No win situation

[Scott9999]

Just getting back into riding after a long layoff, and my mind's working overtime trying to see and avoid hazards, particularly so, because my basic skills are still a work in progress.

 

I'm headed towards my home on a state highway that passes from nearby Washington state into Idaho.  City traffic howls down that single lane highway at 55 to 65 MPH.  There are no lights or stop signs along this highway for miles, and it's intended that way.  Rush hour traffic looks like California rush hour, with cars running frequently less than 3 car lengths behind each other, i.e. riding the bumper of the guy ahead.   The road into the lake area where I live involves a left turn off that highway, with no dedicated left turn lane or passing lanes to the right.  People on this highway hate interruptions, like a vehicle turning left, forcing them to slow down or stop.  So, they have developed a nearly universal habit of passing to the right as the car ahead waits for a break in oncoming traffic, or a chance to complete the left hand turn.  They don't break, pause, or slow down much at all while doing so.  The shoulder is not paved, so cars will occasionally hit the dirt, but usually avoid that by passing within inches of the vehicle turning left.

 

So, I'm approaching that intersection for the first time on my RT, from the city direction (i.e.Spokane), at dusk, and all of that information processes in a flash, i.e. "MAJOR REAR END HAZERD AHEAD!!!"    I accelerated quickly ahead of traffic to create some stopping distance, and then hit my left hand turn signal flashing.  I began a long, slow weave, trying to get traffic behind me to slow down as I approached for a left hand turn at my intersection.   The guy behind me doesn't slow down at all.  As I came to a stop,  I cheated towards the middle of the highway (rather than against the double yellow line, as I would normally do), trying to dissuade vehicles behind me from passing to my right.  My real fear is not the guy behind me, though if he's drunk, drugged, or simple not paying attention, he could certainly rear end me.  It's the second or third cars behind him I fear more, because they  screened by the driver ahead of them, and may not see me until the guy behind me swerves right to pass me, when they are on top of me.

 

Oncoming traffic prevents my turn, and I remain stopped while trying to do so.  The guy behind me hasn't dropped speed at all, it's like the old "Star Trek" intro, with stars rushing by, but in this case it's a bundle of headlights approaching behind me at warp speed.  My worst fear is realized, the guy behind me swerves at the last second to the right around me, leaning on his horn for emphasis as he goes by.  The guy behind him slams on his brakes and also swerves, and that's about as much as I saw.  That's because when the first guy swerved, I made a snap decision that oncoming traffic was less a threat, being on a nimble BMW, than the *@#R$@!$*#$@#'s behind me.  I turned between two oncoming cars passing at speed, with about 2 car lengths between them, i.e. just popped the clutch and bounced, trying to avoid hitting the drainage ditch along the side of the road,, because I'd drifted by my turn by 5-10 feet while trying to avoid being hit.  (The oncoming car didn't appreciate my brilliant move.  Face it; everyone on that highway hated me and wanted me gone or dead, or whatever.😖) 

 

Lesson learned?   I ain't going that way again during rush hour traffic, no way, no how.   🙄   I had briefly considered trying to continue down the road and U-turn in a safer location, but my momentum was already slowed to the point that I'd have a difficult time getting ahead and avoiding being hit, and an erratic move by me wasn't going to help. (Plus, I really didn't know what oncoming traffic looked like until I was at the intersection, i.e. if I could have completed the turn without stopping, it would have been "no drama").     For additional context, the intersection of which I speak is between two other busy intersections less than a mile apart on that highway, and trains run constantly adjacent to that highway, blocking those two intersections, meaning long traffic lines there, impatient drivers, and anywhere on that stretch is hazardous, mainly because people won't obey the traffic laws (plus, Idaho's transportation department is 10 years behind the power curve, due to the explosive growth in population and housing in this area).

 

Anyhow, sometimes there are "no win" situations, even when you see them coming and try to avoid them.  There's ALWAYS a better decision one can make, after the fact, in retrospect, but by and large, real life ain't like that, i.e. life happens fast.  We do the best we can to stay safe, and accept the risks of riding in and around multi-ton vehicles.

[LBump]

Reads like too many people have already infiltrated the area... and customary local driving habits are being tested!

 

Your U turn sounds like the safe way to go. 

 

[bhulse]

Scott:  As I read your detailed account I recall my personal mental list consisting of three columns that routinely pops up in my mind.

The columns are labeled:  Lived, Injured and Died.  I'd put your 'No Win Situation' into my first column and call it a good day!  There are always alternatives.  You taking another route home is a GOOD one.  

[Grouchy]

I wouldn't be comfortable in anything less than a Bradley Tank in that situation, much less on a motorcycle.  No shame in taking the safer route and living to ride another day.

When I started riding again after decades of not riding, I stayed off highways and away from rush hour traffic till I was comfortable with my skill level.  I still pay attention to heavy traffic areas, weather, etc. and plan accordingly.

Heavy traffic or fast traffic I can handle, heavy fast traffic I avoid.😕

[roadscholar]

I live in a part of town that's become increasingly populated to the point where more cars inhabit the roadways than they were designed for. This causes impatient drivers to pull out in front of oncoming traffic, tailgate, run red lights, and generally drive like asshats. Riding a streetbike in those situations is a scary proposition and left turns whether by you or oncoming cars are two of the most dangerous. Remember motorcycles should be fun, you have the option of not stopping on a two lane crowded hwy, keep moving and turn around when its convenient, and safe. Or get a GS and stay off the pavement : )

 

 

[lkraus]

Ride beyond your turn and do a U-turn in a safer spot is probably your best bet.

 

Another option is to use the right half of the lane and start slowing down wayyyy before the turn.  You are stopping a whole train of cars, and trains need distance to stop. The guy behind you is concerned about  traffic on his tail, too, so you need to get the whole line of vehicles slowed. Then If or when the first one back swerves to the berm, the next driver has time to react. 

[TSConver]

Yeah don't speed up instead slow down earlier sbf force the traffic to slowdown with you.

[9Mary7]

Glad you survived rush hour on Hwy 53 Scott.......... if a gap in oncoming traffic doesn't line up with your turn movement there is no shame in going past and waiting for a clear spot to U-turn. This concept is a cornerstone in heavy traffic survival, hence my spring practice sessions!!

[Rob Nowell]

17 hours ago, LBump said:

Reads like too many people have already infiltrated the area... and customary local driving habits are being tested!

 

You are correct:  The Hayden - C d'A - Post Falls area has exploded over the years.  Traffic is nothing like my days in the vicinity (35+ years ago).

[Scott9999]

5 hours ago, 9Mary7 said:

Glad you survived rush hour on Hwy 53 Scott.......... if a gap in oncoming traffic doesn't line up with your turn movement there is no shame in going past and waiting for a clear spot to U-turn. This concept is a cornerstone in heavy traffic survival, hence my spring practice sessions!!

Well, I got onto the Hwy from the Prairie/Beck crossing.  I knew as soon as I finished the turn that I might have a problem, but I honestly expected traffic to slow behind me (i.e. as it usually does that when I slow in our car, and usually, there's a easy break in oncoming traffic, as well).   That's why I accelerated after I made the turn on to HWY 53 to put space between me and the guy behind me, immediately hit my left turn blinker, and started weaving and slowing down for the next half mile.  However, the lead guy behind me wasn't having it, just kept on at probably 60+ mph, and leaned on his horn as he passed me at close quarters, giving the cars behind him no time to see me or adjust as he whipped around.  It was also dusk, with those car lights, the overcast haze, and western sun in the mirror behind me, it was tough to see much more than a mass of lights coming at me fast.   Like I said, I won't do that again, in that kind of traffic.  I could have taken Prairie over to Pleasant View, and come in on HWY 53 from the East.  However, making the left off Pleasant View to HWY 53 is a pulse quickening thing as well.  (Or, of course, I could have just skipped my turn and pulled a "U", further down the road.)

 

They just need to add a light or overpass at either the Pleasant View or Prairie/Beck crossings, because the HWY 53 wall of traffic traffic combined with 15 trains coming through there a day parallel to Hwy 53,  backing up traffic at both those intersections, is going to eventually get someone killed, that's not "maybe", and it won't be a close thing.  🙄

[Lowndes]

60-65 mph around here will get you in trouble for going too slow on the right shoulder.  

 

Get some REALLY BRIGHT aux brake lights, "aircraft landing lights" with STROBES, mounted on the rear and "blind 'em".  It's all about apparent "SIZE".  If you appear bigger than they are, they instinctively acquiesce (yield & avoid) to your presence.  Nothing personal on their part, it's just survival.   Do NOT count on their benevolence, DEMAND RESPECT, and fool them if you have to.  Light up like a Fire Tuck on the way to a five alarm fire and they will meekly avoid you.  "The meek shall inherit the earth",  but the BRAZEN will survive.

[Rinkydink]

I agree with Ikraus and TSConver. Slow down 1/2 mile b4 your left turn. Yes traffic following will be cussing you but it beats getting asspacked. You can always pass the car on the right and do your uturn if it still doesn’t feel right. Ride safe out there. 

[roadscholar]

4 hours ago, Lowndes said:

60-65 mph around here will get you in trouble for going too slow on the right shoulder.  

 

Get some REALLY BRIGHT aux brake lights, "aircraft landing lights" with STROBES, mounted on the rear and "blind 'em".  It's all about apparent "SIZE".  If you appear bigger than they are, they instinctively acquiesce (yield & avoid) to your presence.  Nothing personal on their part, it's just survival.   Do NOT count on their benevolence, DEMAND RESPECT, and fool them if you have to.  Light up like a Fire Tuck on the way to a five alarm fire and they will meekly avoid you.  "The meek shall inherit the earth",  but the BRAZEN will survive.

 

That really does work. One year at the 12 Hours of Sebring we had a bank of 4 huge Pro rally lights mounted on the hood of a GTU 911 that turned night into day (were one of the slower cars in the race), In night practice prototypes were moving over to give me the line for the hairpin because they thought we were faster so I took it. Of course on exit they'd make it a real close pass to let you know they weren't happy about it : )

[Lowndes]

9 hours ago, Rinkydink said:

... Slow down 1/2 mile b4 your left turn....

 

The problem with this is that if you slow down unnecessarily for no aparent reason (too far in advance of your turn), THAT really does make them mad and less likely to be "courteous" when you do slow and/or stop for the turn. 

 

I would turn on the obnoxiously bright and rapidly flashing turn signal  "B4"  touching the brakes.  That gives you the chance to see if they recognize what you are doing and are slowing or not.  If they aren't slowing it's time for a "crazy Ivan" move and/or light braking (brake lights) to see if the gap widens.  If not, they are oblivious, or are trying to intimidate.  You decide how to handle that.

 

 

 

 

[wbw6cos]

Plus one on The Crazy Ivan.  

 

I think THESE BRAKE LIGHTS would be a good start.  Not confirmed, but I believe the Gwinnett County, GA H/D motor units have something similar.  About a mile away, I saw them being activated (flashes, then solid) and thought he was lighting someone up, but the County uses blue lights.  Very impressed with the conspicuity for just braking; maybe police agencies get a different version for law enforcement -vs- civillian.  Whelen does the emergency lights rather well these days.  That is based on what I have seen, around me, and not behind me!  

 

On my RT, I added Billie Jr. which tied into the CANopener I had previously installed for the Darla lights.  The Billie Jr. light is very bright.  I also have the OEM LED brake light in my top case.

 

Your kilometers may vary, as they say.  In other countries.

[Hosstage]

In those situations I also throw an arm out, old school left turn indicator, it seems to help get attention. Then when they rip past illegally on the right shoulder, I give them the finger. Helps me get through my day.

[Scott9999]

7 hours ago, wbw6cos said:

Plus one on The Crazy Ivan.  

 

I think THESE BRAKE LIGHTS would be a good start.  Not confirmed, but I believe the Gwinnett County, GA H/D motor units have something similar.  About a mile away, I saw them being activated (flashes, then solid) and thought he was lighting someone up, but the County uses blue lights.  Very impressed with the conspicuity for just braking; maybe police agencies get a different version for law enforcement -vs- civillian.  Whelen does the emergency lights rather well these days.  That is based on what I have seen, around me, and not behind me!  

 

On my RT, I added Billie Jr. which tied into the CANopener I had previously installed for the Darla lights.  The Billie Jr. light is very bright.  I also have the OEM LED brake light in my top case.

 

Your kilometers may vary, as they say.  In other countries.

I had full law enforcement Whelen lights on my first BMW (RT-P).  When I removed them all, I still had the brackets for the front and rear lights, and converted the rear to red LEDs tied into the brake lights.  They were ovals similar to what big rigs used, and were very "distinctive" on the California highways.   The 2018 RT's have some pretty good rear lighting, nothing like the little "red buttons" of days gone by.  I didn't expect to need to supplement them, but I'm rethinking that now.   Still if the aggressive-driving asshat behind me intends to do what he did, I can't stop a man from being an asshat, whether I'm in a car, truck, or on a motorcycle.  I don't think visibility was the issue.  Unless I decide to mount klieg lights to the rear, and blast 'em upon his approach, I can't do much but put myself in a better position.  (Of course, aside from being illegal, there's the moral issue of actually causing an accident with my road-rage-lights, or worse (we all carry around here, ya know?).😖🤦‍♂️   

 

As I said in the title, there are really "no win" situations where all you can do is mitigate the damage, or minimize the risk.

 

So, yeah, I'll look into some options for a pair of horizontal bars, somewhere across the back, over the winter.  Whelen's are the most expensive things around, so I'll be looking for something a bit cheaper.  If I can't find a CANBUS compatible solution, then that opens a whole 'nuther can of worms I'd rather avoid if I can.

[Lowndes]

Scott,

 

This is what the rear end of my K12RS looks like with the brake lights ON:

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/9gUFeX6daiNUTnN56

 

 

I put the brightest, red #1157 LED bulb I could find (675 lumens) in the bike's tail/brake light:

 

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/motorcycle-brake-light-bulb/1157-led-boat-and-rv-light-bulb-dual-function-28-smd-led-tower-bay15d-retrofit-675-lumens/2400/?make=11&model=2839&scc_id=1946&year=2000#/attributes/13   $7.95 ea

 

Then I added the red  "spot" LED and the two side strips below the tag:

 

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-wired-bolts/bolt-beam-12mm-led-light/1494/   $2.95 ea

 

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/grille-and-surface-mount-strobe-lights/low-profile-grille-and-surface-mount-led-light-head-18w/3458/7452/#/attributes/13  $24.95 ea

 

I put the spot and the two strips on separate programmable inline modulators to contrast with conflicting rapid blink rates for maximum eye and attention getting effect.

 

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/single-color-dimmer-switches/single-color-led-controller-with-dynamic-modes/1082/2573/  $6.95 ea

 

Some will say this is too annoying.  I say better for both of us for you to the temporarilly mildly annoyed than have the slightest rear end collision (waiting on the cops, insurance claims, etc, etc).  

 

 

[Scott9999]

10 hours ago, Lowndes said:

Scott,

 

This is what the rear end of my K12RS looks like with the brake lights ON:

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/9gUFeX6daiNUTnN56

 

 

I put the brightest, red #1157 LED bulb I could find (675 lumens) in the bike's tail/brake light:

 

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/motorcycle-brake-light-bulb/1157-led-boat-and-rv-light-bulb-dual-function-28-smd-led-tower-bay15d-retrofit-675-lumens/2400/?make=11&model=2839&scc_id=1946&year=2000#/attributes/13   $7.95 ea

 

Then I added the red  "spot" LED and the two side strips below the tag:

 

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-wired-bolts/bolt-beam-12mm-led-light/1494/   $2.95 ea

 

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/grille-and-surface-mount-strobe-lights/low-profile-grille-and-surface-mount-led-light-head-18w/3458/7452/#/attributes/13  $24.95 ea

 

I put the spot and the two strips on separate programmable inline modulators to contrast with conflicting rapid blink rates for maximum eye and attention getting effect.

 

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/single-color-dimmer-switches/single-color-led-controller-with-dynamic-modes/1082/2573/  $6.95 ea

 

Some will say this is too annoying.  I say better for both of us for you to the temporarilly mildly annoyed than have the slightest rear end collision (waiting on the cops, insurance claims, etc, etc).  

 

 

I dunno, at this point I'm kind of considering those cool Red LED strips, and fashioning them into a plaque on the back, in the shape of a red flashing "black rifle", SBR, of course.  🤣🤣😁

 

Edit:   I had to click on your link to see the dynamic effect of those lights, and wow, those are AWESOME!   Going to definitely bookmark those for my "winter work" list.  Thanks!

That looks like a inexpensive, easy solution.  I assume that you just screwed in the surface mounted strips to the fender.  Can you tell me:

1) Spot: Red, 6000K, 4000K, or 2700K?

2) Strips:   I assume you went Red there, too.  Would it be possible to hook up the Amber/Red to the turn signals and tail lights?

3) LED Controller:  I assume power routed from bike, to controller, to the lights, with a signal wire from tail lights to the controller, or the lights?  Is there a guide to reference on this?

 

Actually, if you're looking for "up" clicks, I think a lot of forum members would enjoy a write up on this.  (If you don't do it, maybe I will, if I can figure out how to do it.) 

[John177]

Thank God nothing happened to you!

[Lowndes]

17 hours ago, Scott9999 said:

I dunno, at this point I'm kind of considering those cool Red LED strips, and fashioning them into a plaque on the back, in the shape of a red flashing "black rifle", SBR, of course.  🤣🤣😁

 

Edit:   I had to click on your link to see the dynamic effect of those lights, and wow, those are AWESOME!   Going to definitely bookmark those for my "winter work" list.  Thanks!

That looks like a inexpensive, easy solution.  I assume that you just screwed in the surface mounted strips to the fender.  Can you tell me:

1) Spot: Red, 6000K, 4000K, or 2700K?

2) Strips:   I assume you went Red there, too.  Would it be possible to hook up the Amber/Red to the turn signals and tail lights?

3) LED Controller:  I assume power routed from bike, to controller, to the lights, with a signal wire from tail lights to the controller, or the lights?  Is there a guide to reference on this?

 

Actually, if you're looking for "up" clicks, I think a lot of forum members would enjoy a write up on this.  (If you don't do it, maybe I will, if I can figure out how to do it.) 

 Scott,

 

1) "Spot: Red" is just "red".  The K (Kelvin) numbers are just for the "white" lights, to denote the "warm" (yellow), Natural, and "cool" (slightly bluish).

 

 

 

2) Yes, red surface mount strips:

 

 

3) The wiring is very simple: just splice in to the brake light and ground wire with the controller (red to brake light wire and black to ground).  I used the "water resistant" crimp connectors.  Also put a dab of silicone sealant in the ends of the white sheath where the wires enter and leave to keep moisture out.

 

 

The wiring schematic looks a little messy but that's just because of my crappy drafting skills.  It could be better but not by me.  Sorry.

 

 

My handiwork from 3 years ago:

 

 

I put in the blade connectors in case a modulator failed so I wouldn't have to disassemble the entire rear end of the bike again.

[Scott9999]

9 hours ago, Lowndes said:

 Scott,

 

1) "Spot: Red" is just "red".  The K (Kelvin) numbers are just for the "white" lights, to denote the "warm" (yellow), Natural, and "cool" (slightly bluish).

 

 

 

2) Yes, red surface mount strips:

 

 

3) The wiring is very simple: just splice in to the brake light and ground wire with the controller (red to brake light wire and black to ground).  I used the "water resistant" crimp connectors.  Also put a dab of silicone sealant in the ends of the white sheath where the wires enter and leave to keep moisture out.

 

 

The wiring schematic looks a little messy but that's just because of my crappy drafting skills.  It could be better but not by me.  Sorry.

 

 

My handiwork from 3 years ago:

 

 

I put in the blade connectors in case a modulator failed so I wouldn't have to disassemble the entire rear end of the bike again.

PERFECT.  Mods need to add this to the RT Tech library. 👍

 

This may be a dumb question, but the K12RS bikes ran from 1997-2005?   Does your bike have CANBUS running the electrical systems?  My concern with anything that I play with, electronically on my RT, will end up throwing codes because CANBUS conflicts.  Just wondering if your wiring had to dodge that hurdle.  Thanks.

 

Edit:  The vendor sells a resister designed to mimic filament bulb resistance to fool the computer.  I may have to add this.  (wrong application)

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/led-light-load-resistor-kit-led-turn-signal-hyper-flash-warning-fix/190/831/?accessory_of=2400-recommended

[Lowndes]

Scott,

 

Not canbus on my K.  That's a complication I know nothing about.  Have not had to climb that learning curve yet.

 

SuperBright does sell LED's that are CANBUS rated and several little black boxes like "LED Warning Canceller for H10 LED Motorcycle Headlight Bulb Conversion Kit".

 

http://uperbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/led-warning-canceller-for-h10-led-motorcycle-headlight-bulb-conversion-kit/3999/8637/

 

You might try their support line.  I've talked to them several times and always had a good experience.  

 

Let us know what you learn!!

[Scott9999]

7 hours ago, Lowndes said:

Scott,

 

Not canbus on my K.  That's a complication I know nothing about.  Have not had to climb that learning curve yet.

 

SuperBright does sell LED's that are CANBUS rated and several little black boxes like "LED Warning Canceller for H10 LED Motorcycle Headlight Bulb Conversion Kit".

 

http://uperbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/led-warning-canceller-for-h10-led-motorcycle-headlight-bulb-conversion-kit/3999/8637/

 

You might try their support line.  I've talked to them several times and always had a good experience.  

 

Let us know what you learn!!

Yeah, I'm going to definitely need that for the H1/H7 headlight upgrade, but I haven't decided on what parts I'm going there.  The lumen rating of the H1/H7's that superbrightleds is offering is only a fraction of the brightness of other brands.  After researching that for literally hours, I decided to table that for a while.  The fitment and heatsink issues are all over the place.

 

As far as the rear brake flashers, after studying that issue a bit, I decided that the LED Controller's may provide enough resistance to offset the reduced LED power usage.    Also, when I (briefly) researched your K bike, I read that your K bike also uses CANBUS, not fuses (but that might be a model year specific thing).  So, I'll install them and test them.  If I need to add a resister or capacitor to satisfy the CANBUS computer, I'll cross that bridge when the error codes pop.  I've got all winter to play with this thing, to get it right, but then again, those errors may not trigger until frequent  use of the brakes forces the issue.  So, I dunno, my brain hurts, I'll pick this up after Christmas.  😖