old_farmer Posted November 7, 2021 Share Posted November 7, 2021 Hello all. I'm lining up supplies for a 12K service (my first attempt; many thanks to Boxflyer for showing me how). I'll be checking cam timing, so I will need to pull the tensioners. I assume that I should replace the crush washers when I reinstall the tensioners. I have never given much thought to crush washers - I get new ones for drain plugs, etc. But for this application, doesn't thickness matter to some degree? According to the parts fiche, It's a copper 20 x 24, but I have no idea how thick the proper spec is. I found some online that are 20.2 x 23.9 with specified thickness of 1.3-1.7. Does anyone know what the proper thickness is for this application? Thanks. Dave 1 Link to comment
Boxflyer Posted November 7, 2021 Share Posted November 7, 2021 Hi Dave, What you have found for the replacement is normal. 20x24 CU, and 1.5mm is the normal thickness as well. Good luck and let me know if you need any additional help. Brad 2 Link to comment
old_farmer Posted November 7, 2021 Author Share Posted November 7, 2021 Hi Brad. Thanks for the response. I'm sure that I will be reviewing your videos as I go through this process! Link to comment
MachineJoe Posted November 7, 2021 Share Posted November 7, 2021 Dave, Keep us posted on your adventure. I'm saving my 12k service for those mid winter cabin fever blues. linky on the crush washers? Link to comment
Boxflyer Posted November 7, 2021 Share Posted November 7, 2021 This has been where I stock up on the crush washers for the cam chain tensioner. https://www.ebay.com/itm/184103212748?var=691809871642 2 Link to comment
Oldrider51 Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 Where did you get all the special BMW tools to check the cam timing? From Boxflyer's video it appears that it takes 3 special tools. Anyone know the part numbers for the tools and estimated cost? Link to comment
Boxflyer Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 I have the part numbers here. For the R1200 "Classic" WetHead: 83302327790 8mm Alternator Locking Pin to establish TDC 83302327796 Cam Alignment Jig 83300444292 Cam Chain Tensioner/Pre-loader 83302339885 Tensioner/Pre-loader sleeve For the R1250 "New" ShiftHead 83302467268 Cam Alignment Jig set of 2 (mirror image for LH or RH) 83300444282 Tensioner/Pre-loader sleeve If you have trouble locating these tools, I fabricate a DIY version of the TDC Tool as well as the Cam Chain Tensioner/Pre-Loader. Very limited availability. I also have some of the Cam Alignment Jigs for the "Classic" WetHead. I have modified the 16mm Torque Adaptor Arm required to access the RH Intake Cam bolt on the R1250, and sell these also. 2 Link to comment
Oldrider51 Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 As expected none of these tools are inexpensive, at least from a BMW dealer. These would be for a 16 R1200RS. What is you pricing for the tools? I assume that your Pre-Loader comes with the sleeve? Thanks Link to comment
TSConver Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 @Boxflyer any other ebay sources for the other used crush washers? Link to comment
Boxflyer Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 @Oldrider51 All the "Classic" WetHead engines from the first 2013 GSW thru the 2018's, regardless of differences in body style, use the same engine tools for this work. What I make/sell in very limited production: 1) DIY TDC 8mm Pin (Works for both R1200 and R1250) 2) DIY Cam Chain Tension/Preloader that fits both "Classic" R1200 as well as "New" ShiftHead R1250 3) 16mm (5/8in) 2in long Torque Wrench adaptor (modified for the R1250 if needed) 4) BMW OEM Cam Alignment Jig (for R1200 ONLY) Price including USPS shipping and tracking to lower 48 States only is $310 PP F&F. @TSConver I get the FD fill plug from Amazon. The are 12x16x1.5mm copper. https://www.amazon.com/YXQ-12x16x1-5mm-Copper-Washer-Fitting/dp/B07Q36FZNY The engine oil drain plug crush washer is aluminum...here's a LIFETIME supply! https://www.amazon.com/Crush-Washers-Aluminum-Drain-Gasket/dp/B092LFD8TW/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=20x24+aluminum+crush+washer&qid=1636396733&s=hi&sr=1-2 1 Link to comment
migrant Posted November 18, 2021 Share Posted November 18, 2021 On 11/8/2021 at 10:56 AM, Boxflyer said: @Oldrider51 All the "Classic" WetHead engines from the first 2013 GSW thru the 2018's, regardless of differences in body style, use the same engine tools for this work. What I make/sell in very limited production: 1) DIY TDC 8mm Pin (Works for both R1200 and R1250) 2) DIY Cam Chain Tension/Preloader that fits both "Classic" R1200 as well as "New" ShiftHead R1250 3) 16mm (5/8in) 2in long Torque Wrench adaptor (modified for the R1250 if needed) 4) BMW OEM Cam Alignment Jig (for R1200 ONLY) Price including USPS shipping and tracking to lower 48 States only is $310 PP F&F. @TSConver I get the FD fill plug from Amazon. The are 12x16x1.5mm copper. https://www.amazon.com/YXQ-12x16x1-5mm-Copper-Washer-Fitting/dp/B07Q36FZNY The engine oil drain plug crush washer is aluminum...here's a LIFETIME supply! https://www.amazon.com/Crush-Washers-Aluminum-Drain-Gasket/dp/B092LFD8TW/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=20x24+aluminum+crush+washer&qid=1636396733&s=hi&sr=1-2 Boxflyer, once the cam timing is set...does it change with wear? Link to comment
Boxflyer Posted November 18, 2021 Share Posted November 18, 2021 My experience with doing about 60 12k services that include both Classic WetHead and New Shifthead, has been that about 90%+ of them need some kind of adjustment, either timing or valve clearance. I've only been able to do repeat timing and valve clearance checks on about 15 Classic WetHeads...and they have all been the same as when they were set initially. With the last couple of initial valve clearance checks, I've changed my technique of targeting the mid-point of the clearance range and tightened up the clearance target some...it seems to make the engine a little quieter. An added benefit is hopefully to allow any change in clearance to stay in the allowable range well past 100k miles. My own bike was the only higher mileage WetHead that I had to change any shims from initial setting. Mine were smack dab in the center of the tolerance range and at 77k, one intake grew to 0.17mm and I changed it back to the mid-point of 0.135. My bike was totaled when I was rear ended in Aug, so no more data points from that one. So...my new target for mid-point setting of valve clearance is 0.12mm for the intakes and 0.36mm for the exhaust. My observation of timing has been that it stays set, once set. No stretch or wear in any of the timing components, and that should be even better with the new design of the ShiftHead and the link chain vs the older roller chain. 2 Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now