RT clutch smell, should I be worried?

[nerdybiker]

I live in an area filled with hills and valleys and I often have to start at an intersection with the front brake on and do the brake-rev-clutch-release-pull forward maneuver in order to get going without rolling backward. Every time I do this, I smell my clutch as I pull away. While braked, I rev up to 3000 or so, release the clutch till it bogs down to 2300 or so, then release my brake and pull away.

 

Is this technique causing excess burning of my clutch and will I be replacing it if I continue to use this technique?

 

Any words on technique or personal experience of clutch wear from any riders of hilly areas? You all rock, so thank you!!

[Ken H.]

Yes you are wearing your clutch faster than normal. How much that will shorten its life is any body's guess.

 

But why such high revs? You should be able to do the same maneuver with 1500 RPM. You'd be surprised how much low end, low RPM torque the boxer engine has to pull away in these kind of situations.

[St0nkingByte]

I live in an area filled with hills and valleys and I often have to start at an intersection with the front brake on and do the brake-rev-clutch-release-pull forward maneuver in order to get going without rolling backward. Every time I do this, I smell my clutch as I pull away. While braked, I rev up to 3000 or so, release the clutch till it bogs down to 2300 or so, then release my brake and pull away.

 

Is this technique causing excess burning of my clutch and will I be replacing it if I continue to use this technique?

 

Any words on technique or personal experience of clutch wear from any riders of hilly areas? You all rock, so thank you!!

I am also from the land of hills and valleys Here's how I do it. Sitting on the hill I'm holding in place with the rear brake, the light turns green I clutch/throttle a normal start but I hang onto that rear brake pressure for an extra second then just come off the rear brake smoothly as the bike starts moving. Dragging the rear brake a teensy bit makes for a much smoother start and you don't have to worry about revving high and putting the strain on your clutch.

[Pickaxe]

I live in an area filled with hills and valleys and I often have to start at an intersection with the front brake on and do the brake-rev-clutch-release-pull forward maneuver in order to get going without rolling backward. Every time I do this, I smell my clutch as I pull away. While braked, I rev up to 3000 or so, release the clutch till it bogs down to 2300 or so, then release my brake and pull away.

 

Is this technique causing excess burning of my clutch and will I be replacing it if I continue to use this technique?

 

Any words on technique or personal experience of clutch wear from any riders of hilly areas? You all rock, so thank you!!

BMW use different clutch lining material, which smells quite strongly. And as BMWs are dry clutches, open to atmosphere, it makes it more apparent anyway.

[eaglemike]

My 05RT now has about 6K miles. I don't slip the clutch much at all - I've never worn out a clutch on a BMW or any other bike. My bike went through a phase where is did smell some - then it went away. I'd guess that if it continues, you might try some of the technique suggestions above. When I'm on a hill as you describe, I'll often use the rear brake to hold, so I can more easily manipulate the throttle and clutch. I usually use a lower rpm than you describe. The bike does run better and make more power just off idle than it used to. I'm also getting more used to it. It's quite surprising how much low-end this bike has (and yes I've owned BMW's before). I'm thinking you'll find your happy spot with the clutch action soon!

 

all the best,

 

Mike

[ShovelStrokeEd]

I wouldn't worry over much but your technique is not good for the clutch. You do need to learn the proper sequence of clutch and throttle control and, as Ken has already stated, you can take off, even on the steepest hills at very little above idle speed.

 

A couple of preliminary adjustments will help matters.

 

First, play with the adjuster on your clutch lever so that the engagement point is as close to the bars as possible. You have much better motor control over your fingers the closer they are to a fist.

 

Second, remove nearly all the play from the throttle, do leave a bit and make sure that turning the bars fully in both directions doesn't change things.

 

OK, now start on level ground and try this, don't give the bike any throttle and slowly release the clutch to the point it begins to engage. You will feel the bike start to pull a little. That, or just before it, should be your starting point.

 

Now, when you are ready, move your eyes up to the horizon, you don't need a tach for this, and slowly release the clutch and while doing so, use just enough throttle to keep the revs from dropping or rising. OK to let the revs climb a bit but you seek to pull the bike away from a stop with the throttle, not the clutch lever. Keep goiing with more and more clutch and only a tiny bit more throttle and you will be away.

 

With just a bit of practice, this should become completely natural. Now move to a slight incline and repeat. You'll find that by smoothly releasing the clutch lever you will only have to slightly vary your throttle control from that which you used on the level.

 

Repeat as needed until you can pull the bike away at even a sharp incline with very little revving at all.

 

BTW, should the bike stall while you are learning the clutch/throttle thing, don't panic, just pull in the clutch and you should have no trouble returning your feet to the ground. Most times when I am moving off from a stop, my feet actually go to the pegs as soon as I start to engage the clutch. I find much better balance that way. You can, using this technique both get your feet on the pegs and have the clutch fully out before the bike has rolled much more than a single length.

[RoadJunkie]

I have also experienced the clutch odor when starting on an incline, especially riding two up with a full touring load. I suspect we have about 330 lbs worth of passenger load with approx 50 lb of cargo, so not real heavy. I've tried some of the technique outlined in the previous post, but I have stalled the bike on occasion. I have not had this trouble with previous bikes and I wonder if first gear is simply to high.

 

The ideas presented here are excellent and I'll try the ones I haven't tried yet.

[ShovelStrokeEd]

It's all in the wrist, or in my case the hand. I don't actually use my wrist to control the throttle so much as change the pressure on the grip using the muscles that control my palm and fingers. Two fingers still on the front brake and a little change in the way the pinky side of my palm places pressure on the grip.

 

I use the same technique with the throttle for almost all my riding. Much finer control of throttle movement that way and it allows me to cover that front brake.

[JohnH]

The main problem is that 1st gear is geared way too high. With six gears to work with, you'd think BMW could get it right.

[Ken H.]

The main problem is that 1st gear is geared way too high. With six gears to work with, you'd think BMW could get it right.

With all due respect to a newer member - Baloney.

 

2-up or single, fully loaded with a passenger & 150 lbs of gear or empty. Up hill, down hill, or sideways, I've never started off from a stop with 3000 RPM showing. It's all in the learning how. Don't blame BMW for improper operation of the machine!

[aggieengineer]

Every time I ride my RT, I wish it had a lower first gear. I've been riding for 35 years, so I know how to use a clutch. This is purely a matter of preference. BMW didn't get it wrong or get it right. They simply made a choice of gear ratios that some like and some don't.

[swiftav8or]

I recently purchased an '06 RT and just took it in for the 600 mile service. The clutch smelled quite a bit during my first few rides so I reported that to the tech. He checked the s/n and determined that my bike is covered by a re-call that specifies replacement of the clutch. He was unable to confirm if the smell was related to the recall though, but you may wish to check. The bike is still at the dealership awaiting a new clutch so I don't know if the replacement will fix the smell and other than that I had no other problems with it.

 

The tech did say that the re-call covers a specific range of both '05 and '06 R12RT's. Good luck.

 

Ken in Asheville, NC

[ScottT]

The tech did say that the re-call covers a specific range of both '05 and '06 R12RT's. Good luck.

Yeah, right. Some of you out there believe ANYTHING you hear. Yes, 1st is a little too tall, but a recall? Learn to ride and RIDE.

[PaulW42]

The tech did say that the re-call covers a specific range of both '05 and '06 R12RT's. Good luck.

Yeah, right. Some of you out there believe ANYTHING you hear. Yes, 1st is a little too tall, but a recall? Learn to ride and RIDE.

 

There is a recall on some clutches. As far as I can gather, more of a manufacturing defect so unlikely to change anything else.

 

My 1200GS clutch used to stink when new but the RT has been fine. Maybe different materials from different suppliers?

 

Of course the 1200 engine is pretty stiff when new which does make 1st gear tough work until you are used to it. This soon goes as the engine loosens up and you get to know what to expect.

[Pickaxe]

The tech did say that the re-call covers a specific range of both '05 and '06 R12RT's. Good luck.

Yeah, right. Some of you out there believe ANYTHING you hear. Yes, 1st is a little too tall, but a recall? Learn to ride and RIDE.

 

There is a recall on some clutches. As far as I can gather, more of a manufacturing defect so unlikely to change anything else.

 

My 1200GS clutch used to stink when new but the RT has been fine. Maybe different materials from different suppliers?

 

Of course the 1200 engine is pretty stiff when new which does make 1st gear tough work until you are used to it. This soon goes as the engine loosens up and you get to know what to expect.

Exactly the same experience with my GS and RT, but more likely that you don't smell the RT as much, due to the enclosed nature of the engine/gearbox on the RT.

This subject has also been extensively covered in the UKGSer forum. Conclusion, nothing to worry about and no premature clutch failures.