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Spark plugs


joeb

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Last week I installed NGK BK R7EIX plugs (iridium) in my '99 R1100S. $9.49 ea.   The Bosch R6 868 were looking worn at 24K.

 

About the only testimonial I can give you is that they fit and the engine starts.

 

O'Reilly's had several different plugs listed for this bike.  NGK BK R6EIX (iridium and colder)  $9.79 ea, O'Reily #6418

 

In copper core, dual electrode (very similar tho the Bosch R6-868 in looks) NGKBKR7EKC-N.  $6.49 EA, o'rEILY #2095

 

Also, Autolite copper core, O'Reily #3923 (single electrode),  about $2.50 ea, I think.

 

Only the best for my darlin.

 

 

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3 hours ago, joeb said:

Hi all. 03 1150rt

How often should spark plugs be changed and which plugs work best if not getting them from a BMW dealer?

Afternoon Joeb

 

You have an 03RT so is it a single spark engine (1 spark plug on each side) or a twin spark engine 1 upper 1 one lower spark plug on each side (4 plugs total)? It makes a difference. 

 

 

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11 hours ago, joeb said:

1 plug each side

Morning Joeb

 

The BMW recommended spark plug is the NGK BKR7EKC, you can get them on-line or a lot of local auto parts stores either have them in stock  or can order them in for you. The NGK BKR7EKC is a dual electrode spark plug (one center electrode & 2 side electrodes).  

 

You can usually find the NGK BKR7EKC on E-Bay at a decent price but you have to be careful of counterfeit  spark plugs on E-Bay, the NGK BKR7EKC are usually not a big counterfeit item but that doesn't mean that they aren't sold.  

 

Or,  I used to run the Autolite 3922  in some of my single spark 1150 bikes, but I typically ride longer distances at very high speeds. Some riders use the  Autolite 3923 but are a slightly hotter heat range than the stock 1150 spark plugs (the 3922 are a closer match to the stock spark plugs on the 1150). If your 1150 is a oil user/burner then the Autolite 3923 is probably a better choice.  

 

About the only issues that I ever seen on the Autolite 3922 or 3923 was early electrode wear (they are only a single electrode plug) & some combustion pressure leakage at the porcelain-to-base interface. 

 

12,000 miles is a good sparkplug replacement miles on the 1150 single spark motorcycle,  or to make it easy, just replace the spark  plugs every other valve adjustment. That is just a recommended mileage but it really boils down to the number of  sparks per mile traveled.  

 

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I've used Bosch 4417 Platinum +4 in my '99 R1100RT with good results.  Seemed to tame surging a bit VS the OEM specified spark plugs.  Initially I ran the Bosch 4418 Platinum +4, but thought the heat range was a touch too high when inspecting the insulator color after putting some miles on the plugs and dropped one heat range step to the 4417

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 9/10/2021 at 8:00 AM, Paul De said:

I've used Bosch 4417 Platinum +4 in my '99 R1100RT with good results.  Seemed to tame surging a bit VS the OEM specified spark plugs.  Initially I ran the Bosch 4418 Platinum +4, but thought the heat range was a touch too high when inspecting the insulator color after putting some miles on the plugs and dropped one heat range step to the 4417

I initially put the Autolite 3923's in and thought they were fine. I now also run the Bosch 4417's and have noticed a considerable difference in surging in my 02 1150rt 

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 9/10/2021 at 6:20 AM, dirtrider said:

"About the only issues that I ever seen on the Autolite 3922 or 3923 was early electrode wear (they are only a single electrode plug) & some combustion pressure leakage at the porcelain-to-base interface." 

 

I'd be willing to bet that you're not seeing combustion pressure leakage at the porcelain-to-base interface. You're seeing corona stain, which is perfectly normal. See attached - from Federal-Mogul...  See also https://www.aftermarketnews.com/five-things-you-need-to-know-about-spark-plugs/

 

 

1518.pdf

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Quote

'd be willing to bet that you're not seeing combustion pressure leakage at the porcelain-to-base interface. You're seeing corona stain, which is perfectly normal. See attached - from Federal-Mogul...  See also https://www.aftermarketnews.com/five-things-you-need-to-know-about-spark-plugs/

Morning carmicheals

 

That is a definitive possibility but I have seen a lot of brownish looking Corona staining  in my life (even on OEM spark plugs) but what I have seen on the Autolite 3922 or 3923 is more blackish combustion looking & positional. 

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On 10/30/2021 at 6:41 AM, dirtrider said:

"...but what I have seen on the Autolite 3922 or 3923 is more blackish combustion looking & positional." 

Combustion gas leakage - even in small amounts - would smoke the plug wire boot in short order. Been there, done that.

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12 minutes ago, carmicheals said:

Combustion gas leakage - even in small amounts - would smoke the plug wire boot in short order. Been there, done that.

Morning  carmicheals

 

Not that I have seen unless the leakage is great enough to send a jet of hot gas out. I'm not talking about that, just a small seepage of combustion gas at the porcelain to base gasket area over time. 

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  • 2 months later...
Kilrush R1150RT
On 9/10/2021 at 12:20 PM, dirtrider said:

Morning Joeb

 

The BMW recommended spark plug is the NGK BKR7EKC, you can get them on-line or a lot of local auto parts stores either have them in stock  or can order them in for you. The NGK BKR7EKC is a dual electrode spark plug (one center electrode & 2 side electrodes).  

 

You can usually find the NGK BKR7EKC on E-Bay at a decent price but you have to be careful of counterfeit  spark plugs on E-Bay, the NGK BKR7EKC are usually not a big counterfeit item but that doesn't mean that they aren't sold.  

 

Or,  I used to run the Autolite 3922  in some of my single spark 1150 bikes, but I typically ride longer distances at very high speeds. Some riders use the  Autolite 3923 but are a slightly hotter heat range than the stock 1150 spark plugs (the 3922 are a closer match to the stock spark plugs on the 1150). If your 1150 is a oil user/burner then the Autolite 3923 is probably a better choice.  

 

About the only issues that I ever seen on the Autolite 3922 or 3923 was early electrode wear (they are only a single electrode plug) & some combustion pressure leakage at the porcelain-to-base interface. 

 

12,000 miles is a good sparkplug replacement miles on the 1150 single spark motorcycle,  or to make it easy, just replace the spark  plugs every other valve adjustment. That is just a recommended mileage but it really boils down to the number of  sparks per mile traveled.  

 

Hi DR. My bike is a twin spark 2003 R1150RT. I am looking to change the plugs as well for the first time.

BMW recommends NGK BKR7EKC as primary and NGK DCPR8EKC as secondary.

Someone in another group recommended NGK Iridium 2667 and NGK 6546 which I believe are the same as resp. NGK BKR7EIX and NGK DCPR8EIX??

My question is: is this correct and is it worth paying the extra cash for the Iridium version of this plug (whatever that may be)? 

Are they all dual electrode plugs?

 

thanks for any advice

 

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32 minutes ago, Kilrush R1150RT said:

Hi DR. My bike is a twin spark 2003 R1150RT. I am looking to change the plugs as well for the first time.

BMW recommends NGK BKR7EKC as primary and NGK DCPR8EKC as secondary.

Someone in another group recommended NGK Iridium 2667 and NGK 6546 which I believe are the same as resp. NGK BKR7EIX and NGK DCPR8EIX??

My question is: is this correct and is it worth paying the extra cash for the Iridium version of this plug (whatever that may be)? 

Are they all dual electrode plugs?

 

thanks for any advice

 

Evening Kilrush R1150RT

 

Both  the NGK BKR7EIX and NGK DCPR8EIX are single electrode plugs. 

 

They are not BMW specified plugs but do pretty well match up to the NGK BKR7EKC and NGK DCPR8EKC as far as fit, reach, & heat range goes. 

 

A number of BMW 1150 riders use, & have used, them so they seem to work OK. 

 

I have tried them in the past & didn't find any increase or decrease in performance but they do seem to last a long time if swapped side to side at each valve adjustment.  The BMW 1150 sparks one side "center electrode to ground electrode" & sparks the other side "ground to center electrode" so with those fine center electrodes one side tends to wear more than the other. 

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Kilrush R1150RT
9 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Evening Kilrush R1150RT

 

Both  the NGK BKR7EIX and NGK DCPR8EIX are single electrode plugs. 

 

They are not BMW specified plugs but do pretty well match up to the NGK BKR7EKC and NGK DCPR8EKC as far as fit, reach, & heat range goes. 

 

A number of BMW 1150 riders use, & have used, them so they seem to work OK. 

 

I have tried them in the past & didn't find any increase or decrease in performance but they do seem to last a long time if swapped side to side at each valve adjustment.  The BMW 1150 sparks one side "center electrode to ground electrode" & sparks the other side "ground to center electrode" so with those fine center electrodes one side tends to wear more than the other. 

Thanks DR.

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Kilrush R1150RT
13 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Evening Kilrush R1150RT

 

Both  the NGK BKR7EIX and NGK DCPR8EIX are single electrode plugs. 

 

They are not BMW specified plugs but do pretty well match up to the NGK BKR7EKC and NGK DCPR8EKC as far as fit, reach, & heat range goes. 

 

A number of BMW 1150 riders use, & have used, them so they seem to work OK. 

 

I have tried them in the past & didn't find any increase or decrease in performance but they do seem to last a long time if swapped side to side at each valve adjustment.  The BMW 1150 sparks one side "center electrode to ground electrode" & sparks the other side "ground to center electrode" so with those fine center electrodes one side tends to wear more than the other. 

Just had a go at removing a primary plug to see what is in there now and how it is looking, but it seemed to be quite tight (ie more than I would normally handtighten plugs) - it was hot as I had just run the engine. I stopped as I did not want to risk messing up a thread (I have no idea how long they have been in there and how tight they were installed) Is there a better way to do it (ie wait till cold or spray WB40 or something similar before removing?)

Sorry for all the stupid questions 

 

thanks

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25 minutes ago, Kilrush R1150RT said:

Just had a go at removing a primary plug to see what is in there now and how it is looking, but it seemed to be quite tight (ie more than I would normally handtighten plugs) - it was hot as I had just run the engine. I stopped as I did not want to risk messing up a thread (I have no idea how long they have been in there and how tight they were installed) Is there a better way to do it (ie wait till cold or spray WB40 or something similar before removing?)

Sorry for all the stupid questions 

 

thanks

Morning  Kilrush R1150RT

 

First off do not try to remove the sparks plugs in an alloy cylinder head on a hot engine. Lightly warm OK but hot is risking ruining the threads.

 

Some of those spark plugs can get pretty tight when they have been it there for a while. It's kind of a grit-your-teeth then use as much removal force as you feel necessary but not more force than you "know from experience" will snap the spark plug off at the thread to body. (it's basically an experienced feel, sometimes learned the hard way).

 

Sprays like penetrating oil typically does no good, if the penetrating oil is effective enough to pernitrate the sparkplug gasket seal & get to the threads then how does it stay  in the can without penetrating the can seams???   

 

Now, once you initially  break the plug loose but it still feels tight to remove THEN possibly a shot of penetrating oil will help as it can THEN get into the thread & gasket area. 

 

I usually put a very/very small dab of anti-seize on the new plug threads when installing as that makes removal next time much easier. 

 

I also put a little silicone spark plug boot grease on the inside of the rubber part of the coil boots & inside lower plug wire boots  as that seals the moisture out & makes coil, or plug wire,  removal next time much easier.

 

 

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Kilrush R1150RT
13 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

Morning  Kilrush R1150RT

 

First off do not try to remove the sparks plugs in an alloy cylinder head on a hot engine. Lightly warm OK but hot is risking ruining the threads.

 

Some of those spark plugs can get pretty tight when they have been it there for a while. It's kind of a grit-your-teeth then use as much removal force as you feel necessary but not more force than you "know from experience" will snap the spark plug off at the thread to body. (it's basically an experienced feel, sometimes learned the hard way).

 

Sprays like penetrating oil typically does no good, if the penetrating oil is effective enough to pernitrate the sparkplug gasket seal & get to the threads then how does it stay  in the can without penetrating the can seams???   

 

Now, once you initially  break the plug loose but it still feels tight to remove THEN possibly a shot of penetrating oil will help as it can THEN get into the thread & gasket area. 

 

I usually put a very/very small dab of anti-seize on the new plug threads when installing as that makes removal next time much easier. 

 

I also put a little silicone spark plug boot grease on the inside of the rubber part of the coil boots & inside lower plug wire boots  as that seals the moisture out & makes coil, or plug wire,  removal next time much easier.

 

 

Going to have to grit my teeth then. Thanks for the tips. Will wait a few days I think to build up the courage - especially as I have got the bike going again and the weather is lovely here.......

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