Scott9999 Posted October 25, 2021 Share Posted October 25, 2021 I realize that some of the stuff in the manual is "OA" (optional accessory), but I noticed two switches in this picture that I do not have. There's an imprint in the plastic where the daylight switch would go, and I didn't get enough light in the garage to see if there was the same for the AUX switch. I also can't tell if that's a filler that would pop out if the multi-function switch was dismantled - I doubt it. Anyhow, has anyone tried adding either of these buttons to their bike? The AUX (lower) switch in particular would be nice for lighting I intend to add (i.e. wing mounted lights below the mirror, or perhaps down on the forks, as is the popular thing to do, fog and/or running lights). It would seem a clean way to add a switch if were possible. Not a big deal - more a curiosity questions. (I'll bookmark any links for the later project.) Thanks. Link to comment
wbw6cos Posted October 25, 2021 Share Posted October 25, 2021 The lower switch is for the OEM auxiliary LED lights on my RT, which is, basically, a new motor in an '18 chassis. I do not have the other switch shown next to 4-way hazard flashers. Curious, though. Link to comment
strataj Posted October 25, 2021 Share Posted October 25, 2021 The upper left switch is for Daytime Driving lights per the manual. I've never seen this option. My question is I've always thought the Angle Eye to be the daytime driving lights? Link to comment
wbw6cos Posted October 25, 2021 Share Posted October 25, 2021 Isn't the headlight being on all the time considered a Daytime Driving light? Link to comment
dirtrider Posted October 25, 2021 Share Posted October 25, 2021 6 minutes ago, wbw6cos said: Isn't the headlight being on all the time considered a Daytime Driving light? Afternoon wbw6cos Headlight on all the time is usually considered a DRL (Daylight Running Light). Some places require the headlight be turned off to enter. Angel eyes are also accepted DRL so some vehicles only use angel eyes for DRL compliance. 1 Link to comment
Scott9999 Posted October 26, 2021 Author Share Posted October 26, 2021 8 hours ago, wbw6cos said: The lower switch is for the OEM auxiliary LED lights on my RT, which is, basically, a new motor in an '18 chassis. I do not have the other switch shown next to 4-way hazard flashers. Curious, though. Well, this is what my 2018 R1200RT looks like. (Lol, just to be sure, I verified the manual I'm looking at is for a wethead RT.) William's matches the diagram, so he must have the Aux add on, and I do not. It kind of looks like the clutch reservoir has a different front clamp on William's bike, which includes the AUX switch. When I'm ready to actually mount the lights, I'll check the BMW catalog to find out how many $100's it would cost for that little dinky part, and then, maybe look for the part from a wrecked bike. Regarding the "other switch", i.e. daylight switch, yes, that's probably a non-USA option, since all US bikes come "lights on" for daylight, except for RT-P's which have a manual off switch (so LEO's can be sneaky, when they need to 😏). Thanks, to all, for responding. Link to comment
wbw6cos Posted October 26, 2021 Share Posted October 26, 2021 Scott, I also have the ilium works bar back risers on my bike. Link to comment
TSConver Posted October 26, 2021 Share Posted October 26, 2021 The add on auxiliary light switch will not be of use. It is a can bus switch. It is not an on off switch. Just changes resistance so the can bus sees it activate. Link to comment
lkraus Posted October 26, 2021 Share Posted October 26, 2021 6 hours ago, TSConver said: The add on auxiliary light switch will not be of use. It is a can bus switch. It is not an on off switch. Just changes resistance so the can bus sees it activate. Just want to expand a bit on why adding the factory switch may not be a great approach. The wiring to the BMW switches is typically very thin since they do not carry power to whatever device they control. If programmed to do so, the central computer (ZFE) monitors the position of the switch and only needs to see continuity or an open circuit and then determines whether it applies/removes power to the wires actually connected to the device. Sometimes there is not even a voltage on the wire since the ZFE can just look for a connection to ground. The switch contacts don't need to be very robust since they do not need to carry appreciable current. Even if the wires and switch were ableto carry useful amounts of current, the ZFE could require modification at the dealer to check the switch position and apply power where needed. It might be possible to use the switch to trigger a relay for aux lights, bypassing the ZFE completely, but I think you can find a suitable switch for a good deal less money than the $125 BMW wants. Link to comment
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