) is to take the transmission apart & drive it out from the front. (not what you wanted to hear)

 

I usually use a long small drill bit with a dedicated depth stop (to limit drill-through to JUST the seal shell thickness, no more). I usually drill two opposed holes so I can work the seal out evenly.

 

Then use a slide hammer with a small sheet metal screw welded to the end. (just screw it in a couple of threads then work the slide hammer).

 

If you can find (or make) long enough small diameter sheet metal screws you can probably pry it out against the rear case face.  

Morning D.R.,

 

I'm familiar with the sheet metal screw process so I'll go that route.

 

Yes, I would prefer not to split the tranny apart as there are no other reported problems. AND, nice to see an input shaft with over 100k in perfect shape. :)

 

Thanks very much,

 

RPG

[RPG]

14 hours ago, waynerd said:

Also, isn't there a proper installation depth for that seal (not just pushed in until it bottoms out)?  You may know that already, but wanted to call it to your attention.  I seem to remember findng discussion about this when I was replacing my slave cylinder, and contemplating changing this seal...ultimately deciding against it because it looked like it was going to be a real pain working in such a tight space. 

I usually measure seal depth of any seal that I'm replacing, but thanks for the reminder. I need to change this seal as it appears trans fluid went past the seal forward to soil the clutch, (and the clutch is slipping).

 

Thanks,

 

RPG

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, RPG said:

I usually measure seal depth of any seal that I'm replacing, but thanks for the reminder. I need to change this seal as it appears trans fluid went past the seal forward to soil the clutch, (and the clutch is slipping).

 

Thanks,

 

RPG

Morning rick

 

Just insert your driver (deep socket or pipe) into the seal hole prior to removing the seal, then use a Sharpe or wrap of masking tape to mark the seal depth at the seal hole outer face on the driver.  Then drive the new seal in until the mark align with the case outer face again. 

[RPG]

1 hour ago, dirtrider said:

Morning rick

 

Just insert your driver (deep socket or pipe) into the seal hole prior to removing the seal, then use a Sharpe or wrap of masking tape to mark the seal depth at the seal hole outer face on the driver.  Then drive the new seal in until the mark align with the case outer face again. 

That's a great idea D.R.

Thanks very much

[Scott9999]

" I would prefer not to split the tranny apart as there are no other reported problems. AND, nice to see an input shaft with over 100k in perfect shape. "

 

I'm no mechanic or mechanical expert, and others here can correct me if I'm wrong, but I've always assumed when I lose a seal that the root cause (absent abuse, overfilling, etc.) is usually the bearings that the seal is protecting.   Of course, the only way to know for sure is to break the transmission open, in which case, you're probably going to end up replacing the bearings anyhow, plus any shift forks or gears worn beyond spec.

 

Worn seals at 100K miles?   I'd bet that if you get the seals replaced, that you'll have some other major issue that requires you to R&R the transmission within 20K miles.  How long were you hoping that this fix lasts?