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New (to me) 2018 R1200RT with 12K; what maintenance should I consider this winter?


Scott9999

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Still waiting on shipping/delivery, but I picked up a 2018 R1200RT (Premium equipped) motorcycle with just under 12K on the clock.  The dealer just completed the 12K service, including the routine oil and filter service, new spark plugs, air filter, valve clearance check, and a brake flush.  I figure I'll be able to get a couple of rides in before the Northern Idaho winter sets it's hook, and then I'll be staring at the bike for about 4 months in my garage.

 

So, does anyone have suggestions on what I should (could) be doing, maintenance wise, over the winter layup?

 

I'll be picking up a CANBUS compatible trickle charger (maybe the Optimate TM-351 or TM-191 - I'm still in learning mode).  Also, the bike has only been in actual service just over 30 months, and is still under warranty.  However, if the battery is original, it may need replacement.

 

I'm aware of the cam lobes and dead alternator/charging issues for these RT's, particularly in some of the early versions of this model (i.e. 2014-2015).   Neither should be an issue  with this one (but they'll probably cost me a little sleepy, anyhow).  I picked up a service manual, and am scouring the internet for maintenance related videos and docs, relevant to the wetheads.

 

Of course, there are lots of (i.e. endless!) farkles to consider (e.g. BMW/Garmin NAV 6, maybe a set of Sargent seats, crash/tip over bars to protect the headers, maybe lighting additions, paint protection films), but I'll go slow on that, since I'm not entirely certain that I still want to ride.  My last bike (2006 R1200RT) was sold in 2015, and I've haven't ridden since.  The helmets probably need replacing (wife's and mine).  I'll need some new boots, probably gloves, too, but my other riding gear may be OK, if the moths haven't gotten to it.  Anyhow, I'm not going to go $$crazy$$ immediately (well, at least not until I pay the loan down so my wife can rest a bit easier  😏).

 

But again, returning to service issues to handle over the winter, I'd appreciate feedback on "what should I do" on a 2.5 year old, 12K mile R1200RT "wethead"?  

The rubber is new (and balanced at the dealership). 

 

I'm kinda naturally verbose, so I'll stop with my own ideas here, switch to "receiving" mode, and allow folks here to chime in (i.e. without first falling asleep reading this post).

 

Thanks.

Scott

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If you can get the tools to check cam timing it's worth the effort.  Also check the rear splines, not uncommon to find them rusted. Not typical for the dealer to check either item.  Do a YouTube search for Boxflyer, Brad's maintenance videos are most excellent!

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I thought "cam timing" was handled during the valve clearance service check, part of the 12K dealer service.  Is there a difference?

 

I found Brad's video, and will review.

 

As far as the two gear splines (i.e. rear drive-driveshaft, driveshaft-transmission), I'll probably do that service the next time I have the rear wheel off, and will include checks of every related bearing I can easily reach.  The brakes may be due at the next 6K check, too, so they'll get a check.   I'll have to shake off the mental rust.   After a while, all the stuff I've done, i.e. from rebuilding 2-stroke dirt bikes end to end, to doing the same with my old 2003 RT-P, kind of merges together in my memories.  I'm not a natural wrench, and I don't do mechanical repairs often, which means I have just enough expertise to be dangerous, if I don't research stuff carefully.  (Hence, this thread.)

 

The rear splines on the oilhead models were a bigger deal, mainly because (if I recall correctly), there was a factory misalignment on the transmission-driveshaft splines, which when they failed, required major transmission service.  So, folks were regularly lubricating them to avoid larger problems.  I haven't heard of similar issues with the R1200RT's (Hex or Wetheads), other than the factory seems to leave them on the dry side.  So, I'm not all that concerned about the issue (he says this as his rear drive splines crater after the first ride :dopeslap:). 

 

Thanks, guys, for the feedback.

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BMW doesn't call for the cam timing check in any service. Highly doubt the dealer checked it. 

 

Here is a couple of photos of the rear splines from my 2016 R1200GS at 8000 miles, not uncommon on GS and RT models. There is an issue with the grease used BMW on the boot. Can't recall correct grease for the boot but it's in one of Brad's videos on the subject. 20180902_211934.thumb.jpg.34b36fec3e257ede31c5e6dbb7957ef6.jpg20180902_211645.thumb.jpg.19d92c211ade98289e4f87233a79a9fe.jpg

 

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Click THIS LINK to show my post about Shift Cam 12 k service.  In that thread, I posted photos of what my F/D splines looked like at 24, 000 miles.  Prior services were performed by dealers at every 6 k miles and it is apparent that the boot lube was dried out as it never was needed to be separated as part of the routine services at the dealer.   

 

I ride that bike rain or shine, and the crud you see was from the ride up to the Shift Cam Tech Day Demo, hosted by Boxflyer, at FART; there was heavy rain and quite a bit of debris on the BRP, etc.   The splines were cleaned and lubed using Honda M-77 Assembly Paste and the boot sealing area was cleaned and lubed with White Lithium Grease NLGI #2.  It was the factory grease that was dried out and allowed moisture / condensation to enter.

 

The valves being checked at the dealer leaves me wondering if they bother at all.  If they did the check, they may not change out any shims if they are close to tolerance.  I had L/F intake valve close to tight tolerance, in which we changed a shim to put it in the middle of the range.  See that Shift Cam thread about details on that.

 

Cheers!

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Well, lubricating the FD splines is pretty easy, so I'll schedule that for sometime between now and Christmas.  The cam chain timing check, with the special tools required, is another animal altogether.  I'll start researching that after the first snow. 

 

As far as wbw6cos' comment regarding dealer valve checks, I agree.  Dealer's techs are looking at the minimums, not the optimums, due to labor rates and pressure to push bike's through service bays quicker.  I'd much rather do most services myself, for just that reason.  I used to hate adjusting valves on the 2003 bike, but I'm probably gonna hate having to pay for and/or wait for a shim kit, even more.  (I noted that there are some universal kits out there; will have to do some research and shopping.  Seems like this one might work, if shims are required.  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006573A6I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1  )

 

I was hoping that with this bike having just been serviced, I could coast for a while before turning wrenches, but all of the above suggestions are wise.  I'll need to spend some time under the plastic this winter, or I'm just begging for a break down some place where I'd rather not be stationary.  

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I think you be fine using the bike the way it is.

Most dealers do a good job in servicing the bikes.

As for the final drive splines, that is not suggested in BMW list of service and that is why the dealers don’t service it, unless requested.

The Cam timing and valve clearance is not such a big deal on the WetHeads. If the dealer checked the valve gap and it is within the recommended range, you be fine for 6 or 12K miles. As for the Cam Timing, you should also be fine unless you experience hard starting or starting requires more then one try.

So go for a ride and enjoy your new bike.

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Well, Bernie, you made an excellent point, and thanks for the advice.  I haven't even RIDDEN the darn thing yet, and here I'm already planning "required" service for this winter.  I guess I'm a true BMW rider.   🤣🤣  It might be best to ride it a few days to figure out any idiosyncrasies, before I plan the "overhaul", right?

 

In fact, I'm buying this RT from a dealership sight unseen, and therefore, un-tested, for which my son believes I've gone senile early.   However, at less than 3 years old, with a full service history (dealer serviced), having just completed the 20K (12,000 mile) service, as it's still under warranty, with no (known/disclosed) bumps or bruises, and at less than 12,000 miles on the clock, and I figure this is a low risk purchase.  We'll see in a couple of weeks when it finally shows up.

 

(I should also mention that I have, what I guess I should call, a permanent disability.  I broke my left leg and ankle 15 years ago, and at this point the ankle is bone-on-bone.   It's sometimes weak, sometimes painful, usually at least "discomfort" level, and I've nearly collapsed climbing stairs, so I'm not sure how shifting or holding up the bike will work out.  Will be doing some physical therapy on the ankle this winter to strengthen it (and maybe even lose a few pounds), which should help.  However, bottom line is I don't even know if I'll be able to ride the bike.  Again, we'll see what happens, but I'm gonna give it at least one last try with this bike.👍🍻)  

 

I'm already going winter-stir-crazy, waiting for the bike, and anticipating the winter layover.  It's been in the high 20's the last couple of nights here in Northern Idaho, with daytime temps in the 50's and 60's.  Two weeks from now, it could be snowing.  I'd feel pretty stupid (even more than buying a motorcycle in October in Northern Idaho!) if I sat on my tail all winter, rolled out the bike in April, and only then figured out I had service things I should of done, preventing me from riding it.  I can't ride it now, so I guess that I'm thinking of excuses to write about it. 🙄😖

 

It's early, but here's a picture of it at the dealership.  (I did note some fading on the black plastic, a sign that much if not all of it's 2.5 years were spent in the California sun.  So, I've got some cosmetic work to do.)  Also, fyi, I've been deliberately vague about the dealership and location, as I don't want to say anything pos/neg until I actually have the bike.  Will update with that stuff later.

R1200RT_A.jpg

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No, I had the choice between the red, the carbon or the white and I am happy with the white. But this bike looks almost like new. A little wax over spray on the front fender. But that should clean up. 

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Could be wax overspray on that fender.  However, I've also seen that kind of plastic "oxidation" (or fading, I'm not sure what else to call it) on auto and motorcycle black plastics, particularly those that are not garaged, and in the sun constantly.  Either way, it should clean up.  I was surprised it was for sale on the dealer's lot without detailing that away.  They were supposed to detail the bike prior to pickup, but after 10 days or 2 weeks on a covered hauler, it'll be dusty anyhow.   Definitely not a deal killer.

 

Edit: (That red color DOES look fast, doesn't it?😁    Hmmm, next I guess that I need to invest in a quality radar detector.)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just taking this full circle (though I've written some of this in other posts on the forum).

 

Received the bike.  Took one quick ride (see pix overlooking my house and the lake).  Registration upon receipt said "Loaner #1" written on it, which was not disclosed to me before purchase.  The bike was heavily oxidized, and minimally detailed.  I cleaned up a lot of the worst stuff (i.e. black tupperware that looked 20 years old) in just 40 minutes with Mother's "Back to black".   The dealership was great about everything else I asked for, but it's major negative if (a) they don't disclose that the bike has been used as a loaner/service bike with multiple riders for a good portion (or maybe all) of it's service life, and (b) not even bothering to clean it up.  (I was shocked that they put this on the showroom floor like this.  If I had been a salesman on that floor, I'd have detailed the thing myself (i.e. 40 minutes to an hour), just to make it look half way decent, to make a sale.)

 

The latter is a nit, the former (service usage of the bike) is pretty major.  Then again, regarding disclosure, they apparently had no idea that they were selling a "Premium" model (i.e. $22K minimum in 2018), and I only found out about it still being under warranty after the sale.  It may be more an issue of incompetence than deceptive malice.   Therefore, the dealership I purchased the bike from, which was 100% "straight A's" on sales and service, and I looked forward to lauding about, is  .... just not gonna be named.  This bike could be a gem, or it could end up being (another) dog, (I'm getting a reputation finding and buying those kinds of things 🤣😖), only time will tell.   They get a "C", as in, strictly an average dealer, in my books.

 

I've only ridden it once.  I found out when I opened my motorcycle gear box, that my body armor didn't survive my 2015 move (well, at least, the body armor that MIGHT have still fit me).   We've had some good weather, but I've been too busy to get back on it again, and the lack of proper gear, makes me doubly reticent to dive in.   I already put on a stock screen and removed the sport screen, and would at least like to see how much difference that makes (i.e. before I start dreaming of a Werks replacement, lol).

 

It's on a battery tender now.  I'll drain the Ethanol-laced-gas I'm sure this came with, and fill non-Ethanol-91 Octane Premium.  The BMW manual that I glanced at tells me to get both wheels off the ground, which I've done on other Beemers for maintenance, but I'm not sure if I'll bother for just a 3 month period.   I'll tarp it after the last ride, set the insurance to "non-use", and call it good for the winter lay-up.  It's already bedded down for the winter in it's little nook in the corner of the garage, more or less.  (Now I have to figure what to do with all the stuff that got kicked out of the garage for the winter, to make room for her. 🤣)

R1200RT_at_HauserLake.jpg

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Great Color and Congrats Scotty! 
Long term, take a peak at your break pads and bleed them if it wasn’t done. 
Change the battery, nuff said. 
And get some new armor under the Xmas tree! 
Also change or add new hand grip padding. 
Seat upgrade to Sargent or Corbin and you’ll be all set.

When it’s time, put her on the CS, pull the air out, plug in the tender, and cover her un till March!  

 

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  • 1 year later...

I put maybe 250 miles on the bike last year (i.e. a total fail!).   Yeah, it had the 12K service just before I got it in fall 2021, and I'm not even at 12K yet.  It's mostly sat for a year to maybe 18 months, so I need to service it.

 

I plan to:

1) Change engine oil (transmission shares the engine oil, right? So no trans service needed?)

2) R&R brake fluid and bleed brakes & ABS.  Brembo Dot4 LV looks like the right stuff at $20 per liter.  I shouldn't need more, even if I flush it several times. (Can't store the stuff anyhow.)

3) Check and top off clutch fluid (mineral oil) and radiator (BMW's secret sauce).  I understand that neither require regular flush service, so I'll only flush the clutch if the fluid looks too dark.

4) Tire check.  Don't really know how old these things are, were supposed to be "new", but I could tell that maybe they had 1000 miles on them.  If they're more than 2 years old, I'll probably change them for PR#'s, PR4 or PR5, whatever, 'cause I just LOVE fresh rubber.

5) Spline check/lube, and R&R final drive fluid.  I think it was done just before they sold me the bike, but again, due to the time it's been sitting, I'm going to change it anyhow (Yippee, it's got a drain valve! EZ!  Oh, never mind, I've got to drop the final drive to get to the drive shaft for inspection anyhow 🙄)

6) Not going to bother with the valve and related engine maintenance until the 18k service.

 

Anything obvious that I've missed, or any suggestions?  I have the manual plus ample advice here and on other BMW enthusiast sites, so the procedures should be simple to figure out.

I'm also doing other stuff, changing out the grips (if I can avoid buggering up the heat coils), some additional farkling.

 

It was 50F today. :5188:

 

I just want to have the bike ready to go, and see if I can still REALLY ride one of these thingys (i.e. physical health).  We could get crushed with more snow and ice before Spring is officially here, but I'm guessing from the way winter has gone thus far, there will be some nice riding weather in March and April.

 

Thanks.

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Scott...I don't have much if anything to add, but let me start with good on you!  On the first ride of the day, I check all lights, low, high, turn, brake. I check fluids too, but since you are changing them no issue.

 

After sitting that long, not sure of your humidity,  I would check the mount for the GPS and battery for any corrosion.

 

My bike usually sits from July to September and I do pretty much what you have outlined except the final drive grease.  I only do that every 2-3 years.

 

It's going to be 39 degrees tomorrow morning in Houston and I have plans for a 360 mile ride.  Can't wait.  Love me some cool dry weather...hate me some hot and humid.

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Scott, I understand your love of new tires, but at 2 years old your tires should be fine, usually good for 6 years if tread is good, so you might be able to save some money there. Give them a good inspection, checking for cracks between the treads, and weather cracking on the sidewalls.

But, new rubber will never be discouraged by me, often the best money spent.

Good riding to you!

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