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Winter maintenance


Brodiepunker18

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Brodiepunker18

Okay I’m sorry if this is posted somewhere but I’m trying to get a list of necessary repairs together so I can get the parts together before it gets too cold or the prices jump with how the world is going…

 

I’ve got a 99 r1100rt.I just got it this spring so I’m unsure if things have been done(Hall effect sensor) and I know some things need replacement.

 

so far on my list is:

1. Hall effect sensor(to be safe)

2. Stainless steel brake lines(still rubber 😮)

3. Fuel line disconnects(if not done)

4. Air filter

5. Oil change in spring

6. spark plugs?

 

and that’s kinda where I’m at. The bike has about 65k miles(best guess without looking at it) on it. I was told all the normal maintenance has been done up to when I bought it at the dealer. What else should I do at this point?

 

by the way, the bike runs like a top. No issues currently whatsoever. I want to repair and do preventative maintenance on what I can prior to next season. Hoping to get to a rally somewhere next year if it works out

 

thanks!

Eric

 

 

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33 minutes ago, Brodiepunker18 said:

Okay I’m sorry if this is posted somewhere but I’m trying to get a list of necessary repairs together so I can get the parts together before it gets too cold or the prices jump with how the world is going…

 

I’ve got a 99 r1100rt.I just got it this spring so I’m unsure if things have been done(Hall effect sensor) and I know some things need replacement.

 

so far on my list is:

1. Hall effect sensor(to be safe)

2. Stainless steel brake lines(still rubber 😮)

3. Fuel line disconnects(if not done)

4. Air filter

5. Oil change in spring

6. spark plugs?

 

and that’s kinda where I’m at. The bike has about 65k miles(best guess without looking at it) on it. I was told all the normal maintenance has been done up to when I bought it at the dealer. What else should I do at this point?

 

by the way, the bike runs like a top. No issues currently whatsoever. I want to repair and do preventative maintenance on what I can prior to next season. Hoping to get to a rally somewhere next year if it works out

 

thanks!

Eric

 

 

Morning   Eric

 

I usually store with new oil (oil/filter change before storage) as I don't like to store vehicles with acidic oil in them.

 

I would add a valve adjustment & throttle body balance  to your list.

 

Before the valve adjustment you might want to check your rocker arm end play (or side movement) & tighten that to lower end of specs (makes for quieter valve action) 

 

Replace the "U" hose & fuel filter inside your fuel tank (those U hoses are prone to failure & THAT will leave you walking)  

 

Change the final drive & transmission gear oil (filter the removed oil through a paper towel to see what is going on inside the trans & final drive)

 

Inspect the brake pads & replace if necessary. 

 

Inspect and/or replace the alternator belt (turn it inside out then fold it back a little looking for cracking across the ribs) 

 

Do a complete brake bleed (fluid replacement) then also  check the wheel speed sensor air gaps. I like to do the brake bleed service before storage as that prevents the old moisture laden fluid from etching the brake hydraulic parts. You will have to do the bleeding after brake hose replacement anyhow. 

 

Maybe do an emission canister removal as those tend to plug up over time then the black goo inside gets pulled back into the fuel tank plugging injectors and/or plugging the tank venting then ruining your fuel gauge sender tube.  

 

Clean & lubricate the little "ball & sockets" on your shift linkage (makes smooth shifting easier & helps prevent missed gears while shifting)   

 

Then you have the more exotic things like starter disassembly, cleaning & lubrication,  clutch throw-out bearing service & lubrication, clutch cable end barrel-to-seat  lubrication, checking catalytic converter for cracking on the rear, cleaning/lubricating  all the brake caliper sliding parts,  checking/replacing the bobbins on the front brake rotors, or even checking the drive shaft for notchy U joints.  

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Check the left side cam chain tensioner to see if it has been replaced with the updated version.  Old (original) one has a 17 mm hex head bolt, new one has a 15 mm hex head.  Left side only.  Original design loses oil pressure after motor shuts off.  Takes a bit for pressure to return when started, lets left cam chain slap against the guide rail (plastic). Noisy and leads to premature wear of the rail and possible failure.  Not a difficult R&R, and not very expensive new parts, about $125.

 

Like DR says, oil change before winter storage.  Don't be tempted to start the motor to warm up while stored.  If you aren't going to ride it for at least 10-20 miles, don't start it at all.

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Brodiepunker18

Dirt rider I have a few questions…

 

what kind of oil should I use? Conventional or synthetic? And weight? I have no idea what’s been used previously. Nor do I know what weight has been used. 
 

Speed sensor air gaps? 
 

is the emission canister serviceable? I’d rather not mess with the emissions stuff unless necessary to actually remove it.

 

where are the “balls and sockets” you’re speaking of? On the linkage itself on the shifter lever?

 

while I’d LOVE to do everything, unfortunately my pocketbook isn’t endless with my young kids 😂…I definitely need to do certain things before others.

 

sorry if the questions are dumb…this is my newest bike I’ve had…and my first BMW. I want to keep it as nice as I got it and keep it well maintained so it lasts me a long time.

 

I’ll definitely look into everything else as well.

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Morning   Eric

 

what kind of oil should I use? Conventional or synthetic? And weight? I have no idea what’s been used previously. Nor do I know what weight has been used. -- You can use either, I typically use a good quality SG rated  conventional oil.  Unfortunately SG rated engine oil is getting more difficult to find every year. For the most part engine oil is backwards compatible (for most automobiles)  but when it  comes to motorcycles that backwards compatibility is not always true. BMW did publish a service bulletin for the 1100/1150  motorcycle to use SG rated  oil. There are a number of newer engine oils that have enough ZDDP to satisfy the BMW SG rating requirement but that takes research to find the ones that do.  (this is just way I pick the proper oil, a number of riders use about anything with few if any engine failures)

 

Depending on where you live, or basically where you ride, a 20w50 conventional or a 15w50 synthetic usually fits the BMW requirements. 

 

If you look on the motorcycle oil shelf of your local auto parts store you can usually find a suitable 20w50 conventional or a 15w50 or 20w50 synthetic with a higher ZDDP level.   


 

Speed sensor air gaps? -- The wheel speed sensors for the ABS have a specific operating air gap (it is shimable), there should be (or should have been anyhow) sensor gap feeler gauges included in the motorcycle tool kit. Sensor air gap is 0.45mm - 0.55mm   (0.0177"- 0.02165"). 

 

is the emission canister serviceable? I’d rather not mess with the emissions stuff unless necessary to actually remove it.-- No, it really isn't serviceable. They either work, or they are plugged, or they are partially plugged.  I guess you need to define necessary. Replacing or removing isn't necessary until you have a problem, like the fuel tank sucking in & bending your fuel gauge fuel level sensor so your gauge doesn't read correctly & you run out of fuel on the road somewhere (then it becomes necessary). 

The evap canister IS a big player in removing & burning hydrocarbon emissions so having an operational evap can is desirable. But if it effects the vehicle operation then it needs to be addressed ( large number of BMW 1100/1150 riders do, or did, remove that evap canister just to prevent the above mentioned problems). You can help the evap canister to live longer by cutting the bottom of it's vent hose (the one that exits behind the riders R/H foot peg)   to have a 45° lower end (this prevents sucking in road water). 

 

where are the “balls and sockets” you’re speaking of? On the linkage itself on the shifter lever? -- They are under the L/H side foot plate. There is a short shift  lever on the transmission & your foot shifter lever. That link with the balls & sockets connects the foot lever to the trans short shift lever. A spring clip pulls out of the socket then that allows the socket to pull off of the ball for cleaning & lubrication (not easy to get to but doable with effort) 

 

while I’d LOVE to do everything, unfortunately my pocketbook isn’t endless with my young kids 😂…I definitely need to do certain things before others.-- A lot of things are just labor with little money invested.  

 

sorry if the questions are dumb…this is my newest bike I’ve had…and my first BMW. I want to keep it as nice as I got it and keep it well maintained so it lasts me a long time. --Not dumb questions.

 

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Brodiepunker18
7 minutes ago, 9Mary7 said:

FWIW, an emission canister-ectomy will save you from serious expenditure when it fails.......


besides what dirt rider has said about it…will it affect fuel economy and/or driveability?

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8 minutes ago, Brodiepunker18 said:


besides what dirt rider has said about it…will it affect fuel economy and/or driveability?

Morning   Eric

 

It CAN effect both but typically crushes the expensive fuel gauge float tube first. 

 

If the black goo inside that evap can migrates into the fuel tank it can plug off the fuel filter or plug the fuel injectors & that can cause major issues. 

 

Look at the right rear of your motorcycle for a black can looking thing (looks like a large back soup can)  hanging off the frame side. Possibly the last owner has already removed it (a LOT of 1100 riders removed that can to prevent problems)  

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Brodie.

 

Regarding the oil, I’ve been using the oil originally specified by BMW for the R1100RT: Spectro  4 20W50  mineral oil, $30/gallon on Amazon with free prime shipping. You can also buy the  Spectro 4 80W90 gear oil on Amazon for $21/liter. You need 1 1/4 liter for the transmission and final drive so you have to buy two liters.
 

Don’t forget to buy some crush washers for the drain and fill bolts and use a torque wrench to prevent over-crushing the washers. The bolts don’t need a lot of torque. 
 

There’s several YouTube videos that will help with the evap canister removal. I followed Chris Harris’ procedure. It’s an easy mod and took me about an hour or so once I had the left fairing off.
 

Be delicate with the fairing screws so you don’t cross thread the nuts molded into the fuel tank. Keep track of the fairing screws as well, they’re expensive. Many people have recommended against using the stainless steel screws available on line because they don’t have the pointed ends so are more likely to strip the nut inserts. I’ve no direct experience with this myself but it’s been noted by many people over the years. Just fyi. 
 

Best

Miguel 

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Brodiepunker18

Thanks Miguel!

 

I stopped at my local BMW dealer yesterday and they told me 15w-50 for oil. So that’s what I’m going to use. …I asked if it was conventional or synthetic and I was told a semi-synthetic type. Hmmm…
 

i remember reading about the screws! Thanks for the reminder!

 

Looks like I’ve got some supplies to gather and a great starting point for my initial maintenance this winter!

Edited by Brodiepunker18
Add Oil type
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The PO of my 1100RT used Mobil 1 V Twin oil, 20w50 synthetic, so that's what I continue to use. Even at Walmart it's still almost $10 a quart, but way more convenient than the dealer.  My .02 c. Dave

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