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Shim kit


Paul4450

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I did a search for a valve adjustment shim kit but it didn’t come up with anything. I think KTM shims might work, but would like to be sure before buying. Does anyone have suggestions?  I have the special tools, just need shims. 
 

Thanks everyone!

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1 hour ago, Paul4450 said:

I did a search for a valve adjustment shim kit but it didn’t come up with anything. I think KTM shims might work, but would like to be sure before buying. Does anyone have suggestions?  I have the special tools, just need shims. 
 

Thanks everyone!

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?98419-8-9mm-valve-shim-kits-for-a-17-R1200RT0

 

Suggested on Amazon (By "Boxflyer" Brad): "Wiseco VSK4 Premium 8.90mm OD Valve Shim kit"

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006573A6I/?coliid=I3DUAZHTJ4URME&colid=GCR6AS7CBTZ9&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

Haven't used them, but they're my target when I'm ready to do the valve check (assuming they are needed).

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5 hours ago, Scott9999 said:

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?98419-8-9mm-valve-shim-kits-for-a-17-R1200RT0

 

Suggested on Amazon (By "Boxflyer" Brad): "Wiseco VSK4 Premium 8.90mm OD Valve Shim kit"

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006573A6I/?coliid=I3DUAZHTJ4URME&colid=GCR6AS7CBTZ9&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

Haven't used them, but they're my target when I'm ready to do the valve check (assuming they are needed).

I think that is the same kit I purchased for my 2014 R1200GS. However I never had to use them. Clearences were still in spec at 130k miles when I sold bike.

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Yes, that is the Wiseco Kit that I started with, but then have augmented that kit by filling in most of the common sizes in between.

This way, I can adjust valve clearances by 0.02mm vs the standard spacing of 0.04mm in the Wiseco kit.

 

BTW, I've changed my philosophy of trying to adjust the valve clearance to the Mid point of the range, to a little tighter.

 

So, instead of trying to hit the middle -0.135mm- of the 0.10-0.17mm range for the intake valves and -0.375mm- for the 0.34-0.41mm range for the exhaust, I now set my target to 0.12mm for the intake and 0.36mm for the exhaust.

I've done more than 60 of the 12k services with about 15 second or third looks at engines I've already worked on, and they all seem to be drifting a little more towards the open clearance.

 

On my own 2016RT, I set the shims to the Mid point at 12k and at my last look just before it was totaled at 78k, I had 1 intake that finally opened up to 0.17mm and I shimmed it back to the mid point.  My bike was always a little bit "clattery" as well, so on the last 2 bikes I've adjust valves on, I think that setting the valves a little tighter in the range reduces the noise somewhat and should allow an initial setting of the valves to go well past 100k before needing any changes to valve shims.

 

When you go to OEMCycles.com, you need to use these part numbers to select the Shim Refill Kit in the sizes between what is included with the Wiseco Kit.

Here's the link to a sample page.  https://www.oemcycle.com/Item/product/900459391/noRediR=1/

This is the format to put in the "Search" field".   29.890222

After you get to the correct area of the website, I ordered shims in the sizes shown in the image highlighted in RED of 2.14, 2.18, 2.22, 2.26, 2.30, and 2.34 to go between the Wiseco kit.

 

Hope this helps.

Brad

 

C461BD41-0E34-4086-B343-0158C1AB71C0.jpeg

  • Like 7
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Thanks to all, especially Boxflyer.  I appreciate your experience, knowledge and experience. I’m leaning toward ordering the “in between” sizes, to have on hand before I start. I’m thinking if I brought my bike in to a shop and had it done there, it would cost more than the cost of the shims. A friend has a ‘15 RT, and can share the costs as well. I much prefer to have all I need before starting a job. Setting the clearances on the tighter half of the middle also makes perfect sense, Boxflyer. 
 

8.9 mm diameter shims are needed, from what I’ve found online. 
 

Thanks all!

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11 hours ago, Boxflyer said:

If you live close, I can help do the checks for you. 
I’m in New England…

Brad

Hmm, Idaho, New England, just a short ride over them thar hills next spring.  Tempting!  Always needed an excuse to visit my sister in New Hampshire, anyhow.  🤣🤣🤣🤣

 

(I might buy one of your makeshift cam chain tensioner down the road, though.)

 

From your attention to detail, and the "Boxflyer" nom de plume, I suspect you are a retired pilot or aircraft wrench (or mechanical engineer?).  Very good stuff, anyhow!

 

(Then again, "Boxflyer" sounds suspiciously related to "Boxer", so I dunno ...) 🤔

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I bought this kit in 2015 for my 15 RT.  Never needed them.

 

My 17.5 GS all 4 of the Exhaust were tight from the factory.  60, 600, 6000, and then at 12,000 I used that shim kit to put all 4 close to middle but a bit tighter.  You are limited at that point to what shims you may use from the other 3 exhaust valves, or the shims in the kit.  It worked for me and not having to wait or go to a dealer was what I wanted and was after.

 

This kit only has a small range of shims for our BMW.  Like 6 or 7 of them(I think) are pertinent to the 1200 motor.  I have no idea what that may be in 1250 motors.

 

However there are a range of shims that fit KTM bikes so there could be a swap there with a post on some KTM forums. 

 

For me it was worth having them on hand and it worked out well enough that I would say worth tying up the money.  So if these are not  on a ship in a port somewhere I do recommend buying them as they are handy. 

 

Just be sure you have a good micrometer to measure your shims.   BOTH old and new.  

 

Since I did both sides I had and took the opportunity to map my shims.  By this I mean I took all shims out while I had the cages out and measured each one and made a chart.  It will help in future valve checks and you have the cam cages out so it is something you can do. Then you can go buy a shim of your exact needs if you don't have it.

 

The intake shims have not moved but as I say the exhaust valves were tight at 4 checks with the feeler gauge was going from fitting at 60 miles to being tight at 12,000 so I took the opportunity to move them a bit.

 

I follow Brad's logic in staying out of the middle and top ranges of the specs.  Just by dumb luck and my availability of shims, even with the 4 ones removed in the mix, I was tighter then I would have been following the traditional thought process of setting valves to the middle.  A valve at the loose end is going to make more noise then one in the lower range just logical and the way it is.

 

I suggest all those who can check and set your own valves do so.  The reason I say this is a dealer is going to check them and it is go/no go, using the entire range of valve specs as listed by BMW.  SO either way unless you know and want them to what you consider correct you need to tell them your specs, or do it yourself.

 

Brad has made it very easy for anyone to follow a video and do these tasks.  I know some don't have time, and others the skill set, but there is nothing too difficult on these bikes as far as normal maintenance.  I find it soothing to work on the bike and find it gives me more confidence in riding it.

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Adjustment Plates

 

BMW nomenclature for these shims.

 

I did another inventory of my 8.90mm diameter shims today and updated my spreadsheet.

What I found is that the early bikes (2013/2014/2015) have quite a few shims on the thinner end of the spectrum. Most of the time down around 2.00 to 2.14mm,  and then from 2016 onwards, including the ShiftHeads, the shims are somewhat thicker and average around the 2.28 to 2.36mm.

 

Here's what I have for a shim inventory as of today.

(That's a little over 200 shims...good thing I didn't buy them at BMW dealer cost of around $8.60 EACH)

 

40F6D044-3CED-4D44-B858-1BE361BECB2B.jpeg

Edited by Boxflyer
Adjustment Plates
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello Boxflyer,

I live in the San Jose, CA area. But that’s ok as roads in Northern CA are as good as any, I believe. 
 

I did go to OEMCycle.com but could not find 8.9 mm shims in 2.02, 2.06, or 2.14 mm thicknesses.  Could you provide a link to those thicknesses?  
 

Thank you!

Paul

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19 minutes ago, Paul4450 said:

Hello Boxflyer,

I live in the San Jose, CA area. But that’s ok as roads in Northern CA are as good as any, I believe. 
 

I did go to OEMCycle.com but could not find 8.9 mm shims in 2.02, 2.06, or 2.14 mm thicknesses.  Could you provide a link to those thicknesses?  
 

Thank you!

Paul

Remember to use the format Boxflyer gave for searching for shims, put in the search box 29.890xxx, with xxx representing the shim size, do not input the decimal, that is, 206 for 2.06 and so on. It will come up as I triedit

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  • 2 months later...

Hello Boxflyer,

I was able perform the valve adjustments with minimal issues and used your recommendation regarding clearances. 
 

I read your comment regarding shim thickness tendencies related to year of manufacture. I thought you would be interested in what I found in my bike, a 2014. The intake shims were on the thick side, with the original shims being 2.24 and 2.20 mm thick on the front intake valves. The original front exhaust shims were on the thin side, being 1.90 and 1.96 mm. I did not need to adjust the rear valves, intake and exhaust, both sides.  So I did not pull those shims out to measure them. 
 

Thanks again for the great videos and information. I just wanted to add to your data base. If you have any questions for me, let me know!

 

Cheers!

Paul
 

 

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On 11/26/2021 at 2:50 PM, Boxflyer said:

Adjustment Plates

 

BMW nomenclature for these shims.

 

I did another inventory of my 8.90mm diameter shims today and updated my spreadsheet.

What I found is that the early bikes (2013/2014/2015) have quite a few shims on the thinner end of the spectrum. Most of the time down around 2.00 to 2.14mm,  and then from 2016 onwards, including the ShiftHeads, the shims are somewhat thicker and average around the 2.28 to 2.36mm.

 

Here's what I have for a shim inventory as of today.

(That's a little over 200 shims...good thing I didn't buy them at BMW dealer cost of around $8.60 EACH)

 

40F6D044-3CED-4D44-B858-1BE361BECB2B.jpeg

As a note to @Boxflyer, I purchased the Wiseco VSK4 shim kit for my 2016 R1200RS and it had only 3 shims per size from 1.72 to 2.60 mm in 0.04 mm increments. These are all 8.90 mm diameter. @Boxflyer, did you add to the kit to get the number of shims in green? 

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Yes, I've done lots and lots of WetHead valve clearance checks...as well as about the same number of Cam Timing checks.

I've used up inventory from the original Wiseco kit and added to it several times, so the numbers in green do not represent what comes in the VSK4 kit in the first place...sorry if I mislead you with the inventory I have.

 

Having shims in a 0.02mm spacing between sizes has allowed me to get the desired valve clearance almost every time.

 

 

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  • 7 months later...

Sorry for any duplication with my post. 
I’m very new to this forum, and recently went from a 2006 R1200RT to a 2018 wet head. I’ve read this and various threads related to valve adjustments, shims and shim kits.
My question is what members have found related to quality of aftermarket shims (the material, machining accuracy & uniformity)? Other than OEM BMW shims available from various dealers at $9+ ea, I’ve only read about and found Wiseco VSK4, Pro-X Shim, Moose branded (Wiseco) and Hot Cams sourced from eBay, Amazon, etc.
A fair number of reviews mention issues due to quality and inconsistency. 
Any thoughts or experiences using OEM and/or aftermarket shims highly appreciated. 
Thanks.

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I found the Wiseco kit to be accurate with both a dial and digital gauges.  The only knock is you tie up money on shims you do not need in a BMW.  Again there are a lot to fit KTM so a trade could be possible with some posts on a KTM Forum.

 

The other knock is they are in .04 and that may not suit your needs and buying shims that are ranged in .02 helps in hitting the exact range your looking for. 

 

As I said the kit worked for me with no waiting on shims on my exhaust side.  All 4 were tight from new.

 

The good thing is you gain 4 shims back when you replace and they may, or may not work out for another valve check.

 

Still need to mic the old and new to be absolute sure of what they are.  Mine were unreadable so I needed to mic them to get an accurate shim measurement both coming out, and going in.

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