Rear Shock Adjustment

[Brucifer1150]

When increasing the weight-load on the bike (turning the knob clockwise), is there a maximum setting where the knob won't turn anymore or will it just 'slip' and continue to turn? I'm a big boy and it bottoms out on railroad tracks at speed. Just don't know when to stop turning.

 

[9Mary7]

It will stop when maximum preload is achieved.

[Michaelr11]

5 hours ago, Brucifer1150 said:

When increasing the weight-load on the bike (turning the knob clockwise), is there a maximum setting where the knob won't turn anymore or will it just 'slip' and continue to turn? I'm a big boy and it bottoms out on railroad tracks at speed. Just don't know when to stop turning.

 

 

There is at least one write-up or video that covers the preload adjuster of the stock rear shock.  If you need a link to it, ask.  Fist thing you should do is verify that you have full range of adjustment still available in your rear shock.  Turn the adjuster knob counter clockwise all the way until it stops.  You will feel a difference as you turn the knob, where at some point there will be no pressure on the adjuster between each click of the knob. Once you get all the way counter clockwise, start turning it clockwise towards the higher/firmer settings. Count the clicks in the knob as you turn it. Getting one, two or three clicks with little pressure is okay, but count how many clicks you go through until the adjuster pushes back against the turns and you feel like you are actually turning against something. The adjuster typically needs to be refilled with hydraulic oil to restore the function to full range.

 

Here you go...

 

[Mike279]

I refilled my shock and it made a difference.  A higher spring rate would be the next step.  Railroad tracks at speed is something I try to not do.  Bent wheels would ruin a nice day in a hurry.  

[Paul De]

One thing that is often overlooked is if you make a significant change to the spring preload the rebound damping screw could need to be adjusted as well.  Typically the preload on the spring is adjusted in a narrow enough range that the miss match is not enough to notice any increase in ride harshness (too much damping) from reducing spring preload, or bouncing (too little damping) from increasing spring preload.  Easy enough to adjust, so it is worth a little fussing to get an optimal ride.

 

Unfortunately the OEM shock, and most aftermarket offerings for the Oilheads, don't offer independent compression and rebound damping adjustment as increasing the compression damping alone may also help quite a bit to limit bottoming out without going to excessive spring preload.  There would still be the trade off of increasing some harshness riding on rougher roads and going over freeway expansion joints, but would leave the shock to rebound normally from a large compression stroke.