2018 R12RT Starting issue

[Dirtmerchant]

 

I have a new to me '18 R12RT that may either be having battery, starter issues or something, hoping someone can help me noodle through it. 

 

Sometimes when I start the bike it will spin right over. Other times the gauges will go black and do nothing. I have cleaned the terminals on the battery, the positive connection on the jumper lug and the negative on the starter, thin film of dielectric grease too. When I put the multimeter on negative battery post and the positive jumper post the voltages stays steady when it goes from being lit to dark, no voltage drop.  

 

The battery is original, in service date is 12-2019 but in reality the battery is probably 4-years old. When I charge it with my BMW older Canbus charger it will go through 1/3 to 2/3 then back to 2/3 without going to 3/3. When I connect the same charger to my R9T, it will go to 3/3 so I know the charger is okay. It holds 12.45 volts.

 

Bike is under the 3-year factory warranty, battery is not as it's only 2-years on that. I won't buy a BMW battery as I've only ever had bad luck with them.  No problem putting a new battery in it but I'm not convinced that is the problem.  

 

Thanks!!

 

 

[dirtrider]

29 minutes ago, Dirtmerchant said:

Sometimes when I start the bike it will spin right over. Other times the gauges will go black and do nothing. I have cleaned the terminals on the battery, the positive connection on the jumper lug and the negative on the starter, thin film of dielectric grease too. When I put the multimeter on negative battery post and the positive jumper post the voltages stays steady when it goes from being lit to dark, no voltage drop.  

 

Afternoon  Dirtmerchant

 

What voltage is the battery holding at when (during)  you try to crank it?

 

I know the charger is okay. It holds 12.45 volts.-- 12.45 volts is not a good voltage, it should be higher. (probably above 12.7 anyhow) 

 

When the gauges go blank does it even try to turn over (even a little) or nothing from the starter? 

 

If the starter does nothing then you probably have a battery issue or starter issue, or starting circuit issue.

 

If the starter T-R-I-E-S to crank but quits then you might have a compression release issue.

 

 

[Dirtmerchant]

@dirtrider

 

Well, I put it on the charger earlier this afternoon and now I can't replicate it.  

 

 

What voltage is the battery holding at when (during)  you try to crank it?

Just checked the voltage drop from the Positive Jump Lug to the Starter Negative. 12.59 to 8.5? while cranking.

 

I know the charger is okay. It holds 12.45 volts.-- 12.45 volts is not a good voltage, it should be higher. (probably above 12.7 anyhow) 

It was 12.59 a few minutes after I took it off the charger, the charger was putting out 14.1 volts.  I will check it later this evening and update with voltage after a few hours of rest. 

 

When the gauges go blank does it even try to turn over (even a little) or nothing from the starter? 

Does nothing 

 

If the starter does nothing then you probably have a battery issue or starter issue, or starting circuit issue.

If the starter T-R-I-E-S to crank but quits then you might have a compression release issue.

 

[Frank Brown]

If it drops to 8.5 when cranking it's a very weak battery soon to be dead.  A fully charged 12v battery should be 12.6 or 12.7, 2.1v per cell.  Need new battery.

[dirtrider]

24 minutes ago, Dirtmerchant said:

@dirtrider

 

Well, I put it on the charger earlier this afternoon and now I can't replicate it.  

 

 

What voltage is the battery holding at when (during)  you try to crank it?

Just checked the voltage drop from the Positive Jump Lug to the Starter Negative. 12.59 to 8.5? while cranking.

 

I know the charger is okay. It holds 12.45 volts.-- 12.45 volts is not a good voltage, it should be higher. (probably above 12.7 anyhow) 

It was 12.59 a few minutes after I took it off the charger, the charger was putting out 14.1 volts.  I will check it later this evening and update with voltage after a few hours of rest. 

 

When the gauges go blank does it even try to turn over (even a little) or nothing from the starter? 

Does nothing 

 

If the starter does nothing then you probably have a battery issue or starter issue, or starting circuit issue.

If the starter T-R-I-E-S to crank but quits then you might have a compression release issue.

 

Evening Dirtmerchant

 

Battery voltage below 10v at engine cranking is too low, 8.5v is exceptionally low so the starter system won't stay engaged at that low voltage level.   

 

On a good battery it should show over 13 volts right after taking it off the battery charger & be at 12.6-12.8v 24 hours after taking it off the charger.   

 

You have a  positive jumper post so (as a test)  next time it won't crank just put jumper cables from a non running automobile on the bike & see if that  makes it crank correctly (probably will). Or better yet just replace the darn battery as it seems to be on the very low side of poor. 

[Dirtmerchant]

Thanks guys, I'll get a new battery on the way.

[dirtrider]

1 minute ago, Dirtmerchant said:

Thanks guys, I'll get a new battery on the way.

 

1 minute ago, Dirtmerchant said:

Thanks guys, I'll get a new battery on the way.

Evening Dirtmerchant

 

After you get the new battery installed put the charger back on it then look at the charging voltage again as that 14.1v charging  you reported is too low to properly charge an AGM battery. 

 

 

 

[Scott9999]

That was pretty much the direction I was going as I read through this thread.  If my battery is 4 years old and I'm having any starting (or charging) problems, my first "debugging" step is to replace the battery, because it hasn't got much life left, anyways.  KISS method (with me, being the stupid one).

 

Considering my own 2018 (still pending delivery) which has about 2.3 years of real use (put into service in 2019, traded in probably June/July of this year), I consider battery replacement one of my chores for this winter.   The RT's have always liked 14+ Amps of solid power all the time, and I'm talking about the Hex heads and earlier.  All the new electronic gadgets they've generously slapped on the Camhead and Wethead generations, can't have reduced the need for power.  It's just not worth the trouble of messing around with a battery over 3 years old, IMHO. 

 

(Don't even want to mention the angry phantom "bad alternator" thingy, the dark broodish thing that haunts all wethead owners.  Maybe there's only been ten of 'em, maybe fifty bad ones in  the entire fleet, dunno the number, but when you hear how much it costs, and the requirement to pull and split the engine, well, yeah, it makes one worry every time there's any kind of electrical hiccup.)

 

Hope the new battery does the trick!

[Dirtmerchant]

@dirtrider

 

So I let the battery rest ~13hrs after charging and got the following readings:

Ignition off: 12.93V 

Ignition on: 12.40V

While cranking between Neg Starter post and Pos Jumper lug: 10.26V

While running: 14.35V

 

I shut the bike off and did a quick start/stop 3x and let it sit for ~1hr and got the following:

Ignition off: 12.96V

Ignition on: 12.53V 

 

I put BMW Charger back on and in 1/3 it was charging 13.58V and in 2/3 mode it was 13.72, still won't go to 3/3 mode. 

 

For comparison I put a Battery Tender Jr. on and it was charging 14.5V, it went into float mode in about 2 minutes.

 

Thoughts?

Bad battery, charger or both?

 

THANKS!!

[dirtrider]

31 minutes ago, Dirtmerchant said:

@dirtrider

 

So I let the battery rest ~13hrs after charging and got the following readings:

Ignition off: 12.93V 

Ignition on: 12.40V

While cranking between Neg Starter post and Pos Jumper lug: 10.26V

While running: 14.35V

 

I shut the bike off and did a quick start/stop 3x and let it sit for ~1hr and got the following:

Ignition off: 12.96V

Ignition on: 12.53V 

 

I put BMW Charger back on and in 1/3 it was charging 13.58V and in 2/3 mode it was 13.72, still won't go to 3/3 mode. 

 

For comparison I put a Battery Tender Jr. on and it was charging 14.5V, it went into float mode in about 2 minutes.

 

Thoughts?

Bad battery, charger or both?

 

THANKS!!

Morning  Dirtmerchant

 

Now this tis different than your last few postings.

 

 

So I let the battery rest ~13hrs after charging and got the following readings:

Ignition off: 12.93V 

Ignition on: 12.40V---  Those are both within reason, the 12.93v after 13 hours is good, the 12.4v could be a bit higher but acceptable.  What does the battery voltage show during engine cranking after 13 hours (this is the important reading)

 

While cranking between Neg Starter post and Pos Jumper lug: 10.26V

While running: 14.35V---  Both are good, 10.6v cranking isn't great but it's within the OK zone, running/charging is good. 

 

I shut the bike off and did a quick start/stop 3x and let it sit for ~1hr and got the following:

Ignition off: 12.96V

Ignition on: 12.53V --- Depending on how much charge you got in prior to testing those look OK. How hot was the engine & engine oil during this test?

 

I put BMW Charger back on and in 1/3 it was charging 13.58V and in 2/3 mode it was 13.72, still won't go to 3/3 mode. --- 13.8v isn't going to charge much, that is more of a float type voltage range. Even 13.72v isn't doing much charging on an AGM battery (is your battery charger AGM battery rated?)

 

For comparison I put a Battery Tender Jr. on and it was charging 14.5V, it went into float mode in about 2 minutes.--- That is more like it, at least for initial charging right after hook up. 

 

Thoughts?

Bad battery, charger or both?-- With the limited info furnished the charger doesn't seem to be working correctly but that can depend on how it reads the battery, battery type, & condition. 

 

 

The battery looks OK  from what you posted but that is very limited to determine battery condition. You need to  proper battery load test to truly determine battery condition. But even then they can pass a hand held battery load test but still fail shortly after.  

 

So that brings us to-- Why did you need to put a battery charger on it to begin with???????????? If it was too low to start the engine & motorcycle hadn't been parked for over 3-4 weeks then something is wrong, like a parasitic draw (battery drain), or the battery is going bad & won't retain a charge for long, or a battery internal short.

 

What does you battery charger show for charging when put it on another KNOW GOOD battery?   

 

At your battery's age (personally) I wouldn't fool around with it as it is nearing end of life anyway so just put in a new battery & go from there. Or at least have  decent battery load test run on your present battery but even then at it's it could go "sudden death"  at about any time.

 

Bottom line: battery open circuit & low-load voltage can be deceiving as an older battery can retain & show good open circuit, or low load, voltage but fail as soon as a cold engine cold cranking load is put on it.    

 

 

 

[Dirtmerchant]

Now this tis different than your last few postings.

 

 

So I let the battery rest ~13hrs after charging and got the following readings:

Ignition off: 12.93V 

Ignition on: 12.40V---  Those are both within reason, the 12.93v after 13 hours is good, the 12.4v could be a bit higher but acceptable.  

 

What does the battery voltage show during engine cranking after 13 hours (this is the important reading)

It was at 10.26v while cranking, had my wife help so I could keep my eye on it.

 

While cranking between Neg Starter post and Pos Jumper lug: 10.26V

While running: 14.35V---  

 

Both are good, 10.6v cranking isn't great but it's within the OK zone, running/charging is good. 

10.26v, not 10.6v

 

I shut the bike off and did a quick start/stop 3x and let it sit for ~1hr and got the following:

Ignition off: 12.96V

Ignition on: 12.53V ---

 

Depending on how much charge you got in prior to testing those look OK. How hot was the engine & engine oil during this test?

It had gone through the 0/3 1/3 and 2/3 mode but as I mentioned the charger won't go to 3/3 on this battery.

The engine was COLD around 80* this morning. I let it run maybe 30 seconds to get the alternator charging rate and did the start/stop procedure, so mostly cold...

 

I put BMW Charger back on and in 1/3 it was charging 13.58V and in 2/3 mode it was 13.72, still won't go to 3/3 mode. ---

 

13.8v isn't going to charge much, that is more of a float type voltage range. Even 13.72v isn't doing much charging on an AGM battery (is your battery charger AGM battery rated?) 

Yes, it is one of the early Canbus AGM BMW cubes, PN 71 60 7 688 865

• For comparison I put a Battery Tender Jr. on and it was charging 14.5V, it went into float mode in about 2 minutes.--- That is more like it, at least for initial charging right after hook up. 

Thoughts?

Bad battery, charger or both?-- With the limited info furnished the charger doesn't seem to be working correctly but that can depend on how it reads the battery, battery type, & condition. 

 

I do have a GS911 that I could connect if you thought would shed any additional light on the subject.

 

The battery looks OK  from what you posted but that is very limited to determine battery condition. You need to  proper battery load test to truly determine battery condition. But even then they can pass a hand held battery load test but still fail shortly after.  

 

So that brings us to-- Why did you need to put a battery charger on it to begin with???????????? If it was too low to start the engine & motorcycle hadn't been parked for over 3-4 weeks then something is wrong, like a parasitic draw (battery drain), or the battery is going bad & won't retain a charge for long, or a battery internal short. I rode about 8 hours this past Saturday but this is not the first time this has happened. When the motor starts, the starter always spins fast. When it doesn't, the display and gauges go black.

This is my first WC so don't have any frame of reference what a weak battery sounds like vs my CamHeads. 

No accessories connected except for a charger pig tail. The Nav VI is always off the bike unless in use. 

* I do have a GS911 that I could connect if you thought would shed any additional light on the subject. 

 

What does you battery charger show for charging when put it on another KNOW GOOD battery?   

I connected it to my R9T that has a fresh Yuasa high output battery. It quickly went to float mode but was reading 14.1v charging in float. 

 

At your battery's age (personally) I wouldn't fool around with it as it is nearing end of life anyway so just put in a new battery & go from there. Or at least have  decent battery load test run on your present battery but even then at it's it could go "sudden death"  at about any time.

I agree 100% with this and intend to but it looks like everyone is sold out of the Yuasa YTX20CH that I'd like to get... 

• Bottom line: battery open circuit & low-load voltage can be deceiving as an older battery can retain & show good open circuit, or low load, voltage but fail as soon as a cold engine cold cranking load is put on it.    
   

 

This bike is the push to start if that influences how the start circuit works with low voltage. 

 

 

 

[dirtrider]

Afternoon 

 

 

 

What does the battery voltage show during engine cranking after 13 hours (this is the important reading)

It was at 10.26v while cranking, had my wife help so I could keep my eye on it.-- This is acceptable but doesn't totally bless the battery or point to it being failed (just more data)

 

 

Depending on how much charge you got in prior to testing those look OK. How hot was the engine & engine oil during this test?

It had gone through the 0/3 1/3 and 2/3 mode but as I mentioned the charger won't go to 3/3 on this battery.

The engine was COLD around 80* this morning. I let it run maybe 30 seconds to get the alternator charging rate and did the start/stop procedure, so mostly cold...

 

I put BMW Charger back on and in 1/3 it was charging 13.58V and in 2/3 mode it was 13.72, still won't go to 3/3 mode. --- If it can't get the battery to a point where it thinks it should  be it won't enter float mode. (might be a charger issue or a sulfated battery issue) 

 

13.8v isn't going to charge much, that is more of a float type voltage range. Even 13.72v isn't doing much charging on an AGM battery (is your battery charger AGM battery rated?) 

Yes, it is one of the early Canbus AGM BMW cubes, PN 71 60 7 688 865 --- I have heard talk that the old "cube" chargers won't work properly on the new wethead bikes with but I haven't any personal experience. Can you get the charger to hook directly to the battery & not go through the onboard electronics? 

• For comparison I put a Battery Tender Jr. on and it was charging 14.5V, it went into float mode in about 2 minutes.--- That is more like it, at least for initial charging right after hook up. 

Thoughts?

Bad battery, charger or both?-- With the limited info furnished the charger doesn't seem to be working correctly but that can depend on how it reads the battery, battery type, & condition. 

 

I do have a GS911 that I could connect if you thought would shed any additional light on the subject.-- This can give you some useful info, my GS-911 isn't perfect on voltages but if you trap the entire list it should let you look at other starting initiators.   If you can trap a good cold start & a failed cold start then post the  data possibly we can spot something amiss. 

 

So that brings us to-- Why did you need to put a battery charger on it to begin with???????????? If it was too low to start the engine & motorcycle hadn't been parked for over 3-4 weeks then something is wrong, like a parasitic draw (battery drain), or the battery is going bad & won't retain a charge for long, or a battery internal short. I rode about 8 hours this past Saturday but this is not the first time this has happened. When the motor starts, the starter always spins fast. When it doesn't, the display and gauges go black.

This is my first WC so don't have any frame of reference what a weak battery sounds like vs my CamHeads. 

No accessories connected except for a charger pig tail. The Nav VI is always off the bike unless in use. 

* I do have a GS911 that I could connect if you thought would shed any additional light on the subject.-- It sure wouldn't hurt to put a GS-911 on it & trap during a failed-to-start condition. It might spot something.  

 

What does you battery charger show for charging when put it on another KNOW GOOD battery?   

I connected it to my R9T that has a fresh Yuasa high output battery. It quickly went to float mode but was reading 14.1v charging in float. -- OK, that tells you it CAN go into float but not if it can charge any higher than 14.1 volts. 

 

At your battery's age (personally) I wouldn't fool around with it as it is nearing end of life anyway so just put in a new battery & go from there. Or at least have  decent battery load test run on your present battery but even then at it's it could go "sudden death"  at about any time.

I agree 100% with this and intend to but it looks like everyone is sold out of the Yuasa YTX20CH that I'd like to get... 

• Bottom line: battery open circuit & low-load voltage can be deceiving as an older battery can retain & show good open circuit, or low load, voltage but fail as soon as a cold engine cold cranking load is put on it.    
   

 

This bike is the push to start if that influences how the start circuit works with low voltage. --- It shouldn't but we really don't know what is happening yet so you definitely can't rule it out. 

 

If you have a charging pigtail on the bike (or have other means of attaching a voltmeter somewhat easily) then you can start monitoring the battery voltage on each start until you catch it with the blank gauges. If the battery voltage is above 12.5v at cranking attempt then probably not the battery itself. 

 

 

 

[dirtrider]

Afternoon Dirtmerchant

 

A little more info--  

 

This is just bizarre enough that I don't think we have a handle on it yet.  If it had a known good battery that would eliminate one of the unknown's. Battery's sure can act strange at times with internal issues.

 

I worked on an early wethead  a couple of years ago that had similar (but not exactly same)  starting issues (was into the dealer twice & they couldn't find anything). I really never could get it to act up either but just out of things to try I loosened then properly re-tightened the battery cables at the battery posts  & the owner told me the starting problem never returned (coincidence, luck, or found-it)  I will never know.     

[Dirtmerchant]

Afternoon Dirtmerchant

 

A little more info--  

 

This is just bizarre enough that I don't think we have a handle on it yet.  If it had a known good battery that would eliminate one of the unknown's. Battery's sure can act strange at times with internal issues.

 

I agree, something feels off and although I am going to replace the battery due to it's age, I don't want to have the same problem with the new battery. It is still under warranty but it's intermittent and my luck would be that they couldn't replicate. 

 

I worked on an early wethead  a couple of years ago that had similar (but not exactly same)  starting issues (was into the dealer twice & they couldn't find anything). I really never could get it to act up either but just out of things to try I loosened then properly re-tightened the battery cables at the battery posts  & the owner told me the starting problem never returned (coincidence, luck, or found-it)  I will never know.   

 

I removed all the contacts, wire brushed them and or hit 'em with sandpaper and applied light film of dielectric grease yesterday, it has started every time since so perhaps there was a bad connection.... 

 

I really appreciate all the help. It is getting to be riding season in SWFLA but I'll try to let it sit for a few days and test the voltage periodically and report back.  I will get a new battery ordered as soon as I can locate an in stock authentic Yausa, not a fan of the replicas although they may roll off the same line.

[dirtrider]

15 minutes ago, Dirtmerchant said:

Afternoon Dirtmerchant

 

A little more info--  

 

This is just bizarre enough that I don't think we have a handle on it yet.  If it had a known good battery that would eliminate one of the unknown's. Battery's sure can act strange at times with internal issues.

 

I agree, something feels off and although I am going to replace the battery due to it's age, I don't want to have the same problem with the new battery. It is still under warranty but it's intermittent and my luck would be that they couldn't replicate. 

 

I worked on an early wethead  a couple of years ago that had similar (but not exactly same)  starting issues (was into the dealer twice & they couldn't find anything). I really never could get it to act up either but just out of things to try I loosened then properly re-tightened the battery cables at the battery posts  & the owner told me the starting problem never returned (coincidence, luck, or found-it)  I will never know.   

 

I removed all the contacts, wire brushed them and or hit 'em with sandpaper and applied light film of dielectric grease yesterday, it has started every time since so perhaps there was a bad connection.... 

 

I really appreciate all the help. It is getting to be riding season in SWFLA but I'll try to let it sit for a few days and test the voltage periodically and report back.  I will get a new battery ordered as soon as I can locate an in stock authentic Yausa, not a fan of the replicas although they may roll off the same line.

Afternoon Dirtmerchant

 

Yes, this is interesting as some things point to a failing battery (8.5v you trapped during one cranking), some point to a bad charger (only getting to 14.1v on 2 different batteries), and you seem to be getting 10.5+v on most cranking tries. 

 

Poor cable connections could account for all except for the low battery charging output & even that c-o-u-l-d be effected by poor cable connections. 

[LAF]

I vote for a bad charger. 

 

The at rest voltages seem good, and the cranking voltages appears pretty decent.

 

It does not matter to a wethead if the battery hits a certain low voltage it will not start, period.  It has built in sensors to keep from frying the starter and various other electrons that a brown out, low voltage will cause.

 

I use a Optimate 4 which shoots varying voltages into the battery as it runs a test mode  I have seen 14.7 at the plug while in test mode..   It keeps increasing the voltage to make sure the batter can take a charge then it goes into charge, and then maintain modes.

 

I too am curios why you had a flat battery?

 

I left my GS sit for 3 weeks and it went flat enough not to start.  I jumped it with my car,  ground on the battery, and hot on the jump post with the red cap.  I just had to touch it and it started and a quick ride had it back in service. 

 

I am on 4 years running for 5 so I am due soon. 

 

IMHO it is your charger especially with your voltage numbers. 

 

That said I would find a dry battery and stock it then when you need it you add the acid pack and your good to go.

 

2018 Yuasa Battery AGM

 

I just ordered one off amazon for my GS.  93 Bucks.  It comes dry with a acid bottle so I have it at my convenience.  My GS uses a Yuasa YTX14H-BS Battery

[Dirtmerchant]

I've checked the voltage periodically over the past 30 hrs or so she is holding steady at 12.91v, I even started it multiple times without letting it run to see how it recovers. It was 12.64v right afterwards and came back up to 12.91v shortly thereafter.  EDIT -  Been holding at 12.91 for a couple days, going to temp fate and take the wife for a breakfast ride tomorrow... 

 

I think it was a combination of a bad connection on one of the 4 contacts that I cleaned and a compatibility issue with this charger. 

 

@LAF The bike display went black and wouldn't start so I can't say the battery was "flat" as I didn't check the voltage at that time, just put the charger on it. Based on what you said about the low V protections in the system, I think a bad connection could cause that. I cleaned every contact point and put dielectric grease on all contacts.  I am going to get a Yuasa YTX20H-BS and have it on the shelf when the battery does flake out and look into getting another charger for this bike. 

Quote

 

 

[LAF]

16 hours ago, Dirtmerchant said:

I've checked the voltage periodically over the past 30 hrs or so she is holding steady at 12.91v, I even started it multiple times without letting it run to see how it recovers. It was 12.64v right afterwards and came back up to 12.91v shortly thereafter. 

 

I think it was a combination of a bad connection on one of the 4 contacts that I cleaned and a compatibility issue with this charger. 

 

@LAF The bike display went black and wouldn't start so I can't say the battery was "flat" as I didn't check the voltage at that time, just put the charger on it. Based on what you said about the low V protections in the system, I think a bad connection could cause that. I cleaned every contact point and put dielectric grease on all contacts.  I am going to get a Yuasa YTX20H-BS and have it on the shelf when the battery does flake out and look into getting another charger for this bike. 

 

Well that battery sounds find at rest 12.8 is what the gold star is so you are in great shape there, also it is recovering so that is good.  The only other thing you can do is pull the battery and take it to Advance Auto and have them load test it. 

 

I have seen strange battery symptoms and many where all appeared good but with running or vibration a plate may be loose in the case or any number of things.  As I say I got my style on Amazon and it was 93 bucks and is dry and comes with the acid bottle.   I did not usually buy a dry battery but I read on another forum and decided it is a smart way to go when your unsure of your battery or your replacing on a schedule of 5 years like I have decided to do.   I may be showing my age but the last time I filled a battery myself the acid came in a heavy duty plastic bag with a spout on it.

 

I cant remember when battery's went to crap and do not last very long.  Or maybe we just have so many electronic that we ask a lot of a battery of this size to go more then 5 years?

[Dirtmerchant]

I had a Odyssey PC680 in my CamHead, it was going on 6-years old when I traded it; sure wish they made one to fit the WC RT's....  

 

The battery is still holding voltage so going to take my wife on a breakfast ride, will report back tomorrow. 

[WBinDE]

FWIW I had unreliable starting on a new R 1250 GSA, it never stranded me at home, only when out :(  Factory battery was replaced under warranty after a couple of thousand miles. That was replaced under warranty within 1,000 miles. Second warranty replacement now has over 40K and is still going strong.

[Dirtmerchant]

Bike wouldn't start this morning.....  

 

Due to the supply chain issues and labor shortage at the manufacturer I couldn't find a Yuasa YTX20CH or GYZ16H battery anywhere in the US. After a bunch of reading I decided to order a MotoBatt MBTX16U through Amazon, should be here in a couple days. I'm also going to replace the battery in the key fob for good measure and ordered an OptiMate 4 Dual Program Battery Charger for BMW CANbus from Revzilla to eliminate the possibility of a compatibility issue with the bike.

 

 

Will report back to hopefully close this issue out.

[Scott9999]

 

Whatever happened to your bike could also happen to mine, so yeah, I (we) appreciate you documenting the conclusion.

[Dirtmerchant]

I ended up taking the bike to the dealer, they had it several days and could not replicate the issue and it has behaved perfectly since I brought it home. I had a couple codes that were associated with low voltage which I cleared with my GS-911, perhaps that was causing an issue.... :dunno