Idiot gas light light but A

[adventurer2112]

Hi Just bought 97 R1100RT 84 K miles.
+ PO installed Ohlins, SS brake lines, Twin Max synched throttle bodies, new tires. 
- Front engine cover melted a little bit. PO put 8 15 amp fuses in box. Put correct fuse amps in.  

 

Front brake sticks, I have to move brake lever

forward to unstick front brake. 
Would a front brake rebuild fix this or so I need to buy the $400 front brake from Beemer boneyard.  Or is there something else that

might work ?

 

im going to change all fluids. Bought an alternator pulley belt, spark plugs, spark plug wires, HE s, quick fuel disconnects. Fuel / submersible fuel hoses, ,air, oil filters.front engine cover. Installed a good RID., but broke dash board. Plasti welded, good for now.

 

Any other recommendations?

 

Jack

[adventurer2112]

Hi

Also idiot gas light lit but RID doesn’t light up.

how do I calibrate the 2, so they are in sync?

thanks in advance. 
Jack

[fatbob]

Jack:

the RID doesn’t light up when the low fuel light comes on.   How many bars did the fuel gage read when the low fuel light came on?  One or two?
 

I suspect a master cylinder rebuild on the front brakes will cure the sticking issue.  

[szurszewski]

Fuel gauge and low fuel warning light are totally separate systems. The gauge sensor is a float in a tube. The light is a float on an arm. There are some common failures and fixes for the tube system. Is your readout stuck at a certain number of bars, or is there no fuel display at all?

[adventurer2112]

Hi

Thanks for the quick responses.

2 bars on RID when idiot gas light would intermittently flash yellow.

7 bars after non - ethanol fill up.?

Rear brake pulses when used singely. 
 

[dirtrider]

18 minutes ago, adventurer2112 said:

Hi

Thanks for the quick responses.

2 bars on RID when idiot gas light would intermittently flash yellow.

7 bars after non - ethanol fill up.?

Rear brake pulses when used singely. 
 

Evening adventurer2112

 

Unless the rear brake rotor was damaged during a tire change the typical cause of rear brake pulsation is due to rotor staining. 

 

That rotor staining is usually caused from the motorcycle sitting without moving for an extended time in a moist environment (or parked for a time with damp brake pads after washing the motorcycle).

 

The brake pads cause an almost invisible oxidation or staining on the rotor surface that causes a braking friction increase in that stained area  as the brake pads cross that area of the rotor. 

 

Rotor staining can sometimes be a pain to remove (depending on how bad it is & how deep the oxidation).

 

Try vigorously cleaning the  rotor  using a red Scotch pad  & brake clean. You usually need to really scrub at it to reduce the higher friction area. In some cases it takes using wet/dry sand paper & really working at it. I have seen staining so bad that I have had to remove the rotor & give it a very light bead blasting using well worn very fine glass beads at a  low air pressure. 

 

Problem with some staining is you can't always see it & can't measure it as it is just a friction increase in one (brake pad) sized area.

 

On your fuel gauge/light, the place to start is to clean the terminal pins on the fuel pump pass through where the fuel pump pigtail plugs into the main chassis harness. The fuel pump & fuel gauge/low fuel light share a common ground & that has been an issue on some older 1100/1150 motorcycles.   

[adventurer2112]

Thanks.  I’m going to get the panels off during the week, so I can clean the wiring with Deoxit. 
Have to figure out the rotors. I thought maybe it was worn out @ 84 k miles.

Jacj

[dirtrider]

10 hours ago, adventurer2112 said:

Thanks.  I’m going to get the panels off during the week, so I can clean the wiring with Deoxit. 
Have to figure out the rotors. I thought maybe it was worn out @ 84 k miles.

Jacj

Morning  adventurer2112

 

The rotor might very well be worn thin but that isn't the cause of your brake pulsation.

[adventurer2112]

Hi

Ok. Thanks.

J