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replacing clutch kit -'98 R11RT


WRP

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Am gearing up to replace the clutch pak on my '98 R11RT~ 140Kmi. I used Chris Harris' video when I lubed the splines a year or so ago, not a big challenge but more than a day or two on the rack. 
   Questions 1)- are there other things to swap out while I'm in there? Specifically thinking about the rear crank oil seal, assuming no leaks weeps or seeps, should I replace it anyway? Seems like a pita to r&r the flywheel if not needed. HES  replaced @ ~104K ( was in good condition, I suppose due to living in the cooler coastal environs). Maybe neutral switch ? Clutch cable, for sure.
    2) might as well replace the swingarm pivot bearings. Are the tapered rollers still fine, or are there updates like the final drive pivots?

    Any tips appreciated. b

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14 minutes ago, WRP said:

Am gearing up to replace the clutch pak on my '98 R11RT~ 140Kmi. I used Chris Harris' video when I lubed the splines a year or so ago, not a big challenge but more than a day or two on the rack. 
   Questions 1)- are there other things to swap out while I'm in there? Specifically thinking about the rear crank oil seal, assuming no leaks weeps or seeps, should I replace it anyway? Seems like a pita to r&r the flywheel if not needed. HES  replaced @ ~104K ( was in good condition, I suppose due to living in the cooler coastal environs). Maybe neutral switch ? Clutch cable, for sure.
    2) might as well replace the swingarm pivot bearings. Are the tapered rollers still fine, or are there updates like the final drive pivots?

    Any tips appreciated. b

Evening WRP

 

 Questions

 

1)- are there other things to swap out while I'm in there? Specifically thinking about the rear crank oil seal, assuming no leaks weeps or seeps, should I replace it anyway? Seems like a pita to r&r the flywheel if not needed.-- That is a difficult call, if it's leaking then yes, if it isn't seeping or leaking then probably not unless you have access to the the correct seal installation tools. You c-a-n do it without specialty diver but I have seen a number leak after installing without proper driver.    

 

Maybe neutral switch ? Clutch cable, -- If you see signs of gear oil leaking into the switch then yes replace but otherwise use common sense. Good idea on clutch cable replacement. 


 2) might as well replace the swingarm pivot bearings.-- Good idea.

 

Are the tapered rollers still fine, or are there updates like the final drive pivots?--  Personally I use the stock BMW needle bearings but there are aftermarket bushings  (I have seen some of those cause issues if not kept adjusted). 

 

  Any tips appreciated-- Look closely at the front inputs shaft seal for seepage & check rear output seal for seepage (replace if needed)

Also check the rear seal on the shift drum as those have been known to leak. 

 

Also check the drive shaft for U joint issues  & rubber damper degradation.  

 

And carefully check the clutch arm release bearing (or at least inspect &  re-lube)  

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Is the driveshaft original? If so I'd seriously consider replacing it. as long as you're in there. There have been many instances over the years of u-joints coming apart at the 100K mile point. At the very least check your u-joints for smooth action.

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